LSZH Cat6A UTP Cable
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 Meters m
- Supply Capability:
- 600000 Meters per Day m/month
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Specifications
1) CONDUCTOR
* Raw material of the conductor: solid bare copper
* Conductor Dia.: 0.575±0.003mm (23AWG)
2) INSULATION
* Raw material of the conductor: F-PE
* Quantity:4 twisted pairs
Blue/white-blue;Green/white-green;Orange/white-green;Brown/white-brown;
* Insulation Dia. : 1.35±0.005mm
* Average thickness: 0.3875 mm
* Minimum point thickness: 0.0.385mm
3) TWISTED PAIRS SCREEN: Aluminum foil
4) SHEATH
* Sheath material: LSZH or PVC
* Nominal Dia.: 7.3 ± 0.2mm
* Average thickness: 0.65mm
* Minimum point thickness: 0.55mm
Mechanical Properties
*Conductor insulation material: halogen free Foam/Skin material
*Cable jacket material: halogen-free, flame-retardant material
*Application area: dray as well as humid rooms
*Temperature (moved): 0°C to 50°C
*Operating temperature: -20°C to +60°C
*Min. bending radius for one-time bending: 4×O.D.
*Min. bending radius during installation: 8×O.D.
Electrical properties
*Loop impendence: 130 W/km
*Highest impendence difference: 2%
*Insulation resistance >5000 MW x km
*Impendence Z0 at 1 100MHz: 100 W ± 15%
*Impendence Z0 at 1 350MHz: 100 W ± 18%
*Impendence Z0 at 1 500MHz: 100 W ± 25%
*Surface transfer impendence: < 100 MW per Meter at 10MHz
*Earthing symmetry db/BZL = 1000m > 46dB at 64kHz
*Earthing symmetry db/BZL = 100m > 40dB at 1MHz
*Earthing symmetry db/BZL = 100m > 20dB at 100MHz
*Mutual capacitance: 43pF/m
*Highest earthing-coupling: 0,001MHz: 1000 pF/km
*Propagation speed at > 10MHz (NVP*c): 0,79c
*Signal propagation delay >10MHz: 4,2ns/m
*Skew:<25ns/100m
- Q: I have a garden shed to which I would like to run electrical power. I have a source of power in my workshop that has a few open breakers in a 125AMP panel. Any running from the current panel to the garden shed would be roughly 60 feet long. I was thinking of running a 10-3 wire with two hots, a common and the ground to split into two circuits once I got to the shed. One would be for a few outlets (internal and outside) and another circuit for the lighting. I would be exiting the workshop for about 20 feet to get to the garden shed where I would put the cable 18 underground in a 1 1/2 inch conduit. If this is OK, what sort of breakers would I need at the workshop panel? I was thinking 2 20-amp single pole for each wire (hots-redblack), the common to the neutral bar and of course the ground. Is this enough information to help me ensure I would be NEC compliant? Any safety issues? Is there a better way to do this?
- You are running two single-pole 20-A hots out there. That is considered more than one branch. NEC 250.32 requires that the outbuilding subpanel have its own grounding electrode (e.g., buried rod) connected to the grounding bar in the panel. If there are no other metallic paths to the shed (water or gas pipes, TV cable, etc), then you can even skip the grounding wire in the PVC conduit completely (running two hots and a neutral) and just ground the new panel to the new electrode. Look at the cost of running two 10 AWG conductors and one 8 AWG rather than 10/3 w/g. Probably not far enough to make a difference. Agree that 1-inch pipe is plenty big. Run two in at the same time, in case you ever want a phone line, CCTV, alarm/bell wire, or any other low-voltage wiring to the shed. If you do use 10-3 w/g for the feeder, do not bond the neutral bar to the panel ground (i.e., leave out the tap screw that they may give you for that purpose). But you still need to connect the new grounding rod to the grounding bar in the panel. The 250.32 Exception would apply if you were just running 10-2 w/g for a single branch, relieving you of the need for the new grounding electrode. If anybody has a newer code that gives some other grounding rod exceptions, please chime in. I'm looking at my old NEC 2002 Handbook, Exhibit 250-18, showing two hots, neutral and EGC running through u/g feeder conduit, isolated neutral bar in subpanel and grounding conductor from first building bonded to grounding bar at subpanel and separate electrode rod.
