• Copper stranded PVC Insulated electrical wire System 1
  • Copper stranded PVC Insulated electrical wire System 2
Copper stranded PVC Insulated electrical wire

Copper stranded PVC Insulated electrical wire

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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin: Henan, China (Mainland)


  • Type:
    InsulatedModel Number:
    227 IEC01(BV),BLV,BVR,BVVB,BLVVB,227 IEC05(BV),227 IEC07(BV-90)

  • Application: indoor,electric household appliances,instrument

  • Conductor Material: Copper

  • Conductor Type: Stranded

  • Insulation Material: PVC

  • core: 1,2,3

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:Packing in coils,wooden drum, or as your request
Delivery Detail:Two weeks

Specifications

electrical wire
1) high quality and low price
2)15 years professional experience
3)Best service

Copper stranded PVC Insulated electrical wire

1. The long-time permissible operation temperture of electrical wire  shall not be higher than 70oC,BV-90 shall not be higher than 90oC.

2. The ambient temperature shall not be lower than 0 o C.

3. Permissible bending radius(r): unarmoured cable:r≥6D;(D: outer diameter of the cable); armoured or copper-tape screened cable:r≥12D;shielded flexible cable:r≥6D

Type

Name

Laying place and requirement

Long term working Temperature0C

ACrated voltage

Nominal Section (mm2

227IEC01(BV)

227IEC05 (BV)

BLV

Copper conductor PVC insulated wires

Aluminum conductor PVC insulated wires

Fixed laid indoors

Conduit etc.

70

450/750

300/500

450/750

1.5......185

0.5......1

2.5......185

227IEC07(BV-90)

Heat resistant copper conductor PVC insulated wire at 90 0C

Mainly be laid at the places of high temperature environment and can be laid indoors ,conduits.

90

300/500

0.5......2.5

BVR

Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible cable

Be for laying permanent place where flexible required.

 

70

450/750

2.5......150

BLVV

Aluminum conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round wires

Fixed laid, fit for the places with high mechanical protection and moisture place, can be laid in the air or underground.

70

BVVB

Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed flat wires

300/500

1......10

BLVVB

Aluminum conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed flat wires

300/500

2.5......10

227IEC02(RV)

227IEC06(RV)

Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible connector wire

Mainly used at middle and light style moving electronics, home appliances, power and lighting and the places where flexible required

70

450/750

300/500

1.5......240

0.3......1

227IEC42(RVB)

Copper conductor PVC insulated flat flexible connector wire

300/300

0.3......1.5

RVS

Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible twisting connector wire

300/300

0.3......1.5

227IEC52(RVV)

227IEC53(RVV)

Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round flexible connector wire

300/300

300/500

0.5......6

0.3......4

227IEC08(RV-90)

Cu conductor heat resistant PVC insulated flexible connector wire at 90 0C

Mainly used at the places where heat resistance is required

               

90          

300/500

0.5...


