Rising Stem Solid Wedge Gate Valve F4 System 1

Rising Stem Solid Wedge Gate Valve F4

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Type:	Non-Rising Stem
Material:	Body: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Wedge: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Encapsulated with EPDM Seat: EPDM / NBR Shaft: SS410 Stem Nut: Brass O-ring: EPDM, NBR Wedge Nut: Brass / Bronze Hand Wheel: Ductile Iron
Operator:	Hand Wheel / Bevel Gearing / Square head / Electric actuator
Face to Face:	BS5163: 1986, DIN 3202 F4-F5, JIS B2002, ANSI B16.10
Flange:	BS4504, DIN 2532, JIS B2212, ANSI B16.10/ANSI B16.50
Working Pressure:	16 Bar(200 PSI)
Design and Manufacturer Standard :	BS5163, DIN 3352, JIS B2043
Test Standard:	API 598 BS6755 DIN 3230 JIS B2003
Application:	Water works, Sewage, Public facilties, Building industry, Petroleum, Chemical, Steel, Metallurgy, Paper Making Industry, Foods, Beverage, HVAC

Q: how could you make a valve or a system so that when it is pressurized, if enough pressure is reached in the system the valve will open completely and remain opened until it is close manually?I'm thinking about this in the context of an air powered dart gun, so that the firing mechanism is like a piston, and when a certain air pressure is reached, the valve that connects to the barrel will open and fire the dart: One thing you can do is get a pressure switch and a solenoid valve so that when whatever you are pressurizing comes to a certain level the switch will close it's normally open contacts and energize the solenoid which will open the valve. However as soon as the pressure level goes below the trigger level the valve will automatically close.

Q: I want to know if a person with multiple leaking heart valves left untreated, is in any more danger than someone with a single leaking heart valve.: hard problem. seek in search engines like google. it will help!

Q: Im trying to replace the egr valve on a 97 lincoln continental. I need to find out what size wrench I need, to get the nut off. Do you know?: I am assuming you want to replace the EGR valve because you are getting an insufficient EGR flow trouble code. Before you replace a perfectly good valve with an inferior aftermarket part that will likely fix nothing, a little more diagnosis is in order. If you have access to a scan tool and a vacuum gauge, perform a KOER (key on engine running) test on the engine with the vacuum gauge connected to the hose to the EGR valve. When self-test reaches the EGR test, look for the vacuum guage to move during the self test. If it moves, the vacuum source and EGR solenoid are good. If not, trace the vacuum harness for leaks. Without the scanner and vacuum gauge, find a length of hose and suck on the hose, or connect to other vacuum source to test the valve. You are looking for an RPM drop at idle when you open the valve in this way. I suspect your problem is a passageway clogged with carbon. Remove the valve and throttle body to access the clogged areas and manually decarbonize. This is the most common reason for an insufficient EGR flow on a Lincoln, along with a faulty DPFE sensor or related hoses. My money is on the clogged passages or the bad DPFE sensor.

Q: i am wanting to know if there is a diagram of the engine or at least if you have to remove the intake manifold to get to the egr valve.: there was an extended warranty on the EGR valve to 8 years or 80,000 miles from new for problems related to insufficient lift of the valve because the port that the exhaust gas flows through gets plugged with carbon. if your car is within the 8/80 take teh car to a honda dealer for a free replacement of the valve and tube if you need to do it yourself or have someone else do it I can scan a bulletin if you want the details of how to do it. if you want that, send me an email by clicking on the icon above my name to the left of this answer and select email be sure to include your real email address that I can send an attached file to because Yahoo Answers doesn't allow attachments. Doing it this way keeps your email address and mine out of the searchable Yahoo Answers database hope that helps

