• Rising Stem Solid Wedge Gate Valve F4 System 1
  • Rising Stem Solid Wedge Gate Valve F4 System 2
  • Rising Stem Solid Wedge Gate Valve F4 System 3
Rising Stem Solid Wedge Gate Valve F4

Rising Stem Solid Wedge Gate Valve F4

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Type:

Non-Rising Stem

Material:

Body:  Cast Iron / Ductile Iron

Wedge:  Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Encapsulated with EPDM

Seat: EPDM / NBR

Shaft: SS410

Stem Nut: Brass

O-ring: EPDM, NBR

Wedge Nut: Brass / Bronze

Hand Wheel: Ductile Iron

Operator:

Hand Wheel / Bevel Gearing / Square head / Electric actuator

Face to Face:

BS5163: 1986, DIN 3202 F4-F5, JIS B2002, ANSI B16.10

Flange:

BS4504, DIN 2532, JIS B2212, ANSI B16.10/ANSI B16.50

Working Pressure:

16 Bar(200 PSI)

Design  and Manufacturer Standard

:

BS5163, DIN 3352, JIS B2043

Test Standard:

API 598  BS6755 DIN 3230  JIS B2003

Application:

Water works, Sewage, Public facilties, Building industry, Petroleum, Chemical, Steel, Metallurgy, Paper Making Industry, Foods, Beverage, HVAC










