Disc Brake Auto Brake Disc 51712-2D310/31320car Brake

Disc Brake Auto Brake Disc 51712-2D310/31320car Brake System 1

Disc Brake Auto Brake Disc 51712-2D310/31320car Brake

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Product Details

Basic Info.

Certification:ECE

Type:Brake Discs

Material:Non-Asbestos

Position:Front

Export Markets:Global

Product Description

Brake disc
Standard: E-MARK
Origin: China
Features:
1) Hardness: 180-240HB
2) Long service life
3) 100% crucial dimension inspection
4) 100% qualification
5) Low noise
Standard for casting is G3000. Standard for machining is SAE-J431.
We use AIMCO# and OEM# and right now we have more than 1, 900 items that can be supplied to the aftermarket

AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#
3102	3438	5361	5588	8978	31163	31353
3104	3441	5362	5590	8979	31164	31354
3106	3444	5364	5593	8980	31165	31355
3107	3445	5365	5594	8981	31166	31356
3108	3446	5366	5595	8983	31168	31357
3110	3451	5367	5596	8984	31169	31358
3111	3452	5368	5598	8985	31170	31359
3112	3455	5370	5599	8986	31172	31360
3114	3457	5371	5601	8987	31173	31361
3116	3458	5372	5606	8988	31174	31362
3117	3459	5373	5607	8989	31175	31363
3118	3460	5374	5610	8990	31176	31364
3120	3462	5375	5614	8991	31177	31365
3122	3464	5376	5617	8992	31178	31366
3123	3466	5377	5618	8993	31179	31367
3124	3467	5378	5703	8994	31181	31368
3125	3468	5379	5704	8995	31182	31369
3126	3469	5381	5712	8996	31184	31370
3130	3470	5382	8101	8997	31185	31371
3132	3471	5383	8105	8998	31186	31372
3133	3472	5386	8106	8999	31188	31373
3134	3477	5387	8108	31000	31189	31374
3136	3479	5388	8109	31001	31192	31375
3137	3480	5389	8124	31002	31193	31376
3138	3482	5393	8141	31003	31197	31377
3140	3483	5394	8146	31004	31198	31378
3141	3485	5395	8147	31005	31199	31379
3146	3487	5396	8160	31006	31201	31380
3150	3488	5397	8163	31007	31202	31381
3151	3489	5398	8171	31008	31203	31382
3152	3497	5399	8173	31009	31204	31383
3153	3498	5401	8179	31010	31205	31384
3154	3502	5404	8190	31011	31208	31385

Disc Brake Auto Brake Disc 51712-2D310/31320car Brake

Q: I'm wondering if it's better to brake when slowing or to downshift and then brake? When I bought my first motorcycle I was told that I should always downshift then start braking as it was better for the bike. I didn't think about it then but these days I have been wondering. I am sure that downshifting saves on brake pads but is it harder on the engine?: Don't make your decision based on the cost of an inexpensive brake pad. You should decide on safety . The road surface is the most critical component.for instance, if your riding on the oil slick in the middle of the lane(which you are not suppose to do)and you down shift the let out the clutch.You put all the braking force on your one rear wheel with jerking action and it may slip.This applies to all slippery surface conditions,ice, gravel, sand on the road,wet, wet oil slick the worst. Then if you are going around a curve,with the above conditions and apply this sudden braking action on your rear wheel.Chances of your rear end sliding out from under you are greatly increased.And we would not want anything to happen to your rear end now would we(its one of my favorite parts of a woman).When using the brake you have better control of the braking force.now one argument FOR down shifting while stopping is.If you need to suddenly accelerate you will already be in the correct gear and will be able to respond more quickly.This is why some professonal driver trainer may suggest down shifting and he would be correct. But, that does not mean you have to use it for braking. . not because it is better for the bike.Go to a site with slippery conditions and try out diff. braking methods to see what works best .This may be useful someday when you have to jamb on the brakes. Most drivers will spill in an emergency stop because they dont train or practice emergency stopping used a balance of both brakes. Screw the pads they are cheap and you are not. and take good care of your rear end,Yes.

