FD12-20kw-40-3 Wind generator
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Type: 3 Blade Upwind Rotor Diameter: 12.0 m Start-up Wind Speed: 2.5 m/s (5.6 mph) Cut-in Wind Speed: 3 m/s (6.7mph) Rated Wind Speed: 12m/s (26.8mph) Rated Power: 20k Watts Maximum Power: ~ 25k Watts Cut-Out Wind Speed: 15m/s(33.5mph) Timing manner: automatically adjust the windward angle Overspeed Protection: AutoFurl Temperature Range: -40 to +60 Deg. C (-40 to +140 Deg. F) Generator: Permanent Magnet Alternator Output Form: 360VDC Nominal | ||||||||
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- Q: I tried both slow-blow fuses and fast-acting fuses, the fast acting fuses are blown immediately, and the slow blow fuses allow the amp to turn on, but it doesn't work correctly. The amp is a fender personal small amp. How can the amp be fixed?
- If this is a solid state amp, the fuse is the only user repairable item. If the slow-blow fuse holds, but the amp doesn't sound right, it will require the assistance of a trained repair technician, which I am. Sorry for the bad news. If you will give a detailed description of what doesn't work correctly means, I will reply with my opinion of the seriousness of the repair. I assume this is a solid state amp? If it's one of the old tube type amps, you might be in luck. I could talk you through the fix. Good luck.
- Q: I have a circuit keep blowing fuse(0.4A) with slightly lower rating of my transformer (0.5A) without any load, so i think is the issue of in-rush current. ***Note : my transformer is toroidal, saw a lot of website saying they inhibit higher inrush voltage (80times. scary)***Will the in-rush current will do any harm or any changes to other things(component) ?If so, what type or rating of fuse should i get ? (best if easily get, market available)ORis there any way to de-energize the transformer when it is turned off/before switch on, or any circuit to use for protect over-current/voltage during inrush ONLY ***Note that i want to make my circuit fuse safe from short circuit and blow the fuse if it is really short circuit***
- The inrush current here happens because of the large capacitor. Initially it has no charge and no voltage, so the initial current flow into it is only limited by the resistance and reactance of the transformer. If anything a toroidal transformer would increase the inrush current, because it has less reactance! but the difference will be negligible. The usual (cheap) solution is to use a 'slow blow fuse', which wont blow from ther brief transient. Sometimes, a resistance is connected initially in series with the capacitor to minimise the initial current, and then shorted out by a relay after a small time. The limitations of a transformer are mainly due to heating: the inrush current is only a short time, so it should not cause the transformer to heat beyond its rating. Also, the rectifier may be damaged by the inrush if it exceeds its maximum 'non-repetetive' peak current rating, but this is usually very large.
- Q: Hey,Ww have a DC to AC converter so we can use our laptop and charge our cells on the road. The casing fell off the converter, and my mom and sister told me that it was stuck in the front power port (or point as the manual calls it) of the van.One day I decided to go out with a pair of hemostats and try and remove the plug. Little did I know that power was still running to the power point inspite of the engine off. Once the hemostats were inserted, there was this huge ark (tons of sparks) so I made sure everything ran properly and said that I would get the part out at a later date.Today I looked and it turns out no part is stuck in that power port, but it is dead. The fuses for the front and back port are okay along with the cigar lighter.I thought I could go pick up a new port from the dealership, but my mom thinks the wiring is fried, but if the voltage got that high, wouldn't the 20 amp (max of 240V) be fried?Anyone know what could be wrong? Is it the wiring or port?Ty!
- Im sure it would be the wiring or a fuse. I would check for a fuse under the dash and also there should be a main fusebox in the engine bay next to the battery. If it was the wiring then it would have shorted at the weakest place (or smallest gauge wire). When something like that happens you need to be carefull. There is no telling what kind of damage might have been done to other electrical components in the vehicle. Hopefully that was the only thing affected and you wont see any more problems come up later on. I would suggest having a diagnostic done on the electrical system just for good measure. good luck.