- Q: Hello,In the rental cottage that I live in, I have an enclosed back porch that doesn'tt have any electrical outlets. What I do have is a vent opening for the furnace room which is on the other side of the wall. This is a short vent, and once inside the furnace room, it is just a few feet to an electrical outlet. Since I am renting the place, I figure the most non-invasive way to get electricity out to the porch is to feed an extension cord through the vent. One catch is that I put a screen on the vent because otherwise moths and bees were flying into the house. How can I install the extension cord, through the screen, and reseal the screen so I can stay bug-free inside?thanks much
- Cut a slit, put it through, and Silicon Sealant will hold it closed around the cord after it cures.
- Q: HelloRecently I installed 100W Bulbs in my home and noticed that the light fixtures became extremely hot and within 10 minutes they had started melting the insulation. So i looked at the wire and found that it was 18 Gauge and found that through all fixtures of the home some of them with at least 20 feet of wiring is this up to code? I also noticed that many sockets would not allow a laptop to charge or even a cell phone what could be the cause of this? I'm in ontario canada.
- On the fixture it self under the cover should be a sticker listing the max wattage of a bulb to use if its says say 60w max then you put a 100w in you answered your own question. Light fixtures are rated for wattage put to much in end result is over heated wires melted fixture and or a fire Buy a new one rated for a 100w most folks don't know they are rated hope that helps Lr
- Q: i am remodeling a bathroom. i see that the wiring is old. the main service panel was just replaced but the wires werent since i already have the bathroom walls opened up. i want to replace the wiring.the electrician said to use 12-2 wires for outles and 14-2 for light switches and fixtures.ok. i got that. ive been looking on diagrams that have outlets switches and fixtures and none of them tells what type of wire to use wheredo i need to bring two wires from the service panel up to the bathroom? one 12.2 and one 14.2?i have a VERY LIMITED space for more breakers and i dont want to have a breaker for just the outlet and a breaker for just the switch and fixture. i want to put the entire circuit into one breakeri read in some websites to never mix 12 wire with 14 wire. but that i should use 12-2 for outlets and 14-2 for switches. how can i do that?do i just use the 12-2 wire? also. the breaker i have for the bathroom i believe its 20 amp.
- Keep it simple - you're not adding enough wire to complicate things by running two types of wire, just use all 12-2 with ground (commonly called 'romex') Use a GFCI protected outlet. If the switch and outlet are going to be near/next to each other - I would bring the wire up from the circuit box to the outlet/switch, and from there on up to the light fixture - as opposed to running power to the light first, and then another wire down to the switch and back. I ran my entire house with 12-2 w/ground, when we put in all new electrical, shortly after buying it. It originally had 60 amp service, and cloth wrapped wires. It would have cost a bit less in electrical wire, if I'd ran most of the outlets with the lighter gage 14-2 w/ground - but you can ONLY use 15 amp breakers (or less) with 14 gage wire.with the 12 gage wire, you can run the 20 amp dedicated circuits required by code for certain appliances (built in microwave, for example). And - many of the new televisions today require 20 amp circuits. You can put 15 amp breakers on 12 gage wire circuits - but you cannot put 20 amp breakers on 14 gage wire. Hopefully - you checked to see if you needed a permit to do any of this work before starting it. Remember, when in doubt - call an electrician Have Fun
- Q: I am looking to remodel a mobile home that is 12x60. All the wiring was removed by the previous owner. I need a rough estimate on how much wiring this would take and the type of wiring. I would estimate that it has about 10-15 outlets that are mostly located towards the floor if that if useful info. I really have no idea about this and am completely clueless as to what to look for or use. Any advice would be much appreciated!
- If the walls are open to the studs then $200/ box is what I would probably bid for that type of job. So 21 boxes at $200 about $4000 and that does not include special devices or fixtures. Copper wire is expensive now compared to 10 years ago but the main cost is the labor. Mobile homes are a pain to work in.
