• End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series System 1
  • End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series System 2
  • End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series System 3
End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series

End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
200 set/month

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XAZ Series Close Coupling End Suction Centrifugal Pump

General description End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series
The pump mounting dimensions to meet ISO 2858;Design pressure up to 1.6MPa; Seal cavities construction is suitable for both mechanical seal and soft packing seal; All the chemical pump parts are stainless steel precision casting and good appearance. To match different liquid application, material can be Cast Iron, Stainless steel and bronze alloy…etc.

 

Technical data of End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series
Capacity:Q:8-1080m3/h
Head:H:5-100m
Max Working Pressure:1.6MPa
Max Operating Temperature:120℃
Rotation Direction: from the driven end, the pump rotating direction is CW

 

Model meaning of End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series
XAZ 100/40A
XAZ –XAZ Series Close Coupling End Suction Centrifugal Pump
100 - Disharge Diameter (mm)
40 –Impeller Diameter divided by 10
A- Impeller Trimmed Code

 

Applications of End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series
Civil, Chemical industry, Metallurgy, Light industry.
Such as : Buildings, water works, irrigation, HVAC ; oil processing, Steel industry, silver-smelting, copper-smelting, iron-smelting, Tin-smelting, aluminium -smelting, zinc-smelting…etc non-ferrous metal smelting. Foodstuff, pharmacy, drink water, clean water, alcohol, desalination of sea water and water treatment

 

FAQ of End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series

1. Are your pumps protected against dry running?

No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

2. How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

5. Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

 

 

Q: i need the location of the water pump or for the thermostat thank you
The water pump is timing belt driven and is under the plastic timing cover on passenger side. These water pumps have a history of breaking, due to the fact they have a plastic impeller and it shears off the shaft, which causes the engine to overheat. First you want to remove the thermostat and then check the water pump. Follow the lower radiator hose to where it connects to the engine. That flange is where the thermostat is at. After you remove the thermostat you can shine a light in the hole and put your finger in there, if the impellar of the water pump moves, it needs to be replaced. If it does, then you might as well replace the timing belt and tensioner, seeing how you have to remove it to get the water pump off.
Q: What are the categories of pumps?
First, select the pump to meet the requirements of the headThe so-called head refers to the required lift, and not lift the water height, clear this point, the choice of water pumps is particularly important. Pump lift is about 1.15 to 1.20 times the height of lifting water. If the vertical height of a water source to the water is 20 meters, the required lift is about 23~24 meters. When selecting a pump, the pump head should be close to the required head, and the general deviation is not more than 20%. In this case, the efficiency of the pump is the highest, and it is more energy efficient, and the use will be more economical. If the lift on the nameplate is much smaller than the required lift, the pump can not meet the needs of users, even if the water can be pumped, the water is also very poor. But in turn, the high lift pump for low head, there will be heavy traffic, resulting in motor overload, if long time operation, the motor temperature, the winding insulation layer will gradually aging, and even burning motor.Two, select the appropriate flow pumpWater pump flow, that is, the amount of water is generally not too large election, otherwise it will increase the cost of water pumps. Should be selected as needed, such as the use of the user's family self-priming pump, the flow should be chosen as small as possible; if users use the submersible pump irrigation, you can properly select a larger flow.
Q: okay i observed and found out my water pump is leaking from a hole in it. after doing research i am told this is where it usually is suppose to leak from. anyway i read instructions for my car(92 fwd celica) and they say people have to remove the fan or something. my pump is under my alternator so i dk what fan they speak of. the only fan i see is by my radiator. all i see is remove the alternator(did it before) and remove the pump. is this correct. help.
You just need to remove the belt then remove the pump and any hoses connected to it the fan is fine where it is.
Q: I think my water pump has crapped out on my 1997 Jeep Cherokee. I have been leaking coolant for a few days now and there is a puddle under my Jeep after I turn it off and my reserve tank keeps emptying out on me. I replaced the lower radiator hose and still the same problem. It is not over heating so I am wondering if it IS a water pump problem? If it is, could I do the work myself?
It does sound like the water pump. There is a weep hole on the pump body (behind the pulley). You can run your finger on the bottom side of the pump where the pulley shaft goes into the pump housing - it will be wet if there has been leakage. Replacement of the water pump is not all that difficult. You can call any parts store to get the cost of the pump. While you are in there, replace the serpentine belt that drives the pump and go ahead and replace the radiator hoses (that you haven't already replaced plus the heater hoses and any rubber item touching the coolant flow (this will save your having to look at it again anytime soon). I have replaced a lot of water pumps in my time, and it is not a huge job. You can get a manual at AutoZone or any parts store to help walk you through it. Good luck.
Q: Suppose the liquid temperature range for the water pump is -20 .. 90 °C. However it should be worked under liquid temperature upto 180 °C. For this, what has to to be done?
YOu need to provide sufficient inlet pressure so that cavitation does not occur.
Q: I just bought a house a little more then a month ago and just received my first electric bill and it's OUTRAGEOUS!! I have a feeling my electric pump is doing most of my water heating which I found out it is (currently it's on 24 hours a day .. I didn't know). Now, I called a solar company in my area that deals with Hartell pumps, they said if the Hartell pump is working, it should be vibrating .. mines is not .. are they correct? They also said it only works when the sun is out, so by evening, I have to switch on my electric water heater. I'm just checking to see if I'm receiving the correct information before I time my electric water heater .. since every other local solar company I called are unfamiliar with Hartell pumps.
OK, well your question is a bit confusing and I am not sure if it is because you don't understand how your system works. Your hartell pump pumps water. It does not produce heat. Your water heater heats water. It is a backup to your solar panel system. If on the other hand you have a heat pump as a back up source of heat this could be an entirely different matter and you are best at providing a model number which should be stamped on the part. We need to start again. Is your system for solar hot water or for general heating? Is it a system in a cold climate where freezing is an issue. Is it a pump down system or a system that circulates antifreeze in the solar loop. The reason all this is significant is that if you are paying a lot in electricity then something is not working. The first question has to be is it a design problem, a mechanical problem or an operational problem. You may need more hot water storage or more solar panels, you may need to replace parts, or you may simply need to turn the right valves (This would be the case where you have a grounding loop to keep the solar panels from overheating in the summer.)
Q: Water pump located on the ground floor of our 10 story building is leaking and therefore it is constantly running and spilling water into the parking lot. Therefore, a plumber shut the water pump off and opened a bypass valve.After we shut off water pump all units still have good water pressure so why do we need to replace water pump?When water pump is on the incoming city water gauge reads 60psi and the gauge measuring the water shooting up into the building reads 80psi. Now both gauges read zero.How can water coming from the city at 60psi travel all the way to the 10th floor without a boost? I do not understand what is happening.
Naturally okorder /
Q: School project. My group cannot find this answer.
Either from the HP needed to run or the output in GPM.
Q: I have a 2001 2500HD duramax and it is leaking antifreeze under the truck. I leaks a a drop every second what could be causing this
If you can narrow down the location to being from the actual water pump and not a line, It would be the seal in the water pump. The only option is to replace the water pump.
Q: my water pump is leaking how do i change it out
Pull your belts off and the fan, clutch assembly if there is one. Undo those eight or so bolts that hold the pump on and swap it for a new one. Drain the coolant first or you'll have a mess on your hands. You don't always have to remove the radiator but sometimes that gives you more clearance to work with.

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