• EAZ Series Close-coupled End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • EAZ Series Close-coupled End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • EAZ Series Close-coupled End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 3
EAZ Series Close-coupled End Suction Centrifugal Pump

EAZ Series Close-coupled End Suction Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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General introduction of EAZ Series Close-coupled End Suction Centrifugal Pump

EAZ series close coupled end suction centrifugal pumps offer close coupled design for space saving and simplified maintenance. They are driven by IEC standard motor, much shorter in length thus takes less space to install. 

Applications of EAZ Series Close-coupled End Suction Centrifugal Pump    
1. Heating, ventilation and air-conditioning
2. Fire Protection and Fire Fighting
3. Water circulation
4. Liquid transfer
5. Irrigation  
6. Cooling  
7. Booster service

 

Parameters of EAZ Series Close-coupled End Suction Centrifugal Pump    

Flow Range:2~700m3/h

Head Range:2~152m

Power Range:0.55-250KW

Temperature:-10℃~105℃

Material:Cast Iron, stainless steel, bronze

Work Pressure:≤1.6MPa 

 

 FAQ

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

A: It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

Q: If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

A: You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.

Q: Do you have pumps with grinders?

A: Yes, the WQ models.

 

EAZ Series Close-coupled End Suction Centrifugal Pump

Q: I'm building a 79 SBC (old style) 350 and have a new stock water pump...what hose and where does it go from the top of the water pump to wherever? Heater hose? Or can I just leave it plugged. No A/C I just need a heater/defroster, etc...
As a rule Chevy used two different sizes of heater hoses the one from the water pump should be 3/4 hose and the one from the top of the intake manifold should be 5/8. You should be able to see the different in sizes with the naked eye, they should go to the heater core inlet and outlet on the right side of your engine compartmant. (which is the passenger side)
Q: Does the IP55 indicate the lift on the water pump nameplate?
IP is INGRESS PROTECTION, that is, protection level,IP protection class is composed of two numbers, first numbers, from the lighting level to prevent intrusion of foreign objects, second numbers represent the tightness of anti moisture, waterproof lamp intrusion, the larger the number the higher the level of protection.Therefore, the pump IP refers to the pump with its own motor dust and waterproof level
Q: I have a 2000 dodge 1500 the water pump is leaking and the belt is real squeaky. Are these related?
pump quites or slows causing overheating or heat increased in the motor causing the belt to wear more on the hot pullys get a new pump or fix it and just replace the belt
Q: I have a water leak, and not from the radiator. It is on the side of the motor where the timing belt is. Could it be the water pump? or possibly freeze plugs? If so where are these?
Its located under the timing belt cover. Time to replace both the belt and water pump while you or your technician are in there. $500 at dealers typically.
Q: It is a 110 shallow well pump for my water source to the house.
The pump will turn on when it detects a loss of prepressuren the system or if there is a bad foot valve in the well. A bad foot valve lets water back into the well thus lowering the pressure in the system. An overlooked problem may be found in the toilets and is sometimes undetectable unless you take the tank top off, flush the toilet and wait for it to fill and listen for any hissing noises coming from the fill valve or if the water level in the tank is too high which will allow water to go down the over flow tube after the tank is full and will kick the pump back on after a while. Check for drippy faucets including your outside hose bibs. I deal with this on a regular basis and it is a simple fix more times than not. Good Luck!
Q: I tried using my water line with a pressure tank and pressure switch but without a pressure tank I observed that when he pressure reaches 30 psi the motor pump switches off automatically and when we open the faucets to use water the pressure switch turns on again the motor pump.
rodolfo, no its not economical. a pressure tank is an integral part of a pressure system - think of it as a storage tank allowing you to use water at a preset pressure without running out instantly. a pressure tank will hold a certain amount of pressurized water to allow proper use -
Q: What things in my car could the seizing of my water pump cause? As I stated in another question, the power steering went, the red battery light came on and it over heated. The mechanic said it seized and i'm lucky the engine didn't seize. He has to look into it more. I'm just really curious as to what kind of damage i've done and the possibilities! thanks in advance.
If your car has a Surpenteen belt : 1 long belt runs all the componets If one of the components locks up (normally the belt will sling or break) and every thing else that is belt driven , becomes disabled. And the lights will come on.
Q: I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Raider that I'm pretty sure needs a new water pump. It is still under warranty for another 1000 miles, but the nearest dealer is over 200 miles away, and Mitsubishi says they won't reimburse for work done at a non-Mitsubishi Dealer. I'm trying to figure out if the cost of just paying someone to have it done here in town versus having towed 200 miles and then driving it back, plus the lost cost of missed work.By the way my Mitsubishi Roadside Assistance will tow it to the nearest dealer for free, but last time I did that it was barely worth the hassle of dealing with their very poor contract towers.
Have you asked the dealer to send you the part at least? Call Mitsubishi and ask it that would be possible, you never know. You could send in the old pump and possibly get compensation. Keep your bills. Discuss it with them. Your dealer should provide you with the area Mitsubishi representatives contact information. The prices for those can be expensive. Ask the dealer, service dept, for the labour, how many hrs. to change the pump. They should tell you. Also for the cost of the pump. Add the two together and you have your ans. Join CAA, or AAA, get a gold card, wait two days for the card's towing to take effect, then have it towed in on the card. Done all the time. Or if you have a relative with a Gold card they can have it towed in as long as they are with the car with their card when the tow truck comes.
Q: 3 months ago I had to replace the water pump on my Jeep (for $600!!!). Now I have leaking again and they are telling me that I need a new radiator. I'm wondering how did they know I needed a water pump last time (it was leaking just like now) and not a new radiator like they're saying this time? I know nothing about anything, and I feel like I'm not informed enough to know what they're really doing. Is this common?
Could be both. The water pump may have been leaking. Did the leak stop after the work was done? If so then it was leaking. The radiator may just have lived out it's life. Corrosion will eventually cause these types of things. I don't know where you're located but $600 for a water pump is a rip off. Maybe you went to the dealer? If it's not under a warranty and you're not buying a new one the jeep does not belong at the dealership. I recently did my water pump on my 94. $100 including new hoses and about 45 minutes. So even parts mark up and $60 labor should have been about $210 or so. For the radiator they are about $150 again depending on where you are. See if you can get a 3 core. More cooling capacity almost the same price. If you're around Maryland e-mail me and I can help you do it yourself.
Q: i know a little bout cars always fixed my own since day one but this is the first car i have ever had/workd on with a internal water but thats driven off timeing chain my cars running hot and its holding prusser so i know its not radator or hoses but i need to know a way to check and make sure its the water pump befor i go tearing the engine apart
In the olden days when the fan was attached to the front of the water pump,you could hold the fan by either side and see if it moves at all.If theres movement of the shaft then that usually means the bearings are worn.The more it moves the worse it is.Not much help if you got thermo fans though.

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