• High-performace pipeline ball valve 1500 Class System 1
  • High-performace pipeline ball valve 1500 Class System 2
  • High-performace pipeline ball valve 1500 Class System 3
High-performace pipeline ball valve 1500 Class

High-performace pipeline ball valve 1500 Class

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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Products Description of pipeline ball valve

Body of high-performance pipeline ball valve is forged structure.The connection type for body and vice-body can be BB(bolted connection)and WB(welded connection).The WB(welded connection)and the LWB(Fully-welded extended stem)structure isadopted for buried ball valves,as shown below.

High performance pipeline ball valve series has the feature of strength,high perfect sealing,maintenance-free,long life and so on.The production of this series ball valve adopts the international advanced ball valve design and manufacturing technology,selects high-quality materials in accordance with the standard selection of materials and combines with advanced materials forming forging technology.At the same time,with the years of ball valve design and manufacturing experience,the use of advanced processing and manufacturing equipment and production and processing technology,through the first-class inspection and testing equipment and instruments,perfect quality assurance management system and excellence in the production of high-performance philosophy can ensure the quality of valves.This series of valve has the performance of a high strength,defect-free forging body,excellent sealing performance,even at maximum pressure difference(full pressure),it will still be able to ensure that seal without leakage,after frequent switching action to realize a safe usage in the transportation of oil,natural gas,coal gas,and other special medium transportation pipeline.

Performance & Dimensions of pipeline ball valve

Standard Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API   customize   

Pressure Rating

 1.6 Mpa  2 Mpa  5   Mpa  8 Mpa  10 Mpa  16 Mpa  25   Mpa  42 Mpa

 150 Class  300   Class  600 Class  900 Class  1500   Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve Size

 50 mm  80 mm  100   mm  150 mm  200 mm  250 mm  300   mm  350 mm 400 mm  450 mm  500   mm  550 mm  600 mm  650 mm  700 mm  750   mm 800 mm  850 mm  900 mm  1000   mm  1050 mm  1200 mm  1400 mm

 2 inch  3 inch  4   inch  6 inch  8 inch  10 inch  12   inch  14 inch  16 inch 18 inch  20   inch  22 inch  24 inch  26 inch  28   inch  30 inch  32 inch  34 inch 36   inch  40 inch  42 inch  48 inch  56   inch customize 