Q: I have a motorcycle made by Bajaj.It‘s 3 months old and run 2500 kilometers.I handle it gently and have never dropped or crashed it.Two days back, the bike developed handling problems at the front end.The handle bars feels heavy and refuses to turn.It‘s as if the handle is welded to the chassis.The problem is at it‘s worst between speeds of 10-20 km/hr.The bike is also pulling to either sides when grabbing the front brake.Negotiating roundabouts has become risky.The bike just wants to go straight rather than turning and i have to muscle it back to my correct path.It was not like this just a week ago.What could be the problem?.The air pressure on both tyres are perfect.The front disks are not dragging either.Is it something related to forks or bearings?.Do the bearings get tight automatically?.: assuming you have not had the wheel out, first check your wheel nut is tight / then put your bike on the centre stand get someone to push down on the back so your front wheel is of the ground now get hold of your wheel at the top one hand at the bottom now pull with one hand as you push with the other then do the opposite with each hand is there play if so its your wheel bearings, while the bike is up go to the front get hold of the wheel in the central position gentle knock it to the left it should just go straight to the stop then do the same to the right , if it is tight it could be the lock ring has tightened up a bit just easy it of a fraction until the wheel will move freely left right, then get hold of the front wheel while in central position pull towards you then push away from you if there is play head bearings are to lose, , now if you nip them up it goes tight your head bearings are shot or some have fallen out you need new ones hope this helps you sot it

Q: mainly riding during traffic or crowded public area?: In slow traffic or similar wherer you're travelling less than 10mph you're better off leaving the front brake well alone. The back brake (in such circumstances) is more than adquate, gentler and doesn't have the tendency to affect steering. At higher speeds (but you're slowing to a slow crawl rather than stopping), then primarily your front brake should be used to shave the excess with a little bit of back brake until you're down to 10.

Q: A motorcycle is travelling in a straight line at 150km/hour, and brakes to bring it to rest in 4.5 seconds. The road wheels have an effective radius of 340mm. Determine the number of revolutions made by the wheels in the total braking time. [Please provide solution and Answer, much appreciated]: I'm not an expert but I think it's depriving the fire of oxygen, suffocating it, if you will.

Q: Please don‘t advise me to take the MSF or anything like that. I am planning on taking it as soon as possible (in the next 2-3 months or so), but excrutiating circumstances require me to get my class M license before I do so. I already know that if I complete the MSF, then I can waive the driving portion of my test to get my class M.What should I expect for this driving test? I have read around and noticed that most people who have taken their test take it right there at the DMV, on a small course they have in the back.However, when I was told what I needed to perform the test, I was told that I needed to bring (along with my motorcycle) a car that was insured and registered, so the instructor could follow me. Now why would they need to follow me if I were merely driving around in the back of their parking lot?Does anyone know what I should be expecting for this test? Will it be a combination of driving on the street AND driving their little test course?Thanks!: I live in Tx. I have been at 3 motorcycle driving tests in Tx. Mine, my wifes, and my best friends. All three tests were held on city streets and highways, and in all three tests, the instructor said to bring a licensed, inspected, and insured car and a licensed driver for the car. The instructor will then advise the rider being tested of the route to follow, or will tell the rider to watch the rearview mirrors for blinker signals from the following car. The instructor will then ride in the car which will be driven by the person you bring with you and follow the rider over the test route. They will be looking for proper use of turn signals, brakes, and general ability to operate the motorcycle. It is very important to use head checks, or swivel your head at intersections to look left and right. They can fail you if they don't see your head turn to look for traffic at an intersection. They can also fail you if you stall the bike on take off form any stop. Hope this helps. Good luck, and see ya on the road.

