• Air Operated Double Diaphragm Pump With High Quality System 1
  • Air Operated Double Diaphragm Pump With High Quality System 2
  • Air Operated Double Diaphragm Pump With High Quality System 3
  • Air Operated Double Diaphragm Pump With High Quality System 4
Air Operated Double Diaphragm Pump With High Quality

Air Operated Double Diaphragm Pump With High Quality

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Specification

Item:
Diaphragm Pump
Material:
Cast Iron ;Stainless Steel
Original:
China
Exporting countries:
Ameircan,Japan,Australian etc
Power:
Pneumatic
Application:
Customer Required

Features:

QBK Pneumatic Diaphragm Pumps also called Air Operated Double Diaphragm Pumps (AODD Pump) are rugged and durable self-priming, double diaphragm pumps, can handle any products that pours, from clean water to highly viscous, abrasive and chemically materials.

 

♦ Simple structure, easy to use and maintenance, less wearing parts. It can be working under liquid and running dry as well.

 

♦Suction up to 5m, max discharge pressure is 7bar, max grain diameter is 10mm, max liquid viscosity is 10,000C.s.t.

 

♦ Material: PP, Aluminum, Cast Iron, Stainless Steel. Diaphragm material: NBR, Viton, Teflon, FEP etc.

 

♦ Flow rate can be controlled from zero to max flow by increasing or decreasing air pressure.

 

 

 Specification:

Model

Diameter

(mm)

Max Flow

(L/min)

Suction

(m)

Max Discharge Pressure (Bar)

Max Grain Dia (mm)

Max Air Consumption (L/min)

QBK-8

8

16

5

6.9

1

300

QBK-10/15

10/15

20

5

6.9

1

300

QBK-25

25

100

5

6.9

2.5

600

QBK-40

40

140

5

6.9

4.5

600

QBK-50

50

240

5

6.9

8

900

QBK-65

65

280

5

6.9

8

900

QBK-80

80

400

5

6.9

10

1500

QBK-100

100

480

5

6.9

10

1500

 

APPLICATION:

 

1.The pump can suck the peanut, pickles, tomato slurry, red sausage, chocolate, hops and syrup etc.
2. The pump can suck the paint, pigment, glue and adhesive etc.
3. The pump can suck various glazed slurries of tile, porcelain, brick and chinaware etc.
4. The pump can suck various grinding materials, corrosive agent and clean the oil dirt etc.
5. The pump can suck various toxin and flammable or volatility liquid etc.
6. The pump can suck various wedge water, cement slurry and mortar etc.
7. The pump can suck various strong acid, alkali and corrosive liquid etc.
8. It can be used as a front-step tranmission device of the solid and liquid separation equipment.


