• Ceramic Auto Brake Pads for Cadillac Escalade System 1
  • Ceramic Auto Brake Pads for Cadillac Escalade System 2
  • Ceramic Auto Brake Pads for Cadillac Escalade System 3
Ceramic Auto Brake Pads for Cadillac Escalade

Ceramic Auto Brake Pads for Cadillac Escalade

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Auto parts: 

brake pads

Position: 

Front Axle

PAGID: 

C1004

VALEO: 

541679

WVA: 

29108/29109/29163

FMSI: 

D1203-8323

FERODO: 

FDB1313

Rate: 

EE&FF

Test: 

Link &Greening Test

 Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:

Neutral Packing, ANTEC Packing, Client's Packing. Corrugated Box,Wooden case,Pallet.

Delivery Detail:

30-45days

Specifications

Brake pads 
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement 
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

    Crossing Reference Number

Application

FMSI

D1203-8323

FERODO

FDB1313

Scania   

 

Benz 

 

Man 

 

Iveco 

 

DAF

WVA

29087

WVA

29059

WVA

29106

WVA

29105

WVA

29062

WVA

29061

WVA

29060

WVA

29046

WVA

29045

WVA

29042

WVA

29202

WVA

29201

WVA

29179

WVA

29163

WVA

29109

WVA

29108

O.E.M.

0034201620

O.E.M.

0024204920

O.E.M.

082135100

O.E.M.

0044202220

O.E.M.

2992348

O.E.M.

1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design. 

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

 

 

 

 

