FD12-20kw-40-3 Wind generator

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Type: 3 Blade Upwind

Rotor Diameter: 12.0 m

Start-up Wind Speed: 2.5 m/s (5.6 mph)

Cut-in Wind Speed: 3 m/s (6.7mph)

Rated Wind Speed: 12m/s (26.8mph)

Rated Power: 20k Watts

Maximum Power: ~ 25k Watts

Cut-Out Wind Speed: 15m/s(33.5mph)

Timing manner: automatically adjust the windward angle

Overspeed Protection: AutoFurl

Temperature Range: -40 to +60 Deg. C (-40 to +140 Deg. F)

Generator: Permanent Magnet Alternator

Output Form: 360VDC Nominal

Work principle and features

Working principle: Wind energy is used as the motive power to provide low speed rotation of a permanent magnet generator to produce alternating current which is then converted to direct current by a controlled constant voltage rectification system, the resulting voltage being stored in a battery, or batteries. The direct current from the battery, (batteries), is then converted to alternating current by an inverter, the resulting controlled and stabilised alternating current being used to power the load, this is the general principle for battery storage type systems. Grid connect systems take the alternating current produced by the turbine directly to an inverter which controls and stabilises the alternating current and also provides numerous control elements for direct connection to the electricity grid.

Features : The products combine unique and innovative design with high reliability. The innovative design has been awarded both Invention and Practical new patents by the State Intellectual Property Department and thereby has totally independent property rights in China, resulting in the market leading position in wind to electrical energy conversion, technical design and efficiency. Key design features such as very low rotation speed result in increased efficiency in comparison to other small turbine systems.

Applications and installations

The products are used in areas that benefit from good wind regimes but have little or no electrical grid connection such as; islands, desert and low inhabitation areas, frontier defence posts, microwave and telephone communication stations, forest observation posts, oil pipeline delivery stations, highway lighting etc. Rural and urban applications include, community squares and recreational areas, parks, landscape and scenic locations, resorts, and other ecological areas, applications also include on or off grid national electrified fencing systems.The utilisation of wind energy at no on-going cost significantly reduces the environmental impact of fossil fuel usage whilst saving vital energy resources.

Power Curve

Typical consumer schematic

Q: I have built a custom car and want to reuse the original fuse box under the dash. All I am running that require power is all my exterior lights, gauge lights, dome light, power windows, ignition switch, push start button, alternator, and distributor. I want my lights to have constant power to a switch just like factory but i want everything else to get power once the ignition is turned on, once again like a factory car. Any help is appreciated.: Best bet for the BAT/alternator fuse is a fuse link or maxi-fuse and you will save a bunch of heavy guage wiring. Your ignition switch may have one or two ACC wires and usually only one RUN wire and one B+ (battery feed). Determine which wires you want to feed the fuse panel strips with and hook them up to the common fuse box junctions - then run you accessory and other component wiring from the appropriate fuses in the box. Use the BAT feed wire from the ignition switch for your lighting fuses. More often than not, your head lamp switch has an internal circuit breaker for the head lamps.

Q: both these components stopped working suddenly on my automatic 2001 toyota Rav4 today. I have had no prior problems until this morning, now both arent registering anything at all. Any ideas what the problem might be, and how much its going to set me back financially to fix it?: if the gages read nothing i would start by checking fuses.

Q: Hello. I have a Peugeot 306 1.4i (2000). My battery wasn't holding charge and having tested it it became apparent one of the cells was damaged. Having replaced the battery the car still won't start. Prior to replacement of the battery the car had needed jump starting a few times.So when I turn the key to on position the lights on my dash light up. If I try to actually start car power dies. If I try and turn main lights on from this position - power dies. Once the power has died I can turn the key and no lights will come on dash. To get juice round the car again I can wobble the battery and power seems to flow back through car. Possibly there is an issue with battery connectors?I ran a multimeter over the main fuses with the key in on position and all the main fuses in the front have 12v running across them - so fuses good I'd think. This means the starter motor could be gone and draining all power? Maybe?Any ideas / suggestions would be spot on! Cheers.: get new terminals fitted .and as suggested charge battery ,car will start ok with that done .rem to tighten battery terminals well .you said you wiggle them and lights come on . that suggests not tight enough ok .all the best .