- Q: I accidentally cut a hidden outside electrical outlet with my lawn mower. The outlet was knocked off the wires and they are now exposed. I've managed to isolate the breaker and shut it off, which is a temporary fix. The outlet is pretty useless (it was kind of hidden by a well that I was cutting around, and forgotten) and not used anymore. So, I'm not really interested in replacing it - I want to know how to cover the wire so it isn't an exposed live electrical wire in my yard. How easy is this?
- UK answer. If the outlet is no longer required disconnection of the wiring for it from the breaker would be the safest and probably the best method.
- Q: I am trying to install a GFI in my bathroom but it keeps popping. I have narrowed the problem down to the high hats. I think the switch for the high hats is installed on the neutral, but I am not sure. When I hook up the wires for the high hats, the gfi pops. I have checked all the outlets for reversed wires. I can not get to the wires on the high hats. Is this dangerous?
- Generally all switches should be wired to interrupt the hot lead, but you message indicates you already know this. I can think of two things that are happening. One could be that you already have and existing ground fault on the high hats. The other is that some load in the house is using the same neutral line and thus the GFI is detecting an imbalance between the high hat hot wire and the returning neutral. You might try measuring the voltage potential between ground and the neutral on the high hats when they are energize. It should be zero. If it's not, then something else is using the same neutral.you may have heard this referred to as a common nuetral. This is a common mistake and as you probably know, it can put 110 volt potential on the ground side of a second electrical device.
- Q: If you have hot wires, then electrical energy is being used to heat the wires. Is this an efficient use of electricity? Explain.Question is related to the general area of circuits, resistance, current, voltage etc.Any help would be appreciated :)
- It depends on where the hot wire is. If it is in your wall, (part of the electrical wiring), it is overloaded and will likely start a fire. If it is in an appliance, such as a toaster, it is doing it's job. Someone else may shoot me down on this, but I believe that heating a grid of wires by running an electrical current through them is a fairly efficient way way to turn bread into toast. I say Fairly efficient because there is a lot of heat lost into the environment during and immediately after the toast is made and the electricity is shut off. Also, there is a period from when the power is turned on until the heating element reaches operating temperature. Also, I know of no other PRACTICAL way of making toast when the only energy comes through the electrical supply. So is it really efficient? No, but I know of no other practical way. Yes, you COULD heat up a clothes iron or similar appliance and use that to make toast, but that would be even more inefficient.
- Q: There is a thing that can measure the location of the wire inside the wall, what is this instrument called? What is its working principle? Thank you in detail
- Heat shrink tubing in the cable connector is mainly from the seal and the role of a certain tightening force, the cable head heat, then the seal will be better
- Q: I ordered and received a violin makers bending iron in the mail. There is a ceramic box that covers some wires that is broken in half. Must have been in the shipping. I contacted the seller who said I should just glue it or wrap electrical tape around it. Does this sound right? Thanks so much for your help.
- sure, you can super glue the ceramic together, just make sure no electrical parts are exposed (like any energized metal parts). but i believe you can demand a new one if it was damaged during shipping
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1. Manufacturer Overview
| Location | Guangdong,China |
| Year Established | 2011 |
| Annual Output Value | US$50 Million - US$100 Million |
| Main Markets | 10.00% North America 10.00% South America 10.00% Eastern Europe 10.00% Southeast Asia 10.00% Domestic Market 10.00% Mid East 10.00% Eastern Asia 5.00% Western Europe 5.00% Central America 5.00% Northern Europe 5.00% Southern Europe 5.00% South Asia 5.00% Africa |
| Company Certifications | ISO 9001:2008;ISO 14001:2004;CE;ROHS |
2. Manufacturer Certificates
| a) Certification Name | |
| Range | |
| Reference | |
| Validity Period |
3. Manufacturer Capability
| a) Trade Capacity | |
| Nearest Port | Shenzhen,Hongkong |
| Export Percentage | 51% - 60% |
| No.of Employees in Trade Department | 6-10 People |
| Language Spoken: | English, Chinese, Japanese, Korean |
| b) Factory Information | |
| Factory Size: | 1,000-3,000 square meters |
| No. of Production Lines | 5 |
| Contract Manufacturing | OEM Service Offered Design Service Offered Buyer Label Offered |
| Product Price Range | Low and/or Average |
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LSZH Cat6A UTP Cable
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 Meters m
- Supply Capability:
- 600000 Meters per Day m/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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