• API Cast Steel Check Valve 300 Class in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 1
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve 300 Class in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 2
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve 300 Class in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 3
API Cast Steel Check Valve 300 Class in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

API Cast Steel Check Valve 300 Class in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
50 pc
Supply Capability:
500 pc/month

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The features of check valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.                                                                                                         

Body-To-Bonnet Joint

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check valves ,and welded on seat can be also optional if being requested by the customer.Welded on seat is used for NPS>12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.


Standard Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize   

Pressure Rating

 150   Class  300 Class  600 Class  900   Class  1500 Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve Size

 50   mm  65 mm  80 mm  100 mm  125   mm  150 mm  200 mm  250 mm 300   mm  350 mm  400 mm  450 mm  500   mm  600 mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm




 2   inch  2.5 inch  3 inch  4 inch  5   inch  6 inch  8 inch  10 inch  12   inch 14 inch  16 inch  18 inch  20   inch  24 inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A105+13Cr  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A105+Tool   Steel customize 

3-Disc

 13Cr+A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  Tool Steel+A216   WCB customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

5-Nut

 A194-8  A194   2H  A194 8M customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F316  A182-F6a  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194 2H  A194   8M  A194-8 customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B7  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  316+graphite customize   

12-Bonnet

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize 

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS   1868 customize 


Q:In my condo, I have what appears to be a water relief valve of some sort right after my water inlet pipe. It's after the water cutoff valve. It's not the water heater relief valve. It has a leak, not bad, just a drip right now. It looks like a half baseball sticking out of the main inlet pipe with a bolt in the center of it. I've tried to tighten it but that makes the leak worse. First, what is this. Second, Is there an obvious fix to this. Third, if I have to get it replaced, what model/manufacturer can I get so that this doesn't happen for a long while. My plumbing is short of fifteen years old.
It sounds like a cold water relief valve, also known as a thermal expansion valve. It leaks when your city pressure exceeds 100psi (factory setting) or the set pressure. Code requires pressure to be below 80 psi. A Watts 530C will do the trick. It is adjustable. It will cost you about $30.00 - $40.00 + labor to remove old install new. If it is a pressure reducing valve, a new one will cost about $125.00. It lowers your pressure when it exceeds max allowable per the plumbing code, 80 psi here in Florida. I use the Watts 1 25AUB-Z3 Pressure Reducing Valve for these applications and set it at 60 psi.
Q:Also please tell me why globe valves are preffered for Landing valves in wet risers in firefighting and gate valves in dryrisers..
A gate valve is like a garage door. A globe, typically called a ball valve, is round with a hollow center and two (open / close), three (open / close in multiple directions) or sometimes four (open / close in multiple directions where one direction is always flowing when valve is open) side openings.
Q:Hi, i bought an xr250r 2002 model. I rebuilt the engine and put in new exhaust valves. After i did this proper compression in the motor came back and it wasnt blowing smoke anymore. I took it for a 'run-in' ride, and noticed that the engine was quite noisy. I guessed it was the valves needing adjusting. I got numbers for the valve clearences which were: .004 of in inch for the exhaust valves and .005 of an inch for the air intake. Now i have done this the compression in the bike is enormous, it is barely possible to kick over, and the motor is very noisy, there is a loud ticking noise which im guessing is still the valves. Is all this normal considering i have just rebuilt the engine, put in new valves and hardly ridden (one 50km ride)? I would like to keep riding it to run it better to see if the motor loosens up, but im scared to ride it as it is. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
.004 is a bit tight for an exhaust valve? usually this is nearer 10 thou. It is better to have slightly larger clearances to the tappets/ valves than to be too tight and risk burning your valves. You do not mention the decompressor! I'm sure your bike should have a manual decompression lever if not an auto retard unit on the cam shaft to allow you to atleast crank the engine up to TDC on the compression stroke. I suspect that is where the noise problem is coming from, either that or you might be one tooth out on your cam shaft gear allowing the piston crown to kiss the valve when it is open...hence explaining the very hard to turn over!! but see my other comment too! What ever It is time to remove the inspection covers and re examine the whole set up. BTW the bike should be an UTTER PIG to kick over compression without a decompressor!! as it has a very high compresion ratio. expect to be standing up on the kick start if you are less than 160 lb (11 stone) 78 kg
Q:Where is the illusive heater control valve?
The only valve i could think you are referring too would be the vacuum control on the back of the dash mounted heater controls. They do not have a valve in the coolant lines. The heat turned on or off by a vacuum operated door inside the heater box that merely closes and blocks the heat from escaping into the car. If you are having heater problems first make sure both lines running to the firewall feel hot/warm when engine is at temperature. Secondly you will have to find the actuators under dash on the heater box and make sure they are moving if not ck for vacuum.......
