Cat5 UTP Lan Cable
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1000 Meters m
- Supply Capability:
- 600000 Meters per Day m/month
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Specifications
*Test Report: Fluke 4300
*Stadards: CSA-C22.2 No.214,Type CM TIA/EIA-516
*Solid BC conductor;
*HDPE insulated
*LSZH jacket
*OEM is acceptable
*Raw material of the conductor solid bare copper
*Conductor Dia 0.575+/-0.003mm23AWG
*Raw material of the conductor:F-PE
*Quantity:4 twisted pairs
*Blue/White-blue; Green/White-green;
*Orange/White-green; Brown/White-brown;
*Instruction dia :1.024+/-0.005mm
*Sheath material:LSZH PVC
*Nominal Dia:6.5 +/-0.2mm
*Average thickness:0.60mm
Sales Features:
*High quality approved,strict QC controlled.
*Specialized and personalized service.
*OEM and ODM are welcomed.
*Competitive price
- Q: I only have 2 outlets in my room and need to add an additonal 2. I would like to try this on my own if possible. I have basic knowledge about electrical outlets.
- Follow JBD's instructions, use 12/2 romex wire and since the screws are full, you will have to remove the wire from them, twist them together and add one more set of wires which will go to the empty screws. DO NOT PLUG THE WIRES INTO THE SMALL ROUND HOLES just to make a quick connect. 1- If the receptacle is three hole grounding type, it will have 2 flat slots and a round grounding hole green screw (inside). 2- One of the flat blades will be wider than the other. (this is the neutral wire - white wire). 3- The smaller one is the hot side and the black wire goes to this one. (you may see that the corresponding screws are colored - white for neutral and brass for hot/line. Good luck, be safe and turn off the power before you start ! ! !
- Q: I am experiencing a problem with electrical wiring. I was trying to change a lightswitch to a duplex lightswitch/outlet. I could only get the outlet to work, not the lightswitch part. So I deceided to switch back to my original lightswitch (that originally worked just fine) because I would have to wait for someone who knows more to help me with the duplex. Now the lightswitch doesn't work either. What could have happend to cause this and how do I fix this?
- Did i get you right , that what you needed is a light switch and an extra outlet? the power line for a light switch, one passing thru the switch then connected to the light, while the other, live one is connected directly to your light or receptacles, when you switch the light the line that pass thru you switch is powered giving you a positive and negative power. to light your lamp. Now when you installed an additional outlet, you must connect the two negative and positive wire to your outlet. See to it that the line connected to your receptacles is not altered but connected to one terminal of your outlet say as the positive line,while the other line the negative line, connected to your outlet should extend thru your switch then from switch this line shall be connected to your receptacle to complete the connection. I presumed that you know how to connect the wire to your switch. This is only a single live wire, cut off into two, one connected to he upper terminal of your switch and the one one connected to lower terminal then this line is connected to the terminal of your receptacle to complete the cycle. Check that even if your light is off, your outlet must be energised if it is not, then review your connection The failure of your light switch might be due to loose connection or parts of it isn't working anymore that you need to change it to new one.
- Q: I have 4 consecutive 110v outlets that are only receiving 82v and the receptacles are not working. I tested them with a multimeter. I tested from both the receptacle and the wiring to the receptacle. What do i need to do to resolve this. The breaker isnt tripped, and the fuses are good. I have checked switches- to see if maybe one needs to remain on for the string of outlets to work, but there doesnt seem to be one tied into them. it is 4 outlets on one side of the living room. no gfi to reset. the house was built in the mid -90's. as far as i know-- there has been no hack job engineering done before i moved in. i bought the place from original owner, and they said its original wiring. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
- Great answer from 'mermeliz'. Please reward it with 10 points. I agree with the probable culprit. Here is a method to find the problem. Not 100% guaranteed, but works almost all of the time. If it doesn't, you will be stuck opening each receptacle on the circuit until you find the problem. Turn on all of your non-working lights and plug lamps into any non-working receptacles. Make sure that any computers, or other sensitive electronics are not plugged into this circuit. Take a lamp or an extension cord around to the all of the receptacles on this circuit. DON'T rule out the working receptacles either. Try them too. Plug it in and wiggle the plug (hard enough to wiggle the receptacle too). You will probably find one where doing this suddenly causes your non-working lights/receptacles to come back to life. This will be your culprit. As 'mermeliz' correctly stated, a lot of homes are wired with receptacles using 'stab-in-the-back' connections. These are actually still in use and are deemed safe for installation. The problem is that they have a terrible failure rate. The term 'stab-in-the-back' also applies to what they do to you later. Any replacement should have screw terminal connections.
- Q: i am remodeling a bathroom. i see that the wiring is old. the main service panel was just replaced but the wires werent since i already have the bathroom walls opened up. i want to replace the wiring.the electrician said to use 12-2 wires for outles and 14-2 for light switches and fixtures.ok. i got that. ive been looking on diagrams that have outlets switches and fixtures and none of them tells what type of wire to use wheredo i need to bring two wires from the service panel up to the bathroom? one 12.2 and one 14.2?i have a VERY LIMITED space for more breakers and i dont want to have a breaker for just the outlet and a breaker for just the switch and fixture. i want to put the entire circuit into one breakeri read in some websites to never mix 12 wire with 14 wire. but that i should use 12-2 for outlets and 14-2 for switches. how can i do that?do i just use the 12-2 wire? also. the breaker i have for the bathroom i believe its 20 amp.
- when did the code change? was the wiring for a bathroom always 12-2?
