Copper Core PVC Insulated Building Wire

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1. Product Description:

•Type: Low Voltage

•Application: Construction

•Conductor Material: Copper

•Jacket: PVC

•Standard: GB/T2171-1999

•Reference standard: ISO9001

•Color: Black or as your request

2. Product Characteristic:

Hydrophobic edge can withstand high pressure without breakdown, effectively avoid leakage, electric shock hazard. Corrosion resistant, anti pest PVC pipe has a general acid and alkali resistance, at the same time, due to the PVC tube containing no plasticizer, so no pest damage. Tension and pressure can withstand strong pressure, suitable for the installation or dark in the concrete, not afraid of compression rupture. Construction simple A:PVC pipe light weight, easy to transport and manual handling, construction and installation of light and energy saving.

3.Specification：

Type	Name	Laying place and requirement	Crated voltage	Nominal Section (mm2
227IEC01(BV)	Copper conductor PVC insulated wires Aluminum conductor PVC insulated wires	Fixed laid indoors Conduit etc.	450/750 300/500 450/750	1.5...185
227IEC05 (BV)				0.5...1
BLV				2.5...185
227IEC07(BV-90)	Heat resistant copper conductor PVC insulated wire at 90 0C	Mainly be laid at the places of high temperature environment and can be laid indoors, conduits.	300/500	0.5...2.5

4. Reference Picture：

Copper Core PVC Insulated Building Wire

Q:I am running a new wire from the electrical panel to my flat panel tv. problem is there is a cold air return in the way. I am a bit worried running it across the bottom, in the basement, of the cold air return, seems like it would be a fire hazard. should I run it through conduit? if so what kind? flexible? metal? rubber? thanks.: romex is fine

Q:How are marine electrical wiring for boats and ships differ from that for land based buildings?: Wear rubbergloves and wellies. HAHA

Q:I just need to confirm if is is safe. This is for DIY electrical wiring in Australia. This is for a 3 light traffic light I purchased off OKorder that need wiring. There are four plugs. Each plug lots up one light individually (which each are active) and the other one is neutral+earth plug only.Plug 1: Neautral and Earth contained on this plug and active missing from it.Plug 2: Active (red light) and neutral/earth missing on it.Plug 3: active (yellow light) and neutral/earth missing on it.Plug 4 active (green light) and neutral/earth missing on it.Does this make sense? If not, I can try again to make it understandable.: You should always have the ground plug connected, for safety. Then connect the hot plugs (via relays perhaps) as needed to light up the lights. In actual use, all the plugs would be connected to a relay box, where timers and relays would sequence the power to the hot leads to sequence the lights as required.

Q:How to use a multimeter to detect the cable is good or bad: 5 square wire for the socket; single-core 4 square wire for more than 3 air-conditioning; single-core 6 square wire for the total Line, two-color line for ground wire

Q:I notice that theyre usually associated with two poles: Both the hot and the neutral comprise the circuit for a 120 volt circuit. In a 240 volt circuit, the two hot wires carry current and the neutral doesn't, unless the device has both 120 and 240 volt devices associated with the main device. The above statement is relative to the USA normal household service. This service is a split-phase service from the secondary of a 120/240 volt system. The neutral (center tap of the secondary) is grounded. The neutral is a conductor just as the hot wires are. The hot wires are designated 'hot' because they are not grounded. If you touch one of the hot wires while simultaneously touching something that's grounded (including yourself), you will receive an electrical shock, sometimes resulting in death. The neutral, being grounded, will see a volt or two potential difference between the neutral and ground. This is more pronounced, if the circuit is carrying a load. If the load in your home is completely balanced on both hot wires, the neutral will carry no current between the circuit breaker panel and the transformer. The neutral and the hot wire of a circuit changes polarity 120 times per second. TexMav

Q:how many wires are allowed in a standard outlet box (i believe 3x2 1/2 deep). what do you do if you need more wires than are allowed?how many wires are allowed if i gang 2 boxes?i live in ontario, canada. thanks: idk maybe 2?

Q:Home improvement, the wire specifications generally how to choose? Lighting, sockets, air conditioning with a few square lines? Ground specifications can be lighter than the line of fire, zero line?: Electrical pipelines and water supply and drainage pipes can be directly applied to remove the corresponding installation quota, installation costs by half, excluding the main price.

Q:Please guess a riddle: a beautiful ride on the wire. (Hit a plant) Rural visible: Sorghum (pretty) should be the case The The The The Do the job. The The

Q:I will be installing spray in foam in the wall cavities and am wondering if I should have all of the wiring replaced (electrical outlets and the such) before. I've read it's difficult to replace wiring once the foam has become rigid. My fear is that a wire will short and the electrical outlet will become useless (due to previously stated problem). Any information is greatly appreciated.: There is no benefit in insulating interior walls, only walls to the exterior need insulating and they should already be insulated. If you’re trying to get rid of drafts install the foam gaskets on all light switches and wall sockets. Clean caulk all windows check and replace exterior door weather strips add more insulation to the attic.

Q:I live in a building that was built in 1928. Much of the original wire is still in use, Recently, I tried to install a new ceiling fixture but the wire was so old that when I touched the cloth insulation some of it literally turned to dust. (As a result, I called an electrician to replace the wire and install the light.) In the early 1970s, the building was upgraded with circuit breakers and some new wire, but does the old wire need to be replaced? Is it a fire hazard?: It isn't so much the wires, but in old installations they put connecting boxes between floor and ceiling, where things like wood shavings, sawdust and paper were often left after building work. This was believed to be the cause of a number of house fires when connections got loose and sparks flew. Modern wiring has all connections in boxes which are accessible. In the uk modern installations should be certified safe, and if part of the wiring is old, you will not have a fully dertified installation, and this has implications not only for fire safety, but also for for insurance claims. it is best to get new wiring for ALL the installation. Old wiring is best removed, if not for safety reasons, then at least so that in the future an electrician will not be wondering if old wiring is still connected somewhere.

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