XBD-BPO Fire Fighting Pump

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1. Summary

XBD-BPO series fire fighting pump group is double suction split spiral casing centrifugal pump. This series product
is made by means of a good modern hydraulic model, via the computerized optimized design and strictly following the
national standard: GB6245 Fire Fighting Pumps , features a compact and reasonable structure, a nice outlook design,
greatly enhanced indexes of reliability and efficiency and is applicable for transporting the liquid below 104℃ , without
containing solid grains or with the physical nature similar to that of pure water, mainly for the water supply for the fire
fighting system in industrial and civil buildings.

2.Operating Condition
Pump outlet diameter: 80~250 mm
Capacity : up to 345 L/s
Pressure : up to 3MPa
Temperature : normal temperature
Medium: pure water and similar to that of pure water

Q: i need help on how to replace a water pump oil seal in a 2001 rm80...i looked everywhere...if you can get a video or detailed info that be great, thanks: Drain coolant - #13 drain bolt Remove hose from water pump cover Remove water pump cover - #12 Drain oil Remove R side cover - #1 Remove circlip - #23 Remove water pump shaft - #19 Pull out water pump seal - #20 Note the direction the seal is installed Tap in new seal This entire procedure is explained in detail in your service manual.

Q: My friends car is a 1997 jeep wrangler. The belt broke and she took it in to get it replaced and they told her metal from the pully that broke got into the water pumpand they have to replace that to? WTF? it makes a squealing noise and they want to charge her another 300 for that! we just don't understand how that could be if the pump isn't even leaking?: Well like someone else has mentioned the squealing usually comes from the round pulley that the belt rides on maybe in your case some metal has damaged the idler puller on your water pump and that would definitely give you a consent squeal. the price to replace your water pump is very excessive the part at any over the counter parts store ranges from 30-45 dollars the labor too do this on a jeep is 2.2 hrs @ the shops hourly rate which also varies but 45-55 hour isn't unreasonable... so on the high side of these figures it should be about 120.00labor 45.00 parts so a bill of $165.00 would be more appropriate......but if you don't make the repairs knowing it still has a problem you might void any type of repair warranty on your current repairs already completed...hopefully this has helped you somewhat...jimboz

Q: Looking for a pro's advice here. My Corolla has developed a strange noise over the past few cold weeks (Highs of 10 degrees max, well below zero at night). The sound would best be described as a cricket-type rythmic chirp noticable during acceleration. I don't believe it's a belt because it comes and goes though it has steadily gotten louder. I vaguely remember this sound being related to a bad water pump I had a few years ago. Do you think this could be the same thing? Three years for a water pump? And do water pumps tend to go out more frequently in the cold weather? Thanks!!!: timing belt

Q: I just got a new boat with a diesel engine and I don't understand why there is a coolant tank as well as a water pump? I think the water pump goes to the heat exchanger but what actually cools the motor - how does this stuff work?: this is refered to as a fresh water cooling system. the engine has a coolant tank and a recirc pump that pumps the coolant through a tube and shell heat exchanger,just as a car does through a radiator. instead of air around the radiator, the exchanger has sea(lake)water pumped through it by a engine mounted pump or a pump on a outdrive if so equiped. the engine heat is transmitted from the engine coolant to the exchanger, and out to the sea(lake). this system has many advantages. one of the most important is the fact that salt or brackish water never touches the engine block or components, preventing costly corrosion. secondly it keeps the engine running at a more even or constant temp. this is very important to a diesel as the engine puts out its hp and performance at a set temp. the heat exchanger can have an automatic drain system, draining water out of it and with coolant (antifreeze) in the engine, the boat can be operated in freezing weather without freezing, or draining the block every night. Heat exchangers can be backflushed easier than an engine, and allow the boat to be operated in muddy or contaminated water. (I have seen boats with tandem exchngers in case one plugs up or needs cleaning). gasoline and diesel engines can have exchanger systems, but since diesels inherantly are more expensive and live longer, a heat exhanger system is worth while.

Q: motor overheats but no leak. water just boils in resorvoir. is it hard to do it on my own?: Water pumps have whats called a weep hole, if it's going the weep hole will leak coolant, Could be the belt on the waterpump is not tight eneough to turn the pully.

