Flat TPS Cable PVC 450/750V 2C + E Copper AS/NZS 5000.2
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Flat TPS Cable PVC 450/750V 2C + E Copper AS/NZS 5000.2
Applications:
Easi-peel sheath for general wiring unenclosed, in conduit, buried direct or in underground ducts for domestic, commercial and industrial installations where not subject to mechanical damage.
Rated voltage: 450/750V
Conductor: Copper 1~16 mm2
Insulation: PVC, V-90. Red, Black and Green / Yellow
sheath: PVC, 3V-90. White, Black
Environmental performance: Normal operating temp. 75℃
Standards compliance: AS/NZS 5000.2
Parameter sheet
Main Quality Inspection Equipment
Sparker tester,Heating aging Chamber,High resistance machine, Oxygen index equipment, Partial discharge inspection instruments, Fireproof testing device,High-power voltage withstand tester,No-rotor Vulkameter,Pull tester,Analytical balance,Direct current bridge,Plastic tester,Projector, Punch machine,Cross-linked cutting machine,etc.
Company Overview
Certificates
- Q: Is it a 3.5mm audio cable with an ordinary wire or a telephone line? As long as there is a voice to hear on the line, if you can, then how to connect 3.5mm connector? Answer good words bonus points added: ordinary wire and telephone line which anti-interference better? More
- The real production line of the number of workers is a secondary problem, the main problem is 35KV cable production line investment may be a few hundred times the small line production line
- Q: 75 flat cable, copper and aluminum, each can withstand much current
- You can use the yellow wax tube, a single proposal as little as possible, generally in the concrete can not slotted the use of yellow wax tube Advantages: shallow slot location, convenient concrete wall construction Disadvantages: late maintenance of the yellow tube can not drag the line Moving, not easy to repair
- Q: Hi, I'm finishing part of my basement and will be running new wires and adding electrical outlets. I've some question about the electrical wiring code: I frame the wall with 2x4 with a few inches distance off the concrete wall. 1. When running wire from wall to ceiling joint, can I run the wire around the inner side of the top plate(between studs and concrete wall) instead of drilling hole on the top plate and running through the hole? I will staple the rest of the wire along the stud and joint too, 11/4 inch away to the rim.2. When drilling the hole in the stud for wiring, can I drill the hole closer to the concrete wall but the hole is less than 11/4 to the inner side of the stud? Is this against the code? I know I cann't nail from the inner side after framing:)3. It the 6 feet rule aplly also to basemnent as a recreation room, for all walls?4. Is wall switch-controlled lighting outlet means I have to install switch controlled receptacle or switch controlled light is enough? Thanks for your help!
- I may not be right, but I'll take a stab at this one. Let's run it down by the numbers. 1) No, you may not run the Romex through that gap, you have to drill a hole. 2) It's accepted practice to put the hole a little on the deep side of the stud, but you still use hammer on steel wire protector covers before you hang your drywall. 3) The 6 foot rule applies to everything I've ever seen. 4) If you have an overhead light fixture, you don't need a switched outlet. Switched outlets are kinda funny, they are there to satisfy code for landlords and home owners that don't want to spend the money for an overhead light fixture. One note: no matter which way you go (switched outlet or ceiling mount fixture), if you have multiple exits (or entrances, depending upon how you look at it), each egress has to have a switch control. That rule can make for a lot of 3 way and even 4 way switches depending on the floor plan. Hope that helped!
- Q: i have a problem where my acc fuse keeps blowing and im tired of replacing fuses so what i was wondering is if it was safe to straight wire an interior light with an inline fuse and a toggle switch and would it cause any kinds of conflict
- wait a secondare you planning to steal a car!?
- Q: Electrical Wiring for solar USB Charger with rechargeable battery?My goal is to have some sort of three way connection that would allow my charger to have the option of having power run from:A) the solar panel to the batteriesB) the solar panel to the USB female connectorC) the batteries to the USB female connectorwith one switch if possible,Currently I have a DPDT center off switch that allows me to control whether power to the USB is coming from the batteries or the solar panel. Is there a 4-position rotary switch that could give me the 3 different on positions and 1 off position? How would I wire this?
