Multistage Pipeline Fire Fighting Centrifugal Pump
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 500 unit/month
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Multistage Pipeline Fire Fighting Centrifugal Pump
Introduction of Multistage Pipeline Fire Fighting Centrifugal Pump
XBD-GDL series electric fire-fighting pump group is a vertical multi-stage single-suction cylindrical centrifugal pump made with the computerized design of optimization with the modern excellent hydraulic model and features a compact structure and a reasonable and nice modelling and the indexes of both reliability and efficiency have been greatly raised, strictly conforming with the provisions is the latest national standard GB6245-2006, Fire-figthing Pumps, or NFPA-20
Features of Multistage Pipeline Fire Fighting Centrifugal Pump
a) Excellent hydraulic model
b) Light weight
c) High efficiency, energy saving
d) Pipeline type
e) Stable performance
1.Stable running with low noise
2.Simplified installation and assembly
Use of a low-noise bearing, the design of the hy-draulic parts of the accurate hydraulic features and the water-filling shield on the periphery of each section makes the flowing noise lowered and the running extremely stable as well.
With both inlet and outlet pipes of a same diameter and on one line, the pump can be directly mounted on the pipeline just like a valve; and with a casing-type clutch used, linkage between both pump and motor becomes very simple and makes the transmission efficiency raised to some extent.
Applications of Multistage Pipeline Fire Fighting Centrifugal Pump
a) Fixed firefighting sysytems of industrial and civil buildings
b) Fire hydrant fire-fighting system
c) Automatic sprinkler fire-fighting system
d) Spraying fire-fighting system
Technical data of Multistage Pipeline Fire Fighting Centrifugal Pump
a) Flow:3.6-180m3/h
b) Pressure : 0.3-2.5MPa
c) Medium temperature: -15 ~ 120oC
d) Operation pressure: ≤ 3 MPa
e) Diameter: 25 - 150mm
FAQ
Q: Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?
A: Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.
Q: Where do I have to send pumps for service?
A: You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.
Q: Are your pumps acid-proofed?
A: To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.
Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors
A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.
Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?
A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.
Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?
A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.
- Q: I have a 2000 Chevy Malibu with 123xxx miles on it. I notice coolant being leaked on the floor heavily and my car gets hot driving. It leaks when the car is on and stops when it is off. Could it be a water pump? What r the signs of a bad water pump?
- the water pump leaks
- Q: I just posted another question a few minutes ago, but not really much help with the one answer I got. I'm now sure that what part I'm feeling on the back of the engine block is the water pump on my 97 Grand Am 2.4L twin cam POS car. I somehow got my hand back there enough to take pictures to see what I'm feeling. Noticed in one of them that there is a bolt missing! This area was very wet with coolant. Would this bolt missing cause the pump/cover to leak? Makes sense to me. If all the bolts aren't there, then there wouldn't be proper seal, right? Had this engine put in a few months ago. The guy who did it seemed to miss a lot of things.
- Yes, a missing, or broken bolt on the water pump can cause a leak. Either way, if you are showing coolant from the bolt hole, or around the gasket area, it is most likely due to the seal not being tight with the missing, or broken bolt. You must check to see if possibly the bolt has broken off, and not merely been left, or worked out. Most times when a bolt appears to be missing, it is broken, and part still remains in the threaded part. If this is the case the water pump must be completely removed to get the broken bolt out, and then install a new gasket, and all the proper bolts. Tighten them to the proper specifications. It doesn't hurt to use a gasket sealer when you install the new gasket. It's messy, but I find the best to be Form-a-Gasket #2. This is a non-hardening gasket sealer, and very sticky. It is actually much better to use than silicone, but not easier. To check to see if you have a broken bolt just stick a pin, or toothpick into the hole to see if it will go deep into the threaded portion of the mount. In your pictures it appears that there is nothing behind the mount lug, so a pin, or toothpick should go completely through the hole. If the bolt is broken off with the threaded portion still in the mount you will feel it with what you use to probe the hole.
- Q: I Have a 1982 Suzuki DT8 Outboard motor, i rebuilt the water pup, new impeller, wear plate, all that. This is the first time iv run it in a barrel, it wont pump water now. But here is the thing, when i take the inspection cover off(the little round cover that lets you acces the shift linkage), and i run the motor, it will pump water. i noticed that wile i have that cover off all the exhaust comes out that hole and not out the bottom, is the exhaust getting sucked in the pump and stopping it from circulating water?