Q: guys i have a mini-water pump.....i wanna pump kerosene instead of water,to make a mini stove,on my own..my doubt is ...if the water pump is used to pump kerosene,will the kerosene ignite inside the pump itself or will cause any problem..i just want the pump to pump kerosene....will it ignite inside of the pump,because the pump runs on electricity....can u clear my doubt: Is the motor of the pump built-in so that the pumped fluid flows through the motor also? If the answer to the question is yes then do not use the pump for pumping kerosene. However, if the pumped liquid does not come in contact with motor then you can use the pump for pumping kerosene. But ensure that the pump shaft seal is of mechanical type (so that kerosene does not leak from the shaft sealing area) with parts (specially any rubber parts) compatible with hydrocarbons (use viton rubber parts instead of EPDM)

Q: here is the problem with my water pump control switch settings. the water is being used, runs dry and stays off for sometimes 3 minutes or so.i realize the springs control the cut in and cut out. do i need to make the spring more compressed to make the pump come on sooner? or do i need to make the spring looser to make the switch come on sooner?when i read/hear about adjusting the cut in. the answers seem vague because i do not know the perspecitve of the spring.does compressing the spring make the swith flip easier? or does compressing the spring make the switch harder to flip on?i installed a new 30/50 switch today. My air tank was at 50 or so PSI. but i dropped it to about 30. is the goeal to make the entire full system 50 pounds? because after my pump cycles i get about 70 psi!!!: with the switch set to operate at 30/50 the tank should have 27 or 28 pounds of air with no water in tank and a faucet open with pump turned off...once this is set the pump will come on at 30 and off at 50 if it goes higher than this the switch is bad or the adjustments have been changed....tightening the tall spring turns both cut in and cut off pressure higher...loosening the tall spring turns both cut in and cut off lower....the short spring sets the difference between the two...tightening the shorth spring raises cut off pressure only...loosening the short spring lowers cut off pressure only....

Q: A rectangular tank that is 2 feet long, 3 feet wide and 6 feet deep is filled with a heavy liquid that weighs 80 pounds per cubic foot. How much work is done pumping all of the liquid out over the top of the tank?How much work is done pumping all of the liquid out of a spout 5 feet above the top of the tank?How much work is done pumping two-thirds of the liquid out over the top of the tank?How much work is done pumping two-thirds of the liquid out of a spout 5 feet above the top of the tank?I thought that math was hard enough and now they added physics..: Work is force x distance, which is conveniently pounds x feet. Since we are only interested in the height here (as that is the direction we are pumping), we only need to integrate along that path. The differential weight/force being pumped is the volume (LxWxH = 2 x 3 x dH) times the density (80) and the distance is the height that volume is pumped (6 - H). So W = integral( 6 * 80 * dH * (6-H)) from H=0 to 6 W = integral ((2880 - 480H) dH) = 2880H - 240*H^2 = 2880(6) - 240*(6)^2 = 8640 foot-pounds of work. If you are pumping from the spout, replace the 6-H with 11-H, and the answer becomes 23,040 foot-pounds, which makes sense since you have almost tripled the averge height you were lifting. For the 2/3, change the range of the integration to H = 2 - 6, since H = 0 - 2 represents the water at the bottom of the tank that will still be there later. This gives you answers of 3840 and 13,440 foot-pounds respectively, showing that the last couple of feet are the hardest to pump out (because they have the farthest to go...)

Q: I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Raider that I'm pretty sure needs a new water pump. It is still under warranty for another 1000 miles, but the nearest dealer is over 200 miles away, and Mitsubishi says they won't reimburse for work done at a non-Mitsubishi Dealer. I'm trying to figure out if the cost of just paying someone to have it done here in town versus having towed 200 miles and then driving it back, plus the lost cost of missed work.By the way my Mitsubishi Roadside Assistance will tow it to the nearest dealer for free, but last time I did that it was barely worth the hassle of dealing with their very poor contract towers.: Have you asked the dealer to send you the part at least? Call Mitsubishi and ask it that would be possible, you never know. You could send in the old pump and possibly get compensation. Keep your bills. Discuss it with them. Your dealer should provide you with the area Mitsubishi representatives contact information. The prices for those can be expensive. Ask the dealer, service dept, for the labour, how many hrs. to change the pump. They should tell you. Also for the cost of the pump. Add the two together and you have your ans. Join CAA, or AAA, get a gold card, wait two days for the card's towing to take effect, then have it towed in on the card. Done all the time. Or if you have a relative with a Gold card they can have it towed in as long as they are with the car with their card when the tow truck comes.

Q: I have gotten oil in my coolant, and coolant in my oil..It might be the head gasket, no doubt, but many people said (online forums) that my bike, has issues with the seal that is separating oil pump from water pump. They go bad, and when they do, the oil mixes with coolant and vise versa. Now, I am seeking from professional help, on how to take out both of the pumps, without messing up timing, and also without messing up anything else. I have removed the entire exhaust system, dropped the oil pan, and i can see the oil/water pump pretty good. What i do not know is how to remove it properly. Any help is help, I have searched and searched on google and forums on how to perform this task, but couldnt find any specific help on how to remove the pump. Thank you!!!!!: Take pictures make notes if you don't have a manual.

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