PV CABLE PV1-F

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PV1-F 1*1.5-16MM2

Q:i have a basement stairwell with one light at the bottom, switch at the top. I want to make it a 3-way switch with 2 lights. 2 sections lit from either top or bottom of stairs.How to do? the wiring dates from 1954, but there is plenty of amperage left on the fuse formula. Thanks ahead of time.: Hmmmmmmmmm 1954. Is it in pipe or romex or BX(armor cable?) If in pipe, it is most probably cloth and rubber covering. High flamable and very smoky when burned. The more you move it around , the greater the risk of shorting. If you really want to try then use two wires of the same color for runners between the switches, and one wire for hot. take these to the junction you have for the new switch and install. Obviously the odd color goes on the odd color screw. The first switch should be connected with the runners on the same color screws and the wire to the light goes on the odd color. Oh yea, before you start, have a fire extinguisher and an ambulance nearby. Just kidding.

Q:I have an old house (built in 1962) and after testing all of my outlets, have confirmed that none of them are grounded. The house is made of brick, so it would be extremely expensive to run new circuits through the house. I really only need 1 or 2 outlets to be grounded so that I can protect my expensive equipment from damage. So what I wanted to know is if I could buy a spool of 10 gauge solid copper core insulated grounding wire, drill a hole through the brick behind the outlet, connect to the outlet and run the other end of the wire around the outside of the house to the main box. Would that be safe? Would it hold up to power spikes?: Yes you can do that but you don't have to go to the box if you have metal cold water pipe. If the pipe is plastic then yes but you cpuld drive a metal stake into the ground 6 feet and ground to it. you can get grounding stakes at a hardware store or electrical supply so find out which is cheaper wire or stake. on the wire it doesn't have to be solid just #10 and daisy chain it. go from the farthest box outside to the scond box then to the Elecrtical supply. I assume you have a slab floor if not go to the basement and across to the box or attic to the box. An alternate solution is to just change the sockets and don't ground them. it is not really necessary most equipment has planned for an ingrounded socket. you change the socket so it will plug in without cutting off the ground pin. For GFI it is necessary to ground it(kitchen and bathroom). different states have different codes.

Q:i want to run some electrical wire through a wall, how do i do that with out breakng the sheetrock, there is already conduit running in that section.: if you want to run it through the conduit you have to get a snake to fish the wire through the conduit.

Q:I have two side-by-side outlets. One does not work at all. I've checked all the connections and cannot get it to work.I noticed that the adjacent box has a black and white wire connected while the error box only had a red and white wire going to the box. Is this right? When I test the wires going into the box, there is no voltage whatsoever.: The red is most likely serving as the 'hot' or black wire. If there is no voltage at the red wire, you need to trace the source and find out why.

Q:Hello, we have several plugs that have no ground wire. The electrical wire for most of those plus seem to be running through the ceiling (not accessible that I know of). There is a basement and it looks like the plugs that have been grounded are connected to a cold-water pipe. We would like to tap in a junction box in the basement, and run a new wire (that includes ground) to a non-grounded receptacle by drilling a hole through the floor. Then, run the wire externally on the wall, drill another hole right below the receptacle cover to insert the wire inside and make the connection.Is the external wire against code? Does it have to be hidden inside a wall?: No and no. What does have to be inplace is a conduit for outside wiring paths. Specific grade wires must be fed through specific grade conduit to meet most wiring minimal codes.It can take many small pieces of conduit to form an acceptable path. Don't join to another live circuit at the receptacle. This retrofit must be a single dedicated circuit that begins with a properly sized thermal breaker switch. The 'junction box' you wish to tap must have thermal breaker capacity for expansion. If not replace this box with one that does. The idea behind this way forward is to not create a fire hazzard.Many fires start with ignorance-study up.

Q:I need to know where the park and ILL wires go on the stock stereo. I am trying to install a kenwood cd player and I have thoses extra and dont know where to put it: Here is the original wiring info for that vehicle and if you've any problems just give me the info that came with your new system and tell me what exactly is the wiring problem if any and I'll gladly help you. Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Red/Blue Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Red/White Car Radio Ground Wire: Chassis Car Radio Illumination Wire: Black/Yellow Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Orange Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Orange Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Violet/White Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Yellow Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Red Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/White Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Red Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way I've installed countless stereos etc and doing automotive electrical troubling etc for many years now.

Q:a.) Choose a wire to carry a maxium of 5A from a solar panel to the batteries 25ft away.What would the wire resistance and voltage drop be in question a.) .?: depends on how much voltage drop you want to allow. For a solar panel, that is probably well less than 1 volt, as any drop is totally wasted. Say 0.5 volts? That means a resistance of less than 0.5v/5 amps 0.1Ω. for 50 ft, look resistance up in wire tables. #14 is 2.5Ω/1000 ft, so that is 0.25Ω per 100 ft or 0.12Ω per 50 ft. You can use that, or go with #12, which is 1.6Ω/1000 ft or 0.08Ω for 50 ft. with #12, you will lose I?R 25*0.08 2 watts. .

Q:I am moving a sub panel from one position to another but the feed wires #2 are not long enough to reach new panel so i want to know if I can make a j box and splice them and what would i use as wire nuts are to small.: Yes you can extend you feeds if done properly. You should make sure your splice is done inside a box. The is true to any electrical splice in your home. 1. Make sure you use the same size cabling of you existing feeders. 2. Use split bolt connectors to connect the existing feeders to your new run. 3. Use both friction tape and electrical tape to ensure your splices are electrically tight. In place of wire nuts you will use split bolt connectors. It IS possible to extend your service. Don't let anyone tell you any different. It is perfectly safe. Whether or not it conforms to you local code is questionable. As long as your not pulling a permit. nobody care. Just let your local electrical supply house what your up to. They will supply you with correct split bolts for your size wiring. Good luck

Q:i have a 1981 honda express (nc50)and i'm trying to read the wiring diagram: This icon looks like an SCR, a silicon-controlled rectifier.

Q:12V DC, 16A current to use the number of flat wire?: If the cable is shorter about 1 meter, then 2.5 pure copper wire is enough, long to use 4 square

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