• API Cast Steel Check Valve 300 Class in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 1
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve 300 Class in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 2
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve 300 Class in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 3
API Cast Steel Check Valve 300 Class in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

API Cast Steel Check Valve 300 Class in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
50 pc
Supply Capability:
500 pc/month

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The features of check valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.                                                                                                         

Body-To-Bonnet Joint

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check valves ,and welded on seat can be also optional if being requested by the customer.Welded on seat is used for NPS>12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.


Standard Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize   

Pressure Rating

 150   Class  300 Class  600 Class  900   Class  1500 Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve Size

 50   mm  65 mm  80 mm  100 mm  125   mm  150 mm  200 mm  250 mm 300   mm  350 mm  400 mm  450 mm  500   mm  600 mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm




 2   inch  2.5 inch  3 inch  4 inch  5   inch  6 inch  8 inch  10 inch  12   inch 14 inch  16 inch  18 inch  20   inch  24 inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A105+13Cr  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A105+Tool   Steel customize 

3-Disc

 13Cr+A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  Tool Steel+A216   WCB customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

5-Nut

 A194-8  A194   2H  A194 8M customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F316  A182-F6a  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194 2H  A194   8M  A194-8 customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B7  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  316+graphite customize   

12-Bonnet

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize 

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS   1868 customize 


Q:I had some great answers to my question yesterday... I have decided to have the valve job done... Since I have decide to go this route... I need some reassurance, the few people I have suggessed this option to have now told me that typically after a valve job other problems will start showing up. They have said that the car isn't worth putting money into and to get ride of it.
well, is the car in good shape otherwise, like the tranny, suspension and the body?, if it is, then its probably wort a valve job, its cheaper then another motor.
Q:Its stuck to an angle where the metal parts of the wheel block the air pump from letting it secure itself around the valve so i cant put air in, it all comes out the sides, i dont want to have to replace anything for i dont know much about bikes, but any solution to my problem? Thanks
What causes the valve stem to get like that. is from riding it with an almost flat tire with very little air in it. . Let the all the air out of the tube ,. pull and tug on the tire to rotate it on the rim until the valve stem is standing strait up again. Then refill with air. But often when you ride with low air, it ends up making a hole in the tube.
Q:Hi, I just got my 20 gallon freshwater aquarium yesterday and set it up today with the filter,water, pump,etc... I bought an AquaCulture 20-60 gallon double outlet air pump and didnt realize it had two valves. I only need to use one though ...what should I do??p.s. The bubbler thing that lets the bubbles out is a rectangle and its long but it isnt working in the middle of it...? would that be because of the double valve?p.p.s. the pump came with two check valves.Thanks, Sarah
If the pump doesn't come with any method to shut off one of the outlets, you can combine both outlets into one by using some tubing and a T-valve. You can also use an air valve and some tubing on the unneeded outlet to dead-end it, though that method may be a bit more stressful on the pump.
Q:I think I have a bad valve steam seals because when I start the car white-grayish smoke comes out of the back of the car. When let sit for 2 or more hours start car and smoke comes out everytime. Will a valve adjusment fix the problem? Thanks
Well, it can only get from bad to worse, costing double as much everytime. For now if you leave it, you will need to top up your engine oil very often, and your fuel consumption will become higher as engine friction is higher and ignition sealing is poor (high blowby gases). This means also lower efficiency of the vehicle. If the weather is hot, the engine will have a higher probability of overheating after operating for long periods of time (say 3 hours or so).... but the real danger is if you keep it this way, your crankshaft and connecting rod bearings will start to scuff little by little, which might cost you a very heavy engine overhaul. My advice: send it to a technician now, as it will require special tooling to tighten the cylinder head, remove/install valve springs, and maybe some shim calibration if it is an old model. Valves must also be inspected, and their guides as may have worn out. Give to specialist, I say, unless you have the patience and spirit to experiment.
Q:What's the safety valve (relief valve) type?
The four common types of pressure relief are the spring loaded valve, the rupture disc, the balance bellows spring loaded valve and the pilot operated relief valve.
Q:The valve on my radiator has numbers on it to determine the amount of air/steam leaving the heating system. what number should i put it on and how would i determine it
I would think the easiest way would be to put a thermometer on the radiator (with the bulb in the air flow), turn the heat on to one setting and record the temperatures each half hour for about 4 hours. Then, turn the adjustment to a higher (or lower) number and repeat that. That way, you'd know which way to turn to set it. Of course, the level at which you'd be comfortable would be found by trying different settings. Assuming the adustment is a valve, valves in the USA will open by turning counter-clockwise. Closing is, of course, clockwise. Hope that helps. EDIT: I received your email - I don't mind at all! OK, so you have only one valve for all the radiators. Without knowing anything else, I'd say you just removed the part called the bonnet (the upper half of a valve). It shouldn't matter which number it's set on if it's reinstalled correctly. When a valve is removed, the best way to put back is to open it slightly (turn counterclockwise to a low number), then reinstall the bonnet. Once it's back in, it should work like normal. If that doesn't work, perhaps you can get a plumber or a local handyman to check it. As to the upper ones being airlocked, it really sounds like there is a blockage in the supply line. I am assuming this is steam-heat radiator that is supplied by a boiler-type heating unit?
Q:My 91 GMC Van has an Idle Control Valve that is unplugged, but the van still runs great. Will the valve being unplugged, result in harm to my vehicle?
Go to your local library, ask if they can get you the *factory* GM wiring diagram and service manual for your specific year/vehicle. They have a troubleshooting section that is usually quite good, with easy to follow flow charts. IAC is tied into the ECM in the way it handles air when you aren't using the gas...decelerating, stopping, when you start the vehicle (and different depending on whether the engine is cold/hot), etc. It will be stuck in one position now. When it starts to cause problems, you'll see them manifest in the conditions I describe above. If there truly no issues with the way it runs, then don't worry about it until you start to have problems. It's not going to destroy the motor without it. Not my cup of tea to know there is a problem, and ignore it, but then again, I'm me. You can rest assured though, if it were unnecessary, and saved GM one penny to not give it to you, they would not have installed it in the first place. :)
Q:Full Bore ball vale and Reduce bore ball valve have diferent with each other ,I want to know about them.
These okorder
Q:i recently adjusted my valves on my 01 civic with a 1.7 sohc vtec motor and i did it to the specs under the hood and i didnt have them too tight or too loose on the feeler gauge and they are pretty loud are these motors just that noisy? has anyone else adjusted them to something different that works better?
The dude above is physically powerful, yet incorrect on the fee. you may get an entire swifter equipment for about 1k, a reliable setup will fee a million.5k to 2k with injectors, gasoline pump, a turbine, and an intercooler. 01 are heavy and not super to do mods to, additionally d16 sucks inventory, so which you're able to additionally could desire to yet internals with expenses 900 for the aspects (pistons and rods). entire could be 2k to 3k for an extremely super setup for 250 to 300hp
Q:Hey quick Q, I heard somewhere that you could degrease the the reed valve? I love cleaning up my CR250 as much as I can. I just want to know if this is done, and if you could, tell me where I'm supposed to clean.Thanks.
Spray degreaser down the air intake-that should fix it.

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