Electrical heating alloy wire high strength
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100000 m
- Supply Capability:
- 1000000 m/month
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Descriptions:
High resistance alloys for electrical heating
FeCrAl heating wire
We can offer heating wire/resistance wire such as NiCr , FeCrAl , CuNi ,CuMn and so on .
They have high electric resistance , good formability and weldability .
It can be sued for making heating element and resistror .
FeCrAl alloys are characterized by excellent oxidation resistance and very good form stability resulting in long element life.
They are typically used in electrical heating elements in industrial furnaces and home appliances.
FeCrAl alloy with high resistivity and service ability temperature than that for NiCr alloy and also has lower price.
The Performance of Fe-Cr-Al Electrothermal Alloys refers to th following table.
Forms: wire, bar, strip,sheet/plate,forging,tube/pipe,etc.
Do you provide free samples?
Yes, we can provide a free sample for testing, If we have sample in stock, The quantity based on the material type, The buyer should bear all the shipping costs.
Please feel free to send us a inquiry and we are looking forward to cooperating with you!
FACTORY
PACKING
| Grade Performance | 1Cr13Al4 | 1Cr21Al4 | 0Cr21Al6 | 0Cr23Al5 | 0Cr25Al5 | 0Cr21Al6Nb | 0Cr27Al7MO2 | |
| main chemical compositions% | Cr | 12.0~15.0 | 17.0~21.0 | 19.0~22.0 | 20.5~23.5 | 23.0~26.0 | 21.0~23.0 | 26.5~27.8 |
| Al | 4.0~6.0 | 2.0~4.0 | 5.0~7.0 | 4.2~5.3 | 4.5-6.5 | 5.0-7.0 | 6.0-7.0 | |
| Fe | balance | balance | balance | balance | balance | balance | balance | |
| Others | 0.70 | 0.70 | 0.70 | 0.70 | 0.70 | Nb:0.5 | MO2:1.8~2.2 | |
| The highest use temperatureºC | 950 | 1100 | 1250 | 1250 | 1250 | 1350 | 1400 | |
| Melting point ºC | 1450 | 1500 | 1500 | 1500 | 1500 | 1510 | 1520 | |
| Density g/cm3 | 7.40 | 7.35 | 7.16 | 7.25 | 7.10 | 7.10 | 7.10 | |
| Resistivity μ.Ω.m,20ºC | 1.25±0.08 | 1.23±0.06 | 1.42±0.07 | 1.35±0.06 | 1.42±0.07 | 1.45±0.07 | 1.53±0.07 | |
| Thermal conductivity KJ/m.h.ºC | 52.7 | 46.9 | 63.2 | 60.2 | 46.1 | 46.1 | 45.2 | |
| Specific heat J/g. ºC | 0.490 | 0.490 | 0.520 | 0.460 | 0.494 | 0.494 | 0.494 | |
| Number of repeated bending | ≥5 | ≥5 | ≥5 | ≥5 | ≥5 | ≥5 | ≥5 | |
| Accelerated test lifetime h/ºC | - | ≥80/1250 | ≥80/1300 | ≥80/1300 | ≥80/1300 | ≥50/1350 | ≥50/1350 | |
| Coefficient of linear expansion aÍ10-6/ºC 20~1000ºC | 15.4 | 13.5 | 14.7 | 15.0 | 16.0 | 16.0 | 16.0 | |
| Tensile strength MPa | 588-735 | 637-784 | 637-784 | 637-784 | 637-784 | 637-784 | 686-784 | |
| Elongation % | ≥16 | ≥12 | ≥12 | ≥12 | ≥12 | ≥12 | ≥10 | |
| Hardness HB | 200-260 | 200-260 | 200-260 | 200-260 | 200-260 | 200-260 | 200-260 | |
| Microstructure | ferrite | ferrite | ferrite | ferrite | ferrite | ferrite | ferrite | |
| Magnetism | magnetic | magnetic | magnetic | magnetic | magnetic | magnetic | magnetic | |
- Q: even if the damaged area isn't touching anything?
- the 1st element that jumps out is which you have 30 amp fuses. i believe which you have a 60 amp provider, which could have 4 15 amp fuses. not 30 amp. Overloading is possibly what's burning issues up. not one of the circuits of that era are grounded, yet you will have GFCI shops interior the kitchen and bathing room. they have a grounding plug as a count of course, notwithstanding that's suitable to hook them to a 2-cord circuit. figuring out to purchase grounded shops with not something to floor to is ineffective. if your aunt is your landlord, she could handle those matters, and pay for the electrician. do not attempt to rewire the abode your self. I had a tenant that concept he replaced into clever. After he burned the abode down, he did not experience so clever. ultimately, your electric enterprise could have the flexibility to grant you some training. often they'll deliver somebody out to grant a glance see for no fee.
- Q: I am experiencing a problem with electrical wiring. I was trying to change a lightswitch to a duplex lightswitch/outlet. I could only get the outlet to work, not the lightswitch part. So I deceided to switch back to my original lightswitch (that originally worked just fine) because I would have to wait for someone who knows more to help me with the duplex. Now the lightswitch doesn't work either. What could have happend to cause this and how do I fix this?
- It sounds like there are pigtails inside the box and one of them came loose. A pigtail is where the main electrical lines come into the box and then there is a shorter piece that it wire-nutted onto that. This shorter piece then goes to the switch or outlet. I would check the connections to see if one of them is loose.
