• API Cast Steel Check Valve  350 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 1
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve  350 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 2
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve  350 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 3
API Cast Steel Check Valve  350 mm  in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

API Cast Steel Check Valve 350 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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The features of check valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.                                                                                                         

Body-To-Bonnet Joint

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check valves ,and welded on seat can be also optional if being requested by the customer.Welded on seat is used for NPS>12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.


Standard   Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize   

Pressure   Rating

 150   Class  300 Class  600 Class  900   Class  1500 Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve   Size

 50   mm  65 mm  80 mm  100 mm  125   mm  150 mm  200 mm  250 mm 300   mm  350 mm  400 mm  450 mm  500   mm  600 mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm




 2   inch  2.5 inch  3 inch  4 inch  5   inch  6 inch  8 inch  10 inch  12   inch 14 inch  16 inch  18 inch  20   inch  24 inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A105+13Cr  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A105+Tool   Steel customize 

3-Disc

 13Cr+A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  Tool Steel+A216   WCB customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

5-Nut

 A194-8  A194   2H  A194 8M customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F316  A182-F6a  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194 2H  A194   8M  A194-8 customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B7  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  316+graphite customize   

12-Bonnet

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize 

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS   1868 customize 


Q: So just yesterday i bought a second-hand ytr 2320e. After i bought it, i washed it and tryed playing it, but when i press the first valve, there is this small metal scraping metal sound kinda like if you scratch a metal bowl with a fork. I think it has something to do with the spring but im not sure.also, i was wondering if the trumpet valves are supposed to be very easy to press, or if they take a tiny bit of push.
No, there shouldn't be any scraping sounds. Yikes! It may be simply that the spring guide is misaligned. I'd pull the valve and try to make sure it locks-in when you replace it. On Yamaha's, the valve guide locks in with the valve facing forward (or backward - but you won't be able to blow through it with the valve down). So pull it. Look to see if there's a number engraved on the top section of the valve, and if so... it faces the player. Once you slide it in, turn it side to side slightly. If it won't turn, the valve guide is in place. If it turns a little, you should eventually hear the valve guide snap into the groove and you won't be able to turn it. If the scraping sound continues, the spring may be bent and need to be replaced (easy do-it-yourself kits available on-line). As to the sound, my guess is that this is just a matter of adjusting to a MUCH smaller mouthpiece than you're used to using. Everyone sounds awful when they start. That said... You should also check to see that the spit-valve corks are there and sealing the tuning slide and third valve slide completely. They'll fall off sometimes, which creates a leak and thus an annoying buzz in the sound. It's a good student model trumpet, so congrats on the purchase, and enjoy!
Q: i have a valve seat pop out and it did some damage my question is can it be fixed i took it to a machine shop the guy look at me with a little confusion he said it cant be done anyone out there have another answer
In most cases it can be repaired. You just need to find a machinist who knows what he is doing. Call some local VW shops and ask who they use.
Q: I was considering making a ball valve PVC air rifle or something of the sort using a PVC air canister and a hand pump, but I wanted to know about it, last year I made one that was air tight but air leaked out of the top of the pump which really annoyed me, I looked further onto the it and found out that there was a Bike Tyre valve, What does it do? Does it let air flow in but stop it from coming out? and where would I find some good designs as well as the items needed to make it? And don't bother answering 'Buy an air soft gun' because Australia does not retail those.
hi there in canada , at any big truck tire repair place they have tire valves that are like bunker fittings, that is to say a valve that has a threaded bottom end with nuts and rubber washers, you would drill the appropriate size hole in the pipe and put the valve through and tighten the nuts up against the washers making an air tight seal, that should work for you if they have them in au, good luck
Q: my pcv valve tube is broken in half I replaced it with a rubber hose does it have to be whole
no, i'm prety sure the pcv valve is to help the engine run smoothly. or something that has to do with the engine, i really dont think that is related to the tramsmission
Q: I replaced the valve cover seal and I wanted to know the torque specs for the valve cover bolts and the sequence it should go
I have a Hayne's Manual that's for 2001 through 2003. It says to tighten all the valeve cover bolts to 40 inch pounds, initially. Then--when all are at that setting, tighten all of them to 80 inch pounds. Then when all are that tight, do the final tightening to 105 inch pounds. Sounds like a weird way to do it, but I bet it won't leak if you follow these directions .... Before doing this, apply a light coating of RTV sealant onto the corners of number 1 and number 6 camshaft bearing caps (I guess some oil will leak if this isn't done). In other words, the back corners as you're facing the engine from the front of the car. Tightening sequence: Do all the middle ones first, starting with the bolt in the middle of the valve cover, then the one just above it, then the one just below it. Then do the same sequence for the left three bolts. Then do the same sequence for the right three bolts. Then get a Hayne's manual, because it may not be perfect, but it shows a lot of torque settings and other stuff you will need in the future. I don't wrench all that often anymore, so I use a torque wrench. My bad!
Q: freak accident broke the shutoff valve at my toilet, so first thing i did was shut the water off at the main shut off valve inside the house. then fixed the toilet shut off valve then went to turn the water back on at the house valve and it ran for a few seconds and that was it. so i then went to the main valve at the street to make sure it was open. it was open as well as all the others inside the house. still no running water. please help.
The service valve inside your home may be in dis-repair as well. These valves rarely get used and will have a tendency to stick in the shut position once the valve has been shut. If you have access to the curb stop at the street and can shut it, then you can go back to the service valve, take off the bonnet and see if the gate is stuck in the shut position. A little cleaning, a little Vaseline to lube it up - and you're good to go. Worst case - you'll need to cut it out and replace, preferably with a ball valve.
Q: hi guys..What is different between globe valve and stop check globe? Is that stop check globe=SDNR JIS std?
Sdnr Globe Valve
Q: Hi there - We have an old house with galvanized steel pipes. Our main water shut off valve leaks -- the leak is from the packing nut. A plumber came out yesterday and tightened it, and it now barely leaks at all, maybe one drip every 24-48 hours (which it probably has been doing for the 6 years we have lived here, we just didn't know when we bought the place). Rather than replacing the whole valve (which, apparently, has a high liklihood of breaking the pipes in the foundation, requiring jackhammering and whatnot), we are thinking of installing a new shut off valve higher up on the pipe, where I guess it's less likely to break. If we go for the second valve, is there a way to close up that old valve (hydraulic cement, tape, solder, etc.), so it doesn't leak at all? The tiny leak is coming from the stem of the handle - can we remove the handle and cap it off or something? (And thanks to those of you who answered my husband's question about the pipes yesterday!)
Main Water Valve Leaking
Q: How do you know if you need a new EGR valve or if you just need to clean it?
Take the car to a dealership (Ford, if you have a ford, etc.) This could save you being ripped off by a shade tree operation. Believe it or not, lol, there are some crooks out there!
Q: I went look at a car, and the guy selling the car said that the engine valve is leaking. Is this a big deal? How urgent would it need to be fixed? How much would that cost?
Valve cover? Generally a pretty minor job. Exhaust or intake valve? Generally a pretty extensive project.

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