• 0.6/1kv 2core XLPE Insulated Steel Tape Armoured PVC Sheathed Electrical Power Cable System 1
  • 0.6/1kv 2core XLPE Insulated Steel Tape Armoured PVC Sheathed Electrical Power Cable System 2
  • 0.6/1kv 2core XLPE Insulated Steel Tape Armoured PVC Sheathed Electrical Power Cable System 3
  • 0.6/1kv 2core XLPE Insulated Steel Tape Armoured PVC Sheathed Electrical Power Cable System 4
0.6/1kv 2core XLPE Insulated Steel Tape Armoured PVC Sheathed Electrical Power Cable

0.6/1kv 2core XLPE Insulated Steel Tape Armoured PVC Sheathed Electrical Power Cable

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
20000 m/month

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0.6/1kv 2core XLPE Insulated Steel tape Armoured PVC Sheathed Electrical Power Cable 

 

 

LOW VOLTAGE   0.6/1KV 

2C YJV  YJLV

This cable is suitable for use in fixed installation with rated voltage 0.6/1 kv Electricity transmission and distribution lines. Can be use  in both indoor and outdoor.

For use in laying indoors, in tunnels, in underground ducts, in conduits or buried directly. Can withstand mechanical damage but couldn't withstand pull force.

.

DESIGN

Conductor:plain annealed electrolytic copper(Hard drawn aluminum available)

Insulation: XLPE

Filler: PP rope/tape

Wrap Tape: Non-woven fabrics

Bedding: PVC

Armour: steel tape armoured

Outer sheath: PVC

Color: Black

(  Note: XLPE: crosslinked polyethylene,  PP: polypropylene,  PVC:  Polyvinyl chloride  )

 

CHARACTERISTICS

  1. Electrolytic conductor, class 2  (Circular compacted copper/ aluminum)

  2. Max. temperature of conductor for long-term continious woking: <=90ºC

  3. Max. working temperature in case of short-circuit: <=250ºC ( max. time 5s ) 

  4. Meter by meter marking

  5. Chemical and oil resistance: excellent

  6. Abrasion resistance: excellent

  7. Flame retardant

Installation Underground

  1. Circumstance temperature when installation: >=0 ºC

  2. Minimum bending radius:

    Single-core cable: 20(D+d)±5%(mm)

    Multi-core cable: 15(D+d)±5%(mm)

    ( Note: D: Actual external diameter of cable,   d: Actual external diameter of conductor )

  3. The cable could be laid without the limit of  altitude difference

Installation in the Air

  1. The center distanceof paralledl laying single-core cables: 

    cross sectional ares<=185mm2: 2*Dmm (D: diameter of cable)

