• Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc DN 250 mm System 1
  • Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc DN 250 mm System 2
  • Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc DN 250 mm System 3
Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc DN 250 mm

Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc DN 250 mm

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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Products Description of Swing Check Valve

Check valves are used in pipes under pressures between PN1.6~16.0MPa(Class150~2500Lb), working temperatures-196~600, They are used in industries include oil, chemistry, pharmaceutical, fertilizer, and power gene-ration to prevent the backward flux of the media.

The main structure features of Swing Check Valve:

1The products feature a reasonable structure, reliable seal, good performance and nice modeling.
2
Either soft or hard seal can be selected for the product upon different working conditions.The sealing face is built up with Co-based 
carbide alloy, leaving a better wearability, corrosion and scrap resistance and a longer duration.
3
Small opening pressure, the disc can be opened fully with a very small pressure differential.
4
Inside-set bolt-bearing structure reduces leakage and reliable use.
5
PN≥16.0Mpa (class1500), the middle cavity uses a self-tightening sealing structure to have the sealing performance reinforced along 
with the pressure rise so as to ensure the sealing performance.
6
Different parts materials and different sizes for flange, butt-welding are available for sensible combination according to different working facts and customers' requirements.

Parameter of Swing Check Valve:

Standard Criteria

 GB customize 

Pressure Rating

 1 Mpa  1.6 Mpa  2.5   Mpa  4 Mpa  6.4 Mpa  10 Mpa  16   Mpa customize 

Valve Size

 50 mm  65 mm  80   mm  100 mm  125 mm  150 mm  200   mm  250 mm 300 mm  350 mm  400   mm  450 mm  500 mm  600 mm customi

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Wafer customize 

Medium

 Oil  Steam  Water customize   

Medium Temperature

 -196~600 customize   

Structural style

 Swing double-clack   structure customize 

Application Fields

 Agriculture  Electricity  Medical  Petrochemical customize   

1-Body Material

 CF3  CF8C  CF8  WCB  CF8M  CF3M customize   

2-Disc

 CF3  CF3M  WCB  CF8  CF8M  CF8C customize   

3-Pivot

 1Cr13  1Cr18Ni9Ti  0Cr18Ni12Mo2Ti  2Cr13 customize   

4-Spring

 60Si2Mn  1Cr18Ni9Ti  4Cr13  0Cr18Ni12Mo2Ti customize   

Design Standard

 GB/T 12224 customize 

Connection Standard

 GB/T 9113  HG   20592  JB/T 79 customize 

Test Standard

 JB/T 9092-1999 customize 

Face to Face

 GB/T 15188.2-1994 customize 

Images of Swing Check Valve:

Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc DN 250 mm

Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc DN 250 mm

Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc DN 250 mm



FAQ of Swing Check Valve:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.


Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.


Q3:How can I place an order?

  The only one thing you should do is to tell us the sepecification about type quantity and  mode of transportation, then we will send you quotation within 24 hours.




