• Liquid Ring Vacuum Pump 2BEA Series Low Noise System 1
  • Liquid Ring Vacuum Pump 2BEA Series Low Noise System 2
  • Liquid Ring Vacuum Pump 2BEA Series Low Noise System 3
Liquid Ring Vacuum Pump 2BEA Series Low Noise

Liquid Ring Vacuum Pump 2BEA Series Low Noise

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
300 unit/month

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Performance of 2BEA Series Liquid Ring Vacuum Pump

Flow Range:4.9-352m3/min

Head Range:-0.093mpa

Power Range:11-560KW

Temperature:-10ºC-40ºC

Material:Cast Iron,Stainless Steel

Product Overview of 2BEA Series Liquid Ring Vacuum Pump
2BEA series water ring vacuum pumps and compressors is a kind of high-efficiency and enger-saving product developed on the basis of years of production experience and scientific research, combined with international advanced technology, typically used for pumping gas without solid particles, insoluble in water, and non-corrosive, so as to form a vacuum or pressure in a sealed container. By changing the materials, it can be used for pumping corrosive gases or corrosive liquids. It is widely used in papermaking, chemical, petrochemical, light industry, pharmaceuticals, food, coal, mineral processing, and other industries. 

Features of 2BEA Series Liquid Ring Vacuum Pump
1. Use imported bearings to ensure accurate location and stable operation of the impeller . 
2. Impeller material use cast iron or welded steel, and fully guarantee the impeller stability in a variety of adverse conditions, and greatly increased the pump life. 
3. Pump body uses steel, increase the service life of vacuum pump. 
4. As the most easily damaged parts, the shaft sleeve uses high-chromium stainless steel, life expectancy has increased by 5 times. 
5. Pulley (belt drive) is standard high-precision, reliable operation and long service life and convenient disassemble. 
6. Coupling (direct Transmission) uses standard high-strength flexible coupling, flexible component uses polyurethane material, which is stable and reliable operation, long service life. 
7. 'Unique top-mounted gas-water separator to save space and reduce the noise. 
8. All casting uses resin sand casting, which is good surface quality, pump cooling well. 
9. Mechanical seal (optional) is imported, fully guaranteed no leakage in the long-running process. 
10. Casing inner wall is similar to the type of oval, ensure the best exhaust results. 