Q: Anyone know how to stop this from happening? I have gone through 4 since March.
are you sure its the egr valves going bad or not the egr solenoids causing you to get the code,that will make it appear that an egr has gone bad when it really hasn't,good luck.
Q: We have an oil steam system. There are Dole valves - 1A on each of the radiators. We bought new ones. They don't seem to be working. They look like a bullet shape with a screw in (on the side of the bullet) to the radiator. On the top of the bullet is a slit with numbers 1-10 on a dial. A picture we saw on the web showed a plastic piece of tubing in the screw part which looks like it goes into the radiator. If we remove the valve, the radiator gets hot with steam coming out of the hole. With the new valve on, the radiator barely gets warm. We're in Piscataway, NJ 08854. H-E-L-P.
First off these are vents , the valves are at the bottom of the radiator where the pipes come in. Sounds like the vents are either closed or broken. Try turning the adjustment screw if that doesn't work I recomend replacing the with vent from a company called ventrite the valve you are looking for is a vent rite #1. These are adjustable vents used to balance the heat throughout your unit the dial at the bottom is labeled 1-8 start with all of them on 8. Now when the radiators heat up if you find some are getting hotter faster turn those down a notch and check again in a day or so.
Q: 1998 Ford Crown Victoria LX 4.6L Use 89 Octane BP, Shell, Chevron gas. When the engine is under stress(acceleration or going up incline) the engine sounds like the valves are chattering. I can increase the rpm's and the chattering goes away. Had the same problem with 95 Thunderbird 4.6 and have heard other ford cars going down the road with this problem. Air leak? Don't really want to use higher octane due to gas prices and possible engine damage. Also, in the thunderbird, i used a bottle of octane boost and the next day a valve spring broke. Was the octane boost a possible cause?
it is not valve chatter, it is called Pinging, it is a fairly common problem, what it is caused by is hot spots in the engine, or by overly advanced spark timing, i would check your base timing, perhaps even back it off a degree or two, i would also run a bottle of marvel mystery oil, or gm top engine cleaner through a vacuum line to burn out the crud that has built up, the sum total of these repairs: about 15 bucks, the savings: your engine! as for your t-bird, it was the pinging that broke the valve spring, not the tank of hi octane. hope this helps
Q: i just replaced the head gaskets on my 1991 Acura Legend and When i put the timing belt on somehow it slipped and came loose I than tried to start it(not knowing it came loose) and it cranked hard and strong but no start. I just retimed the engine and put new timing belt set on it and when i started it the car blows grayish blackish smoke from the exhaust and has a really crazy idle. Could the valves be bent
Misfiring at low engine speeds. Usually, this would happen if you have had a leaking exhaust manifold gasket for a while which would actually cause the valve to get burned from high temperature. An actual BENT VALVE is easily spotted if you remove the valve cover to the suspect area and relieve the stress on the valve stem when the engine is at TDC on this cylinder. If there is too much play , or lash, between the cam and the valve stem, then the valve is not closing and is therefore, BENT!!
Q: Last year an echo revealed severe aortic valve regurgitation with low ef of 37 but ecg was normal. i am 36 yrs old. I have noticed that i often have chest pain when i lie on my left (especially after a heavy drinking or if my bp is high) but the pain subsides when i lie on my right or back. Is it possible that my aortic valve only leaks when i lie on my left side, if so, can I continue living a normal life without needing valve replacement surgery if avoid lieing on my left side. or i'm i fooling myself, is the heart damage progressing silently?
Hello, You don't tell us *why* your doctors think, you developed this problem with your aortic valve in the first place? Has there been any infection of the valve with germs, (bacterial endocarditis)? Did you have Rheumatic Fever as a child? Were you born, with stenosis or regurgitation of your aortic valve? Do you have abnormally early, clogging-up of your artery-linings with cholesterol?
Q: i have a '96 buick skylark and my check engine light is on...i got it checked and the test said it was my EGR valve. does anyone know how to explain in lamens terms how to replace my EGR valve??????
The EGR Valve Location is typically housed on the intake manifold (the very top of the engine)( I think it is on the drivers side next to the throttle body) It's purpose is to recirculate a portion of the exhaust gas back into the intake manifold so it has to be connected to the intake manifold. It is a round diaphram, will typically have a Vacuum hose connected to it, and typically held on by two bolts. You should also use plenty of light and inspect the vacuum lines connected to it, they tend to crack and loose vacuum which would throw a code. Hope this helps.
Q: I have a D16Z6 SOHC VTEC engine in my 93 Honda Del Sol.Ive been told that the D16Z6 came with 2 different valve covers. One style cover says Honda on the top and another also says VTEC.I have the one that just says honda but I want the other put on.What would I need to swap them, and where would I get them?and a roundabout price
maybe you can get the cover at your local junk yard. Check and ask around. Since Hondas are so abundant, someone is bound to have it. If not, you can always go to the Honda Dealer. They'll order it in for you the next day. It might be more expensive but it'll be new and they'll be sure to have it. You might also want to check the fit to make sure they're compatable. :)
Q: how to get adjust the valves on a craftsman mower with a briggs and stratton with ohv 18hp? Iv'e heard you adjust them around 5 thousands with a feeler gauge. But im confused about what position to adjust them. Iv'e heard you wait till one of the valves is closed while the other is open and adjust that one. Then repeat till you got them adjusted. Whats the proper way?
when a valve is closed there should be a gap under the valve stem and push rod that's the adjustment, when a Valve is open the push rod is against the valve end so you cant adjust it while its open i would set them at 10,thousands to allow for heat expansion
Q: To control a double solenoid valve, what do you recommend to use in my PLC program .... Do you recommend to use the SetReset coils or to use the normal coils?
You may want to check with the company that manufactured the valve - that would be your most likely source.
Q: hi ihave a 2001 1.4 civic (6th gen) has anyone got any info/reviews on the following mods: powerboost valve, denso/splitfire spark plugs(which one would be better) and splitfire ignition leads.
While I'm not familiar with the power boost valve specifically, it looks similar to a rising rate fuel regulator which is used more for forced induction applications like turbocharging and supercharging. If you were to install this on a relatively stock car you would risk running an extremely rich mixture that the stock ecu would be unable to compensate for which in turn could cause damage to your engine. The stock fuel regulator that currently sits in your car is more then sufficient enough to keep up with simple bolt on parts and shouldn't need replacement unless you are planning on doing true engine work or forced induction. As far as comparing different companies' spark plugs and wires it would really be a matter of splitting hairs.

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