- Q: I tried to install a new car stereo today. Like the idiot i am, I ignored everything I read about disconnecting the battery negative before I started. I assumed that removing the fuses for the radio would be fine. Anyway. I got the radio, and it was working fine for about 5 minutes. Then one of my dome lights flickered, and the radio started turning off and on again. I decided to try turning on the engine at this point to see if it just wasnt getting enough power. By the time i had gotten to the drivers side, everything was dead. The car wouldnt start, the lights dont come on. Everything is just dead. It got dark on me, so I've yet to remove the stereo, or check the inside fuse box. I'm hoping that its just a fuse, but with everything being out, and the main fuse in the motor-area fuse box intact, im losing hope that thats all thats wrong. I was thinking fusable link, or a solenoid. How did I manage to mess it up that bad? And how do I fix it? Thanks
- It would help if you told us the year make and model of car.
- Q: I have an older 2-channel Sanyo audio receiver. It takes two fuses (one fuse for each speaker channel). The fuses that were originally in the receiver were 2A fuses. They are blown and I need to find replacements. I have two 4A fuses I pulled from an old stereo component system. They're both the same as the original fuses but they're 4A. Would it be safe for me to put them in the receiver? And if so, could I be able to turn the system up fairly loud without frying it due to using 4A fuses? Or should I avoid this altogether? It doesn't matter if I fry the system because it's old, but I'm more concerned if it created sparks or smoke or even started a fire.
- It's probably safe. There's a margin of error. Higher rated fuses are not going to by themselves create a dangerous situation, especially in the speaker leads. It's not going to let you play louder music though - that's limited by the design of the amplifier. The type of situation that would be dangerous is like if you had a reading lamp with a 2A fuse and 3A rated wire. So you swap the 2A fuse for a 13A fuse, and plug a 10A electric kettle into the light socket. Now you are pulling 10A down the 3A wire, and it gets hot and sets fire to the pile of old newspapers you had left on top of the wire.
- Q: A. protection from computer viruses.B. providing additional outlets for plugging in components.C. increasing the amount of power provided to a computer.D. an uninterruptible power supply.
- Fused Power Strip
- Q: i did something really stupid and connected my car battery the opposite way it should be (positive clamp to negative terminal and negative clamp to positive terminal; a few sparks flew). i tried to start the car but nothing happened when i realized what i did wrong i put the battery in the right way and the car started fine. i heard that when you connect the battery the wrong way it reverses polarity or something like that and that the battery cannot be used and that it messes up the alternator too.so that raises a couple question1) do i need a new alternator?2) even though the battery starts the car is it no good?3) will the battery end up exploding or malfunctioning because of the reversed polarity?
- Keep an eye out for developing electric issues but it seems like you got away with it make sure you check for corrosion regularly and fuses/ relays. Some cars have an auto shut off type protective system to protect the electrical system in case off accidental mistakes like this or power surge protectors.
- Q: HEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPP!!!!!!!!
- Yesi had the same problem with my stereo. Kept burning them up. Your voltage regulator is bad. The voltage regulator is an internal component in the alternator by 1987. Easiest way to decipher this would be to get a volt meter, put the positive lead to the battery power on the back of the alternator, and ground the black lead. IStart the truck, and if your alternator is putting out more that 14.4 volts, you have an issue. you should check it at idle, as well as when you rev up the engine, as the faster it spins, the more energy it creates. If you are not comfortable doing this, you can also remove the alternator and have it tested at a local auto parts storethey can check it for you.
- Q: Any ideas what th FL5 50 amp fusable link is for, thanks in advance
- Give the abs unit a slap with your palm.I had one of thes e with a stuck solenoid causing the unusual current flow What follows is not related to your problem but the info about FL5 follows:- If you have a Range Rover Classic or Discovery 1 that is getting up there in age and has had its share of use, not to mention exposure to western New York winters, you may soon find out how a fusible link works. Sometime in the 1992 Model Year, Land Rover introduced the fusible link as an added protection to the electrical systems in the Range Rover. This system also was used in the Discoverys. If you experience a number of sudden and simultaneous failures of various electrical systems and components, there is a good chance that you have blown one of these fusible links
- Q: Honda accord LX 2003 ac and wiper refuse to work.
- Check the fuse relay that's related to those circuits.If they are not blown,its either a problem in the wiring harness going to the wiper switch or ac clutch switch ac compressor switch,the switch itself like the multifunction switch that controls the wiper,,or its something wrong with the actual components that the fuse and relay powers such as the wiper motor or ac compressor.If the ac wiper button are on the same control panel,the panel itself is probably faulty if fuses are ok
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FD12-20kw-40-3 Wind generator
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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