• API Cast Steel Check Valve 900 Class in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 1
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve 900 Class in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 2
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve 900 Class in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 3
API Cast Steel Check Valve 900 Class in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

API Cast Steel Check Valve 900 Class in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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The features of check valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.                                                                                                         

Body-To-Bonnet Joint

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check valves ,and welded on seat can be also optional if being requested by the customer.Welded on seat is used for NPS>12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.


Standard   Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize   

Pressure   Rating

 150   Class  300 Class  600 Class  900   Class  1500 Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve   Size

 50   mm  65 mm  80 mm  100 mm  125   mm  150 mm  200 mm  250 mm 300   mm  350 mm  400 mm  450 mm  500   mm  600 mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm




 2   inch  2.5 inch  3 inch  4 inch  5   inch  6 inch  8 inch  10 inch  12   inch 14 inch  16 inch  18 inch  20   inch  24 inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A105+13Cr  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A105+Tool   Steel customize 

3-Disc

 13Cr+A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  Tool Steel+A216   WCB customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

5-Nut

 A194-8  A194   2H  A194 8M customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F316  A182-F6a  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194 2H  A194   8M  A194-8 customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B7  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  316+graphite customize   

12-Bonnet

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize 

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS   1868 customize 


Q: My AC leaks and mechanic says it is shrader valve. Is it expensive?
It is like the valve in a tire stem. No, it is dirt cheap - like four bucks if that. Why didn't mechanic just replace it? You can replace this yourself. Just go to a parts counter and ask them to look up your car and they will find a valve. Then ask them for the tool. You can probably get both for under $15. But you will have to wait until all the refrigerant leaks out of it hasn't already. You don't want to take out a valve from a pressurized system. You can also recharge the system yourself too. They now sell the hose that attaches to the can with a built in valve. It isn't difficult if you can follow directions.
Q: What is the easiest and best way to fix a leaking shut-off valve on a toilet?
Take out the old one. it is easy it just slides up the over flow tube go to a hardware store and get a replacement ball valve (Ballcock) they are just a couple bucks.slide the new one on! Take the old one when you go to get the new one.
Q: Someone explained on chevy that valve guide clearance can limit lift.
You got a couple of things mixed up Valve guide to valve spring retainer clearance is what limits lift. Thats the space from the top of valve guide to the bottom of spring retainer. Or from a lift stand mount, how much the spring/retainter can move down before bottom of retainer hits top of the guide The valve guide clearance has nothing to do with lift. Its the clearance between the inside of guide and outside of valve stem. Pretty much the amount the valve can move left to right, fowards to backwards inside the guide
Q: Need some info. Ok, four valves per cylinder is better than two valves per cylinder. Fine, why did Ford REVERT to only 3 valves (my guess is to save cost SOHC)? Audi and VW are using five valves per cylinder on some cars, does this offer any advantage over a four valve engine? Maserati even experimented with a six valve per cylinder!!!! (see link) http://www.maserati-alfieri .uk/alfier... but abandoned it (my guess is cost again?) Why are we stuck at four valves or would more valves actually render more horsepower? Pop some ideas best answer to reasonable answer...
Think of an engine as an air pump - obviously, we want the least amount of restriction for the incoming air and also the least amount for exhausting the compressed air. The ideal situation would be to remove the head during the intake stroke and put it back on during the compression stroke, but, obviously, this isn't possible. On a naturally aspirated engine, the intake is the most critical because the air is moved only by a relatively small difference in pressures. The exhaust stroke, on the other hand, is aided greatly by the super heated temperature and rapid expansion of the gasses. Two intake and one exhaust valve seems to be the most practical and efficient solution - adding more vales means smaller valves and an increase in the overall complexity. I seriously doubt that Maserati ever abandoned ANY automotive idea due to cost restraints. It's far more likely that adding more valves than three or four simply resulted in diminishing returns. Sometimes the allure of a new buzz phrase is nothing more than a marketing ploy - a 16 valve, DOHC, four cylinder engine, for example, is a pretty impressive resume for an engine, regardless of whether it actually is the optimum performance set up or not.
Q: the air valve, how does it propel a paintball in a blowback operated paintball gun how does the size/shape/?? of the valve impact how fast the paintball shoots?
