• Fe- CuNi(Constantan) thermocouple (Type J) A quality System 1
Fe- CuNi(Constantan) thermocouple (Type J) A quality

Fe- CuNi(Constantan) thermocouple (Type J) A quality

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Min Order Qty:
100000 m
Supply Capability:
1000000 m/month

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Fe-CuNi thermocouple (type J) is also named Fe- Constantan thermocouple. The positive leg Fe(JP) is made by pure Iron, and the main chemical composition of negative leg Constantan (JN) is Cu: Ni≈ 55%: 45%. Although they are all called Constantan, JN does not give the same EMF output curve as EN and TN, it cannot be instead by other Constantan.

The operating temperature range of type J thermocouple is -210~1200℃, but it is usually used in the temperature range 0~750℃ due to embrittlement of Iron.

Type J thermocouple has good resistance to oxidation and high EMF output against Platinum 67, with good temperature accuracy, sensitivity and stability. It is recommended for vacuum, oxidizing, reducing or inert atmospheres, but it can not be used in sulphurous atmosphere above 500℃.


Q: I was sitting in my living room, when I heard a loud POP. A couple minutes later, I went to the refrigerator and seen that it wasn't working (no power). I checked the fuse box, and there is a fuse blown. I tried to reset it, but it just makes a loud pop noise, and flips. It will not reset. There is nothing plugged into those outlets other than the refrigerator and our water dispenser machine. These same two things have been plugged in for years, without any issues. Is this most likely a short somewhere in the wiring?
HI There, You are correct that something is wrong. Things do not fix them self. My recommendation is to call an electrician and let him/her check out the breaker, the wiring and the wiring for the receptacle where the appliances are plugged in. Very likely you have either a loose connection or a short circuit somewhere in the wiring. There is a device called a megger that an electrician should have that is used to detect the insulation quality of wiring. A megger wil tell you right away if the insulation on a wire is bad. We used a megger most of the time at the industrial plant where I worked to check motors and wiring. It is basically a high voltage ohmeter. For home use it would be used on the 250 volt scale. Loose connections can be found by visual inspection and by moving the wire and tightening the screw terminal. Hope this helps, Al
Q: have a clifford alarm/remote starter and it completely doesn't work. if it is taken out, will it possibly mess up my electrical wires and cause my car to be messed up since the wires in a car are touchy? the alarm was already installed by the previous owner when i bought the car and i have the papers of how he wired it
It could mess things up. If you are not familiar with how they are installed, I would take it to someone who can remove it for you.
Q: I live in a home that is 50 plus years old. All of the electrical outlets in the home are the out dated 2 prong plug ins. Are there any safety issues associate with replacing the outdated 2 prong outlet with a 3 prong outlet to power a metal halide high bay light fixture with a 400 watt ballast? The wiring in the wall is also outdated and does NOT have the up to date 3 wire electrical supply.
No, because the fixture has a transformer, and if the transformer fails it can energize the metal parts of the fixture. The purpose of a ground is to provide a current path to ground from the chassis to operate the overcurrent device if the chassis becomes energized. Without a ground wire the current may find another current that may ignite combustibles.
Q: i have a problem where my acc fuse keeps blowing and im tired of replacing fuses so what i was wondering is if it was safe to straight wire an interior light with an inline fuse and a toggle switch and would it cause any kinds of conflict
The point of having fuses is to protect the circuits. So, I'd say that this would be extremely unsafe - even a 12-volt shock can kill.
Q: I have an electrical box with 3 on off switches in it, 1 comes in from a ceiling light (it will be the only switch for it), the second will run to another separate ceiling light and also continue to another switch, and the third will run to an outlet which I want to be able to turn off and on with the switch for a table lamp.Starting at the power source coming into the box how should the rest be wired to work independentlyThanks
If it is 3 single pole switches all fed hot from that box then you would just pigtail 3 hot wires from your constant hot feed and go to all three switches and then each black wire from your lights will tie to the other lugs on your 3 switches. All whites tie together and wire nut and all grounds twist together and tie to the green lug on your switches.
Q: Does anyone know where I can get a good price on 200 amp copper wire (underground to hook up electricity to a doublewide. Hot#2 Copper, Ground #4Copper and Neutral #2 Copper. 330-350 feet Thanks
At that distance, you would be better with aluminum wire. BUT: #2 copper is 0.156 ohm/1000 feet. You have 700 feet, so the is a resistance of 0.11 ohms. At 200 amps, that is a drop of 22 volts, much too high. Requirement is 5% drop, and at 120 volts, that is 6 volts. #2 copper would be good for 55 amps only at that distance. .
Q: I am putting all my lighting on a single circuit, and have a question. The main feed from the panel to the lights first goes to a double gang switch, one switch controls the lights on half of the main room in the basement, the other controls the lights in the other half of the main room in the basement. Then I need the main feed to continue to three other switches in three other rooms in the basement. Do I just wire nut the black wired and wire nut the white wires, and continue running to the next switch. So if that is the case, then am I correct in saying that in the double gang switch I will have one wire nut with the ground wires, one wire nut with 4 black wires, and one wire nut with 4 white wires? Please help with this matter, I want to do this correct, so my house doesn't burn down.By the way I am using 14/2 wire.
You are correct in the way you described your circuit and what you want to do. Like the other person mentioned, make sure you tap off the black wire before the existing switches and not after. You are correct, all the blacks in a wire nut, all the whites in another, and all the grounds in another. The other thing to consider is overloading the circuit. Figure on using 12 amps maximum out of your 15 amp circuit. That is a total of 1440 watts worth of lights. About 14, 100 watt incandescent bulbs. As long as your #14 wire is protected with a 15 amp circuit breaker, your connections are tight, and all the connections are in boxes, you won't burn the house down. Email if you need more advice.
Q: I am changing out my range hood and in the process I realized that my electrical wire will be about a foot short to where I need it to be. Is it ok to just get a piece of wire and extend it using wire nuts? I really dont want to run a whole wire.
Yes, but also tape the wire nuts and installl a plastic junction box to cover the wires. Chances are you store spices and such in the cabinet, better safe than sorry in case of a short.
Q: Electrical line is already available so what are pros and cons other than ease of installation for solar-powered? This is for a walkway from our driveway to front steps.
Wired Landscape Lighting
Q: For industrial single-phase circuits in China (one 220V hot wire + one neutral wire), do you use normal one-pole breakers for isolation of just the hot conductor, or do they require two-pole breakers so that both hot wire and neutral wire are isolated from load at the 2-pole breaker? I heard rumor they want both wires isolated for single-phase.
YES, it cuts out both lines from its simple breaker panel. Because for some reason ,in some area,its neutral was not really Zero volt and has perhaps 50V between Earth ground and neutral.

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