Q: I am a new motorcyclist and was just wondering if there were any emergency procedures for this. Our first reaction is to press on the brakes but on a motorcycle that is a terrible idea. I got to realize what that felt like firsthand at the motorcycle safety course. I want to finetune my skills so that I can survive on the city streets. Thanks
When you're hot you're hot (lol). And using your brakes properly is your best choice. Try to chill your jets long before you need a parachute, think ahead. At 60mph you're traveling at 81 fps, your body has approximately 15 sf. of surface area so it only takes 4.7 seconds to totally skin you. Hopefully you are wearing a helmet as the skin on your face and skull is 20% thinner and 50% richer in blood capacity. ALWAYS keep an exit-way open. Added: When in doubt 'gas it' , when doubt fails, lay it down and in a hurry!
Q: i have run into this situation a few times. i‘m riding a dirt bike / motorcycle, i‘m going really fast, in highest gear, but needed to stop really fastdo i just slam on the breaks while staying in highest gear? then after i am stopped, switch the gear into 1st/neutral? this is what i have been doing (is this healthy for the bike?)or do i just hold in the clutch in and downgear really fast while i am stopping? (is this what im supposed to do?)i guess i dont do that because it‘s a little hard (you need to be doing 3 things at once!)so am i messing up my bike by doing this?
It won’t hurt the bike to downshift after you’ve stopped. However you should not run into that situation ever (or almost never) if you keep your speed down until skill level has increased. We used to say at MSF school, ride within the limits of the bike, your skills and the environment. Tone it down a bit until you can downshift and brake, even during a quick stop. If you’re riding so fast that emergency stops are required, you’re riding too fast for the environment. Finally you’ve been lucky so far, the motorcycle stopped in time, but maybe not next time. Take a course to learn how to ride; in the US it is given by the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF). If you can’t find a course near you, get a video at least before you have a bad crash because you don’t have the knowledge and skills to safely ride your bike.
Q: i was just wondering, the Kawasaki ER6n looks pretty cool. but is there anything better than it?
And yet another country heard from Ducati 620 Monster will eat the others alive.
Q: if the internal brake mechanisms are damaged and have failed how possible is it to be without brakes without driving at high speeds.?? Is it possible for the front handle and rear foot brake to both fail?? and are those linked to the same or separate internal mechanisms. ??What is the situation of resolve if both brakes fail? Is there a way to stop or slow the bike down without brakes?
Brakes Failure
Q: Hi - I am 18 years old - and never rode a motorcycle before in my life (I have a car). I recently bought a Ninja 250. I signed up for the Motorcycle Basic Riding Course in 4 weeks. Until then, the motorcycle is just going to sit in the garage. Anyways, my question is will the Course tell me how to ride a bike, or do I have to experiment with my bike and learn by myself?
First thing- if the bike is going to sit in the garage for a couple of weeks, add fuel stabilizer and get a battery tender float charger for the battery. Install both of these devises on the bike, then you will be good to go when you decide you want to venture out. If you decide you want to try to venture out before taking the course, learn the basics-how to pick up a downed motorcycle-there is a special technic that does not involve brawn to do it and saves your back. I know I had to 2X yesterday pick up my 800 pound bike on a steep downhill gravel and stone road. nothing sadder than seeing a bike that you are riding laying on its side with no help in sight. Next take the time to read the owners manual. Lots of pertinent info in there. Hardest thing for most beginners-mastering the clutch and throttle while holding the back brake on. You could practice that. Learn to put the motorcycle up on its center stand. Finally read all you can about riding and motorcycle clothing and helmets and gloves and boots and decide what you want and get it. you will need the DOT approved helmet, some form of jacket or long sleeve shirt and gloves, with long pants and boots or shoes that come up over the ankles in order to take the course.
Q: can I use a bicycle brake lever as a motorcycle shift lever?
Are you referring to a 'clutch 'lever at handle bars or using it as a foot shift lever? Seems from the reference to cables you mean as a clutch lever- if it fits, use it as needed. Mountain bike levers have been used a couple times on small dirt bikes from China- same subcontractor seems to have made them.
Q: the motorcycle will not decrease speed by gentle application of brakes, I have to floor the rear brakes and grab the front brake calliper.is there something wrong with my brakes?
I agree that Philip's down home wisdom is astounding, but Choppy made a very good point. Some older bikes needed an Arnold Swartzenegger type grip to stop. An older bike with a single front disc is going to need more grip than a double disc and an older, single piston double disc will most likely need more than a modern, multi-piston double disc setup. Sometimes brake shoes or pads will become glazed, especially when they have been used lightly for long periods of time. Once glazed, it takes tremendous pressure to get them to stop. The best thing to do is to remove them and use sandpaper to rough them up for better grip. there's also a big difference between pad material, especially in wet conditions. I've had pads that worked great when dry but in wet weather I could have dragged my feet and gotten stopped sooner. Old Honda front disc setups had the caliper mounted on a hinged affair that needed to be adjusted correctly. Old hoses on disc brakes get spongy with age and no amount of bleeding will firm them up. If you can mash the brake lever against the handgrip, you either have air in the system or the hoses should be replaced. On rear drum brakes, the problem can be as simple as the rod between the lever and brake needing adjustment. On rear disc setups, you may need to adjust the lever to that it sets higher and you don't have to bend your foot downward so far. Hose swelling on rear discs usually isn't as big of a deal because you normally have much less hose length compared to the front. Can you lock up your rear brake? If not, then you certainly do have a problem.
Q: I am looking to build a Cafe Racer motorcycle with good handling characteristics, hopefully something in the 80-100 hp I am hoping to mount modern super sport suspension, brakes and alloy wheels. The idea is an old school look with modern technology components. A bike I can have fun and drag knee, but that won‘t easily wheelie.
TO CORRECT YOUR ANSWER ABOUT MY SNAKE: I am not antagonizing her. Im not doing anything wrong. I never even used the word pissing off or pissed off You give false advice and you obviouisly dont know what your talking about since all your stuff is about motorcycles. And I found nothing about reptiles. DONT answer questions you know nothing about. Thanks:)!
Q: I am currently (16) years old amp; I am wanting to buy my first motorcycle. Let me first start by saying: I have rode a 150cc Scooter on the (ROAD) since I was (12) years old.I (DO) know the laws of the road and I have had a lot of on road experience. I driven the scooter on freeways as well. Before the 150cc scooter I use to ride my brothers YZ250. I am EXPERIENCED.I am VERY mature about riding too. I have never gotten pulled over, because the police know I am a (RESPONSIBLE) rider. Summer is coming up and I want to purchase my first (REAL) bike.I was looking at the 2013 Suzuki GSX-R 600. The GSX-R‘s above 2008 have a A.B.C mode which basically means it has 3 power modes. A: is full power, B: is about 75% power amp; C: is for riding in rainI realize 600 is a lot to start on but I have been on the road for 4 years now, on a scooter that would do 65MPH. And I (DO) have my license. Since I have had on road experience should I get the GSXR?
What the wyzrdof dude said. But why not use the stock size?

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