• Gate Valve for High Quality Water System on Sale System 1
  • Gate Valve for High Quality Water System on Sale System 2
Gate Valve for High Quality Water System on Sale

Gate Valve for High Quality Water System on Sale

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 set
Supply Capability:
60000 set/month

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1. Structure of Gate Valve Description

1. Selected materials, in line with domestic and international standards, high overall quality of the material.
2. In line with the requirements of domestic and foreign advanced standards, reliable sealing, excellent performance, attractive appearance.
3. Sealing pair advanced and reasonable, gate and seat sealing surface with different hardness Stellite (Stellite) cobalt-based alloy cladding made, reliable sealing, high hardness, wear resistance, high temperature, corrosion good anti-abrasion performance, long life.
4. Stem quenched and nitride surface treatment, has good corrosion resistance, scratch resistance and abrasion resistance.
5. The use of flexible wedge gate structure, medium and large caliber set thrust bearings, friction force is small, and with a striking manually open and close with ease.

2. Main Features of the Gate Valve:

stainless steel flanged gate valve Z45T-10 valve uses wedge-type elastic single gate structure, apply to the temperature less than or equal 135 degrees of water, steam, oil in pipeline and other media to open and close. Main features: body is made from precision casting, sleek style seat closed plate tightly ,reaching no leakage, no sediment, circulation, smooth, open and close flexibly.
1)Full port design
2)OS&Y Outside screw and yoke .
3)BB. Bolted Bonnet .
4)Flexible wedge, Fully guided
5)Choice of solid or split wedge .
6)Renewable seat rings
7)Forged T-head stem
8)Rising stem and non-rising handwheel

3. Images of the Gate Valve:

 

Gate Valve for High Quality Water System on Sale

4. Specification of the Gate Valve: 

1) Product information: the gate valves supplied are mainly used for adjusting water, steam, oil, gas, and natural gas in chemical industries

2) Standards: AWWA, DIN3352 F4/F5, BS5163, BS5150

3) Connection type: flanged type, push-on type, mechanical joint type, plain ends type

4) Material:

  a) Body : Ductile Iron GGG500-7

  b) Wedge : D/I , core fully vulcanized with NBR or EPDM rubber

  c) Wedge Nut : Brass

  d) Stem : Stainless steel , BS970 431S29 or DIN17440x20Cr13

  e) Gasket : NBR

  f) Bonnet : GGG500-7

  g) O ring : NBR

  h) Washer : Carbon steel or Stainless steel .

5) Size: 50-400mm/2" - 16"

5.FAQ

1. Can I get free samples?

A: Yes,we can provide you the free sample, but you need to bear their own delivery costs.

2. Can I request to change the form of packaging and transportation?

A:Yes, We can change the form of the packaging and transportation according to your request, but you have to bear their own costs incurred during this period and the spreads.

3. Can I request to advance the shipment?

A: It should be depends on whether there is sufficient inventory in our warehouse.

4. Can I have my own Logo on the product?

A: Yes, you can send us your drawing and we can make your logo, but you have to bear

their own the cost.

