• PV CABLE PV1-F System 1
PV CABLE PV1-F

PV CABLE PV1-F

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PV1-F 1*1.5-16MM2  

Q: Bvvb 300 / 500V is the number of square wires Bvvb300 / 500V is the number of square wires
VV: Copper core PVC insulated PVC sheathed power cable Cable for power distribution KVV: Copper core PVC insulated PVC sheathed control cable Control cable KVVP: Copper core Polyvinyl chloride insulated polychlorinated chlorine Ethylene sheathed shielded control cable that is shielded control cable
Q: I have received formal training on electrical wiring, but do not have the certifications to prove that I can do the wiring in a safe manner with the law in mind. I'm very conscious when it comes to working with the grids.
I had formal training with my dad's friend who is a licenced technician.
Q: electrical wire
depends on your amps but i wouldnt push 2 amps cuz thats pretty tiny wire try and get some 4 ga or higher wire for a noticeable difference.
Q: I bought an air conditioner that has a 15a 240 vac plug (NEMA 6-15, I believe - 2 horizontal prongs above the ground) but my air conditioner wall outlet is a 20a 125 vac (NEMA 5-20, I believe - one vertical prong and one that looks like a sideways T above the ground). I have also ascertained that this outlet has its own circuit at the breaker box. I guess I am just curious how big of a procedure it would be to get the outlet changed, as I live in a big apartment building and am hoping it would not involve anything outside of my own apartment - and also that it is cost effective vs. just selling the air conditioner at a loss and buying a different one.
Jeff D is correct. If you have a dedicated circuit in the unit now, and you have the physical space for the additional breaker, then it's maybe a 1 hour job for a service electrician to make the change. When you contact the electrician, tell them the size of the breaker needed and the voltage, also brand and style/model of the panel. Square D is a common brand of good to high quality, that may be a QO, QOB, MO, or HOM, different brands have different model and abbreviations. This information in advance can save several hours of service time.
Q: I notice that in Dallas, TX a great deal of birds sit at very specific intersections such as Plano Rd and Beltline in Richardson. Not being a native of Texas, I can't recall seeing this type of activity (perhaps the birds are just larger here like everything else!). They sit on the wires, atop trees but only on certain corners. And of course they sing like crazy. Anybody know why?
Birds don't only sit on wires, but on almost everything . But on the electricity wire, we see them very clearly and that seems very unusual to us, but it isn't. For them it's just another (handy!) place to sit on.
Q: I have a box in my bathroom with 2 light switches. I'm trying to replace one light switch with a light switch + outlet. The existing switch has a black (hot) wire and a black output to the light fixture. I need to add a common/neutral/white wire to the new switch which will also have a GFCI 120v outlet. In the box there are 4 white wires connected together with one of those 4-plug wire connectors. I have always used twist-caps before to connect 3 wires at most. I am not familiar with these plug-in type connectors. It looks like those plugs are one-way / insert only / no removal. I believe I need to tap into that with a 5th white wire, but there are no open slots in the plug connector. What should I do?
In my opinion, these things Quik-Conns, are trouble. The safest, best way out of this is to call a pro. The reason why is that the NEC does not allow a GFCI receptacle on with a lighting circuit. If you have a stack switch/GFCI receptacle, you will notice that there wires coming from the switch part while the GFCI has screw terminals. This is so they shall be kept separate. Good luck in all you do and may God bless. EDIT: The only acceptable way to remove wires from them is to cut them loose. If you pull, tug or jerk them out, you will actually loosen the tabs that make contact, thus causing a loose connection which leads to them overheating. Heat cause fire. Get the point? If you have to do this, Cut them. Strip 1-1/4 of insulation off of the four existing wires and 1 pig-tail. Twist all 5 wires together, cutting off the excess. Install a Big Blue wire-nut. I advise against doing it this way, as it will not meet the National Electrical Code, and insurance companies look for ANYTHING to deny a claim.
Q: 30kw how much cable and switch to use
30kw general voltage is three-phase 380V, I = P / U / 1.732 = 30 * 1000/380 / 1.732 = 45.6A. Generally take about 1.3 times, 45.6 * 1.3 = 59.28A, so you can take more than 60A calibration value of the circuit breaker. If the distance is not far, the cable can take 25 square copper cable. If the voltage is not three-phase 380V, then ask, and then help you calculate.
Q: My family is this year's new cover of the color steel room, used in the old house when they are relatively thin wires, electricity is very normal every month, but a move to a new house when the electricity that month A bit too much, or the same electricity habits or those appliances how the monthly electricity will be so much? Where is the place where there is leakage and our home with a rough relationship between the wire? Just try to use a pen, and some places are 12v some places did not show, please know how to help my friends how to analyze ah? Thank you! More
This feeling a bit 2 ah. Wire tube is a plastic pipe, plastic pipe is not necessarily used as a wire tube ah.
Q: I am having a problem with the wiring in my basement. What I am doing: I wired a new outlet box off of an old outlet box. From the new outlet box, I then wired a switch for a new light fixture. So the wiring goes; fuse box, outlet box, outlet box, switch, light. Well, I blew the fuse once I turned the new light on. (BTW, I had a buddy stop at lowes to pick me up a switch and he returned with a 3-way switch). I only need it to operate as a 2-way which I have figured out how to do from the internet. My question is, while testing the outlet boxes and switch after I blew the fuse, I found the I have continuity between the common and hot wire. Mind you the fuse has been removed. So how can I have continuity between the common and hot wires? Thank you.
With respect, you have mis-wired somewhere. Old Outlet Box is A New Outlet Box is B Switch Box is C Light is D A (hot)--------------------------- B (hot) ------------------------------------ C / --------------- D (hot) A (neutral/common)-------- B (neutral) ---------------------------------------- D (neutral) A (ground) -------------------- B (ground)------------------------------ C (ground)------- D (ground) As to a 3-way switch, in the switch box, the hot goes to the copper-colored screw, the leg to the light goes to either of the brass-colored screws. The neutral goes straight through the switch-box. Only the HOT gets switched. The ground is connected to all three new devices but is continuous. If this is not crystal-clear, call an electrician.
Q: I built a 30x30 workshop and have a few electrical questions.What amp size service panel will I need?Will have 8 120v receptacles and do they all need separate 20 amp breakers with #12 wire?Will have 2 240v receptacles, air compressor and a stick welder, what size wire and circuit breakers for those two components?Will have 8 fluorescent lights with 54w bulbs, How many lights can be on the same 15amp circuit with #14 wire?
Need more detail for a good answer. What is the amp rating of the welder and air compressor? Also, will any of the 120 volt outlets be dedicated to single pieces of machinery, particularly high ampacity tools? if you are going to have any of them feed pieces of equipment (like a lathe or drill press for example) that outlet should be on it's own circuit. if these are just outlets for portable tools like drill motors or a skilsaw, you could have all of them on one circuit, technically. But I would split it between at least two circuits so if you overload one the other stays hot. Same with the lighting, you could put 8 two lamp fluorescents (I presume you are planning to use 2-lamp 8' fixtures with F54T8 lamps) on a single 20 amp circuit but I would suggest two 15 amp instead, That way you can turn half or all of them on for efficiency. Can't give you service size without knowing the ratings on your equipment. A 60 amp subpanel is usually more than enough for a shop that size. You also didn't mention other potential loads like overhead door motor, electric water heat for shop sink, echaust fans or electrically powered heating units. Have you accounted for everything?

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