• API Cast Steel Check Valve Butt Welding in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351 System 1
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve Butt Welding in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351 System 2
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve Butt Welding in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351 System 3
API Cast Steel Check Valve Butt Welding in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351

API Cast Steel Check Valve Butt Welding in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
500 pc/month

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The features of check valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.                                                                                                         

Body-To-Bonnet Joint

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check valves ,and welded on seat can be also optional if being requested by the customer.Welded on seat is used for NPS>12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.


Standard Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize   

Pressure Rating

 150   Class  300 Class  600 Class  900   Class  1500 Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve Size

 50   mm  65 mm  80 mm  100 mm  125   mm  150 mm  200 mm  250 mm 300   mm  350 mm  400 mm  450 mm  500   mm  600 mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm




 2   inch  2.5 inch  3 inch  4 inch  5   inch  6 inch  8 inch  10 inch  12   inch 14 inch  16 inch  18 inch  20   inch  24 inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A105+13Cr  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A105+Tool   Steel customize 

3-Disc

 13Cr+A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  Tool Steel+A216   WCB customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

5-Nut

 A194-8  A194   2H  A194 8M customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F316  A182-F6a  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194 2H  A194   8M  A194-8 customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B7  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  316+graphite customize   

12-Bonnet

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize 

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS   1868 customize 


Q: I have a no start on a briggs and straon 16.5 OHV. It has spark, and fuel. and backfire's through the intake. I took off the top of the motor to check the key way and it was in place. I think its a valve timing issue but what times the valve? I have not removed the flywheel yet because i need a puller. Is there another key way under the flywheel that times the valves
you can,t tell if the key way is sheared by looking at the flywheel it has to be pulled, did you hit something when mowing? good indication that the key is sheared, the valves run off a cam like in a car if not then you have a burnt valve
Q: It is burning oil, so that means oil is getting into the combustion chambers....but im not exactly sure which piece has gone bad? or for that matter what the valve guides are in the first place. Could the lifters have gone bad too? Can someone tell me what piece is most likely the cause for the oil leak into the chambers and then a price of how much it would cost to have it fixed. When i start the car it blows a puff and then settles down and then when im at a stop light and push the accelerator it blows a puff and then more or less settles down...sometimes it keeps going for a while. My mechanic put an additive in the oil called stop the smoke or something, and i know that that causes the seals to expand...and it has helped. So. I need someone to give me an overall diagnosis and price range. My mechanic is reluctant to have me do the work, im guessing cause its expensive...but i would rather pay 1000 dollars then buy a new car.
a valve guide is basically a round tube that is press fit ito the cylinder head, the stem of the valve rides up and down inside this sleeve as the valve opens and closes. the stem seal fits on the spring end of the valve guide and seals against the valve stem keeping oil out of the guide [and running down the stem and getting into the combustion area when the valve opens] valve stem diameter and guide bore dimensions are close fitting but the stem is always smaller than the bore [very little oil is available to lubricate this area under normal circumstances] so both the guide and stem can wear [the guide is of a much softer material than the valve so it does most of the wearing] high mileage engines can have very egg shaped guide bores allowing stem movement which if not corrected will ruin a new set of stem seals in short order i hope that i have been clear on this but if you have more questions please ask,as there are several very knowledgeable people who answer volvo questions at this site. NOTE: the valve seat is concentric with the valve guide bore. due to machineing tolerances when the guide is replaced the valve seat will no longer be concentric with the new bore and the valve will not seal properly so the seats will have to be re-machined off of the new guide and then the valve faces will have to be machined to the proper fresh sealing angle of the new seat [hence a complete valve job as far as costs go if memory serves this job pays approx 9 hrs. labor,.plus machine shop work.[generallywith new guides seals resurfacing and a pressure test and cleaning about 400+ or- and related gaskets seals fluids timing componants i suspect the final bill may be above 2 grand but if you kept up with oil changes and the bottom end is't hurt your car is well worth this expense
Q: In my condo, I have what appears to be a water relief valve of some sort right after my water inlet pipe. It's after the water cutoff valve. It's not the water heater relief valve. It has a leak, not bad, just a drip right now. It looks like a half baseball sticking out of the main inlet pipe with a bolt in the center of it. I've tried to tighten it but that makes the leak worse. First, what is this. Second, Is there an obvious fix to this. Third, if I have to get it replaced, what model/manufacturer can I get so that this doesn't happen for a long while. My plumbing is short of fifteen years old.
