Petrochemical Process Pump with High Quality
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100 unit/month
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Petrochemical Process Pump
Description of Petrochemical Process Pump
ASP5030, ASP5040 series are centrifugal chemical process pumps, which are developed based on the advanced pump manufacturing technologies domestic and abroad. They are designed to be horizontal single stage single suction radial split series pumps in line with the specifications in API610(the eighth version)and API682
They can be applied for the power of 50HZ and also 60HZ.
The pump follows the standard of ISO, API, GB, ASTM and JIS.
Different materials for wetted parts is available according to the liquid characteristic.
Application Area of Petrochemical Process Pump
Chemical industry, paper-making, pulp industry, sugar industry and the common process industry
Water supply plant, seawater desalination plant
Heating&air conditioning system
Power plant
Environmental protection project
Shipping&marine industry, etc.
Performance Range
DN: 25~400mm
Capacity(Q): 2500M3/h
Head(H): 250m
Working temperature: -80oC~450oC
Working pressure: (P): ASP5030up to 2.5MPa ASP5040up to 5.0MPa
Structural Characteristics of Petrochemical Process Pump
The balancing holes with wear-resistant rings are applied for the impeller to balance the axial force.
There are cooling or heating pipe joints for the packing box.
The packing seal, single mechanical seal or double mechanical seal can all be applied for the shaft seal. There is also auxiliary cooling, flushing or sealing liquid systems.
Taper-threads are applied for flushing and cooling joints for the casing, pump cover, intermediate bracket and sealing gland, which enhances its sealing ability and reliability for pipings.
The pumps with their outlet diameter more than 80mm. Their casings are designed to be of double volute to balance its radial force, which guarantees the bearing service time and the bending capability for the shaft at the shaft seal.
Closed impellers are applied for both ASP5030 and ASP5040 series pumps, which are characterized by their high adaptability, high efficiency and low NPSH etc.
Open impeller is applied to transmit the gas and liquid two-phase and the liquids with great solid particles concentration(max. Particles diameter 8mm, or 10% volume concentration).
Bearing structure and cooling: Bearing bracket is supported with a set of radial ball bearing and two sets of thrust ball bearings mounted in back-to-back. Bearings are lubed with oil rings or oil mist when specified. Bearing outside surface is furnished with cooling fin, which can be air cooling (T<120oC), fan cooling(T=120oC~260oC)and water cooling(T=260º C~450º C).
FAQ
Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors
A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.
Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?
A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.
Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?
A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.
Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?
A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.
Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?
A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.
- Q: I'm planning to install a water pump using electric generator from a very long distance going up from a cliff
- if it is powerful enough to power the pump then yes.
- Q: i have a 1996 camaro rs v6 that needs a new water pump, the old one is leaking from a failsafe type hole.i know that im probably not gonna get one but its simply the perfect time to so if i am so... but should i consider getting an electric water pump instead of the $50 origional replacement? the car has no 'real' mods and i know the electric water pump would be a two horse difference, and that it is a mostly race type modification. so i had to ask because if i was to do this mod, now is the time. so what do you think? things like average cost of a good name like meziere , how hard to wire, etc.thanks
- Get.the.normal hose then think bout what you need to do
- Q: A guy i know changed the Water pump on my 02 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.7 in it because it was leaking coolant, when i got it back the leak was fixed but now there is a ticking noise. He thinks that the Timing Chain Tensioner needs to be replaced... can i get some opinions here? does he sound correct?
- Chrysler's 2.7 Liter Engine is pure garbage!!!!!! They start ticking and knocking and then they die. Sorry, I've been a victim of the 2.7 Liter as well. I had a 2002 Intrepid with 101,000 miles. It needed a THIRD engine installed. All those 2.7's sludge up and die. I heard the water pump is built inside of the engine itself...
- Q: does any one know where the water pump is located on a 97 nissan altima? and where can i find one, would pep boys have one?
- most cars, it is in the front, driven by the timing belt. If you are going to replace the pump, replace the timing belt also (if there is one), as it's probably overdue, and you have to remove it to get at the water pump. Also the tensioner. Replacing the timing belt is a difficult task. If you screw it up, you could damage the engine. .
- Q: The water pump in my 2001 PT Cruiser needs to be replaced and I'm wondering how much I'm looking at. I know it would vary and I know it's supposed to be labor-intensive but I thought I'd ask on here before I call my mechanic. We are trying to figure out if we should just go ahead and look at getting a new car. Thanks for any help!
