End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series

End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series System 1

End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 200 set/month

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XAZ Series Close Coupling End Suction Centrifugal Pump

General description End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series
The pump mounting dimensions to meet ISO 2858；Design pressure up to 1.6MPa； Seal cavities construction is suitable for both mechanical seal and soft packing seal; All the chemical pump parts are stainless steel precision casting and good appearance. To match different liquid application, material can be Cast Iron, Stainless steel and bronze alloy…etc.

Technical data of End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series
Capacity：Q：8-1080m3/h
Head：H：5-100m
Max Working Pressure：1.6MPa
Max Operating Temperature：120℃
Rotation Direction: from the driven end, the pump rotating direction is CW

Model meaning of End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series
XAZ 100/40A
XAZ –XAZ Series Close Coupling End Suction Centrifugal Pump
100 - Disharge Diameter (mm)
40 –Impeller Diameter divided by 10
A- Impeller Trimmed Code

Applications of End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series
Civil, Chemical industry, Metallurgy, Light industry.
Such as : Buildings, water works, irrigation, HVAC ; oil processing, Steel industry, silver-smelting, copper-smelting, iron-smelting, Tin-smelting, aluminium -smelting, zinc-smelting…etc non-ferrous metal smelting. Foodstuff, pharmacy, drink water, clean water, alcohol, desalination of sea water and water treatment

FAQ of End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series

1. Are your pumps protected against dry running?

No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

2. How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

5. Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

Q: It is known that it takes an hour to pump water, and also to know the head. How does the pump power need to be calculated? What's the formula?: A 15kw pump, know how to calculate the head pumping water for an hour (if the head is 10 meters)Lift: MFlow rate: kg / sec (general water pump is cubic / hour, if 10 cubic hour / hour: 2.7 kg / sec)Efficiency: average 60%15000/102*0.6=88 kilograms per second88/10=8.8 kg / sec8.8*3600=31680 kg / h=31.6 cubic / hour

Q: Looking for a pro's advice here. My Corolla has developed a strange noise over the past few cold weeks (Highs of 10 degrees max, well below zero at night). The sound would best be described as a cricket-type rythmic chirp noticable during acceleration. I don't believe it's a belt because it comes and goes though it has steadily gotten louder. I vaguely remember this sound being related to a bad water pump I had a few years ago. Do you think this could be the same thing? Three years for a water pump? And do water pumps tend to go out more frequently in the cold weather? Thanks!!!: timing belt

Q: Is pumping water, the new pump is also this problem, the pump is also working, that is, no water, at night I opened, in the installation of water, second days also make it to noon is not so good: This fully automatic self-priming pump, if there is no water, there are 4,A. The air in the pump cavity is exhausted. The solution is to unscrew the copper screw on the pump body,Two. Water pipe leakage solution, check the joints and piping to ensure reliable sealingThree. At the end of the valve or three does not open or there is a serious blockage, solutions to check the bottom valve goods three psychic activity,Four. Leakage of seal in pump, adjust or replace the sealWhat's more, you feel that there is a leak in your water inlet. Check the three pass on the water inlet of the water pump. Think of this fully automatic pump. The switch for your tap water can be kept open all the time

Q: What are the parameters of the pump price?: The first point: brand, manufacturers are generally different, the price difference is relatively large, the brand effect and quality of this.The second point: motor model and matching pump model, the general power is greater, the higher the price.The third point: special requirements, such as: to achieve a special lift, or special flow, special materials, special maintenance period, the rate of special accidents. The price is higher than the usual model.Basically, these are the pumps that determine the price of the pump. In fact, the same manufacturer, the power difference is not too large, there is no special requirements, the price is basically the same, the reason manufacturers do not the same price, is a marketing strategy, in fact, the cost is the same.

Q: I recently bought a 01 firebird trans am. was doing some maintenance on it. basic stuff, tune up, serpentine belt, break flush, and a coolant flush. I didn't notice any leakage in the car, and neither did any mechanics before. Last week when i did all these basic maintenance i went back to check up on one more thing. The mechanic raised my car up and asked when I'm replacing my water pump.Seeing that it was leaking...but the liquid wasn't green, more or less brown and it didn't have any particular smell, but its not coming from the oil pan. What I'm thinking is that maybe the hoses were completely tightened? All help would be appreciated! thank you!: G.M. uses Dexcool and it's a orange reddish color. If not flushed at manufacturer recommended intervals it can wreak havoc on the cooling system as well as having the ability to eat water pump gaskets and restrict cooling system passages. There's alot of class action law suits regarding the dreaded Dexcool. Usually however when the waterpump goes you'll hear a roaring type sound when the engine is running as well as there would be some play in the waterpump shaft contributing to the sound it might make. If it doesn't leak from the gasket then it will be froim the weep hole on the bottom of the pump that let's go over time. Have the cooling system pressure tested so you can pin point where it's leaking instead of guessing and wasting money throwing parts at it, Good luck and hope this helps.