Q: Water has been seeping out of the sprinklers closest to the anti-siphon valve. Water seeps out of the sprinkler even when the anti-siphon valve is manually closed and not connected electronically. I opened up the anti-siphon valve to inspect the diaphragm, but there is no debris nor it was damaged. To be sure, I switched the diaphragm chamber of the two anti-siphon valves (a suspected leaky one and another good working one), but leak persists from the same sprinklers. I think the leak is from the (float?) rubber seal at the bottom of the stem closing the inlet valve. My anti-siphon is a Hardie (or Irritrol) model 311A series.1) Is my troubleshooting and logic correct? What other components could have contributed to the leak described? 2) At what scenario will water be flowing out of the anti-siphon cap?3) How can I determine if my anti-siphon valve has a vacuum breaker? What is a vacuum breaker good for?4)Which brand makes the most reliable anti-siphon valve?: If the antisyphon valve is not leaking maybe you should focus attention on the main valve ( assuming it is a solenoid valve) to see if it closes completely. Another thing, if the irrigation zone is on an incline then the water in the system will drain to the lowest point. Sometimes it drains slowly causing the impression of a leaky feed valve.

Q: I have a 4 diameter column of water 10' tall (filled with water). I need to find a flush valve unit to fit into the bottom of it so that it will flush all of the water out of the column in 1 flush. Essentially this will act as a large toilet but it is for a design project at school. My concerns are that the flapper will close before the water is completely flushed out of the column. Is there any way I can make the flapper stay open thus flushing all the water in column out without holding the chain connecting the float to the flapper valve?: Flapper valves are all about weight and pivot points and center of gravity. The air bubble inside the plug acts like a ping pong ball initially, holding the flapper open. When the water gets down to the level of the flapper, it tends to close too soon as you point out. But you can attach a smal plastic cup to the back of the flapper that fills with water and holds the flapper open when the water level is very low. You put a small hole in the bottom of the cup so that the water in the cup slowly drains out and finally the cg shifts and the flapper closes.

Q: How would this affect the functioning of the heart valves?How would this be detected in a routine examination?: If the heart valves are damaged, they may leak, causing regurgitation of blood. For example, if the mitral valve (between the left atrium and left ventricle) leaks, blood will leak back into the left atrium when the ventricle contracts. This reduces the efficiency of the heart contraction. Regurgitation is easily detected by echocardiography. On routine physical exam it may be detected *if* there is enough leakage/ flow abnormality to cause an audible sound, or murmur, that your physician can hear with his/her stethoscope.

Q: We have a main gas valve outside and there's a gas valve by out air condition and we want to know which way if off and on .. Does anybody know !!!: If it is at a right angle to the gas line, and will travel no farther it is off. In other words, if you can turn it halfway, and it stops, it's off. (that's the way mine is, but don't take my word for it.)

Q: So I bought my car about 4 months ago (1999 mustang) and the second day the check engine light came on and was the code for the EGR valve. I just reset the ECU and it went off and stayed off until now. Same code for the EGR, but this time after resetting ECU the light continues to come on. Is the EGR valve important enough to have fixed? and I have aftermarket Flomaster exhaust if that would have anything to do with the code being thrown: It used to be a cheap fix. I haven't worked on the newer vehicles, but it used to be an F-shaped plug, with vacuum hoses, that you could replace in a few minutes. Price was under $20. The biggest problem, then, was decoding the codes! I just looked it up and it seems to be pretty simple, and similar to what I worked on. A small diaphragm valve that runs about $50. Ford would probably charge you $300 for the part and another $100 or so to put it on. The EGR valve helps with exhaust and, to some degree, gas mileage. In other words, if you live in a state with strict rules about emissions, you may fail the test. In proper condition, you may notice a little better fuel mileage. Of course, when I drove a sports car, I noticed that a good waxing helped my mileage. LOL I doubt that the Flomaster would cause a problem. This is a sensor issue that is, or should be, directly related to the EGR valve itself. Of course, I haven't worked on vehicles for years, so... Google this and see what you think. Location should give you some pictures to show where it should be on your Mustang and then you can see if you think you can do it. Then, check the prices. If your state is a pain, fixing it is probably cheaper than failing the emissions test. Besides, the more work you can do yourself, the cheaper it is. The only real difference between you and the guys who work in the dealership is a degree (piece of paper) and a fancy machine. You can do the same things they do.

Q: What is the primary function of valve seals?: Valve seals are placed over the intake valve guides so oil will not be drawn into the combustion chamber on intake stroke.

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