Diesel Driven Self Priming Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
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Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump
1.Structure of Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump Description
The pumps are designed for economical & trouble-free operation in handling solids-laden liquids and slurries, it handle up to 76.2mm spherical solids. Pumps feature a large volute design which allows them to re-prime automatically in a completely open system without the need of suction or discharge check valves. And this is workable with the pump only partially filled with liquid and completely dry suction line.
Standard Self-Priming pump units are available for Solids Handling or Clear Liquid service. Typical mounting configurations are Engine Driven for Skid or Trailer Mounted packages and Frame Mounted Electric Driven. Pumps also are available in a variety of different metallurgies.
2.Main Features of Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump
• Big pump body pass 76.2mmsolid ,high suction head 7.6 m
• Convenient repair and clean (a person ten minutes)
•Removable cover plate ,replaceable wear plate
•Replaceable Wear Plate
•Heavy Duty Suction Flapper
•Removable Inspection Cover allows Clean-out, Impeller, Seal and Flapper without disturbing Piping
•Semi-Opened Trash Handling Impeller
•Pressure Relief Valve
•External, Shimless Impeller/Wear plate Clearance Adjustment
•Back Pull-out Cartridge-type Rotating Assembly for Ease of Maintenance
•Cartridge Type Mechanical Seal for Ease of Maintenance
3.Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump Images
4.Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump Specification
Material |
Cast Iron, ADI, CD4MCU, 316 SS, Alloy 20, C276. |
Diesel Driving |
Water cooled or air cooled |
Method of Connection | Self-priming pumps are available as basic units or may be flex-coupled, V-belt driven or engine mounted. |
Inlet/Outlet |
2''(50mm), 3''(75mm), 4''(100mm), 6''(150mm), 8''(200mm), 10''(250mm), 12''(300mm) |
Impeller Diameter |
158.74mm-457.2mm |
Rotary Speed |
550RPM-2150 RPM |
Flow Rates |
8m3/h-1275m3/h |
Head |
6m-63m |
Horsepower |
1HP-125HP |
Solid Passing |
20.63mm-76.2mm |
5.FAQ
①What is the lead time for samples？
7-10days
②How to guarantee the quality of the products？
We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test；We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance. Normally, We have 1 year warranty.
③How long can we receive the product after purchase?
In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. It related to the state and detailed requirement of customers.
- Q: Submersible pump capacity I was 1500W, the normal use of voltage is 220 kV line 600 meters with 6 square aluminum after the start of the effluent is small, and the voltage of submersible pump is reduced to 150 volts could not use voltage of 380 volts (two).
- Small amount of water, it should be the lift can not meet the requirements, change the submersible pump is the best solution. With 380 volts, it is very likely to burn out the pump motor.
- Q: Can I put in fluid and drive to the Service Station or should I have it towed? The fluid flows out as fast as I put it in. Thanks!
- Unless the shop is very close 1/2 mile or less, have the car towed. Overheating a car can cause major internal damage, that will cost a lot more than the tow bill to repair!
- Q: Hello, i have a 1987 volkswagen cabriolet that i purchased earlier this year. So far its been a pain in the butt. Recently i noticed it overheats real quick, but it didnt use to. then i noticed the coolant/antifreeze was being used up like no other! I discovered, after being parked at work, that it was leaking.it leaks basically anything i put in there now!! it leaks from the water pump housing,.,.... at least thats what the internet said it was.. its leaking from the end of the hose that connects to the engine... (the hose that comes from the coolant reservoir.)What do i do? I dont feel any cracks? does this part crack? is it an o-ring or somehting? I am really absolutely NOTHING ABOUT CARS. Please help!!
- Water pumps have a seal to hold the water from leaking out the spinning shaft, and the seal always wears out about every 100,000 miles. It is probably this seal that is bad, because it is probably the original pump, and you replace the whole pump. You have to take the front belt cover off and remove the timing belt, so it is not a trivial job. Cost about $300, and takes about 2 hours. But any friend who understands timing belts can do it easily. No special tools or tricks involved, other than making sure the cam timing is correct. Once you take the 3 bolts holding the water pump housing off, you can easily tell if any hoses or clamps should also be replaced. Do the thermostat while you have it off anyway. It is only $5.
- Q: We lost power during the hurricane, we have well water. the power went out and we lost water also, what are the procedures to bleed and restart a goulds pumps c48a93a06 water pump?
- 1. you are going to need at least a couple gallons of water in a bucket to re-prime. 2. look for a plug at the top of the pump and remove it. 3. pour water into the plug opening, filling up the pump as much as you can. 4. put plug back in so at least one thread is grabbing. by doing this it will allow air to escape and won't be spraying water everywhere. it is also a good idea to keep your hand on the plug. 5. turn on electricity to pump. 6. when you start to notice pressure re-gaining tighten up the plug so it does not drip. It is also a good idea to have an outside tap on to get air out of the lines. Another thing is, it is a good idea to shut off water to toilets and washing machines before re-starting pump because small debris have a habit of clogging them up. When your pressure is back, drain your toilet and cold water line to your washing machine, flushing all the stuff out until you see nice clear water. Hope I helped and good luck.
