Copper-based low resistance heating alloy wire

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100000 m

Supply Capability:: 1000000 m/month

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Thermocouple Wire

A Thermocouple is a temperature measuring device consisting of two conductors of dissimilar metals or alloys that are connected only at the ends. When the ends are at different temperatures a small voltage is produced in the wire that can be related directly to the temperature difference between the ends. If the temperature at one end is known, the temperature at the other end can be determined.

Application:

Thermocouple wire or extension grade wire is recommended to be used to connect thermocouples to the sensing or control instrumentation. The conditions of measurement determine the type of thermocouple wire and insulation to be used. Temperature range, environment, insulation requirements, response, and service life should be considered.

What do we have?

Thermocouple wire ( extension/compensation/compensating):

Type: K, T, N, E, J, L, B, R, S

Insulation or jacket: PVC, Telflon, PFA; Silicon rubber, Fiberglass, Quartz Fibre.

Sheild: Tin-coated copper braid/Stainless steel braid sheild.

Calibration Type Characteristics

Type J (Iron vs Constantan) is used in vacuum, oxidizing, inert or reducing atmospheres. Iron element oxidizes rapidly at temperatures exceeding 1000ºF (538ºC), and therefore heavier gauge wire is recommended for longer life at these temperatures.

Type K (CHROMELvs ALUMEL) is used in oxidizing, inert or dry reducing atmospheres. Exposure to vacuum limited to short time periods. Must be protected from sulfurous and marginally oxidizing atmospheres. Reliable and accurate at high temperatures.

Type T (Copper vs Constantan) is used for service in oxidizing, inert or reducing atmospheres or in vacuum. It is highly resistant to corrosion from atmospheric moisture and condensation and exhibits high stability at low temperatures; it is the only type with limits of error guaranteed for cryogenic temperatures.

Type E (CHROMELvs Constantan) may be used in oxidizing, inert or dry reducing atmospheres, or for short periods of time under vacuum. Must be protected from sulfurous and marginally oxidizing atmospheres. Produces the highest EMF per degree of any standardized thermocouple.

Type N (Nicrosilvs Nisil) is used in oxidizing, inert or dry reducing atmospheres. Must be protected from sulfurous atmospheres. Very reliable and accurate at high temperatures.

Teflon Insulated Thermocouple Wire

Do you provide free samples?
Yes, we can provide a free sample for testing, If we have sample in stock, The quantity based on the material type, The buyer should bear all the shipping costs.

Please feel free to send us a inquiry and we are looking forward to cooperating with you!

Before you send us a inquiry, please confirm the following information

1. Alloy grade

2. Dimensions of the alloys

3. Surface requirements

4. Size tolerance requirement

5. Quantities

6. Package request

7. Specific end use

8. Other information that may be useful in supplying the most suitable products

Color code & initial calibration tolerances for thermocouple wire:
Thermocouple Type		ANSI Color Code		Initial Calibration Tolerances
Wire Alloys	Calibration	+/-	Overall	Temperature Range	Standard	Special
		Conductor			Limits	Limits
CHROMEL(+) vs.	K	Yellow/Red	Brown	-200° C to -110° C	± 2%	± 1.1° C
ALUMEL(-)				-110° C to 0° C	± 2.2° C	± . 4%
				0° C to +285° C	± 2.2° C

FB-FB-SSB Physical Properties
Characteristics
Specific Gravity	Insulation	Overall
Tensile Strength; psi (min)	2.54	2.54
Elongation; %(min)	250, 000 at 1000& deg; F(537° C )	250, 000 at 1000& deg; F(537° C )
Minimum Bend Radius	4.8	4.8
Abrasion Resistance	5x O. D.	10x O. D.
Cut Through Resistance	Good	Good
Moisture Resistance	Very Good	Excellent
Solder Iron Resistance	Good	Good
Service Temperature	Excellent	Excellent
Flame Test	260° C continuous 343° C single exposure	260° C continuous 537° C
Flame Test	260° C continuous 343° C single exposure	single exposure
	Non-flammable	Non-flammable

Thermocouple variety and index		Measurement range C
Variety	Index	Measurement range C
PtRh30-PtRh6	B	600~1700
PtRh13-Pt	R	0~1600
PtRh10-Pt	S	0~1600
NiCr-NiSi	K	-200~1300
NiCr-CuNi (constantan)	E	-200~900
Fe-CuNi (constantan)	J	-40~750
Cu-CuNi (constantan)	T	-200~350
NiCrSi-NiSi	N	-200~1300
NiCr-AuFe0.07	NiCr-AuFe0.07	-270~0

Q:I like this Christian girl and I want to seduce her but I heard that they have electrical underwear: no they keep a heavy bible in a wooden case in their purse and just hit you over the head with it screaming get back tempter of the devil

Q:How are they wired up, and how do they work, thanks.: If you are talking about a feed meaning a home run from the panel then the feed usually goes to the light and drops to the switch and can pick up a couple of recepticles in the wall also. The national electrical code allows for a white to switch hot if it is marked on both ends so you can use a two wire run. If you run from the panel to the switch box then you will have a hot switched for the light, one for the hot recepticles and a neutral for all. Keep in mind the green is allways used and only used for a bond and nothing else.That gives you a 3 wire and a bond going from the small switch box to the larger light box in the cieling, Which will work but is harder to follow years later if you have problems. If you run from the panel to the cieling box it is easy to locate and trouble shoot all wires as everything goes to that box. Most switches are single pole and require 2 wires and it is pretty much a in and out deal so that is simple enough but if it is a 3 way ( or switched at 2 places ) you have to use 3 way switches, If you want to switch from 3 places or more then you have to use 2 - 3 way and the rest 4 way. I realize I am not telling you all you have to know but electricity is not for people who dont know what they are doing. You can get shocked and others can get hurt or the house could burn down with you sleeping in it so I suggest you get out the Home Depot do it yourself books or go to the library and learn what and the whys of electricity. I hope what I have told you gets you to see that it takes some home work to make it safe and understandable.

