• Copper conductor single core PVC insulated cable 450/750V System 1
  • Copper conductor single core PVC insulated cable 450/750V System 2
  • Copper conductor single core PVC insulated cable 450/750V System 3
  • Copper conductor single core PVC insulated cable 450/750V System 4
  • Copper conductor single core PVC insulated cable 450/750V System 5
  • Copper conductor single core PVC insulated cable 450/750V System 6
Copper conductor single core PVC insulated cable 450/750V

Copper conductor single core PVC insulated cable 450/750V

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Single Conductor Stranded Wire H05V-U, H07V-U, H07V-R, BS6004 6491X, BV, BVR

The cable has the advantage high mechanical strength,good ambient stress resistance,good electrical properties and anti-Chemical corrosion. It applies to electrical power transmission and distribution lines with AC rated Voltage up to 450/750V. The cable is for general purpose, as building wire for power, lighting and control wire to electrical appliances, suitable for use in conduit and for fixed, protected installation.


  • Rated voltage: 300/500V,450/750V

  • Standard applied: IEC 60227, BS 6004, VDE 0281, GB/T 5023, JB/T8734

  • Max. working temp.:70°C,can be 90°C,105°C per requirement

  • Conductor: Class 1/2 plain annealed copper wires, solid or stranded.

  • Insulation: PVC material

  • Cores: 1 cores

  • Cross section area: 0.5~630sqmm

  • Color: Brown, Grey, Black, Blue, Green/Yellow or others on request

  • Packing: 100 meters per roll or as per requirement

  • Certificate: ISO9001,ISO14001,OHSMS18001,CE,CB,CCC,SAA,etc.

  • OEM can be available

  • BDK cable has very good sales over the world, enjoying a very good reputation based on top quality and   most competitive price and best service.

  • Flame retardant or fire resistance or Low Smoking and Halogen free or other property can be available

Product photo


Parameter sheet
H07V-R H07V-U H05V-R H05V-U BY 227IEC01/05 equivalent to VDE 0281 BS6004
Cross section (mm2) Conductor construction (No/mm) Insulation thickness (mm) Overall diameter max (mm) Min insulation
resistance@
70ºC (ohm/Km)
Weight approx (Kg/Km)
1x0.5 1/0.80 0.62.40.0158
1x0.75 7/0.97 0.62.80.01211
1x0.75 1/0.97 0.62.60.01211
1x1.0 7/0.43 0.63
14
1x1.0 1/1.13 0.62.80.01114
1x1.5 7/0.52 0.73.40.0121
1x1.5 1x1.38 0.73.30.01120
1x2.5 7/0.67 0.84.20.00932
1x2.5 1x1.78 0.83.90.0131
1x4 7/0.85 0.84.80.007745
1x4 1/2.25 0.84.40.008545
1x6 7/1.04 0.85.40.006565
1x6 1/2.76 0.84.90.00765
1x10 7/1.35 16.80.0065110
1x10 1/3.57 16.40.007110
1x16 7/1.70 180.005165
1x25 7/2.14 1.29.80.005264
1x35 7/2.52 1.2110.004360
1x50 19/1.78 1.4130.0045490
1x70 19/2.14 1.4150.0035685
1x95 19/2.52 1.617.50.0035946
1x120 37/2.03 1.6190.00321181
1x150 37/2.25 1.8210.00321453
1x185 37/2.52 223.50.00321821
1x240 61/2.24 2.226.50.00322383
1x300 61/2.50 2.429.50.0032983
1x400 61/2.85 2.633.50.00283800


Main manufacturing procedure

1. Copper wire drawing and annealing

2. Copper wire stranding

3. Outer sheath extruding and labeling

4. Spooling


Production  facility



Main Quality Inspection Equipment

Sparker tester,Heating aging Chamber,High resistance machine, Oxygen index equipment, Partial discharge inspection instruments, Fireproof testing device,High-power voltage withstand tester,No-rotor Vulkameter,Pull tester,Analytical balance,Direct current bridge,Plastic tester,Projector, Punch machine,Cross-linked cutting machine,etc.