- JUST HAD MINE DONE. FINAL COST $750. LABOR INTENSIVE OVER $400 IN LABOR AT $48 AN HOUR.GOOD LUCK
- Q: i have a 2003 dodge neon and my thermostat keeps rising to the highes level setting off the indicator (its not broken) i did have a leak in the raiditor and it was very notice able..after pacthing is up there was noproblem till yesterday now the thermostat keeps rising i admit the is very little antifreeze in ther and the rest is water but the is the same mixture tha was in the care that it was rinning off for the last three minths i cannot seem to keep the thermostat down my raiditor is in nee of repair but i m wondering if its the water pump does the water pum help regulate engine temperture? ther are no ivsible leaks and no drippiage could it be that i just need to put antifreeze or could it be the water pump or a broken raidiator? help i will give points for best anwser but really i just need help!
- Codes won't tell you anything and there's no such thing as a thermostat fuse. this can be several things, but it's not likely the water pump. what fails on a water pump is the bearings, a failure that would cause this type of problem would be a frozen water pump and if that were the case, the belt would squeal like crazy and break, as it move but the w/p didn't. a bad w/p will drip coolant from the bottom just back of the pulley, there is a hole there that leaks when the bearings are bad,, but that won't cause a overheat. If the coolant is low, top it off, with the car cold into the rad and the overflow bottle. Change the thermostat, it could be frozen shut, but it is unlikely. if you rad is that shot, you could change it, but the most common cause of this sort of problem is a warped head and/or a blown head gasket. A mechanic can check for this, but take it ot one you trust, as this is about a 1,500 dollar job either way, you have to pull the head to fix it. Running it with low coolant, unfortunately can cause this. if it's not this than the rad is plugged up, but if it just started happening, and it temp gauge maxes out all of a sudden with a full coolant tank, it is likely the head gasket/head. It can also be a cracked block. Sorry to be the one to give you the news..
- Q: I'm using an old Mitsubishi Lancer. Recently I changed my water pump it was leaking.To me it looked like a piece of metal, with a small fan thing (not motorized) How can it fail? There is no mechanics to it, just like a pipe with a fan (or turbine)I also messed with my radiator, I unhooked the main hose to clean out the coolant, since the plug was jammed. Could this have contributed to the failing of my water pump?
- The water pump has a gasket inside to stop coolant from leaking out. When the gasket fails, coolant comes out of what is called a weep hole. If you don't replace the water pump, the bearing gets saturated with coolant and fails. When the bearing fails, the water pump pulley ceases and the belt fails. I have seen this too many times.
- Q: Motor has over 200k miles. Water pump took a dump. Gear is very wobbly! primary timing chain tensioner off the right bank hasn't any tension on chain at all! Crank turns but doesn't turn the chain. So motor is way out of time for sure now.Found small piece of aluminum and 2 -1/2pieces of appears to be a spring pin. Am I correct to assume these pieces are from the water pump? A new chain and water pump I can see doing on this old motor! But? Any suggestions on what to do next before I waste my money? What kind of compression reading can I get with all the plugs out and manually turning the crank? Short answers of scrap it not welcomed! I'll determine that after I'm satisfied it's truly bad! Thanks!
- I also own a 2001 Intrepid and recently had a water pump go bad which also broke my timing chain. The pieces of aluminum you found are probably valves or valve springs from the head. Mine broke every vavle and spring on one head when my engine jumped time and a few more on the other head that is probably what your seeing. Also you don't want to check for compression by turning the crank manually. It is an expensive job to fix but the cars are great but I wouldn't spend too much on them because they only go for about $3000-3700 in great condition nowadays. Good Luck
- Q: I have a 1997 mazda 626 4cylinder. For a while now, my hot n cold gauge keeps wobbling back and forth. I was keeping water in it and it was fine. A week ago it went all the way to hot and started smoking. There is water gushing out right beside the pulleys. I'm not sure if it is the water pump or not. Now, my car won't crank. Someone told me that it was the rotor button, but i can't tell if it is bad. I don't really want to take it to a mechanic. Can someone help me?????
- Take it to a mechanic ! You have a serious problem.
- Q: My water pump is broken and so far we can't get the fan off so we need instructions.
- what does that tool look like to take the fan off
Send your message to us
Petrochemical Process Pump with High Quality
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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