Actuator

 Electric  Handle  Hydraulic  Pilot-hydraulic  Pneumatic customize   

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

Medium

 Gas customize 

Medium Temperature

 -29~150  -46~150 customize   

Application Fields

 Electricity  Petrochemical  Power   Station customize 

Component Materials of pipeline ball valve

1-Body Material

 A105  A350-LF2-M customize   

2-Bonnet

 A105  A350-LF2-M customize   

3-Stem

 4410+ENP customize 

4-Ball

 A350   LF2+ENP  A105+ENP customize 

5-Material of Valve Seat

 fluorine rubber customize 

5-Seat

 Nylon  PTFE  peek  DEVLON customize   

6-Seat ring

 A105  ENP+A322   4140 customize 

7-Packing chamber

 A322 4140+ENP  A105 customize   

9-Stem gasket

 RPTFE customize 

10-Packing

 graphite  PTFE customize   

11-Packing gland

 ENP+A350   LF2  ENP+A105 customize 

12-Body gasket

 Stainless   steel+graphite customize 

13-Gasket

 Stainless steel+graphite customize   

14-Top flange

 A105  A350   LF2 customize 

30-Supporting board

 A105  A350   LF2 customize 

31-Gasket

customize 

55-Seat spring

 B637 Inconel X750 customize 

56-Anti-static spring

 B637 Inconel X750 customize 

60-Bolt

 A320   L7  A193-B7  A193-B7M customize 

61-Bolt

 A193-B7  A193-B7M  A320   L7 customize 

62-O-ring

 fluorine rubber  hydrogenated   nitrile butadiene rubber customize 

63-Fire-safe ring

 flexible graphite customize 

64-O-ring

 hydrogenated nitrile butadiene   rubber  fluorine rubber customize 

65-O-ring

 fluorine rubber  hydrogenated   nitrile butadiene rubber customize 

66-O-ring

 fluorine rubber  hydrogenated   nitrile butadiene rubber customize 

67-Bolt

 A193-B7M  A320   L7  A193-B7 customize 

68-Nut

 A194 2HM  A194 4  A194   2H customize 

71-Key

 A322 4140 customize 

72-Locating pin

 A322 4140 customize 

73-Locating pin

 A322 4140 customize 

80-Seat injection valve

 WCB+ENP customize 

81-Stem injection valve

 WCB+ENP customize 

82-Bearing

 PTFE+Stainless steel customize 

83-Drainage valve

 Stainless steel customize 

84-Vent valve

 Stainless steel customize 

85-Actuator

customize 

90-Plate

 Stainless steel customize 

Standards Applied of pipeline ball valve

Design Standard

 API 6D customize 

Connection Standard

 ASME B 16.25-2007  ASME B 16.5  ASME   B 31.4  ASME B 31.8  DIN  GBGB/T  JBJB/T JIS customize   