Q:1998 camaro3.8L v6sometimes when i start the car, it makes this loud ticking noise that goes with the RPMIm pretty sure its the valve, anyone know how to fix it, and how much it might cost?
The use of transmission fluid in the gas, and in the oil will act to clean the engine. People buy upper valve lubricants when in reality that is exactly what transmission fluid does. It is a very high detergent, very thin oil. It acts to clean an engine through the gas, and in the crankcase. You don't want to add a lot in either place, though. A pint in a tank of gas a couple of times or so, and just enough in the crankcase to thin the oil you have just a bit. In extremely cold weather when I have used a 30 weight oil in a vehicle I will add one quart to my crankcase to thin the 30W oil. It makes it around a 10 to 15W. As a cleaner, and an upper valve lubricant this way there is only one drawback to its use. If your engine is prone to using oil, ie, an older or worn engine, it will start to clean so well that you will start using more oil.
Q:I need to make a ball valve that will open with no manual force but by a motor of some sort to spin it and release water. how do i make a ball valve controlled by preferably a motor or other CHEAP device. I need to do this for less that 20$
put a slave servo on it,
Q:How would this affect the functioning of the heart valves?How would this be detected in a routine examination?
If the heart valves are damaged, they may leak, causing regurgitation of blood. For example, if the mitral valve (between the left atrium and left ventricle) leaks, blood will leak back into the left atrium when the ventricle contracts. This reduces the efficiency of the heart contraction. Regurgitation is easily detected by echocardiography. On routine physical exam it may be detected *if* there is enough leakage/ flow abnormality to cause an audible sound, or murmur, that your physician can hear with his/her stethoscope.
Q:My AC leaks and mechanic says it is shrader valve. Is it expensive?
It is like the valve in a tire stem. No, it is dirt cheap - like four bucks if that. Why didn't mechanic just replace it? You can replace this yourself. Just go to a parts counter and ask them to look up your car and they will find a valve. Then ask them for the tool. You can probably get both for under $15. But you will have to wait until all the refrigerant leaks out of it hasn't already. You don't want to take out a valve from a pressurized system. You can also recharge the system yourself too. They now sell the hose that attaches to the can with a built in valve. It isn't difficult if you can follow directions.
Q:Does the new valve get glued or anything or do I just put it on tightly? I cannot tell if the existing valve is glued on or not.
If the old valve is plastic it may be glued . It is probably chrome plated brass and could be a compression type which most plumbers I know don't use on cpvc but on copper. there may be a male iron pipe thread adaptor (mip) you would need a backup wrench and unscrew the fitting. You may have a sharkbite fitting , with this you need a special tool to remove the fitting, once you have this tool figured out it is real simple to use. it is a type of slip compression fitting a pic may help us to identify it As long as it has a compression nut use a backup wrench and unscrew it and make sure the nut on the new valve will fit the old valve as some brands use an odball thread and that the debth of the protruding pipe is not to long so the new valve will seat against the compresion ring. and of course make sure the water main is off and the water is drainded as best you can.
Q:1st valve: this valve used to never cause me trouble at all. THen, suddenly it would stick at the end of the press. I took it home, washed it, cleaned out the casing with the casing brush, cleaned out the holes with a mouthpiece brush, and wiped it clean. Then, i put a bit of oil and it worked fine. Then next morning, i took it out for a second and found it was sticking again. It worked fine afterthat, but why would a valve to that?2nd: this valve is very troublesome. It's sticky for no reason. i did the same thing as the first, but it stayed stuck3rd. Weird valve. One day, i dropped my trumpet (not like down the stairs or anything, just while sitting) and this valve just messed up. What happened, was that when the valve was screwed in all the way, it would be stuck. however, when i unscrewed halfwayor a little less it worked amazingly well. Can a slightly unscrewed valve affect your playing (aside from the clicking noise). Can a valve get dented, causing this?
I think the reason why your valves are sticking is because they are building up sludge from being oiled too much, and yes, that does happen frequently. Remove the valves carefully, wipe them off thoroughly with a clean cloth, replace them correctly, and lightly oil them. Then try pushing the valves a bit before playing.
Q:I was diagnosed with a VSD and a Biscuspid Aortic Valve and my doctor has started hinting towards sugery. I found out that the only reason i haven't had surgery yet is that it is stable enough to wait until technology improves so i am not left with a large scar. i was just wondering what this surgery would entail and if anyone has had it. I am 19 years old and kind of worried about it...
VSD or ventricular septal defect is a congenital disease caused by failure of your ventricular septum to fuse with the bulbar ridges of your atrial septum during embryogenesis. Some VSD are fine since only a small amount of blood is shunted from LV to RV but a majority is still shunted straight to the aorta. An aortic valve stenosis which I think is what you are referring to is usually an adult disease associated with rheumatic fever, mechanical breakdown from hypertension, or death from an MI. Aortic valve stenosis is a bit more worrisome since this can lower the output of your heart by acting as an obstruction, which overtime can cause ventricular hypertrophy, a disease with whole set of other problems. New trends in VSD repair uses minimally-invasive surgery using a transcatheter that is inserted esophageally or through femoral artery; very small scars and short recovery time. Aortic valve repair may also be done this way in the future, but if your aortic valve is still patent, there is no need to replace it at this moment because it would require a donor and open heart surgery.
Q:The hot water in my bathroom is leaking from the faucet. I've shut off the valve below the sink, but it continues to dribble out. Also, there appears to be some rust build-up. Could that account for a failing valve?
In some homes where the sink is mounted to the wall, as in your case, there may be shut off valves in the basement directly under the bathroom. If there are none there then you will most likely need to shut off the main water the open the bath room sink faucets to drain off excess water. Good luck.
Q:i have a puegeot 306 turbo diesel and apparently removing the EGR valve helps with engine noise and the smokeyness of the car. Is there any downside to removing it?
The EGR Valve (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve) aids in warming up the engine to operating Temperature. The engine is designed for maxi mun efficiency and optimum power at a pre determined Temperature. If you are getting alot of engine noise or alot of smoke, the EGR valve isn't the problem. And removing it may improve the condition some, however, your engine has other issues. The downside on removing it from a diesel engine is by lowering the heat generated to the cylinders, you reduce the engines ability to burn all of the fuel. Diesel engine burn the fuel through compression and heat.... not spark. So lowering the cylinder Temperature leaves fuel in the cylinder that is unburnt. It will aid in lubrication to the cylinder but eventually may cause wet stack. The cylinders staying wet with unburnt fuel. Over time, if enough fuel builds up, the engine may experience a hydraulic lock.
Q:Chev 350 in marine use. Made horiffic exhaust noise, especially with increasing throttle. Cam seems fine still, but the rocker on #5 exhaust was somewhat off to the side but still touching the side of the valve stem...but stem bent. What would cause this and is this the cause of the loud combustion sound (like a spark plug out of it's hole?
You have several problems here! First of all lets dispense with the marine part, -- which is mostly cooling system conversion! A bent valve -- probably reason for popping, - it is most likely bent inside from striking (being struck) by piston with some possible small piece of metal between top and valve, -- this could be a simple as a piece of broken piston ring, or maybe a screw or nut that has fallen down in intake system some time,- and just now sucked into combustion chamber! Clearance between piston and head not really large when piston all the way up! In order to repair, you need to remove the head and have valve taken out, -- which will probaly require new valve guide replacement! As for rocker arm, it may or may not be involved in actual origional problem! I would have head all checked over to make sure that it is ok,-- as foreign objects inside engine can ruin head also! Now if this is a high time engine, It might be a good idea to pull other head off also, as you have to remove stuff on top and intake manifold to get other one off again, -- (if it has problems later)! The loud noises may have been piston still banging on valve, -or exhaust gasses popping out when ingniton occoured because of valve not seating, -- you could also have bent intake valve, just not as bad, -- and gas popping back out through intake system also!

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