It sounds like a pressure reducing valve. As you tighten that bolt it increases the pressure and made it leak more.It's probably not any good. I think if you go to a home center you'll find one . probably a Watts brand. They seem to be more prolific. Not hard to change.
Q: How much would it cost to get a new valve cover gasket on a 1993 Nissan Quest van?? I know of a van for sale, but they said it might need a gasket soon. How much plus labor, average, do you think it'll cost? Thanks!!
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Q: Today I found out I have the heart disease Mitral Valve Prolapse. I'm 13, I weigh 109 pounds and I'm 5'8. I'm also pretty skinny too. I know this is a pretty common disease but should I be worried at all?
Normally, no it is not something to worry about overtly. However if you are not treated properly and not monitored then things can get worse. Your weight actually fits in with MVP as most people with MVP have a low BMI and are quite lean and skinny. If your doctor has put you on a care programme, great if not, voice your concerns to them!
Q: recently changed head gasket. could valves tap from the push rods being mixed up? they all seemed to be the same size and i know the other side was exactly the same when put back together but this side is mixed up. could this make the valves go crazy? and i need to replace my water pump because its getting very hot and no coolant moving. and everything is smokin up, took off oil cap and it was steaming. would that have anything to do with making the valves tap?
When you replaced the head gasket, did you properly adjust the valves, as in preload? Doesn't sound like it...as for different length push rods, you'll have to check that repair manual you went by...you did read the repair manual, right? As for the rest, head gaskets must go on only one way. Did you make sure all the holes lined up correctly, and one or more cooling passages weren't blocked by the gasket? Torqued properly, in sequence? Were the intake manifold and exhaust gaskets installed and torqued properly? Sorry to be a nag, but as you can see there is more to it than just unbolting and rebolting parts...
Q: Is there a difference between the atrioventricular valves in the right side versus the left side of the heart?Is there a different between the pulmonary valves?
Yep - the right atrioventricular valve, also called the tricuspid, has three cusps. On the other hand, the left AV valve, also known as the mitral valve or bicuspid, has two cusps. The bicuspid can withstand more pressure than the tricuspid.
Q: im 28yrs old with two babies.in my heart two valves are very tight and leaking too,im going for a transplanting them in august.If there is anybody who got this problem solved please share.Thanks in advance.
Usually with an artificial valve, you'll need to be on a blood thinner for the rest of your life. If they use a natural valve, you usually won't need the blood thinner - perhaps you will for a little while, but not permanently. You can request a natural valve, but the surgeon doesn't know what size/shape of valve you need until he actually opens you up and sees what he's working with. He has an idea, based on the x-rays and MRIs you've had done, but he won't know for sure until he actually see it. So the surgeons are going to request that the Organ Procurement Department to thaw out two or three valves, depending on what they see in the tests. You can't just keep thawing out valaves, testing them, and then refreezing them if they aren't what you are looking for, so if they turn out to not be a good fit, he's going to turn to an artificial valve. So you could request a natural valve, but because of the shape of the gap that he needs to fill, you may have to have an artificial valve. Blood thinners scare people, and your friends will tell you horror stories about how their uncle's cousin's Nephew cut his arm and bled to death because he was on a blood thinner! That could happen, but it is very rare. What does happen is that you will have to go to your doctor once a month and have a blood test, and if your blood is too thin, you need to ease off on the blood thinning medication. Or if it is too thick, you need to take more. If you're blood is too thin, you'll bruise more easily - which might be embarrassing if the bruise can be seen. Blood thinners aren't as dangerous as they make them out to be, but they can be inconvenient!
Q: I was diagnosed with a VSD and a Biscuspid Aortic Valve and my doctor has started hinting towards sugery. I found out that the only reason i haven't had surgery yet is that it is stable enough to wait until technology improves so i am not left with a large scar. i was just wondering what this surgery would entail and if anyone has had it. I am 19 years old and kind of worried about it...
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Q: 1998 camaro3.8L v6sometimes when i start the car, it makes this loud ticking noise that goes with the RPMIm pretty sure its the valve, anyone know how to fix it, and how much it might cost?
HI what you are hearing is not a valve but a lifter... MAYBE... Here's a couple of things that well make it tick. 1) an exhaust manifold gasket leak well sound like a ticking lifter. ( if the noise goes away after the car warms up it might be this gasket.) 2) a bent push rod well make a lifter tick ( as the tolerances would be off) 3) a bad lifter well make a ticking sound. If it is indeed a lifter then best leave it to a pro.. As the intake would have to come off to replace ALL the lifters (you can't buy just one). If its a push rod just the valve covers well have to come off.. to isolate the sound you can use a long piece of hose 3 ft. or so. hold one end to your ear and move the other around the motor compartment and see if you can tell if the sound is coming from inside the motor (lifter), inside the valve cover (push rod) or outside the motor exhaust gasket. good luck tim

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