- Suzuki Dt8 Outboard
- Q: I live in a condo building -- 3 floors, 7 units. In our storage units (right below my unit) is a water pump that was hooked up with the intent of helping the water flow to the 3rd floor. Everytime the pump goes off, it rattles, then makes a loud noise when it kicks off. The developers created a drywall box that houses the pump, which is surrounded by isolation, but it doesn't seem like it helps the noise. The pump also rattles the pipes that connect directly to the pump.My question is -- is this rattling normal for a standard water pump? If so, is there anything I can do to help cut down on the noise? If this is rattling is not normal of the standard water pump, what would it cost to replace it with something decent?
- I do not know the kind of pump you are referring to. I will give my personal expertise. If it is a pump taking water from a tank, the piping might be loose, the knocking may be corrected with some air ventilation pipe. If it is pumping from a water tank: I suggest you look at a submersible pump capable of supplying water to 3rd floor. This kind of pump is less noisy. The noise at start, is the electric starter, and the noise at the end is when water returns and seals the stop valve. Also some air may be in the pipe, you need to purge the pump, as often as needed, try this first, and then the others. Good luck
- Q: can you give me some information?
- Water pumps come in all sizes from less than one gallon per hour to over 50,000 gallons per minute. They also produce pressures on the discharge from a few inches of water to thousands of pounds per square inch. They pump water with all kinds of contaminates and chemicals dissolved in the water. Finally they can have all kinds of service conditions from a few minutes at a time once a day to continuous operation. All of these factors enter into what you need to have a good quality pump.
- Q: I have a 2001 chevy malibu and need to know how to check if the water pump needs replaced. The engine has been running much hotter than normal and is leaking coolant.
- Normally if the water pump is bad it will be leaking fluid from a little weep hole right under the pulley bearings. If you have fluid coming from there then yes it needs to be replaced.
- Q: So, my husband and I bought a 1993 Chevrolet Corsica a couple of months ago. This weekend we took a trip that ended up being about 400 miles round trip. About 300 miles into our trip, the Check Engine light came on, but there was no noticable problem with the car, no overheating, no clanking or odd smells, the light went off about 2 minutes later. So we got it home, no problems whatsoever. My husband drove it to work this morning, and we were preparing to go to the store tonight in it, and we noticed a massive amount of radiator fluid under the car and the overflow bottle was empty. The leaking appears to be coming from the engine, and the antifreeze is running down one of the upper belts. Could this be a water pump problem? If so, what is the average cost to repair one (I know water pumps are relatively inexpensive, but we'll need to take it in to a shop). Does anyone have any idea? All replies will be greatly appreciated.
- we've a Jetta and the water pump went at 30,000 miles. Its meant to final plenty longer till the timing belt desires to get replaced. the reason they use plastic for the impeller is so if it fails it would not injury the timing belt. while the pump fails you may notcontinual the motor vehicle for any distance, the engine overheats, the warning lighting fixtures come on and thats it. in case you endured tocontinual you would be able to desire to doubtlessly grab the engine or a minimum of blow the top gasket and deform the top, those engines are all aluminum and can't stand to be overheated.
- Q: how often do i need to change a timing belt and water pump on my car? also, how much should it cost? should i have it done at the dealers or at a small mechanic shop if i chose to? which would be best? what are steps when having timing belt change?
- check the ads in a free paper like the LA weekly or SF guardian. they always seem to say when you should do it and what they charge. the water pump shouldnt be much extra (100?)since they are already doing the timing belt. call a mechanic you trust and ask them. If you do not have one then ask your friends who is good. the dealer will rip you off on price, it can easily cost double there would you rater pay someone inexperienced at the dealer $100 per hour or someone who has done it for 40 years $60 per hour and he does it faster anyways (so it costs less)(and they take pride in their work)(and they will replace other parts that need it for cheap and leave pieces that are still good because they know) The dealer might charge you for 6 hours because the book says that even if they only spend 4 doing it! a VERY rough guess would be 600+100 for water pump you do not need to replace timing belt very often. I am thinking 60,000 miles. look up in owners manual or shop manual for your car for replacement interval. good luck
- Q: honda acord water pump 1988
- hello Purchase a how to book, because part of the water pump sits behind the timing belt cover.Hope this was some help.
- Q: How important is a torque wrench,if so what is the proper fp torque for pump/pulley ?
- dont need to tighten until good and snug torque is critical on head bolts and bearing cap and rod cap bolts etc
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Multistage Pipeline Fire Fighting Centrifugal Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 500 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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