Petrochemical Process Pump with High Quality
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100 unit/month
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Petrochemical Process Pump
Description of Petrochemical Process Pump
ASP5030, ASP5040 series are centrifugal chemical process pumps, which are developed based on the advanced pump manufacturing technologies domestic and abroad. They are designed to be horizontal single stage single suction radial split series pumps in line with the specifications in API610(the eighth version)and API682
They can be applied for the power of 50HZ and also 60HZ.
The pump follows the standard of ISO, API, GB, ASTM and JIS.
Different materials for wetted parts is available according to the liquid characteristic.
Application Area of Petrochemical Process Pump
Chemical industry, paper-making, pulp industry, sugar industry and the common process industry
Water supply plant, seawater desalination plant
Heating&air conditioning system
Power plant
Environmental protection project
Shipping&marine industry, etc.
Performance Range
DN: 25~400mm
Capacity(Q): 2500M3/h
Head(H): 250m
Working temperature: -80oC~450oC
Working pressure: (P): ASP5030up to 2.5MPa ASP5040up to 5.0MPa
Structural Characteristics of Petrochemical Process Pump
The balancing holes with wear-resistant rings are applied for the impeller to balance the axial force.
There are cooling or heating pipe joints for the packing box.
The packing seal, single mechanical seal or double mechanical seal can all be applied for the shaft seal. There is also auxiliary cooling, flushing or sealing liquid systems.
Taper-threads are applied for flushing and cooling joints for the casing, pump cover, intermediate bracket and sealing gland, which enhances its sealing ability and reliability for pipings.
The pumps with their outlet diameter more than 80mm. Their casings are designed to be of double volute to balance its radial force, which guarantees the bearing service time and the bending capability for the shaft at the shaft seal.
Closed impellers are applied for both ASP5030 and ASP5040 series pumps, which are characterized by their high adaptability, high efficiency and low NPSH etc.
Open impeller is applied to transmit the gas and liquid two-phase and the liquids with great solid particles concentration(max. Particles diameter 8mm, or 10% volume concentration).
Bearing structure and cooling: Bearing bracket is supported with a set of radial ball bearing and two sets of thrust ball bearings mounted in back-to-back. Bearings are lubed with oil rings or oil mist when specified. Bearing outside surface is furnished with cooling fin, which can be air cooling (T<120oC), fan cooling(T=120oC~260oC)and water cooling(T=260º C~450º C).
FAQ
Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors
A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.
Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?
A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.
Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?
A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.
Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?
A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.
Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?
A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.
- Q: I have a 1986 Camaro and it is overheating. Thermostat was changed and fan is working. When it over heats it doesnt loose any coolant. Hoses are hot. I dont see any white smoke. No milky oil. Car runs good except sluggished going up hills. Dont see any leaks. I have notice that a water pump I replaced 2 years ago is all rusted on the outside. Could that be a bad pump? Why would a water pump rust on the outside?
- Water pumps have no protection so over time they rust, as do other underhood parts. NEVER replace any part 'till you KNOW the problem. You need to visit a RADIATOR SHOP and have your radiator looked at. Water pumps don't cause overheating, radiators do.
- Q: looking for the comparison and then finaly the conclusion about the water pumps instaaled in the IC engines. Where we should stick to the tradional mechanical driven water pumps or electrical water pumps? which one is better!! any information/ response is appreciated
- Mechanically driven water pumps run off of a belt on the front of the engine to drive them where-as an electrical water pump is run by you guessed it electricity. Belt driven water pumps are much more common with electrically driven pumps usually used for high performance car so as not to rob horsepower from the engine by the force it requires to drive the pump.
- Q: I recently took my 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix in for an oil change, and was told that my water pump has burst. I knew something happened the previous night because all of a sudden my car was overheating and when I opened the hood there was water everywhere, Anyways I am currently a single mom, working temp jobs while I look for something permanent. I can not afford the 350.00 to get it fixed. If I continue to drive the car am I looking at serious damage, He showed me how to fill the water tank (or whatever) so that the car will not be empty, But he says I need to get it fixed soon
- A okorder /
- Q: I received a call from my daughter who said that the water pump was making a grinding noise. She sent a photo to me showing 0 psi on the gauge. I came home to find it actually working again but after running water straight from the pump I found that it is really rusty. What is this caused from? Our water was nice and clear! We've had freezing conditions here. Still doesn't explain the sudden rust.