The majority of blowback paintball guns use a pin valve, which is opened when struck by the hammer. The hammer is held in the back position, with the spring compressed, by a sear. When the trigger is pulled, the hammer is propelled forward by the spring, into the valve. These sorts of markers generally use a “stacked tube” design, in which the valve and hammer is contained in the lower tube, while the bolt, which is connected to the hammer, is in the upper tube. The gas released by the valve is then simultaneously channeled up to the bolt to fire the paintball, and back to push the hammer back into the ****** position (hence the name “blowback”). Poppet valves are usually easy to replace and require little, if any, maintenance. The downside to this design, however, is its high operating pressure, which leads to a larger recoil and arguably less accuracy. The valve is usually designed to accommodate a specific operating pressure. Low pressure valves provide quieter operation and increased gas efficiency when tuned properly. However, excessively low pressure can decrease gas efficiency as dramatically as excessively high pressure. The volume of gas released by the valve directly affects the paintball's velocity. The velocity adjuster alters the pretension on the hammer spring which controls how long the pin valve is held open for, or more correctly how much gas must be released to push it back into the ****** position. EDIT - Sorry but wouldn't even know where to start on designing a valve.
Q: The atrioventricular valves will be open whenA. Atria are in diastole and ventricles are in systole B. Pressure in the ventricles is greater than the pressure in the great arteries C. The ventricles are being passively filled D. The ventricles are in isovolumetric contraction
Answer: (c) The ventricles are being passively filled. During diastole, a normally-functioning mitral valve opens as a result of increased pressure from the left atrium as it fills with blood (preloading). As atrial pressure increases above that of the left ventricle, the mitral valve opens. Opening facilitates the passive flow of blood into the left ventricle. Diastole ends with atrial contraction, which ejects the final 20% of blood that is transferred from the left atrium to the left ventricle. This amount of blood is known as end diastolic volume (EDV), and the mitral valve closes at the end of atrial contraction to prevent a reversal of blood flow. Mitral valve also opens when right ventricle is passively filled.
Q: I got a french horn, but don't know if I can just use the valve oil I use for my trumpet. please help, thnx in advance :D
Yes and no. Most pro repair shops use a heavier oil on the bearings and your valve oil on the inside of the valve. Confused? On both ends of the valve are the real friction points, the bearings. One can be seen under the valve cap. Take the cap off and push the valve, the little post you see moving in the middle is the bearing. The other one is on the underside. It comes out of the valve body and has the string post screwed on it. The only point to oil the bottom bearing is that little crack you see where it comes out of the valve body. You put a drop of sewing machine oil on those 2 bearing spots, 3 in 1 oil also works. Then pull a valve slide and put a few drops of valve oil down into the valve. That is how it is done. BTW, there is no difference between valve oil and rotor oil most of the time.
Q: like they say on 4 strokes you gotta go get valve jobs, and they cost bout 300 they say? well what does the mechanic do? can it be done at home and your just adjusting them?
Take the head to a machine shop you have to grind the valves or replace then,Same with the seats Then replace the guides and adjust the valves Not a driveway Job
Q: My furnace cut out about a year ago. The hvac guy i used told me the gas valve was no good and that the flu was partially blocked. I cleaned out the flu, he replaced the gas valve ($700+) and it worked great for a year. Today the furnace does not fire up. Pilot is working. I cleaned out the flu (there was definitely quite a bit of debris, so that was probably the cause for the shut off) .... The flu is now clear, but when i turn the system back on the thermostat calls for heat, but there is no gas flow to the burner... could the valve have failed that quick, or should i be looking at something else like the CO sensor or something... just looking for some direction before shelling out another 700 bucks... Thanks in advance for any ideas or assistance....
There are a few possibilities. The valve runs on a low voltage line. The low voltage is provided by a transformer. It it possible the transformer is bad. Be sure the power switch to the furnace is on. (should be on the side of the furnace. Easy way to check is (on the thermostat) turn the fan switch from auto to run. The blower fan should come on. Check that the gas valve is in the ON position.(if you have had to light the pilot it may still be in pilot position.) Another possibility is a clogged gas line. If you have an older home rust can accumulate inside the iron gas lines. Where the gas line attaches to the furnace there should be a drip leg. This is a short length of pipe that points down with a cap on it from the TEE that goes into the furnace. This short piece of pipe is to catch any moisture or rust that comes thru the line. First TURN OFF the gas at the shut off in the pipe it's self. This is a quarter turn valve. When the handle is in line with the pipe the gas is on. When it is opposite the pipe (pointing out to the side) the gas is off. After turning the gas off, remove the cap from the bottom of the drip leg to remove any accumulation.USE PIPE DOPE not teflon tape when putting the cap back on.Turn the gas valve back on and check for leaks.

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