• Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability System 1
  • Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability System 2
  • Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability System 3
Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability

Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability

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Loading Port:
China main port
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
300 unit/month

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Introduction of Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability

CZ series standard chemical pumps are horizontal, single stage, end suction type centrifugal pumps, in accordance with standards of DIN24256, ISO2858, GB5662, they are basic products of standard chemical pump, transferring liquids like low or high temperature, neutral or corrosive, clean or with solid, toxic and inflammable etc.

Working conditons of Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability

Capacity: ~2000 m3/h 
Head: ~160 m 
Working pressure: ~2 .5 MPa 
Working temperature: -80ºC~+150 ºC 
Rotation direction: CW viewed from drive end


Application of Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability

Mainly for chemical or petrol chemical area 
Refinery or steel plant 
Power plant 
Making of paper, pulp, pharmacy, food, sugar etc. 
Refinery 
Petrochemical industry 
Coal processing industry and low temperature projects 


Characterstics of Chemical Process Pump CZ Series of High Anticorrosive Ability

Hydraulic performance Spiral casing, single channel or double channel structure, to keep low NPSH, wide range of performance curve, stable operation, low noise, high pump efficiency, energy consu- mption saving.
Support Feet support can bear loads from outside and pass the load directly to the base. Thin oil lubrication for the bearings, constant bit oil cup control oil level, ensures bearing well lubricated to have better life span.
Impeller type and balance of axial force Closed impeller for CZ series pumps, most of the axial force was supported by back vanes or balance-hole, the other by bearing.
Shaft seal structure According to different purpose, seal can be packing seal and mechanical seal. Flush plan of the pump seal can be decided in accordance with API682, to ensure safe seal for different work conditions.
Serialization and universal property This series of pumps have 6 types of bearing support, 40 pump models. Except impeller and casing, all other parts can be interchangeable, especially pump cover and shaft seal, they are in high standardization and versatility.
Maintenance Back pull-out structure and extended coupling, ensure easy and convenient maintenance, the whole rotor part can be pulled out from back, no need dismantling inlet and outlet pipes and motor.