Q:Hello! I have two exact same porch lights. I was moving one lamp to test location #2 (the other light turned out to be bad, just wanted to make sure power was ok) and I thought I wrote down which wires from the wall (outside on condo patio) went into the wires on the lamp but now I see I have FOUR wires coming from the walland only three for the lamp.I seem to have two white wires, or at least I cannot see any color outside of the grey paint from when the building was painted. The third is black and the last is green and I can see the color of those wires and I am sure they were connected to the ground and the power. Now, finally my question.do those two white wired go together with the white wire from the lamp? Please email me if you need further explanation or a picture of the wiring, Thank you so much for your help! I thought I had my bases covered but I dropped the ball!!: Since you have 2 porch lights - the power or 120v is normally connected to the white and black wires, The green wire is ground. If you have 2 white wires they should be connected together. When connecting the fixture to the wires - white to white - black to black - green to green or to the metal housing of the fixture. Power should be shut off while connecting the wires. Hope this helps.

Q:For industrial single-phase circuits in China (one 220V hot wire + one neutral wire), do you use normal one-pole breakers for isolation of just the hot conductor, or do they require two-pole breakers so that both hot wire and neutral wire are isolated from load at the 2-pole breaker? I heard rumor they want both wires isolated for single-phase.: YES, it cuts out both lines from its simple breaker panel. Because for some reason ,in some area,its neutral was not really Zero volt and has perhaps 50V between Earth ground and neutral.

Q:Going by the chart of wire sizes and how many amps different sizes can handle, here's my question. I see a # 10 guage wire can hold 30-35amps. However, can it hold more amps if it were being used for the neutral?: No, and the wire size must always be sized larger than the circuit breaker.

Q:How about the decoration wiring charges, about how much?: If it is DV machine, SONY camera are called ilink interface, the 1394 line (also called FireWire, buy the card when the card), connected to the computer with a 1394 interface can be. If it is H Geng ridge bluntly plaster Huan lan Ili camera, with the video line of the collection. Need to buy a video line with the input function of the video capture card. If there is no other video editing software, XP comes with WindowsMovieMaker can also be competent. I hope to help you.

Q:I have an electrical switch that was faulty so I'm in the process of replacing it. I have a garage door opener that is plugged into an outlet on the garage ceiling that needs power all the time and a light that needs to be on a switch, on the same circuit. This doesn't seem possible to me but it's how it was wired previously. Unfortunately, I've already tossed the old switch thinking, “Oh, I'll just figure it out”. I have a tan wire, a white wire, and a black wire available I also have a 2-way and 3-way switch available.: Don't know where you live (country) but in N.A. the white will be common and the tan(sometimes red) and black are power the white will go to both the light and the receptacle-whatever color (tan or black) is in the receptacle will be constant power-and the other should come from the switch to the light

Q:I am in need of electrical wire at the moment, and i found some old headphones. Would the wire be salvageable to transport small amounts of energy (in a basic device, nothing fancy)?: Generally, the answer is NO. This is because the headphone wire insulation voltage rating is normally not high enough. However, if the headphone wire has a voltage rating printed on the insulation, that is equal or greater than the voltage of the circuit you want to use this wire for, it will be OK. If the wire has the type, such as TH, THW, THWN or something similar, you can look on the internet to find the voltage rating of that type wire. TexMav

Q:I obviously know that one is one and one is the other, but if you were on the street and saw a utility pole. How could You distinguish one to the other?: Electrical cable is meant to carry power, lots of it. It doesn't matter so much as it can get interfered with, but does matter that it goes only to the right places, and not the wrong ones, which is why power cables use big insulators, and big connectors, and use big cables going to homes and businesses. Yes, they are what is higher on the telephone, because higher voltages require more separation from the people below. I will add, that for the most part, everybody gets the same power. What makes it theirs is the electric meter on the side of the house or store, or sometimes on a pole to the home. For communications, the name is getting the signal where it needs to be, with as little interference or loss. With that no external insulators are used. For traditional copper telephone lines, and to a degree fiber optics, a whole number of individual wires are in a cable. Each pair of wires is twisted to not interfere with others and reject outside noise, and connect with other cables or service drops with small connectors. Cable TV is signal, but because of frequency is on a coax. It id usually smaller than telephone feeders. It has cast aluminum boxes on it, for amplifiers, power injectors (which have a box which connects to the power lines on a pole), and taps to which customer drops connect.

Q:I have a halogen heater and one of the bulbs in it started flickering so I opened it up disconnected that bulb and found the casing around one of the wires connecting to it was burned off. So I have this exposed wire which is not connected to anything and was thinking about just covering it with duct tape and using the heater again. Now im not stupid and everything about this to me sounds like a bad idea but would like to get a second opinion on exactly how dangerous it would be, it would only be temporary until I got a new heater.: Stop and think about it for a minute dude. Do you really think the heater was manufactured with a burnt wire not connected to anything. The wire got hot and over time burnt off. Either find out where it connects and splice in a new wire or throw the heater away before it burns down your home and maybe you with it! DUCT tape totally sucks for something like this, it will just make the problem worse if anything!

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