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Q:i want to wire a single phase 230v 22amp air compressor will # 10 wire work or should i use #8 it is about 120 feet from main panel and what amp breaker should i use?
At 120' if you use #10 you will have a 3.7% voltage drop. The max is 5%, if I was doing this I would bite the bullet and run #8 that way in the future if you needed to replace the compressor with a larger one you will have the capacity. Either way you need to run new wire with a ground so you can ground it properly. Use a 30 amp double pole breaker for this.
Q:I am running a new wire from the electrical panel to my flat panel tv. problem is there is a cold air return in the way. I am a bit worried running it across the bottom, in the basement, of the cold air return, seems like it would be a fire hazard. should I run it through conduit? if so what kind? flexible? metal? rubber? thanks.
I have a cold air return in my basement that is bordered by two floor joists (on the sides), the wooden subfloor on the top, and sheet metal on the bottom. Numerous romex electrical lines run through it (the wood floor joists have been drilled and the wires run through it). This is very common and safe. No conduit is required.
Q:I want to know, which type and size of wire we use for different household appliances in a home ?for e.g: if we want to connect a full size refrigerator/deep freezer/air-conditioner then which type and size of electrical wire we use ?if we have an electrical switch board that has 6 switches and 2 sockets then what type size of wire should be used so that there would be good connection and to avoid burning or heating of the wire and hence the appliance ?thanks a lot for your co-operation
The average home uses # 12 wire. Older knob and tube homes use # 14. If the refrigerator is on its own circuit, # 14 is plenty. Lok at the appliance rating: Watts Volts X amps. A 1200 watt appliance at 120 volts would be 10 amps. A # 14 wire is fused at 15 amps. A # 12 wire is fused at 20 amps.
Q:Do I need to put the foam in the studs where the electrical wiring goes through? This is for Fire codes in MN
The fire code may require it to prevent the spread of a fire or the stoking of a fire from air moving into the stud bay. If it is required by your fire code then do it. Not a lot of work or expense.
Q:I am looking to remodel a mobile home that is 12x60. All the wiring was removed by the previous owner. I need a rough estimate on how much wiring this would take and the type of wiring. I would estimate that it has about 10-15 outlets that are mostly located towards the floor if that if useful info. I really have no idea about this and am completely clueless as to what to look for or use. Any advice would be much appreciated!
If the walls are open to the studs then $200/ box is what I would probably bid for that type of job. So 21 boxes at $200 about $4000 and that does not include special devices or fixtures. Copper wire is expensive now compared to 10 years ago but the main cost is the labor. Mobile homes are a pain to work in.
Q:above the homes?We are thinking of buying a lot in an older area of town (appealing to us), but I've noticed these wires which seem to clutter the view. And I wonder if they present some dangers to consider. Are such wires underground in newer areas?
Overhead wires are ubiquitous. I'm a little intrigued to read a question such as this one because overhead wires are so ubiquitous in the U.S. that I wonder whether you're from around these here parts, stranger. I understand Carmel, CA has all of its utility wires buried, and the whole city is one big tourist visitation site (with entrance fee!) And my hometown has a section with the wires elsewhere, but that's only one section. To your more specific question: I read the original New Yorker article (sometimes I feel as if I'm the only one who has) about a lady in Denver, CO cataloguing and calculating the locations of the Power Pole transformer box in relation to leukemias and other weird brain cancers. She found there was an odd statistical correlation that she suggested SOMEONE ELSE check out and verify or refute. Instead, people went nuts, accused her of everything, and basically refused the one thing she asked for: check it out. As far as I know, no one since has done anything even close to that kind of study . . . but you still get the pregnant woman warning on the heating pad, heh heh heh. Thus, the only importance the overhead wires has to you and yours is if the transformer is behind your house or next door. And that's a maybe.
Q:My home meter access line only 1.5 square copper heart line, is available? Because air conditioning only sleep at night when the open, the other only the refrigerator and 40W lights. Other electrical appliances do not open when sleeping. Thank you! More
Barely able to use, there is no wealth, and now the family should be the smallest line with more than 4 square meters of copper, it is recommended to change the line for the better. 4-6 square
Q:Hi!Here is my situation. My husband installed a dishwasher for me over a year ago. The dish washer plugs into the same outlet my garbage disposal plugs into. The outlet in under my kitchen sink in the back of the cabinet. This outlet is connected to a switch located right behind my sink on the back splash. This is the problem. In order to use the dish washer, I have to unplug the disposal because the disposal will run the whole time if the switch is on. And so every time I need to use the disposal I have to crawl under the sink to plug it in. (VERY annoying) So I have been waiting for my husband to fix this for over a year and he keeps putting it off. So I want to know how I would go about doing this my self? I need to know what supplies I need, fittings? Basically step by step instructions and a materials list Hope someone can help. Thanks in advance!
Sorry there is no easy way to hook this up correctly. I really admire your gumption. To do it properly and not have fires or shorts just call the electrician an chalk it up to the lazy husband. There really should be a separate 20 amp circuit for the dishwasher. This is not something to try and do yourself unless you are really handy. With the way you described the problem there is no breaking off tabs and rewiring simply. The next thing is start feeding the husband with tv dinners, cereal, and disposable silverware. After a couple weeks of this you will probably have the hookup done.-----------------------p.s. What you have is a switched outlet that is powered from the switch for the disposal. There usually will not be any more wires in that outlet to tap off of for your dishwasher hookup. Once again, internet advice is only so good. Get an electrician if the husband won't come through. This particular problem can injure or kill you if the right circumstances are met.
Q:How to use the omnipotent amount of electricity leakage of the wire How to check whether the wire leakage
The bottom of the user's groove and the design of the tail and tail, so that the product will not move firmly at the bottom
Q:I am replacing the exhaust fan in my bathroom. On the joist where I will be attaching the unit, there is a black electrical wire running along the joist. On the old fan, I think the wire either pinned between the joist and the box or sitting on the top of the box. The new fan has a taller height, so I don't think I can let it sit on the box. What should I do?
You have 2 basic chooses. You can move the fan far enough to avoid the wire, or you can move the wire enough to avoid the fan. The shims suggested by other answers sound like the best option.

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