Q: Wire inside the two lines, red and black, black line is the line of fire or zero line ah?
Standby state of course can not see, you have to look at the set-top box standby or TV standby, the standby state to eliminate on the line.
Q: As the new electric heater wire is too short, can not receive the original 16A socket, so want to wire long, I ask you: 1. How to make a long time can be relatively safe? (Seeking connection method) 2. In the original socket plus What kind of dragline board? (Please recommend the brand and model) 3. Which method is better? Thank you! More
It is best to change the line, not the same line with the same line after the hook and then solder with solder welding. Plus the mobile outlet, then the bull is better. Welding wiring is better
Q: I am experiencing a problem with electrical wiring. I was trying to change a lightswitch to a duplex lightswitch/outlet. I could only get the outlet to work, not the lightswitch part. So I deceided to switch back to my original lightswitch (that originally worked just fine) because I would have to wait for someone who knows more to help me with the duplex. Now the lightswitch doesn't work either. What could have happend to cause this and how do I fix this?
Did i get you right , that what you needed is a light switch and an extra outlet? the power line for a light switch, one passing thru the switch then connected to the light, while the other, live one is connected directly to your light or receptacles, when you switch the light the line that pass thru you switch is powered giving you a positive and negative power. to light your lamp. Now when you installed an additional outlet, you must connect the two negative and positive wire to your outlet. See to it that the line connected to your receptacles is not altered but connected to one terminal of your outlet say as the positive line,while the other line the negative line, connected to your outlet should extend thru your switch then from switch this line shall be connected to your receptacle to complete the connection. I presumed that you know how to connect the wire to your switch. This is only a single live wire, cut off into two, one connected to he upper terminal of your switch and the one one connected to lower terminal then this line is connected to the terminal of your receptacle to complete the cycle. Check that even if your light is off, your outlet must be energised if it is not, then review your connection The failure of your light switch might be due to loose connection or parts of it isn't working anymore that you need to change it to new one.
Q: The socket has yellow and blue gray three colors, which is the line of fire? Which is the zero line? Which is the ground?
Gray is the line of fire yellow is the blue line is zero line
Q: I understand how to connect wires together. Black to black and white to white. I have done several electrical jobs in my own home with success. However I am trying to connect my range hood to a main power supply and have been unsuccessful several times. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. In fact, I have undercabinet lights run to the same power supply and they work just fine. I know I am not overloading because I have even disconnected my lights and just tried the range hood. Any advice?
Check the circuit print for another switching device, like a damper control or open/closed venting switch. Does it have a pilot light (red) (white) ? It may be controlled by supervisory circuit ?
Q: I am looking to remodel a mobile home that is 12x60. All the wiring was removed by the previous owner. I need a rough estimate on how much wiring this would take and the type of wiring. I would estimate that it has about 10-15 outlets that are mostly located towards the floor if that if useful info. I really have no idea about this and am completely clueless as to what to look for or use. Any advice would be much appreciated!
If the walls are open to the studs then $200/ box is what I would probably bid for that type of job. So 21 boxes at $200 about $4000 and that does not include special devices or fixtures. Copper wire is expensive now compared to 10 years ago but the main cost is the labor. Mobile homes are a pain to work in.
Q: I know that the color codes tell you whether its neutral and other purposes, but do i need to find the same colored wire to extend one, or do i need the same one? And are they just for safety purposes?
In the UK, it is a common misunderstanding that red is always live, and black or blue is neutral. While it is rare for a red wire to be used as a neutral, it is possible. And because twin and earth cables are so cheap, they are often used between ceiling roses and switches, so that the black or blue is live when the switch is in the ON position. It is good practice to mark this wire with a red sleeve to warn that it is NOT a neutral, but this doesn't always happen. It isn't a legal requirement for an extension to be the same colour but the wire should be the same current rating. In the UK, the modern system was designed to avoid cable joins in inaccessible places, like connection boxes between floor and ceiling, where a bad connection was more likely to start a fire.
Q: A couple of weeks ago the e-brake light and another light in our '89 Toyota Celica came on the dash and started flashing even though the e-brake wasn't on. Then a day or two later my husband was turning a corner and gunned it and when it got to the point where he needed to shift the dash lights and headlights and radio all went out. Everything but the headlights came back on within seconds. Now the e-brake light the other light next to it stay on; the break lights, tail lights, fog lights and turn signals all work, but the headlights won't come on and the radio cuts out when the rpm gauge gets to the point where we need to shift. My husband checked the fuses and none were blown. Is this an electrical or wiring problem or could it be something else?
This sounds like an OBD-II problem. Can you take your car to a shop where they will check the computer for diagnostic fault codes. It may be that you have a faulty relay or something simple like a burned out light bulb.
Q: Ten five hundred twenty two, five five five four three circles, seeking to explain more specific meaning
ZR is a flame-retardant letter representation, flame retardant can be divided into A, B, C, D four grades, A flame retardant performance of the highest, followed by decreasing, national wire and cable industry standard (GB) requirements to C level
Q: Home decoration to use much of the wires, such as light lines, sockets, air conditioning lines, refrigerator lines
If the set-top box is no problem, that is, the TV problem, video 2 jack problem, or your audio line is also a problem

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