Q: What I am trying to explain is that I took my vehicle to be serviced for a water pump. They installed it, but when I got my vehicle back, it started making this clicking noise. I took it back to be diagnosed and they came back to me saying that I need a new engine? (Before I took in my vehicle there was no clicking sound or problems, just the water pump.)Could this be the dealer trying to pull something for their mistake or what?
a stuck open thermostat will cause the engine to run colder, this will trick the computer into thinking the engine still needs to warm up and the fuel mixture will stay very rich. that could explain the fuel mileage issues. I don't think the bolt is a problem. The hose at the top should be hotter than the bottom hose, that means your radiator is doing its job, cooling the engine's coolant before it goes back into the engine.
Q: Our CRN series pumps used in the 414V 480V 60Hz 60Hz power supply, what would be the effect? Is not the head can be reduced, there is no water pump and lift what voltage relationship?
This is the world's Grundfos pump, if the pump itself support work under the 414V if it didn't need to worry about traffic and Yang Cheng, if the pump does not support the long time operation of the pump must lift and flow impact, and the multi-stage pump if it is Gao Yangcheng in the use of low lift it is also easy to burn the motor,
Q: belt removal mercury cruiser water pump?
The pump bracket pivots that allows the belt to be removed. I've seen a few where the alternator belt is over the top of the water pump belt, so you have to remove it first. Actually a pretty easy job.
Q: I own a Camaro 1995 V6 3.4L automatic, it was diagnosed that the water pump was leaking and I was going to take it in on Saturday 3/1/08. But this morning I drove it and it seem that the car is losing power the RPM goes all up to 4-5 thousand to make a speed change. The car seems to stall like if it gets stuck the RPM goes up and eventually the next speed kicks in. I will be taking the car in tomorrow 2/27/08 to see whats wrong but I was hoping maybe someone knows whats wrong so that I can have an idea before someone tries to take advantage of me. I do know that the car started leaking water/coolant more than before after that little drive in the morning.The car is very well kept oil change is always on time .I always make sure that the water and the oil is level. transmission fluids are clean. I do know that the EGR Valve needs to be replaced. (hope this info helps)thank you
You may have got it hot and blown a head gasket. That would take away the power as it got hotter.
Q: My 93 Ford t-bird over heats and i really don't know what could be the problem, the radiator is working fine, and also the fan and the thermostat, i don't think is a head gasket because the oil looks alright with no contamination and there is no steam coming from the exhaust im beginning to suspect the water pump but the weep hole is not leaking. So does a water pump MUST leak from the weep hole if it is bad, or it could be bad and not leak? thanks in advance...
My husband says: If it has a clutch fan, the clutch could be bad; the impleller in the water pump could be bad or broke and to check and make sure your belt is not slipping. Hope this gives you some ideas!
Q: I was vacuuming up water from my basement I assumed was from the rain, suddenly water started spraying out of a blue pump at the base of my furnace, don't know what the pump does or why its spraying but its making an awful mess.
Furnace Water Pump
Q: First I need to take off the belt, remove power steering pump, remove water pump bolts (the bolts are various length), remove water pump pulley (from old pump), install pulley on new pump, install new pump (with gasket and bolts in the right holes), install power steering pump, install belt. Is this the correct order? Can somebody throw any tips at me (somebody who has done it on this vehicle). It's a 2001 WJ with a 4L.
Water Pump from okorder!
Q: I would like to change the water pump myself but do not have a repair manual.
For the best answers, search on this site https://shorturl.im/avT4K More than you can afford. It's got dual overhead camshafts and the water pump is in with the timing if I'm not mistaking. Because of this, you have to disassemble the entire front part of the engine. You also have to bring it to top dead center, mark the camshafts, remove the timing belt, and a whole lot of other stuff that you just don't want to mess with.
Q: My car overheats in hot temperatures I have try everything except replacing the water pump and radiator how can I tell when its time to change each one and is it a do-it-yourself job
Water pumps are very simple. They only fail if 1) They spring a leak, 2) Their bearing freezes up, or 3) Their drive belt breaks or slips. I'd suspect the thermostat first, a clogged radiator second, or a bad electric fan or relay. They are easy to replace on most pre-1960's cars, and a complete hassle on many newer models. Good luck with the project.
Q: I'm looking to buy a used 2001 Protege. The car is nearing 75000mi, but the owner has not changed the timing belt or the water pump. I found out that it is recommended to change the timing belt at 60000mi, but couldn't find anything on the water pump. Realistically, when would I need to replace these, and any idea how much it would cost?Thanks!
That could have either the 1.6 liter or 2.0 liter engine. My information shows that if you have the 1.6 liter, at least you don't have to worry about bending valves against pistons if the belt breaks -- you'll just be stuck out on the road until you can get it towed and fixed. Not so with the 2.0 which is an interference engine. So if you DO have the 2.0, pay attention -- you don't want an expensive breakdown! You're on borrowed time at 75K. For both engines, Mazda recommends that you replace the timing belt every 60K miles. Gates (a major replacement supplier) seems to think these belts will go 105K. Since it's a factory belt, stick with 60K. As for the water pump, it's often one of those while you're already in there sort of things when you're doing a timing belt. 60K makes it a tougher call, especially with the better quality of water pump bearings and seals. If your interval were 80K ~ 100K as is true on some cars, I'd say go for it without blinking. As cheap as it'll be (it's really just the price of the pump), and it was my set of wheels, I'd do it anyway, even at 60K, if it needed to be pulled to do the belt.

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