Q: I have a Goulds JPlus water pump inside my home. Last night, my wife and I heard it going on and off repeatedly when we went to bed. I have two shallow wells hooked up to it, so I switched wells even though I didn't believe the one I was on was dry (it was supplying H2O fine).Still no luck, so I turned it off at the breaker and shut off the valve between the tank and pressure switch. Today, the pump pressure gets to between 50 and 60, then goes off. It then loses pressure v ery quickly (approx 10-20 seconds) and goes back on when the pump switch hits the lower threshold. It sounds like the water is running back through the pump and out of the house when it goes off unless I turn the shut off valve I spoke of earlier. I changed the pressure switch and no difference.I can, however, turn it on and shower, flush, etc. I just then have to go down and turn the pump back off.Any help would be greatly appreciated!: Tommy is correct in saying that a proper air bubble in the top of the water storage tank is needed to provide a slowly declining pressure on the system as water is withdrawn. But if no water is being withdrawn inside the house then a check valve preventing a backflow through the pump discharge and allowing loss of water in the pipelines to the individual wells is leaking. It needs to be replaced.

Q: I was vacuuming up water from my basement I assumed was from the rain, suddenly water started spraying out of a blue pump at the base of my furnace, don't know what the pump does or why its spraying but its making an awful mess.: Blue pump, usually found on the floor near the furnace (sometimes mounted where plenum meets the furnace frame) is a condensate pump. One of the products of combustion is water. This water is drained from the ventor motor (a motor which runs and sets a artificial draft inside the combustion chamber) to a drain nearby or a electric pump which then pumps the water over a longer distance to a remote drain. If the pump's discharge outlet gets plugged from dirt the result is usually the mess you see. Remove the cover plate of the pump housing, clean it out and run a wire with a small rag attached as a snake through the tube to drain. There is usually some type of float switch inside the pump housing so make sure it is free to move. Check for operation by pouring some tap water in it and move the float switch to on (up) One final note and this is very important. If the pump or tube to drain is filled up with a crud that resembles paste, call your local trusted HVAC tech for furnace service. This condition can be an early sign of heat exchanger failure and is a major safety concern for your family

Q: Is a 3000 watt generator sufficient to power a 3/4 horsepower water pump?My house has a 3/4 horsepower pump that it uses to pump water from the well to the house. I want to purchase a generator that will be sufficient to power this pump in a power outage. Is 3000 Watts sufficient?: 1 hp is 746 watts; however start up and power factors need to be considered. A 0.75 hp motor at steady state draws 560 watts at steady state; to overcome start up assume you will need about 1,100 watts (1.1 KW). Your generator is 3 KW so it should do well.

Q: My car randomly decided to dump fluids the other day. Now, the engine overheats after 5 minutes of driving it and the check engine light comes on. I put more coolant in it and noticed it began to drip underneath the car. I'm hoping it's a leak but being my car is 10 years old and I've never replaced either the water pump or the head gasket I figure it's about due time unfortunately. About how much would this cost me to have done at the garage?: The waterpump should run you around !$150 or less at most garages, -- about $45 maybe- if you do it yourself! The headgasket will probably cost you around 3-5 hundred depending on how much labor charge is! As it is possible that the head is warped and may need re-surcfaced to make it flat again --- and of course cost is going to depend on how much damage was done, -determined by how hot it got before you shut it down! The head gasket etc. shouldn't run much more htan $125-150 Now if it runs ok,-- and doesn't overheat when the radiator is full of water, -- even after warming up and driving on road for a few ninutes, -- (if leak fairly small - it will take some time to get down low enough to cause heat buildup)! I'd say 5 miles on highway would prove it is not warped head!! -- Just keep eye on temp and shut down if it starts getting close to overheat--- to avoid increasing damage, - if head gasket out! In yard, you can get pretty good idea, by just filling up raidator, and leaving cap off with engine running-- after it has idled for a few minutes, (and you have topped it up a couple times to make sure it is full of water, -- if gasket leaking it will blow continueous bubbles, -- after the thermostat opens, a little water will rise and run over (expansion of water) ). -- ****However it should not contionue blowing any continueaous bubbles--- (continued large quantities of bubbles indicates compression being blown into water jacket from bad headgsket!) ...A small bubble now and then is negligeable, as a bubble or two may still be trapped from when water level was down! You will know when thermostat opens, as there will be moving water obvious through filler neck of radiator, and the upper hose will become hot going into radiator! It is also possible that you may see oil on water if headgasket leaking, as well as water in oil-- which would be sort fo fuzzy yellowish looking junk on dipstick, and oil fill cap!

Q: I have a toyota supra 83 Mechanic said water pump is leaking into engine causing white smoke. He said that hell have to replace water pump nd all gaskets estimated about 500+$ is this accurate? Also water resevoir mysteriously loses water can it be a symptom?: The water pump may be leaking causing the coolant loss. But it is certainly not leaking into the engine. You may have misunderstood the mechanic's explanation of the problem. Where is the white smoke coming from? The engine compartment? Then the water pump may actually be leaking coolant into the engine compartment and onto the exhaust manifold. If the white smoke is coming out the exhaust, it's not your water pump. Car repairs are more expensive today because they are more complex and shops prey on the lack of knowledge that car owner's have about their cars. You wil be charged for the VALUE of the repair, not the actual COST (plus a reasonable profit) of repair. You'll pay about 2x-3x the retail price of the water pump than you would have paid if you bought the water pump yourself. Without that water pump, your car is junk. My daughter paid $700+ to have a $149 alternator replaced.

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