Test Standard

 API 6D customize 

Face to Face

 API 6D customize 

Pressure-temperature rating

 ASME B 16.34-2004 customize 

Marking

 MSS SP-25 customize 


Q: So just yesterday i bought a second-hand ytr 2320e. After i bought it, i washed it and tryed playing it, but when i press the first valve, there is this small metal scraping metal sound kinda like if you scratch a metal bowl with a fork. I think it has something to do with the spring but im not sure.also, i was wondering if the trumpet valves are supposed to be very easy to press, or if they take a tiny bit of push.
No, there shouldn't be any scraping sounds. Yikes! It may be simply that the spring guide is misaligned. I'd pull the valve and try to make sure it locks-in when you replace it. On Yamaha's, the valve guide locks in with the valve facing forward (or backward - but you won't be able to blow through it with the valve down). So pull it. Look to see if there's a number engraved on the top section of the valve, and if so... it faces the player. Once you slide it in, turn it side to side slightly. If it won't turn, the valve guide is in place. If it turns a little, you should eventually hear the valve guide snap into the groove and you won't be able to turn it. If the scraping sound continues, the spring may be bent and need to be replaced (easy do-it-yourself kits available on-line). As to the sound, my guess is that this is just a matter of adjusting to a MUCH smaller mouthpiece than you're used to using. Everyone sounds awful when they start. That said... You should also check to see that the spit-valve corks are there and sealing the tuning slide and third valve slide completely. They'll fall off sometimes, which creates a leak and thus an annoying buzz in the sound. It's a good student model trumpet, so congrats on the purchase, and enjoy!
Q: i just replaced the head gaskets on my 1991 Acura Legend and When i put the timing belt on somehow it slipped and came loose I than tried to start it(not knowing it came loose) and it cranked hard and strong but no start. I just retimed the engine and put new timing belt set on it and when i started it the car blows grayish blackish smoke from the exhaust and has a really crazy idle. Could the valves be bent
The 1991 Acura Legend 3.2 is listed as an interference engine. (Other models that year if any probably not). If it is an interference engine the valves may have been bent. But asking y/a is not the answer. What you need is a compression test. If the compression is alright then there could still be damage but not in immediate need of repair. Black smoke means incomplete combustion.
Q: non-return valves
..?..non-return valves..? I will assume that your 'non-return valves', are what is also known as check valves. Check valves allows flow in one direction only. These are used wherever you need to prevent backflow into the system, or to maintain a charged circuit with fluid, until you choose to unload(depressurize ) it. Now, why are they used in discharged lines of salt water, basically to prevent backflow....reason not known, here , requires usage info.
Q: i have been having these chest pains and i went to the doc. they did an ekg, blood test for enzymes and a echo. Well today i went back for the results of the echo and was told that i had a leaky valve but it was nothing to worry about and that there are just trace amounts of valve regurgitation. Im only 19 and i have no other history of heart problems or diseases should i be worried...they said i didn't need any anti biotics or anything and that it wouldn't kill me just to watch for it as i age into my latter years of life 50-70, but im still kinda worried..anyone else have this? im also pregnant and im concerned as to how this will affect my pregnancy, labor and delivery????
i was born with hypoplastic right ventrical with pulmonary artistia, and ive had several heart surgery's. when i was about 13 they told me my tricuspid valve had a leak. the blood would flow from my right atriam through my tricuspid vaulve to my right ventrical but some blood would leak back to my atrium. when i was 18years and 8 months old they fixed it by replacing my pulmonary vaulve with a real pig vaulve and stiched up my tricuspid vaulve it still has a leak but its not has bad. im 22 yearls old now and im fine. they told me there would be no problems have children they would just have to keep a close eye on me.
Q: what is a silicone purge valve.
There are a number of things that will Toss out and ERG code on Fords (another reason I will never own another ford as long as I live) Double check all joints around the EGR valve and the tubes that connect too it. You may have a pin hole in one of the tubes or a loose coupler. If everything checks out there. Verify the vacuum line going to the EGR is not cracked, rotted, broken, or clogged. If it is replace the line. Next you need to check and make sure the valve is opening at the correct time. If the EGR is slow to open, becomes stuck half way or is opening to quickly, these will all toss out EGR codes. Then there is the possibility that the tubes for the EGR, or the EGR it's self may be clogged as well. In which case you need to remove them and clean them out. Hope this helps in your trouble shooting. Good luck.
Q: I'm thinking about getting a Cold air intake along with a Bypass Valve to prevent Water Indigestion on my Toyota Corolla 07. I was wondering if Bypass Valves actually work and can someone explain to me the physics around it???( How bypass valves work)
This Site Might Help You. RE: Cold Air intake + Bypass Valve. ? I'm thinking about getting a Cold air intake along with a Bypass Valve to prevent Water Indigestion on my Toyota Corolla 07. I was wondering if Bypass Valves actually work and can someone explain to me the physics around it??( How bypass valves work)
Q: what to use to inflate self sealing tube with the presta valve?
You okorder /
Q: I have a 99 Yamaha Warrior 350 and i am needing to take it and get the valves adjusted. I know prices will range from state to state but what would be the average price to take and get them adjusted?? Just the valves not including if they had to change the seals or anything.. Thanks(PS im a girl so put it in simple words!)
The mechanics charge about $40. But, you can learn to do it yourself it is easy. Just loosen the outer nut. Turn the center one til it touches. Then back it off 1/8th of a turn. Then while holding the center one tighten the outer nut. Then your done with that valve, and repeat for however many valves you have.
Q: ex: 4 stroke 16 valve engine
? r u going to include the number of cylinders?
Q: When I put my check valve on my air line the air doesn't come through the air stone but when I take off the check valve it works. Also I switched the sides of the check valve and it didn't work. Click the link this is the air pump.
Or if you can, go to petsmart and get one there. Petco tends to sell sub-par items and livestock. If you have a tank that is bigger than your air pump was intended, then you will have problems. Say you bought a 10 gallon air pump for your 20 gallon tank. The strength of the pump is only able to push air down to counteract the average depth of a 10 gallon tank, against the pressure of only that much water. However if it were in a 20 gallon, it may not be able to counteract the water and the check valve (which shouldn't be causing much of a problem anyways). Make your line shorter and see if that helps. You don't need tons of extra airline tubing coiled around. Cut it down to the length you need, and try again. Remember, check valve should be OUTSIDE of the water, in the direction indicated on the valve (as to which side is in, which side is out), and it should be closer towards the pump itself. The check valve just prevents any water from dripping back into the pump.

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