• Abrasion and Corrosion Resistant Industrial Slurry Pump System 1
Abrasion and Corrosion Resistant Industrial Slurry Pump

Abrasion and Corrosion Resistant Industrial Slurry Pump

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Specifications

1. centrifugal mining slurry pump 
2. Professional high head pump 
3. Metal/Rubber Lined 
4. ISO9001 
5.OEM 

Centrifugal mining slurry pump industrial slurry pumps for industrial


Description:

slurry pumps are mainly used to pump high-hardness, strong-corrosion and high-concentration liquids that contain suspended solid particles, such as finished ores, refuse ores, ashes, cinders, cements, mud, mineral stones and etc.

Specification:


Size (discharge): 1" to 18" (25 mm - 450 mm) 
Capacity: To 3400 m3/hr
Head: T0 120 m
Particle Size: To 260 mm

Concentration: To 60%  

 

Application:

 

-Mining and mineral process

-Iron ore processing plant 

-Sump sewage transfer 

-Submersible liquid 

-Coal washing plant 

-Gold mining company 

-Dredging process 

-Gravel & sand process 

-Trash handle 

-Tailing handle 

-Mud pump  


FAQ

Who we are?

WE ARE THE BEST IN INDUSTIRAL PUMP FIELD IN CHINA! We are one of the earliest and most professional centrifugla pump manufacturer in China. Also we are the only one slurry pump company in China who has Vacuum casting workshop. In China, 40% listed mining companies have been using our pumps for many years. At abroad, we have finished many many pump projects in Africa, South East Asia, South America. We have agents in Europer, Australia, USA, Canada etc.

Why choose us?

WE ARE THE BEST IN INDUSTRIAL PUMP FIELD IN CHINA! We have the most full equipment and strict test procedure to guarranty our product quality. From producing to assemble, installation, we do exactly as the international standard. Not only competetive price, but also the fast lead time and service is great helpful to the users or our agents.



Q: Building installation problems, beginners, many problems need to be solved, thank you!
80: discharge caliber mm;JYWQ: automatic mixing blowdown pump;40: the rated flow m fand /h;15: rated lift m;1600: mix the diameter mm;4: motor power kW.
Q: Where is the water pump located on a 1998 dodge dakota sport?
Where is the water pump located on a 1998 dodge dakota sport? Stars In Dodge - 0 answers - 41 seconds ago - Open Where is the water pump located on a 1998 dodge dakota sport? Stars In Dodge - 1 answer - 12 minutes ago - Open
Q: Hey all--I just paid $900 at the Volkswagen dealership to get my timing belt, water pump, rollers, and air pump replaced. Is that a good deal? Also, how does the timing belt replacement relate to performance? I noticed my car was a little faster than before (maybe it's because I was driving another car for 2 days).
Here's my answer, not sure it is right, but right for me. After a certain time, I replace my timing belt. I may not always replace my water pump with my timing belt. Why, the water pump may go for another 100, 000 miles like it did in my last car. I don't see anything you did or replaced that relates to performance. I change things because the maintenance schedule calls for them to be changed. When I pull them off, sometimes they are good and sometimes not so good.
Q: I have a pontiac grand am 1996 v6 with a 3.1L 3100 SFI engine. I have a coolant leak and I think it's coming from the water pump. When the car is cool and then turned on, about 4 to 9 minutes into warming up, coolant is hitting a belt and spraying out of the car's front end. When this is happening I see that there is coolant dripping off of the waterpump housing. The coolant started to spray everywhere about 15 seconds before the radiator fan kicked in. Why would this happen when first warming up only? Can a defective thermostat cause this to happen?
It;s the water pump.
Q: yesterday the electric went out for a while we had some big storms and now the water doesnt work, the pump is running but there is no water coming out, i need help on how to fix it, please. hurry
You might need a new foot valve. That keeps the water from draining back into the well. Depending on what type of pump you have, could be at the bottom of the well. To bleed the well, you need to remove the plug on the motor...it looks like a nut...about 3/4. You remove that and fill with water...when its full, turn the pump on and keep filling it till it gushes out...put the plug in (with new teflon tape) and it should work. Be careful not to touch the electrical, could get shocked. Its easy if the foot valve is good.
Q: What is a water pump for?
Providing kinetic energy to increase the flow of liquid to an energy increasing device for required head and flow
Q: I went to have my car inspected for a leak at a friendly garage I know. They said I need a new water pump and in the mean time just keep the levels always checked and filled. Is it safe to drive for a while or can the pump totally fail and overheat the engine. As far as I know it's just leaking at this stage, the pulley and belts are fine.
I am a lead mechanic my comment would probably be like this any vehicle that is leaking fluids is not a safe reliable vehicle although in some cases such as a water pump it is ok too drive a little with it leaking you need too make sure that the water pump does not start making noise that would mean the bearings are going out if it where me and ive done it before i would drive little as possible until i could get it fixed but yes the garage is correct just be cautious
Q: I drive a 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander and I am required to change my timing belt as part of preventive maintenance. When I had been to Firestone, they quoted $998 for Timing Belt Water Pump (both parts labor). When I called Midas, they quoted $550 for the same. Does anyone know why there is such a big difference? I have been a regular at Firestone, so Midas is new to me. Are they reliable? Midas is quoting low now, but would there be a surprise charge after I get it done? BTW, how is a water pump related to a timing belt??
Some cars have different designs. The water pump on my 96 Century could have been done in a matter of minutes. Where as some are much deeper in the engine. Usually, to change a water pump like this is pretty much one more step than changing the timing belt. This is why it's usually a good idea to do them both at once.
Q: i mean, the water that runs through the ground from rain and ends up in the pit in the basement,is it clean to drink in an emergency? live close to a public road where they salt for snow and ice, so do you suppose that is in the water?
In okorder /
Q: I have a '97 Chevy S-10 2.2 with 208K miles. Today on the way to work the heat cut out suddenly.I have had an issue with my engine where the temp will go up and down while on the highway but maxes out at like 215. Today after the heat cut out it was getting up near the redline before going back down to 150.I made sure the coolant was good before coming home but on the way home it was doing the same thing. I changed the thermostat but it's still doing the same thing.When I rev the engine I can see the upper radiator hose collapsing so it seems like there's a clog somewhere but I don't know how to find it. I guess it could be the water pump but then what is causing the suction on the upper radiator hose?Anyone have any ideas?
The possibility that the thermostat is up side down comes to mind. Chevy water pumps have been known to loose an impeller, but the collapsing upper hose suggests a vacuum is being pulled, so I don't think it is the water pump.

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