- Q: (No I didn't do it.) I have a used vacuum and it has some damage to it's electrical cord by someone running over it several times. Some of the electrical wires are exposed but there is no damage to the wires, so it seems. What do you recommend other than replacing the vacuum? Thanks
- Cheap Electrical Tape
- Q: Electrical Wiring for solar USB Charger with rechargeable battery?My goal is to have some sort of three way connection that would allow my charger to have the option of having power run from:A) the solar panel to the batteriesB) the solar panel to the USB female connectorC) the batteries to the USB female connectorwith one switch if possible,Currently I have a DPDT center off switch that allows me to control whether power to the USB is coming from the batteries or the solar panel. Is there a 4-position rotary switch that could give me the 3 different on positions and 1 off position? How would I wire this?
- First I applaud your desire to make this gadget. yet why do you want to apply this way of battery? There are flat Lithium batteries besides except you're worried approximately area. I even have seen the Altoids photograph voltaic charger and the photograph voltaic panel is now and lower back greater advantageous then the container. if your iPhone has a 2,000 mAH score you may desire to evaluate a battery length of a million.5 to 2 circumstances greater advantageous then the gadget you desire to cost then do the calculation for the photograph voltaic panels.
- Q: Hi,If you were to wire up this motor, how do you go about doing that? To connect it to the mains for example.
- There are 5 or 6 11966 motors ranging from 1.5VDC, 1 Watt to 12VDC 20 Watts. These motors are normally powered by flashlight (torch) cells and not 220VAC. Adapters and approved, rectifying power supplies are probably available from the same source. You can wire these motors any way you wish if you confine yourself to flashlight cells, and approved power supplies.
- Q: How to use a multimeter to detect the cable is good or bad
- Because you say that the location of each water is a wet circle, then I certainly upstairs when doing waterproof, no water pipe around the additional layer, is not to take care of these weak links, resulting in water infiltration, the basic exclusion Wall tube pipe cracks, if the crack, then, is a large area of water seepage. You finally find upstairs to solve, if the delivery is still within five years, you can also find the property to help solve. If you can help to you, I hope you can adopt in time. '
- Q: I replaced a light socket that came with wire pre attached to it. I Replaced the socket with screw the wire on type socket, and used Pricola LL7763 Type Set-1 18AWX2C 105C electrical wire, how high would this be rated for amps and watts? I using it for a light bulb 100W and a space heater set low, maybe 800W total peak usage, is this safe? Thanks, Sean
- Yo should never plug a space heater into a light socket. That is not safe, irregardless of wire size or type.
- Q: Power inside L and N on behalf of what ah
- Sc: welded steel pipe tc: wire tube galvanized or non-galvanized thin steel pipe attached: pipe laying labeling method sc: welded steel pipe tc: wire tube galvanized or non-galvanized thin steel pipe pc: hard plastic pipe ct: cable bridge cp : Metal hose SR: steel trunking RC: water gas pipe KBG: pipe for the buckle-type galvanized thin-walled steel pipe, JDG: for the tight-fitting galvanized thin-walled steel pipe
- Q: I have a cooktop. wires coming out of it were cut at base of unit and i need to extend them. I already did and am now concerned my work is not safe the wires appear to be stranded 10 guage. I extended them with aluminum connectors that have set screws and then taped the hell ot of them. The wire I connected them to is ten guage. the unit now says it takes a 40 amp cir and to use 8 guage wire is this safe? shoudl I just use a 30 amp breaker instead?
- Pat From Ohio is correct! Covering connected wires without access is not only just a fire hazzard, but foolish. Even if you 'think' you will never have to access it again, there are conditions when you have to. Not to mention, if you were ever to sell the house, the new owner wouldn't have a clue it is there. No matter how 'tight' the wire nuts are, a short is always possible. Down the road someone else could replace the existing breaker with the wrong one and POOF! The 'hidden' connection burns up. Though it may not even cause any potential fire hazzard, trying to trace your short could be impossible if you don't know exactly where it is. They make many types of 'faux' (fake swiches, etc.) covers that you could use over the junction box. Do not put it behind the drywall or any other wallboard. Use your imagination as to how to make it a part of the scheme! Please use a junction box! If not for your own safety, how about the folks next door? Or the pets left alone that day! Good Luck!
- Q: Hi. I would like to add a Maestro Dimmer switch to a three way circuit. My current setup is that I have two switches that control one receptacle. I would like the finished job to have the receptacle be controlled by only the dimmer switch and have the second switch be inoperable.This is what I currently have for my wiring setup.Switch 1 (One wanting to add dimmer to and keep): Red and White wire connected at top of switchWhite connected at bottomTwo black wires connected to each otherSwitch 2 (One wanting to make inoperable):Black connected at topRed and White connected at bottom.Receptacle:White connected at topBlack and White connected at bottomTwo black wires and one white wire connected to each otherI understand somewhat how the two switches work but am baffled at the receptacles wiring. I am no electrician by any means so if someone could explain in simple terms, I would greatly appreciate it!
- Hi There, It is possible the light switch you installed has a high resistance. Try another switch or simply tie the two wires together and see if that makes a difference. Also very possible that you have a bad connection either to/from the switch.or where you connected to the original power feed. Could also be the wire you used to connect the switch is faulty. Try another wire for wiring the switch. From your description it sounds like the lights are wired in series (instead of parallel). If lights are wired in series they will all be dim (but if you turn one off they will all go off). Perhaps the bulbs are too large causing a hudge voltage drop because of too much load on the circuit. If that is the case try only one light at a time and it should be bright. Aslo the wiring would become hot to the touch. Check your wiring again and use a volt meter to find the problem. Hope this gives you some ideas for finding the problem. Al
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Electrical heating alloy wire high strength
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100000 m
- Supply Capability:
- 1000000 m/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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