Abrasion and Corrosion Resistant Industrial Slurry Pump

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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Specifications

1. centrifugal mining slurry pump
2. Professional high head pump
3. Metal/Rubber Lined
4. ISO9001
5.OEM

Centrifugal mining slurry pump industrial slurry pumps for industrial

Description:

slurry pumps are mainly used to pump high-hardness, strong-corrosion and high-concentration liquids that contain suspended solid particles, such as finished ores, refuse ores, ashes, cinders, cements, mud, mineral stones and etc.

Specification:

Size (discharge): 1" to 18" (25 mm - 450 mm)
Capacity: To 3400 m3/hr
Head: T0 120 m
Particle Size: To 260 mm

Concentration: To 60%

Application:

-Mining and mineral process

-Iron ore processing plant

-Sump sewage transfer

-Submersible liquid

-Coal washing plant

-Gold mining company

-Dredging process

-Gravel & sand process

-Trash handle

-Tailing handle

-Mud pump

FAQ

Who we are?

WE ARE THE BEST IN INDUSTIRAL PUMP FIELD IN CHINA! We are one of the earliest and most professional centrifugla pump manufacturer in China. Also we are the only one slurry pump company in China who has Vacuum casting workshop. In China, 40% listed mining companies have been using our pumps for many years. At abroad, we have finished many many pump projects in Africa, South East Asia, South America. We have agents in Europer, Australia, USA, Canada etc.

Why choose us?

WE ARE THE BEST IN INDUSTRIAL PUMP FIELD IN CHINA! We have the most full equipment and strict test procedure to guarranty our product quality. From producing to assemble, installation, we do exactly as the international standard. Not only competetive price, but also the fast lead time and service is great helpful to the users or our agents.

Q: 2 inches of water pump is generally equipped with high-power motors: Clean water pump 5.5 kw

Q: Okay heres the deal Its knockin and I tthink the water pump is going would this be a cause of this and when it heats up it knocks but when its cold it doesnt knock also once it gets hot it shuts off and starts to smoke what could this be is it maybe the waterpump when I try to re start the car after it shuts it self off it only just clicks wount turn over thanks: jason is right on this. a water pump wont do what your saying. it sounds more like something inside the engine is knocking, like a rod bearing.

Q: Question for you. I'm looking for a 12v (no AC converter, please) water pump to drive up to 4 water misters. Needs to run off the battery, without an AC converter (already found those). The pump will pull from a water reservoir and provide cooling relief on hot days through the misters. BTW... the pump should be reasonably small, limited to a few pounds...If you have any ideas, please advise.Thanks again,Robert: The ac converters are 12V rectifiers so just use the pump (wire to a battery) without the converter or check with motor home repair place

Q: Our mechanic wants to replace my husband's water pump in his 1996 Saturn saying it is quite loose. We'd like to wait until next week since its a 2 day job and with our schedules it would be difficult. Can it wait for a couple of weeks? Could this leave him stranded?: If the water pump is being described as quite loose then typically the bearing would be going out and the water pump very well could go at any time, the severity of possible damage if that happens and it overheats is ridiculous. Don't risk it. If it was a drip from the weep hole in the water pump then you could ignore it for a bit or a gasket leak for as long as you needed but if it's loose as your mechanic suggests the pulley/shaft can go without warning.

Q: My car broke down yesterday and is waiting to be towed to the mechanic (2000 Dodge Neon). I'm pretty sure the Timing Belt broke, but my water pump was broken in the process and leaked out lots of water. Would the timing belt break the water pump when it snapped? Or does the broken water pump lead us to a different conclusion? Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.Also I was reading online today about interference engines, but couldn't find a list to verify if I have one of those or not. Anyone know? Thanks!: First okorder 's Vehicle Repair Guides, which may have all the specs on your car's engine.

Q: What do I get to bring a portAble water conection? Like as in bring a hose with you I gess? It's confusing how I described it but I just wanna use a garden hose so I can wash cars from my truck. Sorry it's hard to describe: A portable water pump. They come in a variety of sizes depending on your needs. A friend of mine runs a window cleaning service from the back of his truck. I don't know what size pump he has but I do know he also has a permanent water tank fitted as well as all the other fittings accoutrements for the job.

Q: a water pump develop for africa: previously ApproTEC. KVM-Thika, a local manufacturing firm in Kenya. Micro-Irrigation Technologies. Rural Kenyans can no longer rely purely on subsistence farming. ... However, this pump can only pull water from a well ... wanted to pump water up to their fields on the sides of hills. So in October 1998 KickStart introduced the ...

Q: Is it ok to drive a car with a bad water pump?: How do you know if it's bad? Either you've had it diagnosed as such and you know the engine will overheat, or you don't, in which case, try taking out the thermostat (and bolting back up). If the engine is slow to warm up - replace the thermostat.

Q: the car is a 1973 Pontiac Lemans, 350 V8. Water pump needs to be replaced. It's obviously a mechanical pump that's in there now. I was thinking of getting something with more capacity (to start off) as I feel the car could do with a better cooling system (and I have to get a water pump anyways). I was thinking of getting an electrical pump as that would also free up a bit of power from the engine. From what I gather, by doing this it seems I need to switch to an electrical fan also. Is that the case? Any advice/opinions on electrical systems and set ups? Any recommendations?Thanks in advance to anyone who answers. Much appreciated.: Most 1973 era vehicles have a clutch on the fan which stops turning at higher engine rpm which saves horsepower. Your best option is to locate a high capacity water pump for your car or locate a radiator with more passes than the stock radiator. A radiator shop should be able to give you advise on both. Remember, the water pump is belt driven along with several other items on the engine, so replacing the water pump with an electric one might be far more involved and expensive. Plus, the water pump has a seal that must work properly for the engine to retain its cooling fluid. There are aftermarket cooling fans that can be installed in front of or behind the radiator to provide additional air flow, the local auto parts store should have a listing or a company like Summit. Fans can be manually turned on or have a thermo swithch which turns the fan on at a certain temp. These are usually options with the electric fan kits. Good luck.

Q: Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?: Two questions 1) Did you buy a new gasket? 2) Did you let the sealant set long enough? If you answered yes to both of these than the only thing left is to make sure you have the right type of sealant. Is it the waterproof stuff for waterpumps? You mentioned the stuff was red, it's been a couple of years since I changed a waterpump but I believe it was the BLUE stuff that I needed. But I could be wrong. Take it apart. Make sure it's clean (you can use a wire brush but I find a paint scraper works better) and apply the new gasket to the new water pump then but the whole thing back on the engine. Star pattern tightening the bolts. Test it without putting the clutch fan (I think this still has one) back on just to see if it's leaking. Hope that helps.

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