Picture Shows

Air Operated Double Diaphragm Pump With High Quality





Q: I just noticed a slight leak from my water pump. About the size of my fist. I called one mechanic and was told the 2001 BMW Z3's water pump seals are tight and do not leak with the car is running (engine is hot) but once the car cools the water pump seals expand resulting in the small leak, that I shouldn't worry about it unless it leaks more, the engine over-heats, or dash light turns on. The BMW said I should have the water pump replaced but he may have just said that to make a repair sale. Anyone out there know the truth?
Some seepage through the bearing seal is normal for new pumps. I've never had it happen to me, but that is what I read in the information sheet that the pump came with. If it's leaking out of the gasket area, then you will need to put on a new seal. If the new seal doesn't have anything on it to help the gasket seal such a Felpro's printoseal, use RTV sealant on it and allow it to cure before driving. It is sticky and messy, but it works great.
Q: 1978 Ranchero 500. Pumps leaking like crazy. I have a belt to remove, which i assume is the serpentine belt? Its tight as can be on the pulleys. I have no clue how to remove this and any other advice on this do-it-yourself project would be much appreciated. Thanks
Replacing a water pump when you don't even know if you're talking about the serpentine belt or not, is not a DIY job.
Q: Water pump is STILL constantly running! Since this past thursday, we did:new check valvenew pressure controlnew foot valve (well)well is not dryprime, air pressure are finewe have above ground pump in the basement. we called a plumber and he could do nothing! we have water and pump/tank and everything seem working fine.But the pump is on and off every 30 seconds - 1 minute. It is so annoying and out of ideas what could be wrong.My husband think it could be the tank and suggested that we replace it. But the plumber didn't say anything about the tank. And it is not too old.Do you think it is the tank and we need to replace it? If so, we will do it on this Sunday morning even though it might cost extra charge! please help!!!
ITS A WATER LOGGED TANK, DONT REPLACE IT JUST DRAIN IT drain the tank, you need the air pocket in the tank. drain the pressure tank completely, let it fill it again, and have an air pocket in it. if it has a rubber bladder in it , the bladder could be leaking and all the air has been replaced with water, drain the tank and see if it feels empty after it is drained, if not the rubber bladder is full of water, new tank is needed. with no air pocket the pump is going to keep cycling on and off. the pressure switch comes on at 20 lbs, shuts off at 40 lbs. the only way it gets the 20 lbs difference is with the air pocket expanding. if all is well, lets say it takes 2 minutes for the pressure to drop from 40 to 20 with a faucet wide open. with no air pocket it will drop from 40 to 20 in a half a second, pump kicks on to pressureize it and its back to 40 in a half a second. pump is on and off, on and off over and over over. with an air pocket it will take the pump several minutes to bring it back up to 40 from 20.
Q: I have a 1992 Pontiac Sunbird LE. It has 4 cyl. and it has 98,000+ miles on it. I took it in to get the oil changed and they inspected the car for a noise it was making. Found out the water pump was gone and the timing belt was worn. Need replacement on both. They quoted me 670.00 for the repair! STEEP! The part should cost about 20.00 max. How do I replace the water pump myself? And the timing belt? Do I need special tools? If I can't do it pretty easily myself, how much should I pay for the repair? I'm not made of money, but I need my car to run to get me to work everyday! I can't afford much, so anything around 200-300 is probably the most I can spend on the repair. What should I do?
On okorder , your timing belt with cost $15.99 and your water pump will cost $35.19 for a new one. Keep in mind that most shops charge more than that as this is how they make a profit. Depending on what their labor charge is, that doesn't sound too far out of line. I just did a timing belt and water pump on a Chrylser with a 3.5 today and it cost about $600 to do that. The water pump on your car is driven by the timing belt and is not an easy task to accomplish if you have no idea what you are doing. You can easily destroy this engine. If you are not sure how to replace an air filter, this would definately be out of range.
Q: i have a well that i am trying to pump and i need to have one pump to bring the water up from the well, and one pump to take it out to our lawn. i just wanted to know if i could hook the irrigation pump directly into the well pump, or if that would be damaging to the pump?thanks!
Yes you can your pumps will not damage
Q: Water pump "rated lift: 6m" what do you mean?
Lift refers to the weight of fluid per unit weight after the pump, the pump is an important working parameter, also known as pressure head. Simply stated: rated lift 6M refers to the rated operating conditions of the pump, the increase of energy 6M water column height. Here's an example to help you understand:Example 2-1 the head of a centrifugal pump is now measured. The refrigerant is 20 DEG C water, the measured flow rate is 60m^3/h, vacuum pump inlet meter 0.02Mpa, outlet pressure gauge readings for the 0.47Mpa (g), the two known table between the vertical distance is 0.45M if the suction pipe of same diameter and pipe pressure pump, calculate the pump head.Solution:Check the water density at 20 centigrade 1.0*10e3kg/m3,H=0.45m (1Mpa approximately equal to 100 m water column)P exports =0.47Mpa (0.47*100 m water column, =47 m water column)P imports =-0.02Mpa (0.02*100 m water column, =2 m water column)P is the density of the liquidH=h+ (P -p / P g=0.45+ export import) (0.47*10e6- (-0.02*10e6)) / (10e3*9.887) =50.5m (water)
Q: How does a pump get water from a low low elevation to a higher elevation.
One okorder /
Q: My water pump keeps getting quite hot after each use. Everything seems to be working properly, except I think that the heat may cause it to burn out and that would cause a huge problem. My pump pulls water from a ground level water tank and pushes water up three flats to the part of my house used for living quarters. The pressure setting is set to cut out at 40psi and cut in at 25psi. What can I do myself before calling in expensive experts?
Probably needs new motor brushes.
Q: I have a Stamas boat that I am in the middle of restoring. It has 2 chevy 350's, with borg warner (sp) tranny's, and v-drives. Anyway, it has standard water pumps to cool the engines, and it had 2 Sherwood pumps to circulate the water to cool the tranny's, and v-drives. First, I am using the boat in Lake Michigan only, the water is very cool year round since it is such a big body of fresh water. I was wondering if there was any recommendation on possibly using 2 electric pumps to circulate the water? If so, what would a good unit be? Second, the transmission coolers were brass, with a honey comb in the center for the ATS fluid to run through, and the water would run on the outside to cool the fluid. Is this a more effective way to cool the fluid than with those expensive brass fitting? Just checking before I spend a few hundred on them to see if a better way to cool my engine and tranny's, in all honestly though, I am more worried about effectiveness than cost.
Why okorder /
Q: I don't want to have to rent or purchase a electric pump to pump the water out of my pool so are there other ways to get the water out besides the obvious (a bucket and alot of people). I am really tight on money so purchasing a device to do the work isn't a real option but I really need to drain the pool without damaging it.
On the off chance that you have a close area that is down hill from the bottom of the pool you could siphon it. Not a likely situation though. Siphoning is using a small hose, garden hose will probably be too big and sucking on the end of the hose to draw water though it. Once it starts flowing if the end is downhill from the bottom of the pool it will drain the pool all on its own.

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