Horizontal Pulley Pump for Water Solution

Horizontal Pulley Pump for Water Solution

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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Specifications

pulley pump for water solution

Our organization posses immense knowledge and experience of this industry, which aids us in manufacturing and supplying a comprehensive range of V-Belt Driven Centrifugal Pump. Offered v-belt driven centrifugal pumps are manufactured by our experts employing highly advanced machines and tools. We are offering these v-belt driven centrifugal pumps at different types of models.

General Specification:

Pump having rigid construction
Impeller is closed type and single end suction
Impeller is manufactured using special grey cast iron material
Impeller is dynamically balanced
Casing is having well design volute way
Casing is made up of close grain & high quality cast iron
Quality steel material is used for shaft
Dimensional accuracy is controlled in a manner that without vibration shaft transmit maximum power
Supporting frame is rigidly constructed
This frame ensures smooth functioning of shaft and ball bearings
Frame provide easy access to stuffing box and gland packing

Product Technical Specification:

Model	PISD-3
Type	Side Delivery Belt Driven, Single (V or Flat) Pulley Type
Size (mm)	100 X 100 mm
Size (inch)	4" x 4"
Speed	1450 rpm
Head Range	14 to 21 metres (46 to 69 feet)
Head	15 M	Discharge	38 LPS
Required Prime mover KW/HP	7.35/10

Q: what is NPSH for the water pump. Can you anyone explain in details? How can it calculate?: NPSH stands for Net Positive Suction Head. It usually refers to the amount of pressure needed at the inlet of the pump for the pump to work properly. If there is insufficient pressure pushing the fluid into the pump, and the pressure at the inlet is lower than the NPSH requirement, then the pressure will be so low in the sucking center of the pump that the fluid will boil (this is called cavitation). It usually makes a racket, reduces pump performance, and erodes away the pump. To make sure this doesn't happen you have to have enough head (as in some level in the tank feeding the pump) and low pressure drop on the way to the pump (meaning big enough lines, no obstructions, and not too many bends). Some pumps are designed for very low npsh requirements. These pumps can suck water from some depth without cavitating. No pump can suck room temperature water from fore than about 25 feet below the pump, because the vacuum needed to lift the water 25 feet or so is close to the vacuum needed to boil water at room temperature. You cannot easily calculate the npsh a pump needs. This is a function of the design and geometry of the pump. You can calculate the delivered npsh by figuring the pressure of the liquid in the feed tank (don't forget atmospheric pressure) and subtracting the pressure loss due to friction in the piping between feed tank and pump. This loss will be a function of flow rate. Faster flow, more frictional pressure loss.

Q: I got a water pump replaced a few month back, ( i own a 95 Honda civic) i have a wierd muffled rattle coming from that part of my car, i was told by a mechanic that it sounds like a bearing is dried out, he says that it wont affect the water pump itself but the ratlle will remain ... is this true . . .: A 'dried' bearing is sure to fail. Bearings without lubricant don't last long. I'm having trouble with my new waterpump. Bought it from AutoZone and it's already squeeling after 6 months. My water pump has a tensioner pulley built on to it. That's where my noise is coming from.

Q: I'm just wondering where I should buy my new water pump for my 2.2 cavalier? Auto zone, carquest, checker? Does it matter which one?Thanks: out of all the auto parts stores i use autozone is the cheapest but 45 miles away so i mainly use napa.

Q: We are leasing land from a friend to put horses on. We're in the process of building a barn. We don't want to run water out there because its too much trouble for the meter and everything, but someone said to get a water pump and pump the water from the pond and filter it and use it. I have no idea what all we need or what kind of pump to get. Helpp!: flow to sears and get a shallow nicely pump that has a foot valve and runs on 115vac consistent with probability a a million.5 hp ..if the top(the uphill area plus the pipe loss ) gets to sizeable you're able to desire a lager hp yet a a million.5 with a 25 ft of head could supply 9gpm at 40 psi . Oh confident is that's a closed gadget be certain an get a intense stress shrink off change..they're real decrease priced... from the E..

Q: Power went out of my house and we just had it restored, though now the water is no longer running. We called the people who installed our pump and they told us they would need to dig up the well which is going to cost $1500. However i remember a time before where this happened and all we needed to was reset the switch. Do you think these ppl are trying to get me for my money? Does anyone know if there is a less expensive way?: the first thing to do is make sure your switch contacts are closed...if they are not and the switch has a handle on the side of it, lift up the handle until the contacts close....once the pump starts working and builds up 20 or 30 pounds pressure it will start working the way it is suppose to ...you would only need to dig up the well and pull the pump as a last resort...and since the pump was working before the power went out..Most likely all you need to do is figure out how to start it...if it is a jet pump (above ground pump) then all you might need to do is prime it to get it started again.....so your pump is a jet pump ?? how much water did they use to try to prime it with??it takes one gallon for every ten feet of pipe in the well.....if your pump is in the well it does not have to be primed...

Q: What is the easiest way to remove a water pump?: drain radiator. remove both 21mm motor mount bolts from subframe (front and rear). drain radiator. remove overflow/washer bottle. remove drive belt. remove 8mm bolt that hold lower watertube to front cover. remove lower water tube from water pump. remove heater hoses from water pump. slightly lift engine with floor jack. remove water pump pully. remove water pump. if you still cant get it you will need to remove the 4 studs that go through the water pump. now its just that easy to do

Q: The water pump gasket in my '98 Forester (130k) recently began to leak, and I will be replacing it in the next couple days. I noticed a stream of bubbles in my overflow container, though, and am wondering if it might be bad head gaskets making the air bubbles. The bubbles only appear after the engine is warmed up, like after a drive around town - there aren't any bubbles when the engine is cold.Is it possible that these air bubbles are coming from the leaking water pump? I hope so, because I'd much rather replace the pump than the head gaskets!: You have a blown head gasket

Q: My Ram is leaking collant bad but it doesnt seem to be coming from the water pump it seems like it is coming from directly below the water pump. What part is this and is it even possible for this part to be leaking coolant?: pump bad or a hose above pump leaking 90% of time pump bad get a flashlight to see more or get a better look have it put on a lift at a shop but most likey water pump gone

Q: Bought a new water pump for my turtle tank can't get it to work: Pump has to be off Open the reservoir on the pump You have to use water already in your setup, fill a cup with it Fill the pump reservoir until full, then refill the cup, you'll need plenty of water you might need help here from someone at home, you also might need to hold pump, or the water might drain out as you work below Turn on the pump, while the pump is running,..... pour more water in reservoir until pump is pumping water. Have to close reservoir, then put pump where it belongs. In Pets Forum here, there's a sub-forum for reptiles, theres all kinds of help there for other turtle stuff. Good luck

Q: the water pump from the factory has an extra hole coming out the side its the smaller one on the end of this pic.: I would be a little hesitant on using an automotive water pump on a boat. The may seem similar however there are several key differences in the way they are made. excerpt from the below URL: In regard to the cooling systems, one of the major differences is found in the water-circulating pump. This is especially noticeable when you have a raw water cooled engine. Unlike their automotive counterpart, a marine pump works in an open cooling system. This type of system is extremely corrosive to the pump. Therefore, the pump must be altered for longevity. A marine pump has a special ceramic seal, stainless steel backing plate, and a bronze impeller to resist corrosion. An automotive style pump, with its stamped steel impeller, would fail due to corrosion in a short time. I have done this before, I boat in fresh water and my boat was raw water cooled, the pump was leaking after 2 seasons, wasn't worth the savings. The extra hole may have been for an optional closed loop cooling system on the boat or like was stated a heater or bypass line in a car.

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