Q: I am 17. I drive a stock Honda CBR600RR and its is great 2011 model. I was riding with some guys and one guy had a respol or ABS CBR600RR bike, i didnt know what that meant. He said it was tunes up. Now i now the regular amount about motorcycles, i love them and ride my cbr winter snow rain hot cold slippery dry evry day all year, i know im crazy but hey. And when i rode his bike it was so much like undescribable. Better braking better handeling same model bike? SO i never got his number. I was wondering what type of mods can i put on my bike to improve performance. And where can i buy them or look at em? Thanks!: The Repsol is just a paint scheme. He must have done considerable other work. The list of possible modifications is endless--as is the amount you can spend (or waste) on them. Consult a motorcycle shop about upgrades. A friend of mine put carbon fibre wheels on his CBR600. It improved the handling a lot--for $8,000. Anything is possible, for a price.

Q: Just looking for some possible explanations for this before I bring it to a mechanic (so I don‘t get taken for a ride). I am brand new to motorcycles, and received this bike from a friend. It is in excellent condition, and runs great, except just this past week the front brakes started squeaking loudly when the brake is NOT engaged. It happens when walking with the bike, and when riding - its loud, and is not constant, but comes in a 1-2 second on/off patten. It seems to lessen when I brake. Some friends suggested its a brake warning detector, but that seems like it would engage when the brakes are applied. Any help would be appreciated.Thanks.: Before you spray WD-40 on anything remember that it is a lubricant and the last thing you want on your disc or pads (it will contaminate the latter). The favourite suspect is a slight seizure on the calipers, they need to be cleaned, unbolt them from the fork, remove the pads (check they are within acceptable wear, there should be a visible groove) and using pressure on the front brake push the pistons out, if they are mucky a good clean with brake cleaner should loosen it, use a brush to get it into the awkward spots and clean with a clean dry cloth. If there is stuck on dried on muck you can use emery paper but be very gentle you do not want to score the outside of the piston. Ultimately the calipers will need to be dismantled and properly serviced, probably requiring new seals. I would suspect a warped disc among other things – put the bike on a stand so that the front wheel is off the ground, attach a pencil or similar to the fork leg with some tape so that it is almost touching the disc, spin the wheel and watch to see if the disc gets closer or further to the pencil. A warped disc (unless it is a irreplaceable classic) is not worth repairing, new ones should be available. It could also be that the back of the pads need a blob of copper grease – this used to be the case with all older calipers but is not necessary now, unbolt the caliper, remove the pad, grease up the back of the pad and replace – NB again you do not want grease on the face of the pad. Last possible is that there is brake dust on the face of the disc and it just needs cleaning off.

Q: There was a bill put forth in Florida giving stiff penalties (and confiscation) of motorcycles going more than 30MPH over the speed limit.What is your opinion? Should these bikes be banned, or should they have special licensing, or what? You tell me!: Wow, foolishness if I ever heard it before. The actual stats show, if you take the time to read them that new riders are the dangerous ones. A kid on a rocket and a 50 year old on a harley have nearly identical accident rates. What would you like to do, ban all new riders. I have been riding sportbikes for nearly a decade and have yet to go down, which many of the people on here do/did in there first year. I know one of the biggest harley honkers on here totaled a few bikes on the short time I have known about this site, should we ban those bikes and or rider demographic. I do not think so. I noticed an equally foolish question about baning Harley's earlier and can only hope this is in response to that one, not an actual opinion.

Q: Today I fell on my motorcycle and had to carry it down a street back home (sucked) because it wouldn‘t turn on afterwards. I fell because as I was turning, I realized my turn was too wide and I was going to hit a car coming at me, so I braked and ended up falling the direction I was turning. Anyone have tips on how to turn better? I was going more than 20 mph so I was pushing down on my right handlebar.: Yes, the caster and camber as well as the toe adjustment can change after installing new struts.Its always good to make sure alignment is ok.

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