Q:So i finaly got my check valve and my airstone. The airstone is actually a flat round airstone and is 5 inches in diameter to be in my 10gallon. Is it to big? though i have a tetra whisper air pump for 10-30g.And how do i place the check valve? Do i put it closer to the tank or closer to the pump? (just to make sure since i heard so many different ways people put it). Or does it even matter?And lastly, do i put the OUT side of the check valve facing towards the tank or the pump?Thanks! after this im ready to install it!
The airstone is not too big, unless it causes the water to bubble right out of the tank. Then you will need a valve to divert the excess air to an unused air line. If the airline is already cut, just put the check valve wherever the airline ends. If it's not cut you can put it anywhere. The arrow on the check valve should point toward the aquarium. If it says IN and OUT, then the OUT is on the aquarium side. If you want to test it to be sure, blow in one end of the valve. You can't blow air into the side that connects to the aquarium. Be sure there is a drip loop in the air pump electrical cord. If water were to somehow get in the air pump or drip on it, water might follow down the outside of the electrical cord and go into the the wall outlet. To make sure that doesn't happen be sure the cord is looped down lower than the outlet and then loops back up before it's plugged in. Get a second airstone any time in the next few weeks. About once a month, trade airstones, putting the recently used one into a jar with white vinegar. A week or so of soaking will unclog the airstone so that it can be used again several times before needing to be discarded. If you do have excess air, I find that running a piece of airline tubing to a spot away from sight and putting a short piece of pipe cleaner in the far end will muffle the hissing sound of the excess air.
Q:i have an old 79 malibu and its only got a 267 in it. I wouldnt buy new valve covers because its not worth it to me but i was thinking i could clean the ones i got up a little bit. i was thinking of painting them. What kind of paint should i use? and one other thing is the gaskets. I figure while i have them pulled off i should put new gaskets on. I read up about getting all the old stuff off but i was curious still about it. I was just looking at some average ones made of cork for 10 bucks. Do i lay the sealer downthen put the gasket on , then put the valve cover on?
I would use Chevy orange heat resistant paint for the covers and as far as the gasket, when you do pull off the valve covers, you will have to clean the surfaces with a PLASTIC putty knife and maybe steel wool to smooth it out fine. DO NOT use anything metal on these surfaces as you might gouge it. Whatever you do, make sure you put rags over or inside the camshaft/valve assembly so you do not get any gasket pieces in the valves because you will have REAL problems then......Depending what kind of gasket (aftermarket) is made for your car, if it is cork, you will want to put gasket sealer on the gasket (Both Sides) first, and then place it on the surface and then put the cover on. Make sure that when you tighten the bolts, they should be torqued to specifications of your car. And if you go ahead and tighten them without a Torque Wrench, just make sure you criss-cross tighten, starting from the corners and working opposite and DO NOT over-tighten !!!!! I would strongly recommend that you torque them to whatever inch-pounds !!!!
Q:Okay so my boyfriend's father is getting a heart valve replacement....he's so nervous he cried last night when he heard it will be in 2 weeks....and he's usually one of those tough guys has anyone or know anyone who has had this type of surgery. They are leaning towards a animal (cow or pig) valve...because with mechanical you have to take blood thinners for the rest of your life...anyways if anyone knows information on this or knows the pro's and cons of the two diff. types of valves please give me info. Thanks
I'm pretty sure you've got to take a blood thinner with ANY heart valve replacement. The difference is the dosage, really. At any rate, supposedly mechanical don't wear out as easily, and doesn't get rejected as much as with the bovine or porcine valves. I would recommend he calm down a little bit, though. His worrying is only putting more stress on his heart, and if the hospital doesn't consider it enough of an emergency to schedule him immediately, I wouldn't worry so much. There have been amazing advances in cardiac surgeries, and the risks are getting smaller and smaller. Either your boyfriend or his dad's significant other should make absolute sure that he meets his surgeon, and is confident in the surgeon's abilities. If he's not confident, find another one. Good luck with it, and take care.
Q:HI ever one i have a 1969 1500 beetle engine i have just but 1600 piston and barrows on it but when i but the rockers on i have no valve gap at all. ive wound out the adjusters all the way and i still can not get a feeler gauge between the rocker and the valve. Please help cheers Adam
The problem could be that the crank shaft has not been turned to the place to adjust the valves. The push rods could be the wrong length ones too.
Q:i have an 87' monte carlo ss, 64K on 305 w/ cam, headers, roller rockers and springs. ive been seeing blue smoke out of my exhaust ALOT during start up, but it also continues to smoke at idle, i've been told it's a good chance i need my valve seals replaced and was wondering what the general ballpark was assuming there was no other complications in the process of replacing these?
well,if your valve seal,do go bad look for oil,in tail pipe,to check for bad head gasket,pressure check spark plug,with a pressure gauge,full charge battery,ingition coil off,stop from starting,remove all spark plug,strew in gauge ,checking one at a time,if two spark plugs close together read low gasket is blown,between the two,also try over flow pipe on car take off,from reservor white container,put end in a clear ,water jug,start car,run for awhile,see if you see air bubbles,in clear jar,blown gasket,but.be carful doing these tests,u-can also watch u-tube,to see how these.thing are done..
Q:I bought a plastic ball valve from Lowe's just a couple days ago and it is stuck, I haven't installed it in anything but it wont budge without a pair of channel locks. I tried wd-40 but still nothing, should I return it or keep working with it? and if I keep working what should I try?
=== take it back and get another valve .... if it doesn't work freely in your hand then the valve will be a problem if you install it ---- working with pvc you should use the purple glue that is waterproof and it is a good seal and no leaks when you have

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