- Q: My water pump is sitting very close if not rubbing against the case. There were shavings and a groove. Would this cause it to knock? Also would this blow up the lower end? One more, Should it be in the center or offset twards the top?
- Perhaps one of the shaft's retainers, the bearing, or gear is worn, allowing the water pump shaft to move in and out of the case - causing the impeller to rub on the outer cover. Try to pull the water pump out and push it in - there shouldn't be any play. If there is, figure out why. If the impeller can move in and out, that would cause it to knock. If there were any metal shavings in the coolant, they would scrape the outer cover. The water pump cover isn't an even shape, so I don't know what you mean by should it be in the center The bottom end and the cooling system are 2 separate entities. A problem with one will not affect the other.
- Q: I just put a new water pump in my jeep and after I put it in I ran it and it seemed to have a small leak while it was running it seems like it was coming from the crank which is under the water pump so it might be a leak coming from the bottom of the pump. When I turn the car off it is no longer a leak its more like pouring water out. What do you think it can be? I put a gasket and the blue silicone gasket sealant all around it and on it before I put it in so I have no idea. Thank you for the help.
- The blue silicone has caused a hole in the water pump. Get it fixed now or the blue silicone will leak onto your engine causing more damage.
- Q: Why should the pump fill the air before running? What's the reason why the water doesn't go up?
- By rotating the water pump is thrown from the impeller center, resulting in pressure, the back of the water sucking over, this is the pump working principle, if air, air will not be left out without impeller, the flow rule, no pressure, so we can not draw water!
- Q: I was wondering how to replace the water pump in a 94 Plymouth Voyager. Its my moms van and she is scared that they are going to have to pull the motor to get to the water pump to replace it. I dont know so i am hoping one of yall wonderful people do. along with your answers can you give me an estimate of how much it will cost to fix? Please!!!
- 94 Plymouth Grand Voyager
- Q: should replace timing belt & water pump on a newly purchased used vehicle..if no records of last x changed?
- It is wise to seek advise from professional mechanics as to what process you are considering to do with this vehicle. This vehicle is 2013-1994= 19/20 years old presumably in service since 1994. The miles you report as under 160,000 miles. You inquire as if you are inexperienced in automotive affairs. Well, here is my experience speaking. Any vehicle over 100,000 miles is to be suspect of wear and tear and even abuse by prior owners and they require inspection and evaluation. Engines are to be checked for compression and leaks, electrical system, corrosion, engine mounts, exhaust, transmission, coolant system, etc. etc. etc. Only a trained mechanic can do this. Unless you have receipts, records at a dealership, etc. as evidence of service and repairs, then all parts are original. You ask as to the timing chain. I expand to include everything proposing short of an engine rebuild. Cars do a lot of work and suffer deterioration each second the motor runs and each inch the car moves over the earth. IF there an inspection plate or port that provides for a viewing of the condition of the timing belt, a mechanic will know. My car, a 2001 Audi TT has that feature. Now, imagine the purchase price of this Toyota, add the expense of the inspection and possible repairs such as the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, radiator cap and coolant replacement, possible a new radiator, suspension parts, exhaust parts, etc. in need of replacement, etc. and it is up to you to decide IF this vehicle is worth the expense for no matter how money you spend, the retail market value shall remain the same. That means around $2,500 to $2,700. This vehicle, as new, was not and is not now, a fuel efficient vehicle with an average MPG of 14 MPG on a good day. I do not know as to your driving needs but at 60 MPH and 14 MPG that mean each 14 miles $3.50, average, goes out the tail pipe for a nice $14.00 per HOUR cost on fuel. Kind of expensive. You choice and decision. Good luck.
- Q: I REPLACED MY WATER PUMP ON MY 1988 CHEROKEE,THE NEW PUMP STARTED MAKING THE SAME BEARING NOISE.
- this probably a dumb question but have you changed the bearing in the idler pulley? i have a 89 jeep that squeaks or squeals, bearing noise, just one bolt takes it off. i pulled mine off and greased the bearing, and put it back in, that took care of the noise. that was 6 months ago and it is starting again so i priced a new bearing, $6, you might need the number off the bearing to order it. make sure u just get the bearing, the whole idler pulley is like $40. I'm only suggesting this cause in my experience water pumps don't squeal, they kinda make a scraping noise then shortly later stop all together. if the pump wasn't leaking it might not have been broke. some times it is the simplest things
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Diesel Driven Self Priming Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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