CDB3LE Series Eaeth leakage Current Circuit Breakers

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Q: I have a 99 mitsubishi eclipse, and recently the radio stoped working, along with the reading lamp that I have. I looked under the hood in the fuse box, and there was a fuse blown, but everytime I put a new one in, it would blow almost right away. What exactly is this caused from, and how can I get it fixed?: There's a fault with one of the components on the circuit or one of the power wires is grounding to earth (trapped wire/damaged sleeving etc). Identify exactly which items are covered by this fuse and switch all the items off. Change the fuse for a good one, and then switch each component on in turn to see which one causes the fuse to blow. A fairly common fault for aftermarket stereos is for a wire to get trapped between the mounting cage and the chassis of the stereo when it's being pushed into the dashboard, stripping the casing off the wire and causing it to ground to earth. Could also be listening to the stereo too loud (again aftermarket stereos are more likely to be affected) - the extra current to the stereo may cause it to pop the fuse.

Q: I wrote to the company and they said they can't (or won't) identify the thermal fuse rating, nor will they tell me where to get one. They told me to just buy a new fryer for $50. I don't want to do that, being that I know the fuse costs $2 (I just replaced on my coffee machine). The numbers on the old one are illegible. If I knew the specific rating, I think I could just scoot down to the local Radio Shack and get a new one, like I did for the coffee maker. I can find no service manual anywhere. I assume the rating has to be at least 450 degrees F, but I want to get some more info before replacing what is essentially a fail-safe protection device. If I get on that is rated to high, I run the risk of severely overheating the unit, and I have teenagers who may use it; too low, and it will blow before the oil gets nearly hot enough to fry my chicken. I know I can make the thing operate without the fuse, but I would like to replace it. Any info?: okorder

Q: i sent my camera to the Nikon company and was going to wait till i had the money to repair it, but after some while they sent it back, but i saw the diagnosis and they said that it had a Cracked/Bleeding screen (Brother dropped it)The repairs costed about $80 bucks.If i just buy another LCD screen with backlight online, its much cheaper, then can i just repair it myself?Some i searched online said W/o backlight it had to be soldered (soldering) What does that meant btw?: Bleeding Lcd Screen

Q: I changed the bulb cause it was blown, checked the fuse but nothing. Is there another fuse or a seperate fuse for each reverse light. And where can i find a new board?: I cannot say I had the same problem ; but if Ye be one just work smart to do the work of 2. First single fuse not like headlights so that is cool there. Take out the tail light assembly and just leave it hanging on its wires. You want to be able to touch the bulbs. Now turn the ignition key so the dash lights go on Basically ignition on old war movies. Now electrical components are hot. Put car into reverse gear. Now go and finger the reverse light bulbs. The old air cooled beetles were bad for side contact as the hole was much bigger than the bulb. But if you moved the bulb to the sidewalls (so it grounds) the connection is completed. I can't say you got sloppy bulbs (I dare not say that to my gf) ergo the explanation first. Secondly(or maybe firstly) take the bulb out and see what it is like in the hole and on the sides of the bulb. If you see green or black or rust colorthey all are rust of one metal or another then a bit of sandpaper will clean them up to shiny metal. Rust does not conduct electricity and it seems water got in somehow. If the glass bulb is loose from the brass holder - then that is a bad bulb.(a NO-FiX) replace with a good one with the same catch nubs. Now you know how and can do everything needed. So shut off the key before it kills the battery. That simple.

Q: I have an old 1998 dodge stratus and it keeps blowing the ignition fuel starter fuse(20A). I replace it 4 times and they failed. Can someone tell me what's going on and I can get over this?: The ignition fuel and starter are all on the same circuit?? Seems odd, but possible I guess. Your going to have to get an amperage draw test done on the individual components of the system and see which one is drawing enough amps to melt the fuse. Could be the components, the wiring (not likely) or the control module (rare). Also could be a short to ground or short to power. Sounds confusing but I bet it's faulty internal starter windings causing the problem. Have the starter removed and professionally tested by a reputable auto electric shop not a parts guy that thinks he's a mechanic. Also if it's a manual transmission car try parking it on hills and roll starting it to verify the problem if this is possible.

Q: I have a AEG Airsoft gun and It does not have a fuse on it.What will a fuse do to it and what should I expect it to do to the Airsoft gun's performance?Does the motor size determine anything?: A okorder

Q: Help me please. My son installed a battery into his 99 ford escort. However he attached neg to pos and pos to neg. Can this fry out the alternator. Or could it simply be something electrical. There was a wire left off, going to somewhere. And a black wire coming from the internal fuse box.: Attaching the battery incorrectly isnt going to harm anything unless your jump starting the vehicle, then you fry all sorts of stuff connecting wrong ends.

Q: I have a house for sale that has a window unit in the living room. The air has been running fine all summer until just the past few days. As soon as the fuse is changed, the air will run maybe 30-60 sec and then will blow the fuse. We recently had the house treated for mold and not sure if the moisture could have anything to do with it??: How old is your house FUSES! Most have breakers. Check if you have put something else on the same circuit, an a/c unit will take almost 15amps and any extra will blow the fuse. You could use a 20amp fuse but no higher. or use a 15amp slow blow fuse. They will take over 15amps for a short time.

Q: hello i have a short in my car the keeps blowing my ingnition relay fuse and i cant find it. no matter how hard i search. have any of u used one of that short circuit finds like this page describes Tech and if u did is it hard to use and how do you use it? i dont wanna spend $50 on junk.: So what do you plan on doing with the short finder? Tear the wiring harness all apart so you can scan each one for a short? The way to find a short is to pull each fuse,one at a time, and have a test light hooked up to the disconnected negative battery cable and the negative battery post. When you pull the fuse that turns the test light off you've found which circuit it is on. Next you need a wiring diagram of the fuse box so that you can see which of the wires on that circuit go to which component. No matter how hard you search? The fact you are even looking for a short finder suggests you have no clue what you are doing so I would recommend hiring a real mechanic to fix your draw problem, not waste it on gimmicks.

Q: I'm currently in the market to purchase my first washer and dryer set for my family of 4. We are looking to spend no more than $1,500 on a complete set. What are your recommendations? Obviously we are looking for longevity in the set. We do between 4-6 loads per week. Thanks for your help!: If you want longevity and value get a traditional style of washer and dryer rather than the so-called high efficiency models. Most HE washers are not made with water-safe metals; they turn into electrodes in water that slowly fuses components together, turning an appliance that used to be a 10-15 year investment into a 4-5 year expense. LG and Samsung in particular are notorious for this. High-end brands like Miele and SpeedQueen are great, but they also cost a small fortune. The top-loaders that don't have a traditional agitator are notorious for tearing clothes and leaving large mechanical grease stains/burns from how they agitate and spin clothing. For the best bang for your buck, get a traditional top-loading washer with an agitator tower in the middle and a traditional matching dryer. As tempting as it can be to buy those swanky gloss-black or red numbers at the hardware store, even the most expensive models will not last longer than a decade. Besides, ***no one will see them but you!*** I have a Whirlpool set at home, and they work great. My parents have Kenmore, and it's the same deal. Both sets are a decade old and still trucking along.

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