• 600V EPDM Insulated AWG Welding Cable 1/0,2/0,3/0,4/ System 1
  • 600V EPDM Insulated AWG Welding Cable 1/0,2/0,3/0,4/ System 2
  • 600V EPDM Insulated AWG Welding Cable 1/0,2/0,3/0,4/ System 3
600V EPDM Insulated AWG Welding Cable 1/0,2/0,3/0,4/

600V EPDM Insulated AWG Welding Cable 1/0,2/0,3/0,4/

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
20000 m/month

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600V EPDM Insulated AWG Welding Cable 1/0,2/0,3/0,4/

 

Specifications

Stranded bare copper 
AWG gauge ,600V 
EPDM jacket 
Heat ,Oil Resistant ,flame Retardant

 

WELDING CABLE PROFESSIONAL FACTORY- DONGGANG CABLE

 

600V 2/0AWG RUBBER/EPDM/CPE/NEOPRENE coppper welding cable

 

 

Application: For the transmission of high currents from the electric welding machine to the welding tool. Suitable for flexible use under rough conditions, on assembly lines and conveyor systems, in machine tool and motor car manufacturing, ship building, for manually and automatically operated line and spot welding machines.

 

Standards:  

Conductor: strandard bare copper  

Separator: Polyester foil or tape

 

Sheath: EPDM(Heat and Oil Resistant and Flame Retardant)

Core identification: to customer specification

Voltage Rating: 600v/1000v

 

