• CDC3 Series AC Contactor System 1
CDC3 Series AC Contactor

CDC3 Series AC Contactor

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Applicable Range

CDC3-9~110 AC contactor is designed for long-distance making and breaking in circuit, with AC50Hz (or 60Hz), rated operating voltage up to 660V. When rated operating voltage is 380V in Category AC-3,rated operating current to the power system is up to 110V .It also can be formed with thermal overload relay or electrical protection apparatus and form electromagnetic starter to protect circuit against overload.


Applicable Standards

National Standards: GB14048. 4
National Standards: IEC 60947-4-1


Normal working and installation conditions
Normal working and installation conditions

1. Altitude: no more than 2000m.
2. Ambient temperature: within -5℃~+40℃,and the average temperature no more than +35℃ in 24 hours.
3. Relative humidity no more than 50% at max. +40℃, and it may be higher at a lower temperature . The lowest average temperature no more than +25℃ in the wettest month . The maximum average relative humidity of this month doesn't exceed 90%, The change of temperature leading to dew on the surface of product must be considered.
4. Class of pollution: Class 3.
5. Vertical or horizontal installation is allowed. The inclined angle between the mounting surface and vertical surface no more than ±30°under vertical installation.
6. Installation condition: class III.


Structure features

1. It is compact and beautiful.
2. Good performance of arc extinction without flashover, CDC3-9~16 adopts automatic arc-extinguishing, but CDC3-26~110 have a “U” type arc-extinguishing slice located on the body and form enclosed arc-extinguishing chamber.
3. Perfect conductivity: contact is made of the silver base alloy materials with resistance to fusion welding and electrical friction.
4. Convenient connection for coil have two types, namely, front and front &back outlets
5. High safety: conductive parts are not exposed to the air.
6. Installation condition is class III, screw and guide rail installations.
7. More options for accessories.


Outline and Installation Dimensions


Q: i the wiring going to the fue box bad or is the ecu bad?
Put a fuse that is correctly rated for that slot. Turn the ignition on (engine off) and see if the fuse pops. Right now you may have a short in that system. You need to recreate the situation that popped the fuse in the first place. The only way for wiring to go bad is to draw to many amps through the wires that will in turn, melt the wires. The fuse box is there to protect the vital components of the car. If the mass air flow sensor is not working, the car will not stay running. It will start, but not stay running.
Q: Hi I have a 32v buss AGC 15A fuse that burned out can I put my buss AGC 20 instead or do I NEED to buy the 15Thank you,Rob
Strongly suggesting that you don't do that. Something caused the fuse to blow and putting a higher amp fuse can cause a fire or worse.
Q: I own a 21.5' Spectrum sail boat I
any of the books by Nigel Calder will give you the details on proper marine wiring. I suspect your boat was made in the 1970's or 80's and the wiring is not adequate for today's safety standards. The number of fuses depends on the accessories you have. And you want to be sure to fuse each major accessory e.g. bilge on one, radio on one, navigation lights on one,
Q: I live in Klang Valley, Malaysia
service station, car accessory place, electrical component store
Q: considering this car for a project btw i'd do ALL the work i mean parts
Drainage' is cheap to fix, once you find it. If it's just your time, (and you've got a lot of it), go ahead. It means isolating parts of the electrical system and patiently going over the wiring to find the 'leak'. (In a vehicle that old there might be a lot of frayed/abraded wire to replace because it's 'about ready to go'.)
Q: I turned on my truck the other day and suddenly my radio, dome light and power locks did not work. I wouldn't think all of these would be on the same fuse, but I don't know much about that stuff. Could it be a bad ground wire?
Unfortunatly, all of those things are normally on the same fuse. You blew it, litterally. P.S.I'm a mechanic
Q: I was able to find out what the source of amperage draw was coming from, and it is the IOD. It is drawing 0.426 amps. The meter reads 0.923 and the Vehicle reads 0.497 without it installed. Generally, vehicles should have this amount to begin with correct? What could possibly be the issue with the IOD? Why is there an excess in amperage draw?
IOD stands for Ignition Off Draw, so obviously it will always exist on modern cars. There are things like clock, radio stations, etc., that always draws a small amount of parasitic current. I am not sure what the normal IOD draw should be, but is yours so much that the battery dies over night and won't start? If not, then forget about it. Try taking the battery cable terminal off a battery post and putting a test light across the gap. It is does not light bright, then it is probably too low of amps to worry about. But if it is too much, then you disconnect things one at a time, like stereo, to determine the cause.
Q: I'd like to be able to generate significant voltages of DC for experimentation purposes, but so far am having difficulty in creating/sustaining such high voltages. My hope is that the answer may lie in building a voltage multiplier, but I know very little about such technology. It seems I could potentially build one if I knew what components to get and how to configure them. Any help would be appreciated.
yes, you can use ordinary diodes and caps for this. The difficulty is in adequate separation and insulation between stages. For example, if you start with 120 volts ac, from a simple isolation transformer, you can get 160 volts per stage. You need 400 volt diodes, although I'd get 800 volt ones for extra margin, such as 1N4008, as the price difference is small. For the caps, it depends on the current. I'd get perhaps 20?F caps. You need only 200 volts, but I'd try for 400 volts for extra margin, in case one stage dies. reference has more details. edit: I'd be sure to use lots of fuses, like 1 amp ones. And I'd get some high voltage resistors, so you could build a voltage divider to measure voltages. For example, a 100:1 divider could be a 99 M ohm and 1 M ohm. The 99 M could be 4 - 22 M and 1 - 11M. You may have to adjust the 1 M upwards to compensate for your voltmeter resistance. A thousand to 1 would be a 1 Gohm resistor and a 1 M resistor. You can get the Gohm from places like Victoreen, or build it up from smaller resistors. Note that 1/4 watt resistors usually have a max voltage rating of 450 volts. I have seen web pages that go into detail on how to do this, re epoxy and other techniques to maintain the high voltage. .
Q: How could this be if we are created from a single cell? Is it more the fact that we continue on from what we once were?Thank you for helping me clarify this
What do you suppose single cells are composed of -- molecules, which themselves can be disassembled into atoms. Atoms of hydrogen eons ago were part of early stars which began fusing hydrogen into helium as part of their normal process. As stars ran out of their simpler component, they began fusing the helium into heavier elements. More massive stars had more powerful forces of gravitational compression and forced fusion to higher levels. Once the fusion process reaches the production of iron, the fusion process stops putting out heat which fought to resist the forces of gravitational compression. At that moment (or instant), the star would have undergone a supernova explosion. This shock wave is so powerful that it is capable of pushing fusion to heavier materials such as gold, silver, platinum, etc. All elements from helium on, including carbon, nitrogen, oxygen, phosphorus, sulfur, and so on, were created by early stars which lived and died before the formation of our Sun. We are created from this star stuff.
Q: hey! i have a music man 112 rd 50 and have problems to go with it, im not sure what the issue is but heres what she is doing. when i turn her on i have to turn the volume all the way up to get sound (at least 6 to 10) and then the sound is very muffled and clips in and out, it is not reaching anywhere near the volume it should, ive changed the fuse (it was not turning on at first fixed that) i have also changed the preamp tube and other tubes, they all work fine as far as ii can tell (there new they better be) any idea what may be going on??
It could be the the power supply (that provided power to the tubes) is not working. Just because the low voltage filaments are getting power and lighting up doesn't mean that the high voltage portions of the tubes are getting power.

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