• End Suction Centrifugal Horizontl Water Pump System 1
  • End Suction Centrifugal Horizontl Water Pump System 2
  • End Suction Centrifugal Horizontl Water Pump System 3
End Suction Centrifugal Horizontl Water Pump

End Suction Centrifugal Horizontl Water Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
10000 set/month

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                        End Suction Centrifugal Pump

1.Structure of End Suction Centrifugal Pump Description

End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.

End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.

2.Main Features of the End Suction Water Pump

very easy to be installed and maintained

Back pull-out design

•Driven through flexible coupling

Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.

•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system

3.End Suction Water Pump Specification

End Suction Centrifugal Horizontl Water Pump

4.Picture of End Suction Pump

End Suction Centrifugal Horizontl Water Pump 

5.FAQ

What is your product range?

Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage

pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe

water pump, boiler water pump, etc.

Are you a manufacturer?

Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.

What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?

Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.

 

Q: Does the water pump and the circulating pump belong to the centrifugal pump?
As long as the flow and head to meet what pump can be, the general centrifugal pump applications are more.
Q: Can I install a recirculating hot water pump to a boiler? Someone just told me that I have a boiler not a water heater, but I have to wait for minutes for the shower to heat up
Hi You need to give a little more information type of water heater est or Central heating boiler , you cant just fit a circulating pump on to a hot water circuit first it would have to be gunmetal or stainless steel construction and have a return circuit and a proper control system, if you find that you do have a water heater don't fit a pump. this work should ideally be carried out by an qualified heating engineer if possible. Bob a job
Q: Not sure of the year model but think it is a 1991 to 1995 Jayco 2500FS bumper pull trailer. I bought it to put on a deer lease. One of the previous owners had taken out the water tank which I plan on replacing. I can't find the water pump to see if I need to replace it as well. Also, if you know about how the pump knows when to kick on i.e. pressure switch, push button or what. I know I could take it to have repairs done but enjoy the diy thing. I am in the process of finding out the exact year model as well. Thanks!
having had many travel trailers the water pump is usually in a cabinet or under a bed or couch with a lot of plastic water lines near where you screw the water hose into the side of the trailer. and they are usually a preset psi from the factory so that is usually nothing to have to worry about and most have an on off switch located in the traier by the kitchen sink.And if the hot water heater is no good look into a tankless water heater it will save you money in the long run but initially you have to have a vent installed up through the roof away from a roof air vent. Another suggestion everytime you move a travel trailer they get the crap pounded out of them and someone needs to go up on the roof with a ladder and/or a plank that goes across the width so there is no weight standing on a roof to make dents or pop seams. Use some plastic stuff like plasticote available at wal mart after you move the trailer and set it up go up and make sure to double coat any of the seams that need it. I crank the heat up inside the trailer and do a double coat the heat rising will put a skin on the plasticote in a few hours instead of 12 or more. and the double coat gets any cracks missed the first time around. After that check it once a year if the trailer stays there.
Q: What does the pump lift mean?
The pump head is the height or length of the distance from the pump to the outlet
Q: We lost power during the hurricane, we have well water. the power went out and we lost water also, what are the procedures to bleed and restart a goulds pumps c48a93a06 water pump?
1. you are going to need at least a couple gallons of water in a bucket to re-prime. 2. look for a plug at the top of the pump and remove it. 3. pour water into the plug opening, filling up the pump as much as you can. 4. put plug back in so at least one thread is grabbing. by doing this it will allow air to escape and won't be spraying water everywhere. it is also a good idea to keep your hand on the plug. 5. turn on electricity to pump. 6. when you start to notice pressure re-gaining tighten up the plug so it does not drip. It is also a good idea to have an outside tap on to get air out of the lines. Another thing is, it is a good idea to shut off water to toilets and washing machines before re-starting pump because small debris have a habit of clogging them up. When your pressure is back, drain your toilet and cold water line to your washing machine, flushing all the stuff out until you see nice clear water. Hope I helped and good luck.