Q: I replaced the fuse, but all that happens is the directional arrow comes on and just stays there. It was flashing furiously. Now it just stays solidly lit. Any ideas?: What you are experiencing is a shorted multifunction switch. I am assuming all of your light bulbs are working properly. If the bulbs are not all working, fix this first and recheck. If you still have a solid arrow or it flashes like ten bear, you will have to replace the switch and harness inside the steering column. Good luck.

Q: I have a 1987 ninja 750. i bought it and it turned on with an old battery but needed to be jumped to start. i bought a new battery . a duralast the one you add the acid in and charge. but now it wont turn on. a battery before that i added a new battery but i mixed up the terminals (pos on neg and neg on pos) did that mess up the electrical stuff or fuses or am i doing something wrong. hope to hear some help.: If you connected a battery backwards, you hopefully just blew some fuses. Check them all. Note that there may be a main fusible link somewhere apart from the actual fuse block. If the fuses are all good, you've blown some major electrical component(s). Time to either start troubleshooting, or haul it to a shop.

Q: I have a 14ft V-bottom Lund fishing boat. Use it for fishing and whatnot. It is a pretty basic boat, no previous wiring. Here is the setup I am thinking of doing.Batteries will be up front under one of my seats. I am going to parallel two 12Vs together, and then run 4 awg wire to the back of the boat. The positive side will have a 20amp fuse. I am going to run these into two ground bars, one for the positive side and one for the negative side. All my components i wanna run will then hook up to these ground bars as well. I have a trolling motor, navigation lights, and going to put a CD player in it as well. And maybe a cigarette lighter. Do i need to be worried about anything or will this work fine? Should have more fuses or run a fuse panel instead of the ground bars? Any help would be great. The wiring is expensive, and i dont want to ruin it somehow. Thanks.: What is the total current draw if all the items are on at the same time? Example, trolling motor 6 amps, lights 10 amps, cd player 5 amps. that ads up to 21 amps peak, might be better with a 30 amp main fuse and each branch circuit has its own fuse of 10 to 15 amps capacity? Put a fuse in each branch item so one item does not take out everything. The way you have listed this, if one item goes bad and blows the fuse you lose everything. With individual fuses you only lose that item plus you know what broke down. Just a suggestion.

Q: i checked the fuses, i had similar problems when i tried to install a stereo deck myself. Also my srs lights are on and my window does not open.: time for another car friend. don't mess with this as it is old. face it jap cars don't last forever. u no n japan they don't rebuild anything? everything is replaced every 100,000 km which is 66000 miles. ur car isn't designed to last. that is why every jap car in a wreck is totalled. the jap car co's make more money selling u a new car. so but another jap car. I don't want to catch u riding n a real car, like a 57 chevy or 67 mustang. I will pop u n tha haid an take it from ya.

Q: I hooked up a tachometer on my bike and I accedentaly grounded a live wire and nothing would turn on. (headlight, guages, ignition and the bike is basically dead. I found a fuse under a component that is wired directly from the battery that was blown. I replaced it and it turned on my fuse box (Thats what my tach is wired to) is there another fuse I don't know about?: I'm thining you still have a bare wire grounding out somewhere, hard to find to :(

Q: I was just wondering what happens when an electrical component or circuit becomes 'shot' as we term it. Now I am studying engineering, and my field has delved slightly into electricity, so I understand electricity to a point. But anyone out their with a good understanding of electricity, what exactly goes wrong? Thanks.: The term shot as some engineers say, is used to describe a something that is malfunctioning or damaged to the point where it no longer works. Eg; The radiator on the car is shot, or the fuses are shot, Its not a technical term, rather slang. If you want to follow the correct wording, the part shold be called failed or defective rather than shot, as it conveys a cheap laid back worker (cowboy) rather than a qualified engineer.