- Q: I had the electrical wiring installed in my living room for two sconces. I found the most perfect lights that I want to install. Problem is they have a lamp cord and a plug that needs an electrical socket. I was wondering if I cut the cord and wire it to the sconce black/white would that make them work off of the switch?
- yes you can,look on the wire from the lamp,one should be copper and one alum.or look on the insulation of the wire and look for ribbed lines running down one side of the wire,this will be the lead wire,or hook it to the black wire in the wall,and the other to the white or common,before you connect the wires together take the strand wire (lamp) and twist it real tight almost to a solid piece of wire,now with power off to that wire take the black wire and the ribbed twisted wire and wire nut them together,do the same to the other one and now you have done it.
- Q: I am looking to do some electrical work and I was thinking of a way to make electrical wiring turn cold. I have a good imagination, so I am thinking I need to remove free negative electron ions from the conductive material. I dont know if this means it neads a load a ground or watever I mean I am guessing blind to electricity. My pops said dip it in liquid nitrogen but I detest this solution. Anyone have ideas? I really am at a loss concerning electrical circuitry, any ideas?
- Dude, if you don't know any more about it than that, leave it alone. Otherwise you'll kill yourself. If your circuits are heating up, you have too much load on them. To keep them from heating up, you either 1. Reduce the load, or 2. use larger gauge wire.
- Q: I have a baby monitoring system camera that isn't wireless and I want to make it wireless. It comes with a wire that plugs into an a/c adapter that goes into the wall. The a/c adapter has an input of 120ac and an output of 12dc. I also have a battery holder that holds 8 AA batteries and has two wires coming out of it. I want to cut the wire going to the a/c adapter and hook it up to the wire going to the battery holder. Will this work and how do I hook up the wires?
- The easy answer would be to solder a DC connector identical to the one on the output end of the AC adapter to the two wires coming off the battery holder (red to center pin, black to ring). Here's the not so easy part: What is the current (amperage) required by the camera? The voltage of 8 AA batteries may equal 12VDC, but they probably won't be able to handle the amount of current the camera needs to work. Larger 12VDC batteries might work, but make it less portable, and the operating time might still be limited. Maybe a 12VDC battery from a power back up unit? Is the power cable the only think keeping his camera from being wireless? How does it transmit its signal?
- Q: Hi all :)I am looking in to re-wiring a house that has not been re-wired since the 50's. I have been looking at the electrical system where the wires are external to the wall, but in trunking. Does anyone know how much that would cost and if there are any negatives, apart from the aesthetic elements?
- As Mr.rhsaunde alluded to, this is a pretty wild idea. However, one wants what one whats. Price will be determined by the cost of the wire and the other materials you'd use, at the time in which you start the project. Not only would this external wiring be, in my opinion, sort of funky (no offense) I would think that it might actually be imposing on you living space. Obviously not a hole lot, but a little none the less. Just make sure that you do everything to code. That is if you'll be having it inspected. I suggest doing so. The government wants your money. If you try to get by them they can not only make you undo all that you've do, they can also fine you heavily as well. I would assume that you will have to use wire-mold or a similar products. I have wired many new houses and I have never heard of trunking. Maybe I'll look in to it. I personally would have to oppose to your idea. On the other hand I say go for it if that's what you want. Good luck.
- Q: i was working on this car and somehow crossed these wires and it starting smoking really bad under the dashwell the lady had her dog in the car .to say the least the doors locked and flames were rolling by the kick panelwe couldnt get the dog out in time.is there a way to get my license back.i really like to work on cars
- YOU my friend, are the unluckiest guy I have ever heard of! In 25 years of working on cars, I have NEVER heard of anyone losing their ASE certification. My guess is you won't get it back, because they must have found you seriously negligent to take such a severe step against you. If you feel you have been unjustly punished, contact an attorney. You may have grounds for legal action. the initial appointment is usually free, and sometimes you pay nothing unless your attorney wins. Good luck to you. That is an awful thing to happen to a professional mechanic.
- Q: I have a '49 ford truck, w/350 v8 Chevy engine. The fan is currently hot wired straight to the battery. How do I connect it to the ignition so the fan goes off when I shut off the engine?
- Install okorder
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1. Manufacturer Overview
| Location | Guangdong,China |
| Year Established | 2011 |
| Annual Output Value | US$50 Million - US$100 Million |
| Main Markets | 10.00% North America 10.00% South America 10.00% Eastern Europe 10.00% Southeast Asia 10.00% Domestic Market 10.00% Mid East 10.00% Eastern Asia 5.00% Western Europe 5.00% Central America 5.00% Northern Europe 5.00% Southern Europe 5.00% South Asia 5.00% Africa |
| Company Certifications | ISO 9001:2008;ISO 14001:2004;CE;ROHS |
2. Manufacturer Certificates
| a) Certification Name | |
| Range | |
| Reference | |
| Validity Period |
3. Manufacturer Capability
| a) Trade Capacity | |
| Nearest Port | Shenzhen,Hongkong |
| Export Percentage | 51% - 60% |
| No.of Employees in Trade Department | 6-10 People |
| Language Spoken: | English, Chinese, Japanese, Korean |
| b) Factory Information | |
| Factory Size: | 1,000-3,000 square meters |
| No. of Production Lines | 5 |
| Contract Manufacturing | OEM Service Offered Design Service Offered Buyer Label Offered |
| Product Price Range | Low and/or Average |
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Cat5 UTP Lan Cable
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1000 Meters m
- Supply Capability:
- 600000 Meters per Day m/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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