- Ok there are several possibilities one is that since pressure went to zero you stirred up sediment in the surge tank especially if it is the old style before bladder type also if air got into pipes that will loosen rust but these are minor and will clear with time and use but i would worry what is wrong with pump that goes to zero and makes noise you better check that out or your at risk it wont restart next time
- Q: My family has a vacation home on the bay side of a small island off the coast of Texas. The house has a water well and uses an electric pump housed in a pump house underneath the structure, which is up on stilts. The house is infrequently used and with the seaside conditions the pump has corroded and will not start automatically. What do I need to do to clean it up so it will function? I do not believe that the motor is damaged.
- the problem with the pump not running will be the motor only.....most likely the motor rotor has rusted to the winding core of the motor ....soak it down with wd40 on the inside ...should be vent holes to spray wd40 in...try to find some way to turn rotor ....on some pumps there is a screwdriver slot on the end of the motor...if it still wont run take it to shop
- Q: does anyone know the proper way to take the lower gearcase off and install a new water pump kit. it is a 1986.
- This is a simple repair but I'd recommend that you get a service manual, ether a factory manual or one of the generic Seloc manuals. The key things to do are mark the trim tab so you can put it back in the same position after repairs. Drain the oil. Removing the bolt that is in the hole at the back end of the upper housing, as well as all the obvious Nuts. both above and under the cavitation plate. Put the drive in forward gear, which takes the tension off the shift shaft. Once all the nuts and bolt are loose. Jiggle the drive and it will separate from the upper housing. You now have access to the water pump housing. Remove the housing and pull it up and off the d. Shaft. Inspect fully and account for missing impeller blades. When you re assemble Lube the impeller and put the drive key in place and put the impeller in place. Slide the housing down to the impeller. You can use ether th drive shaft or the propeller to turn the drive shaft in a clockwise direction as you apply pressure on the housing, It should slide down over the impeller. Reassemble in reverse order. Slide the drive shaft up into the upper housing turning the D. shaft using the prop to turn the shaft. Watch the water tube slip into the guide tube. Once it's in place put a couple nuts on then check the gear shift to make sure it goes F-N-R. Bolt up and fill with oil. Good Luck!
- Q: Power went out of my house and we just had it restored, though now the water is no longer running. We called the people who installed our pump and they told us they would need to dig up the well which is going to cost $1500. However i remember a time before where this happened and all we needed to was reset the switch. Do you think these ppl are trying to get me for my money? Does anyone know if there is a less expensive way?
- Sounds real fishy to me. Most well pumps are submersible units, and can be pulled without any digging. They're also pretty tough and don't break down easily. It is to be expected that the pump may have tripped a breaker if there was a single phase or low voltage condition as the power went out. Check that the circuit breaker feeding the pump is closed, (open, then reclose it), then go over the pump controls and press anything marked 'reset`.
- Q: i just moved into a house that has a small (about 40 gal) pond. i wanted to put fish in it. i have everything but the water pump. i've been looking around and i've found many solar fountain heads (about $30) that are pretty cheap and then i found a solar oxygenator for $100. which one would help the fish more? flowing water or just oxygen?
- To be quite honest, they are roughly the same thing. For a small pond all you need is something to agitate the surface of the water. the carbon dioxide/oxygen exchange only occurs on the surface therefore a small fountain that agitates the surface would work, or a small air pump that causes bubbles. Both are just fine.
- Q: How much solar energy would you need to generate and run a small water pump? Say one that is big enough to extract water from a bucket that is 1 ft wide x 2 ft deep? What size solar panel would you need to accomplish this?
- The key is, as 96sentra says, where does the water have to go. We would need to know how high above bucket (minimum) water level will the other end of the hose be, and how fast (Liter or gallon per minute) shall the water flow. This determines the pump type, which in turn determines the solar panel size.
- Q: I need a new timing belt and I'm getting that done soon, but my mechanic says that water pumps are usually replaced along with the timing belt at the same time. Does it really need replaced?
- no until it starts leaking.
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Petrochemical Process Pump with High Quality
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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