Structures

Temperature rating: -40 °C to 105 °C

Minimum bending radius: 6 x overall diameter

Size : 2/0AWG

STRANDING: 1330/30

Nominal insulation thickness:0.08inch

Nominal outer diameter: 0.63inch


Picture

600V EPDM Insulated AWG Welding Cable 1/0,2/0,3/0,4/

Q: I now live in the old house, the circuit is often bad, the lights for a change and one, it is said that the aging of the circuit is not safe, but I immediately want to move a new house, do not intend to re-decoration here. But how long will the new house circuit aging? Aged to dig all the holes in the wall? That is it not white decoration? Question added: how many years is expected to need the whole line? Often heard that the circuit aging fire, I would like to prevent in the past ah! More
The first fiber without patch panels, really want to say that it is just a set of flange transfer equipment only, the flange is just a joint, the purpose is to facilitate maintenance, because the beam is equivalent to the trunk, and butterfly tail as a line of existence The possibility of disassemble, and therefore can not be welded with the trunk
Q: How are they wired up, and how do they work, thanks.
If you are talking about a feed meaning a home run from the panel then the feed usually goes to the light and drops to the switch and can pick up a couple of recepticles in the wall also. The national electrical code allows for a white to switch hot if it is marked on both ends so you can use a two wire run. If you run from the panel to the switch box then you will have a hot switched for the light, one for the hot recepticles and a neutral for all. Keep in mind the green is allways used and only used for a bond and nothing else.That gives you a 3 wire and a bond going from the small switch box to the larger light box in the cieling, Which will work but is harder to follow years later if you have problems. If you run from the panel to the cieling box it is easy to locate and trouble shoot all wires as everything goes to that box. Most switches are single pole and require 2 wires and it is pretty much a in and out deal so that is simple enough but if it is a 3 way ( or switched at 2 places ) you have to use 3 way switches, If you want to switch from 3 places or more then you have to use 2 - 3 way and the rest 4 way. I realize I am not telling you all you have to know but electricity is not for people who dont know what they are doing. You can get shocked and others can get hurt or the house could burn down with you sleeping in it so I suggest you get out the Home Depot do it yourself books or go to the library and learn what and the whys of electricity. I hope what I have told you gets you to see that it takes some home work to make it safe and understandable.
Q: Rural new house. Do not know is to choose BVV line. Or the first BV line is ready to buy 1.5 square feet. Lighting with 2.5 square feet. Socket 4.0 square main line of electrical appliances are washing machines. Air conditioning and other commonly used appliances ... Let 's get ready to go straight
All right, Apple's power adapter voltage is 110-. where can be used, the power plug is also the same with the domestic, are the two the kind of (extension of the line with the head) and the same
Q: Background: I have a 12/3 wire coming up from the circuit panel in the basement to the attic that was wired when the house was built (~1971). The two live wires are connected to separate 20 amp circuit breakers in the panel box. Each of the live wires are connected to separate load (1 is connected to an attic fan and 1 is connected to an AC air handler) - I think the attic fan draws about 6-7 amps and the air handler draws about 14 amps, and both are connected to the white wire in the 12/3 BX.Q: Is this ok? Specifically, if the sum of electricity from the 2 load wires is greater than 20 amps, is it ok for the white wire going back to the circuit panel, e.g. will that get dangerously hot/is it against code? (This is in NY State)
The nuetral -white-is not a load carrier.It's presence is to keep the 60 hz cycle present. The black and red supliers are mere conductors to the load, wich consumes all of the amperage. Yes- the neutral will take on a load level, if the prescribed load directly shorts. The extra bare ground connections are designed to sweep this dangerious excess ,away quickly. If you study your breaker-box, you will see that the grounds and the neutrals are connected at the exact same place. The both terminate to the ground,pipe,s connections. As does the 3'rd , bare wire connection, into your weatherhead mast.
Q: I am trying to wire up a tree light. All that comes out of the light is a Black White, and Ground wire. The instructions say you are supposedddd to install a Conduit and conduit connector which i dont have or really know what is. Can i install it without one. (AKA could i just splice it to a cut extension chord that also has a white black and ground?
No, it's never ok to cut an extension cord and splice it into a light especially without a raintight junction box on an outdoor circuit. The only way that you could safely install this without conduit would be to connect a junction box to the nipple on the light in a manner that would provide a watertight seal, then to connect UF wire to the junction box using a similarly raintight connector and run that wire along a path that would not put it at risk for damage by foot traffic, pets, or landscaping equipment to an existing power source or electric panel, then connecting the UF wire to that box using a raintight connector and connecting the hot, neutral ground, and earth ground wires to the correct wires or terminals in that box. However since you don't know what conduit is, I would strongly urge you to not take this project on yourself. You're dealing with line voltage outdoors in your yard and that's a risky situation. You or someone that you live with or your pet could get electrocuted (as in dead kaput goner) when moisture is present in your back yard. If you need to light a tree, you might consider just one or two of those $5 floodlights with the plastic stake that you stick into the ground and then run an extension cord to. The type of light that you have is made to be hard wired by an experienced electrical professional.
Q: 3000W of the electrical use of the wire
This is based on the current, single-phase current I = P / U = 3000/220 = 13.6A three-phase current I = P / (1.732 * U * 0.8) = 3000 / (1.732 * 380 * 0.8) = 5.69A You can choose the appropriate wire according to the standard, see below
Q: Hi everyone, just curious about some different things ive read on the internet, there is 3 switches, 2x2 way and 1xintermediate. in the 1st 2 way coming down from the light, the brown coming down is in l2 with the brown coming up that connects the intermediate switch. the black wire coming up goes into the common in the 2 way switch. in the intermediate it says the grey go in the l1 and l2 and the brown go in the other l1 l2 whilst the black ones are in the connector blocks. i thought it was the grey and black in the l1's and l2's and the browns in connector blocks. thanks for your time to the ones who help :).i have an exam on it tomorrow and thats 1 thing ive read on the internet that i dont think was right.
The circuit you describe is called a 4 way switch circuit. At the first switch in the circuit the power feed is terminated at the common terminal of the switch and the two travelers ( one red and one black ) of the interconnecting wire connect to the other two terminals. At the center switch of the circuit which is called a 4 way switch ( there can be any number of 4 way switches in a circuit but they must always be in the middle of the circuit ) the input travelers connect to the bright terminal screws and the output travelers connect to the dark terminal screws (typically top-top and bottom-bottom) then at the last switch in the circuit (again a 3 way switch) the travelers connect to the two terminals which are the same color and the output to the light connects to the common terminal. At each switch box the neutral (White) wire is wire nutted to the white wire of the next set of wires. And the bare copper ground wire is both bonded ( Compression bond ) to the ground wire of the next cable AND terminated to the green grounding screw in the box if it is a metal box AND terminated to the green grounding screw on the yoke of the switch.
Q: A couple of weeks ago the e-brake light and another light in our '89 Toyota Celica came on the dash and started flashing even though the e-brake wasn't on. Then a day or two later my husband was turning a corner and gunned it and when it got to the point where he needed to shift the dash lights and headlights and radio all went out. Everything but the headlights came back on within seconds. Now the e-brake light the other light next to it stay on; the break lights, tail lights, fog lights and turn signals all work, but the headlights won't come on and the radio cuts out when the rpm gauge gets to the point where we need to shift. My husband checked the fuses and none were blown. Is this an electrical or wiring problem or could it be something else?
This sounds like an OBD-II problem. Can you take your car to a shop where they will check the computer for diagnostic fault codes. It may be that you have a faulty relay or something simple like a burned out light bulb.
Q: can i use speaker wire to replace a section of wire that runs 2 12volt led lights in my car without it causing a fire?
If it is the same or larger wire size. HINT: wire is wire. Look at the copper part of the wire, not the insulation.
Q: I have a electrical outlet in my room on a switch. I want to divert the wires in the attic so that I can install a ceiling light.The duplex electrical outlet has black, white, red, and ground wires attached. The wall switch has black, red, and ground attached. I connected black, red, and ground from the switch to my ceiling light. It does not work. What am I doing wrong? Thanks.
It seems that first of all only half of your duplex receptacle is switched, and also the switch may be a 3 way switch, I would call an electrician you already have the hard stuff done. An electrician will only charge a service fee to connect it properly.

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