Q: Is there a way to test and see if it is the water pump that causes the car heater to blow hot air one time and then, next time it blows cold air? We flushed the heater core and did other tests, so we do not believe it is the heater core. We left the radiator cap off and ran the car (ford thunderbird..'94) for 20 minutes and watched the antifreeze level come up, but doesn't go down, not circulating. We cannot afford to go to another garage. None of them seem to know what to do anywyas and we keep paying people to fix the heater and it is not fixed. We have put two new thremostats in car, too, figuring that maybe the first one may have been faulty, but should we try that again?
Remove the thermostat totally from the car and then start it with the radiator cap removed.Verify that there are no vacume controlled valves in the hoses or intake manifold.If the water isn`t moving in the radiator,the impellers are broke in the water pump most likely shaft is broken.Dumb question here(is the pump belt driven?On the front of the engine or internal pump?)
Q: I moved into a house on a rural property in January, and we live off tank water and have a Grunfos PT18 pumping all our water into the house.The problem is, not all the time, but alot of the time my pump stays on after having a shower, the motor keeps running and restarting continuously as if it is desperately trying to pump more water through, until I go underneath my house and literally turn it off at the powerpoint, wait for a bit then turn it back on. I am scared if I leave the motor keep going like that it will burn my pump out. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can fix this problem, or why it may be doing this, or is something causing it?Thankyou in advance, from someone who has next to no knowledge about pumps!!
Sounds like it's waterlogged. That's what it's called when the water and the air in the resevoir tank mix, and the volume of air gets so small as to not be able to provide any decent compression with which to push water through the system. At that point, any time you open a fixture, the pressure drops enough to turn on the pump, and when you turn off the pump, if it's just right, it will turn off and then back on, then off, then on, back and forth till you shut it off and it can set and stabilize, till you need water again. The solution is to reintroduce a sizeable amount of air back into the top of the tank. If it's an older tank, without a bladder, (identified by the small bulge around the center of the tank and either a blue or rust color), then the best way is to simply drain the tank and restart the system. That way it will trap all the air in the top of the tank and you'll have enough pressurized air to push a gallon or two of water out, before the pump needs to kick on again. If it's the bladder type, with the bulge, then the bladder has blown and you're, in effect, working with a standard resevoir tank now, except that it will have an air valve in the top like a bicycle tire, so you can pressurize it with an air tank. If so, open some fixtures, start pressurizing the top of the tank and blow all the water out of the system. Once it's dry, put about 20 lbs. of pressure in the tank and start up the pump. You should be good to go.
Q: I have a 1985 Jaguar XJ6 that runs great, that I was thinking about trading for a 1991 Alfa Romeo 164 that needs a water pump. Just wanted to get feedback from Alfa owners and find out how hard it would be to put a water pump in the car. Thanks
About $130.00 for the water pump (first link below). As for the difficulty, take a look at the second link for a good thread on replacing the water pump on the 164.
Q: 1998 Toyota Camry 4-cyl.Engine starts and runs, but makes a horrible, random clunking sound that seems to come from the water pump area. Coolant was seeping from front cover, appeared to be from water pump area again. engine idles, but wont rev up at all.My guess is that a bearing let loose or a vane broke off the water pump and is bouncing around inside, triggering the knock sensor which pulls out all of the timing, not letting it rev. Sound right?If that is the problem, what all is involved in replacing the water pump? Its my roommate's car, but I told him I would fix it if possible to save some money. I'm a fairly competent mechanic, but I don't have the best setup here while I'm away at school, so any info on how involved this will be, how many hours of labor is listed for that, or anything to watch for from someone who has had a similar problem before would be greatly appreciated.
water pump is driven by timing belt. need to replace together. water pump may have threw belt off, explaining no acceleration. weekend job, use new pump, vs. reman. get set with belt and new tensioner.
Q: I have a '97 Chevy S-10 2.2 with 208K miles. Today on the way to work the heat cut out suddenly.I have had an issue with my engine where the temp will go up and down while on the highway but maxes out at like 215. Today after the heat cut out it was getting up near the redline before going back down to 150.I made sure the coolant was good before coming home but on the way home it was doing the same thing. I changed the thermostat but it's still doing the same thing.When I rev the engine I can see the upper radiator hose collapsing so it seems like there's a clog somewhere but I don't know how to find it. I guess it could be the water pump but then what is causing the suction on the upper radiator hose?Anyone have any ideas?
doesnt sound like water pump you may have lost a heater core thats what it sounds like to me its getting vacuum and temp is jumping but you dont have heat sounds like it to me check that next but as with the other selection check if your thermostat is in wrong

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