- First I applaud your desire to make this gadget. yet why do you want to apply this way of battery? There are flat Lithium batteries besides except you're worried approximately area. I even have seen the Altoids photograph voltaic charger and the photograph voltaic panel is now and lower back greater advantageous then the container. if your iPhone has a 2,000 mAH score you may desire to evaluate a battery length of a million.5 to 2 circumstances greater advantageous then the gadget you desire to cost then do the calculation for the photograph voltaic panels.
- Q: I have an 5 month old kitten she has chewed plug ends off of things that are plugged into electrical sockets
- If the other suggestions fail then go to the pet store and get some bitter apple or bitter orange. Apply it to anything you don't want the kitten to chew on.
- Q: I am trying to completely remove a dishwasher. I don't want to replace it, just remove it and convert the space to shelf space. The electrical is hardwired to the dishwasher. I already have the breaker off and it can stay off indefinitely. How do I cap the wire ends so it will be safe if someone accidentally turns the breaker back on and those go live? Should I just use wire nuts? Thanks
- Possibly, but very doubtful, the detonating system itself needs more power than a AAA battery could possibly provide. Plus how would the battery detonate it? Like a timer detonator or what? Well you'd probably kill yourself then because it sounds like an immediate detonator. But probably not. The electrical charge is just to small even if it uses all of its energy in one short burst.
- Q: Power inside L and N on behalf of what ah
- Sc: welded steel pipe tc: wire tube galvanized or non-galvanized thin steel pipe attached: pipe laying labeling method sc: welded steel pipe tc: wire tube galvanized or non-galvanized thin steel pipe pc: hard plastic pipe ct: cable bridge cp : Metal hose SR: steel trunking RC: water gas pipe KBG: pipe for the buckle-type galvanized thin-walled steel pipe, JDG: for the tight-fitting galvanized thin-walled steel pipe
- Q: I know they shouldn't be allowed to view pornography, but what about electrical wiring videos as well?If they do, and they learn how to do electrical work, would that make them want to experiment and try things at home? If they did that, they might get electrocuted.
- I think my seven year old is a genius but, they're no where near being able to read and understand a schematic - You know, the term your pea brain is searching for. They also wouldn't understand pornography and wouldn't benefit from it.
- Q: Hi!Here is my situation. My husband installed a dishwasher for me over a year ago. The dish washer plugs into the same outlet my garbage disposal plugs into. The outlet in under my kitchen sink in the back of the cabinet. This outlet is connected to a switch located right behind my sink on the back splash. This is the problem. In order to use the dish washer, I have to unplug the disposal because the disposal will run the whole time if the switch is on. And so every time I need to use the disposal I have to crawl under the sink to plug it in. (VERY annoying) So I have been waiting for my husband to fix this for over a year and he keeps putting it off. So I want to know how I would go about doing this my self? I need to know what supplies I need, fittings? Basically step by step instructions and a materials list Hope someone can help. Thanks in advance!
- Oh, I missed the part about where the switch was. Ron G is right but here is a band aid. Use a 14awg 3 wire SJ or similar cord (should have a black rubber jacket) you can get at Lowes long enough to go from the back of the cabinet to the front plus spare. Put a plug on the end of the cord. Run the cord through a cord grip on a handy box to a switch. Mount the switch under the sink near the door for easy access. Wire the garbage disposal into the new switch. (another cord grip and SJ wire) Mount the switch under the sink near the door for easy access. Plug in the dishwasher and new cord into the outlet at the back of the cabinet. Now you can turn the disposal on and off from under the sink. Or you have it done correctly by an electrician.
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Flat TPS Cable PVC 450/750V 2C + E Copper AS/NZS 5000.2
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