CDC3　Series AC Contactor

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Applicable Range

CDC3-9～110 AC contactor is designed for long-distance making and breaking in circuit, with AC50Hz (or 60Hz), rated operating voltage up to 660V. When rated operating voltage is 380V in Category AC-3,rated operating current to the power system is up to 110V .It also can be formed with thermal overload relay or electrical protection apparatus and form electromagnetic starter to protect circuit against overload.

Applicable Standards

National Standards: GB14048. 4
National Standards: IEC 60947-4-1

Normal working and installation conditions

1. Altitude: no more than 2000m.
2. Ambient temperature: within -5℃～+40℃,and the average temperature no more than +35℃ in 24 hours.
3. Relative humidity no more than 50% at max. +40℃, and it may be higher at a lower temperature . The lowest average temperature no more than +25℃ in the wettest month . The maximum average relative humidity of this month doesn't exceed 90%, The change of temperature leading to dew on the surface of product must be considered.
4. Class of pollution: Class 3.
5. Vertical or horizontal installation is allowed. The inclined angle between the mounting surface and vertical surface no more than ±30°under vertical installation.
6. Installation condition: class III.

Structure features

1. It is compact and beautiful.
2. Good performance of arc extinction without flashover, CDC3-9～16 adopts automatic arc-extinguishing, but CDC3-26～110 have a “U” type arc-extinguishing slice located on the body and form enclosed arc-extinguishing chamber.
3. Perfect conductivity: contact is made of the silver base alloy materials with resistance to fusion welding and electrical friction.
4. Convenient connection for coil have two types, namely, front and front &back outlets
5. High safety: conductive parts are not exposed to the air.
6. Installation condition is class III, screw and guide rail installations.
7. More options for accessories.

Outline and Installation Dimensions

Q:Hi , I want to know what are the various components which needs to be fitted for putting AC in my non-AC Maruti 800? I want to make sure the mechanic doesn't take me for a ride.: Wow. That's a lot of work and parts. Start with the compressor, which is expensive for an average car, plus condenser, high and low pressure valves, hoses, lines, sensors, expansion valve, and the relay system which will need to be wired into your existing fuse system, which may have to be replaced as well. He'll have to use new parts because old parts from junk cars will have dry rot and corrosion, plus it's not good for AC systems to sit for long periods with no pressure or oil inside.

Q:around ignition fuse. 98 dodge ram.: If you hear a click in the fuse panel, that's your starter relay closing. That's a good thing. That means you have power up to that point. Test your relay contacts in the base across 30 and 87 to see if power is going through the thing once the switch is closed. If so, it sounds like you have a mechanic who likes to replace component after component until the problem goes away. But the reality is, in wiring problems, the problems is usually in the wiring. Have a voltage drop test done from the battery to your starter. Ask for this specifically. Allot of mechanics think voltage drop is for the class room and once the last test is written, the math is over and done with, but keeping that stuff in mind can tell you allot of why things aren't working.

Q:Contrast how a fuse and a circuit breaker work to prevent overloading in circuits.: A fuse is a one time use component, it self destructs in order to open the circuit. A circuit breaker is a reusable/resettable protection device. Once tripped and the circuit fault repaired a circuit breaker may be reset

Q:1991 Honda Civic Si Hatchback. The fuse is hot with car off. It gets an immediate ground short when I turn it on. Wiring schematic says this wire goes directly to ECU. So if it were shorted against body somewhere, it would blow fuse key on of off.Tomorrow I will trace wire directly to ECU and clip it off. If it is ungrounded until I turn on key and then goes to ground when I turn on key, is that sufficient proof that my ECU has an internal short and is junk to be replaced.I hate replacing parts then finding that was not the problem.: odds are it's not your cpu. Check your engine wiring harness for shorts. Power can go through you ecu, and back out another wire where it shorts out and blows the fuse. Most likely locations to find a short are anywhere the wiring harness is too close to the engineespecially the exhaust manifold. Ultimately I would mark every wire and remove the whole harness from the engine leaving it connected to the ecu, and have a couple of fuses ready. Try the key with the only thing connected being the ECU if the fuse blows it's either your ECU or wiring harness. If not, begin reconnecting the harness one device at a time till you find the one that blows the fuse, and you've found your short, replace that component. If you determine it to be the ECU or wiring harness, you can un tape the harness and look for a burned wire. Failing that replace the ECU.

Q:I have a 1987 ninja 750. i bought it and it turned on with an old battery but needed to be jumped to start. i bought a new battery . a duralast the one you add the acid in and charge. but now it wont turn on. a battery before that i added a new battery but i mixed up the terminals (pos on neg and neg on pos) did that mess up the electrical stuff or fuses or am i doing something wrong. hope to hear some help.: james is right you MUST have blown a fuse or two and a blown fuse will keep electricity from getting to any thing and everything so double check all of your fuses and uhhh do something about your terminals i am hoping the reason you mixxed them up is because they arent marked and so you should mark them so you dont take a chance of doing even more damage

Q:i recently got my battery replaced because it wasnt holding charge. when it came out of the shop, the clock, power mirrors, and floodlights arent running. everything else seems fine, and i checked the fuses, all are intact. There were no problems with those 3 components before the battery was replaced. Any Ideas to fix this? thanks: Did you check the fuse block in the engine compartment. There may be a fuse or relay there that is bad. There may be a spare relay in the box. If this fails, I would go back to the shop and explain it to them. They may have disconnected something and didn't get it hooked back up. Hope this helps and good luck

Q:I turned on my car to go to work and I noticed my windshield wiper fluid kept spraying. I got to a stop sign and turned off my car for a few seconds and when I started it up again the problem continued. I got to work and thought I would try it again, same result. Same happened after work and this morning. I see how to fix the problem, hopefully, but how do I fix it? I thought I got the fuse, I think it's called (not really a car person), and I tried getting it off but only a plastic part did. Any help?: so your spray isnt working change the fluids

Q:I have a 240 watt car amp and every time i put my ground wire in the fuse blows and the only other thing i have hooked up is my power no speakers or remote just the ground and power can someone please help me?: I think because your ground wire is cross, get a cheap meter and check the ground wire is right, when you buy it they will tell you how to check, and its easy

Q:i think its a fuse.? some guy told me that he was going to rear end me cause of it. recently i had a stereo put in that could have messed with the wiring. i also had an accident and my car was in the repair shop. . . ? what should i do should i take it to a dealership and they can check it or is it a simple fuse? i have a toyota camry 2006 with power windows.: Try brake light switch at brake pedal after checking bulb and fuse.

Q:I also here a thumping noise on the passenger side dash board when I turn the vehicle off what should I do: It sounds like the ac compressor clutch is bad. How to troubleshoot: Unplug the A/C compressor clutch wire and replace fuse and turn on A/C. If it does not blow, it is not anything in the wiring to the compressor. If it blows without the compressor plugged in you are going to have to check wiring and components from the compressor back.

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