    cross sectional ares<=240mm2:  90mm

  2. Circumstance temperature: 40  ºC

Picture

Q: I will be installing a new outdoor GFCI outlet. I plan to use PVC conduit (UF rated) to run 12g wire for 11 ft. Will it meet electrical standards if I don't bury the PVC conduit? It will run on top of cement.
that all depends on whether you are talking about the side of your building or like over a trafficked area. in the area with traffic, as a sidewalk or driveway no it must meet burial depth requirements of the NEC. if it is on the house the national electric code says you don't have to bury it but as soon as it is below grade level you must follow burial depth requirements. Also note that in use weather proof covers are required for outlets outside; no more of the swinging door that stay open when a plug is in. I hope this helps if you have q's please IM
Q: I have removed all the plaster and lath from a wall that has two windows in it. The wall is in my study and the other side of the wall is an exterior wall on my porch. It now has one electrical outlet between the two windows. That electrical outlet also has an outdoor outlet on the other side of the wallwired to it. Before I insulate and wallboard the wall I would like to remove the single outlet, keep the exterior outlet and wire two outlets into the wall, one under each window.My previous wiring experience is with wiring lighting fixtures.Any help would be much appreciated and thank you in advance for your help.
this will be easy to do. first you should count the number of outlets on that circuit. you have to make sure that the addition of this one receptacle will be within the range of the existing breaker. should you need to change the breaker to a higher rated one i Strongly recommend using a licensed electrician. from the existing hole where the receptacle is between the windows install a wall box to make the connections in. pull the hot wire from this wall box to feed the receptacle on the left. wire up one side of the plug. from the other side of that plug go back to the wall box and wire up the outdoor plug. piggyback off the outdoor plug and wire up the plug on the right side of the room. maker sure the outdoor plug is GFIC rated and has a rain tight enclosure. hope this helps.
Q: I have a halogen heater and one of the bulbs in it started flickering so I opened it up disconnected that bulb and found the casing around one of the wires connecting to it was burned off. So I have this exposed wire which is not connected to anything and was thinking about just covering it with duct tape and using the heater again. Now im not stupid and everything about this to me sounds like a bad idea but would like to get a second opinion on exactly how dangerous it would be, it would only be temporary until I got a new heater.
Where is the other end of that exposed wire connected to? Can you just cut it off clean with side cutters (wire cutters)? The wiring in the heater has a high temperature insulation rating but not general purpose duct tape. It will be a fire hazard. If you're going to get a new heater then just remove the bad wire for now.
Q: I want to install two separate outdoor lights. How do I do that from one wire? How can I make one wire into two wires and what would I need? Thanks.
You need 2 wires a positiv and ground. You need a complete circut. Make sure the power is off and strip the line to see if you have 2 wires inside. if not then seek good help otherwise you might just burn your flat down
Q: Please guess a riddle: a beautiful ride on the wire. (Hit a plant) Rural visible
FireWire is red, the blue line is blue. Ground is yellow and green. Three-phase socket, usually on the left and right to the right fire. Usually we will phase the current phase difference of 120 degrees wire called FireWire. Three-phase power of the three tail together called "zero line". The ground wire is the line connecting the earth to the earth.
Q: I believe that someone done this to be intentionally, and it did infact catch on fire. The two wire were spliced together and it lay across my heating vent. Mind you the wire laying across the heater never melted it was just off the heater were it caught afire. I was thinking that something was pasted or pored on the wire to make sure that it would catch, something like asatone or a paint product? Here are some of the numbers and letters that were on the wire AWM 2468 VW-1 60 degree 300V AWG24 H.W.G. C. Please and Thankyou Im just looking for answers.
It's possible for the wires to catch fire if there was a bad connection. When you have a connection it gets warm naturallyIf the wires aren't connected correctly the wires can get hotter because of the way the electricity is traveling and catch on fire.
Q: I am trying to install new electrical cooking controls into my kiln. the part is robert shaw inf-240-31b, or 5501-473. I drew a diagram of how it was attached to the wiring inside the kiln before i took it apart, but now that i have the new controls, and i am installing them, i realized that i left something out of my diagram. at the top of the control, there are three prongs sticking out. the first is labeled P, the second, L1, and the third, L2. however, when I drew my diagram, i only drew two prongs sticking out at the top, and did not label them in my sketch. there are two wires that need to be connected to the prongs. which two do I connect to the wires? and what to P, L1, and L2 represent?
I am assuming that kiln uses 240 volts because it is high power. If instead it is gas fired then you are talking 120 volts just to safely open and close that gas valve. For 240 volts, L1 and L2 are typically the two live wires. For 120 volts L1 is usually the live wire and L2 usually the neutral. The third one must be a ground to keep you from getting a shock if live wires touch any metal on the outside of the control. Usually it does not make any difference for 240 volts where you connect L1 and L2. For 120 volts you need to get the live wire to the right place. For the 240 volts there is probably a switch symbol on the diagram that opens both wires for shutoff. For the 120 volts the switch is only in one of the wires and that is the L1 live one. If you are in doubt try phoning tech support at Robert-Shaw.
Q: What is the difference between summer and winter? why? If you set up a wire in the summer should pay attention to what
There are three possibilities: . the power is broken. . the motherboard has a capacitor is broken, to the maintenance department to replace, very cheap. . the computer environment in a low temperature state.
Q: can please any one let me know the meaning of db written on electrical wires
Db In Electrical Terms
Q: As we know the earth wire takes no current or just a small amount of leakages current, why we should use same size as live or neutral wire in a power system??
Because if something goes wrong (ie. a short) the Earth wire will need to be able transmit as much electricity as the live wires. If a thinner wire was used, it would probably melt if this happened, which would remove the earth connection, and possibly burn down the house.

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