Q: I just noticed a slight leak from my water pump. About the size of my fist. I called one mechanic and was told the 2001 BMW Z3's water pump seals are tight and do not leak with the car is running (engine is hot) but once the car cools the water pump seals expand resulting in the small leak, that I shouldn't worry about it unless it leaks more, the engine over-heats, or dash light turns on. The BMW said I should have the water pump replaced but he may have just said that to make a repair sale. Anyone out there know the truth?
Rarely do BMW water pumps leak a lot. Most would not even leak when pressure-tested by a mechanic (for a few minutes). But a leaky pump would leak when the engine runs and specially when it is pressurized and allowed to sit overnight. Usually the seal itself does not cause the leak. It is the wornout bearing which allows the pump's shaft to wobble and thus allow coolant to leak. Overheating due to air getting inside the cooling system is big trouble. But bigger trouble still is a catastrophic failure due to failed/seized water pump bearings. Have it replaced. And the previous statement that your car is about due for hoses and thermostat replacement is correct. There is even a chance that the thermostat is allowing the cooling system to get over-pressurized and thus results in coolant leaks. Replacing the pump is good, replacing the thermostat in addition is better, replacing also the hoses is best. If you can afford it.
Q: I need a 12v water pump capable of at least 40psi. The only website that i found is one where you have to order a minimum of 100.
Maybe at a sporting goods store.
Q: Hi, I own a 2004 chev. venture and the water pump is getting noisy (most likely the bearings) I priced a refurbished one online at $18 and am wandering if this is a task I could handle myself, or if I'd most likely screw it up
Te ASE will HUNT YOU DOWN, they are not an organization to trifle with! Seriously, it all depends on your degree of mechanical ability, and the info source you will use to do the job. If you go out and purchase a repair manual for your vehicle, then I would say yes, you can do that job yourself.
Q: I just bought a house a little more then a month ago and just received my first electric bill and it's OUTRAGEOUS!! I have a feeling my electric pump is doing most of my water heating which I found out it is (currently it's on 24 hours a day .. I didn't know). Now, I called a solar company in my area that deals with Hartell pumps, they said if the Hartell pump is working, it should be vibrating .. mines is not .. are they correct? They also said it only works when the sun is out, so by evening, I have to switch on my electric water heater. I'm just checking to see if I'm receiving the correct information before I time my electric water heater .. since every other local solar company I called are unfamiliar with Hartell pumps.
OK, well your question is a bit confusing and I am not sure if it is because you don't understand how your system works. Your hartell pump pumps water. It does not produce heat. Your water heater heats water. It is a backup to your solar panel system. If on the other hand you have a heat pump as a back up source of heat this could be an entirely different matter and you are best at providing a model number which should be stamped on the part. We need to start again. Is your system for solar hot water or for general heating? Is it a system in a cold climate where freezing is an issue. Is it a pump down system or a system that circulates antifreeze in the solar loop. The reason all this is significant is that if you are paying a lot in electricity then something is not working. The first question has to be is it a design problem, a mechanical problem or an operational problem. You may need more hot water storage or more solar panels, you may need to replace parts, or you may simply need to turn the right valves (This would be the case where you have a grounding loop to keep the solar panels from overheating in the summer.)
Q: Water pump quot;leakingbut not dripping anything. how important?my 04 tacoma has a quot;leaking water pumpquot;. I just see some pink fluid around the seals, nothing is dripping. toyota dealer didnt make a big deal about it, just said i should get it done soon. heck they didnt even tell me, i just saw it on the receipt.other mechanics said the same thing. quot;whenever u want to do it we'll do it.is it not an hugely important mechanism or what? how long can i go without doing it? the first symptom would be the engine getting a little hotter? its been like that for 5-6 months.
yea the water pump circulates coolant through the entire cooling system. if you wait until it fails completely, your engine will overheat. i would get it done as soon as possible to prevent further engine damage if it does happen to fail.
Q: can a water pump pumping out air instead of water?
# Water pumps are generally centrifugal pumps except few specific applications. #Centrifugal pump will not pump,untill and unless the the pump is properly primed [atleast ,casing upto impeller top should be fully submerged with water.] #Since the weight of water is approximately 8000 times that of air (50 miles vs. 34 feet or 80 Km. vs. 10 meters) the centrifugal pump can produce only 1/8000 of its rated liquid pressure. In other words, for every one foot water has to be raised to prime the pump, the centrifugal pump must produce a discharge head of approximately 8000 feet (each meter requires a head of 8000 meters) and that is impossible with conventional impeller diameters and speeds. *All of this means that if you intend to use a centrifugal pump you're going to have to come up with some sensible method of priming it. Your choices will include : *Install a foot valve in the suction piping to insure the liquid will not drain from the pump casing and suction piping when the pump stops. Keep in mind that these valves have a nasty habit of leaking. *Evacuate the air in the system with a positive displacement priming pump operating between the pump and a closed discharge valve. *Fill the pump with liquid prior to starting it. *Convert the application to a self priming pump that maintains a reservoir of liquid at its suction. # Also it is advisable to prime the positive displacement pump to run the pump smoothly, as if for some time it is pumping air,there will not be force balance which can cause damage to the pump spares.
Q: Where is the water pump located in a 1995 Toyota tacoma pick up truck. Please be as specific as possible as the the location of the pump. Like what is it undwr or next to...etc
Look at the fan and you'll see a pulley...it's attached behind that pulley. You're gonna have to remove the fan and shroud, remove the belt, remove the pulley and then remove the water pump, clean the gasket surface, and install the new one the same in reverse.
Q: My car overheats in hot temperatures I have try everything except replacing the water pump and radiator how can I tell when its time to change each one and is it a do-it-yourself job
Boomer is right in what to check first. but in this order. Check that the fan is working properly. Check that the radiator is clean and not clogged. Replace the thermostat. Replace the Water pump. Depending on the car/truck, is what dictates how hard it is to do. On older cars (a chevy 350) It takes 15 minutes for a novice to replace, On newer cars it varies greatly, as some are behind the timing belt and all other accesories,(plymouth breeze takes about 15hours for a novice) and some are just as easy as older cars.
Q: Earlier today I was driving and my car shut off at a stop sign. I got it to start again and it shut off at the next stop sign, so after a few minutes I got it to start again and immediately pulled over as there was a small amount of smoke coming from under my hood. The temp gauge didn't say it was overheating, but I think it mightve been stuck, because that had to be what happened. After sitting there for a while it started and stayed that way for a while, I let the engine run. I drove it to the gas station and put some coolant directly in the radiator and the resevoir, and almost all of it leaked right out. I started to drive it home and had to pull over about 6 times to let it cool down because it kept overheating( temp gauge showed it this time). I think its the water pump that is leaking, but I know very little about cars, and was wondering if it could be anything else? Also, the heater wasn't working in the car today at all.
The heater wasn't working because you were losing the coolant. If the cooling system is not full, the coolant won't circulate and warm coolant won't flow through the heater core. But the water pump on the Neon is not a known problem. I'm not saying that it's not the problem but it's not common. What I suggest you do is fill up the cooling system with water and start the engine. See if you can spot the fluid leaking out. If it is indeed the water pump, the pump is driven by the timing belt so the water would be leaking out at the bottom of the engine on the passenger side. If you don't see the coolant/water dripping out under the engine bay, it could be a bad head gasket and the coolant is disappearing inside the engine ( check under the oil cap, if it looks like a milkshake film under there, it can be the sign of a bad gasket ).
Q: 2000 Jetta GLX VR6Problems:- AC is no longer working- The Reader said quot;STOP!quot;CHECK COOLANTI pulled over and checked the Coolant and it was full- The Car will overheat to about 260 whenever I am sitting with the Engine Running- When I start the car its on Zero Degrees and then Slowly makes it way to 190 degrees which is in the middle quot;Normalquot;- Oil Seems to be fine---- What does this sound like to you??--- Also, The VW Dealer said I needed to be without my Car for Two days so I will drop it off Friday Night and leave it until Wednesday. Do you think it will last until Friday driving 60miles a day??-- If it is the Water Pump... How much do you *think* I am looking at paying? I am taking it to the VW Dealer b/c I have a Recall they need to fix too.
To be sure that its the water pump or not, try this simple practical procedure; 1. remove the coolant reservoir cover (the pressure tank) 2. make sure the water level in it is up to the recommended maximum level 3. start the engine, and see if water is returning to the water reservoir via the return hose/pipe, and if the water is moving down the inlet hose to the engine block 4. if water return to the resevoir via the return hose and water is moving down to the engine, the the water pump is fine. 5; check if your thermostat is not faulty, this can be responsible for abnormal measurement of the water temperature. 6. you used the word FULL, I hope u did not filled the resevoir to the top with water, above the maximum level? in that case you can get high temperature on your gauge. Goodluck. I am a mechanic

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