Q: I got an engine knock and backifiring and no power not even to move the car just a few feet. I figured its the vales that are eather broken or burned out. I just started to take my top end apart to check and change borken or damaged valves so i can drive the car once again. My question is, when i take the valve cover off i can see what looks like the valves and the springs and something in the middle of the springs, now what iam i gona be looking at for a broken/damaged valve since i dont see any obvious damages but i could be wrong.
Bad valves won't cause the problem you're describing. This is something you need to have a mechanic look at. It sounds to me like you may have an issue with a timing chain or timing belt that has jumped or it's possible that you've got a blown head gasket between a couple of cylinders. There are other possibilities too, most of them not very good. Unless you know what you're looking for, you won't be able to diagnose this yourself.
Q: Okay, I got a 347 stroker and I noticed a spot that was leaking under one of my valve cover gaskets. So I went ahead and bought new gaskets. But before I replaced the gaskets I noticed that my valve cover bolts wasn't tight. So I basically went out for nothing and get new gaskets. Anyways since I couldnt return them, I went ahead and changed the gaskets. And I tightened all of them pretty tight. And I noticed that I still have an oil leak at the same valve cover gasket at the same place. Why is this? I also used cork gaskets, did I tighten them too hard? How hard should you torque valve cover bolts/
You never mentiond what type of Valve Covers you Had ..Aluminum or Stamped steel.... I am supposing that you have a Chevy engine...Now the FIX......I get 10 points if I get it right,,,,, Providing you scraped and cleaned All surface area; here it is..... If it is a Stamped steel Valve cover then you have to Flatten with a Hammer the area where the bolt holes are on the Valve cover.. Now Go to an Auto Parts store or a Performance Parts warehouse and ask for an EXTRA THICK valve cover Gaskets ,Usually made by Fel-pro or Mr. Gasket...they are made out of cork or Rubber.. They even have a gasket that Sandwiches a Thin Sheet of metal between two Neoprene Gaskets ..I think it is made by The same companies...I prefer this....I use to Build Race Car Engines and operated a Auto Machine Shop... Good Luck and God Bless...
Q: I have a 2000 jeep grand cherokee v8 4.7L it has a stuck valve making knocking noises my question is can i still drive it !? or is too dangerous
For 1 how do you know it has a stuck valve , if you know that you know how to get it unstuck (pb-blaster ) or something like that , or is it carbon holding it open if it is you will need to pull the head becouse the head of the valve will come off and damage the piston and the block , good luck.30 years exp on cars and big trucks
Q: 1992 Ford Crown Vic, 102K, burns oil, no blue smoke, no leaks. My first thought was a valve job. Any other possibilities? Suggestions? What about an approxitmate cost for the valve job? Thanks.
At 102k it would be better to go through the whole motor. Do a compression balance test to get an idea of cyl wear. It will save you money if you intend on keeping the car rather than spending the money to go through the heads and then have to rebuild the motor in another 10k.
Q: I believe my EGR valve is bad. I am having symptoms of a bad one. If I unplugged it and took my car for a drive would the symptoms improve, if in fact it is a bad EGR valve?
Most it could go either way depending upon the failure mode (stuck open, stuck closed, leaking, etc). I use a hand operated vacuum pump ($20 at most car parts stores). Connect it and see if you can draw a vacuum and if it holds the vacuum That will tell you if the diaphragm is okay. Also check the valve seat itself to see if it seals properly when closed. EGR valves run about $20-$50 depending upon car. Also, just because the EGR valve isn't working does not mean the valve is bad. You could have a faulty or disconnected vacuum line preventing the valve from operating. That was my problem in stead of replacing the EGR valve and the catalytic converter as recommended by an Emission Repair Station located just outside the state emission test station. The repair station is no longer in business.
Q: Where is the Canister vent shut valve located on a 2003 honda crv
The canister vent shut valve is located in the evap canister. Rarely do we have issues with these. Usually we have issues with the 2 way valve or the bypass valve. Based on the age of the vehicle, the dealer would recommend replacement of these 2 valves as well as the canister. The reason for this is over time, when you fill the vehicle with gas, you try to top off the tank. The fuel winds up being pushed into the evap valves and the canister. This liquid gas causes the sensor to read wrong which results in this code.
Q: How do you repack an osy valve? Where do you get the packing from? Do you have to shut down the water to do it?
For most valves, replacing the packing can be done without shutting down the water system. The first step is to back seat the valve. Back seating will occur when the valve is fully opened, and will temporarily seal the leak around the stem. You simply open the valve completely with about 50-100ft-lb of pressure. Once the leaking has stopped, you can remove the packing bolts and nuts on the packing gland. Slide the packing gland up the stem and you will have access to the packing. You may need a packing hook, which is a flexible corkscrew tool, to help remove the old packing. Once you have removed the old packing you will want to repack the valve with new packing by wrapping it around the stem and pushing it down into the valve body. After the new packing has been replaced, it may need to be compressed a little so that the packing gland can be reinstalled. This can be done using two pieces of all-thread rod. Cut both all-thread rods to 6 inches long, making sure to use the same diameter all-thread rod as your packing bolts. Place the all-thread rod through the packing gland and tighten the nuts onto the all-thread rod to compact the packing in the valve. Next, remove the all-thread rod and replace with the bolts. Turn the hand wheel, so the valve is about half way open. Finally, tighten the nuts evenly until all leakage around the stem stops. You may need to exercise the valve a few times to make sure there are no leaks around the stem. Be careful not to over tighten the gland because it can crack and there is no reason to compress the packing more than is needed to stop the leak.
Q: Exactly what is an EGR valve where is it located?
if your talking about a car EGR valve, it's used for the smog system in your car...if you need help you need to specify what make and model of car you have... with a faulty EGR vale you will not pass a smog test and it will make your car run rough... go buy one at the local automotive store and locate it under your hood, they are very simple to install...
Q: pls. tell me the differnce between isolation and block valves and also where it to be used .
The two terms are used interchangeably. They are valves that are used to completely interrupt flow as opposed to a valve that is used to throttle or control flow without stopping it.
Q: My baritone is somewhat new, the first valve isn't going down, I've tried nearly everything and I want to avoid taking school instrument to a music store to repair.
If valve oil alone isn't working, try flushing out the valve casing with warm (not hot) water. Likewise, rinse off the valve itself. Once they're dry, apply a fresh coat of oil and try again. Also be sure that you have the valve aligned properly. Now if the valve still doesn't work, then it may be time to bring it in to the shop.

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