• Slurry Pump System 1
Slurry Pump

Slurry Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or L/C
Min Order Qty:
1 Set set
Supply Capability:
1000 Sets Per Year set/month

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Pump has no failure-prone carbon brush or shaft seal so that a robust and long service life could be expected.
Q: :) approximatley how many and where would you buy them :/ :) x peacce dudes
LIKE A BAJILLION!!! You can never have too many water pumps. You buy them from the water pump store on the corner of 85th and Broadway, next to the Wachovia Bank branch across the street. P.S.: Africa is NOT a country. LMAO!!!
Q: Which professional friends ask, I encountered a problem in the design of fire pump head 90 meters, flow rate is 20/S, power is 37KW, but the construction side to buy the pump head and flow are achieved, but the power is only 30KW, this relationship? If you can, let me know by the way, thank you
No problem, despite the good use of different water pump factory manufacturing process is different, the product of the rich value of different factors, power difference is inevitable, as long as the flow and head to meet your use requirements.The calculation formula tells you: your flow is 72 tons / hour, lift 90 meters, motor power P=2.73HQ/0.75*1.2=28.5KW
Q: I have a 1969 Chrysler with a new 3 core radiator. It still has the stock water pump and I am wondering if a high volume pump would make it run cooler at higher speeds. It runs hotter when you get off the freeway. I have flushed the system and installed a new thermostat. I also replaced the fan clutch. I am at a loss of why it still runs warmer than the 180* thermostat.
High Volume Water Pump
Q: Okay heres the deal Its knockin and I tthink the water pump is going would this be a cause of this and when it heats up it knocks but when its cold it doesnt knock also once it gets hot it shuts off and starts to smoke what could this be is it maybe the waterpump when I try to re start the car after it shuts it self off it only just clicks wount turn over thanks
I'm sorry to tell you, but from your description it sounds as if you have major internal engine damage. A water pump just won't cause the symptoms you are describing. I'd have to say your engine is close to seizing up entirely - the knocking sounds like rod knock in the bottom end of the motor.
Q: it is a mazda b3000 pick up v6,it is coming from behind water pump,but it is not all the time, i would think that if pump is going it would be all the time, but it will go bone dry for a few dayswhen it does leak it leaves about an 8 inch spot on the driveway,temp gauge goes to its regular spot and does not move,any suggestions would be helpful,thanks
stop feeding the neiborhood cats antifreeze thats why there looking mangey look let the car warm up or top it off and come back you have to figure when it leaks dont check it when its hot have it replaced dont overlook the obvious dont work with out jack stands dont operate on just a jack and wear your safty glasses check the chilsons website use metric
Q: i have a 1991 Jeep Cherokee, started overheating last week, i flushed out the radiator with water, i replaced the thermostat, overheated again, i felt the top radiator hose it was cold. so i replaced the water pump. still overheated. every time i drain the system when i refill it i had red to fill the radiator and reservoir, leave the radiator cap off, then start the engine and turn the heat on max, the radiator burps the air bubble out, then the coolant level in the radiator starts going up and down, my thermostat is rated at 195, when the guage hits 210 hot coolant sprays out of the radiator, but the top radiator hose is cold, what am i doing wrong? is there air still trapped in that top radiator hose?
id say its the radiator after all what ya replaced. have it checked out at a shop. before ya do though ya might do a complete flush of the motor and the cooling system. might be a blockage in a water jacket in the motor. ya can buy the flush kit at any parts store, its simply a T that ya splice into on of the heater core hoses,hook up a water hose,turn heater on, and wait with the engine running. if theres any blockage it will spit and sputter till its pushed out with the water pressure. let it idle till clear water comes out then drain and add coolant. try this first with water only and if it doesnt solve your problem id say ya need a radiator.
Q: the car is a 1973 Pontiac Lemans, 350 V8. Water pump needs to be replaced. It's obviously a mechanical pump that's in there now. I was thinking of getting something with more capacity (to start off) as I feel the car could do with a better cooling system (and I have to get a water pump anyways). I was thinking of getting an electrical pump as that would also free up a bit of power from the engine. From what I gather, by doing this it seems I need to switch to an electrical fan also. Is that the case? Any advice/opinions on electrical systems and set ups? Any recommendations?Thanks in advance to anyone who answers. Much appreciated.
Most 1973 era vehicles have a clutch on the fan which stops turning at higher engine rpm which saves horsepower. Your best option is to locate a high capacity water pump for your car or locate a radiator with more passes than the stock radiator. A radiator shop should be able to give you advise on both. Remember, the water pump is belt driven along with several other items on the engine, so replacing the water pump with an electric one might be far more involved and expensive. Plus, the water pump has a seal that must work properly for the engine to retain its cooling fluid. There are aftermarket cooling fans that can be installed in front of or behind the radiator to provide additional air flow, the local auto parts store should have a listing or a company like Summit. Fans can be manually turned on or have a thermo swithch which turns the fan on at a certain temp. These are usually options with the electric fan kits. Good luck.
Q: how do i remove and replace the water pump on a 2003 ford focus with a 2.0 engine
Take it to a dealership.
Q: We still have water, but it keeps constantly running, and won't stop. The pump itself got warm/hot, and we're afraid that it's going to get ruined or blow up or something. We turned it off for about 30 minutes, then back on to bottle up some water. It's the middle of a snowstorm, and a horrible time for a water pump to stop working, help please!! Any suggestions and fixes, please let me know. Thanks!!! :)
You did not say if you had a submersible well pump or water jet. I am assuming that if you can feel the pump building heat it is of the jet variety. If the pump keeps running it is because the pressure switch is bad or because there is not enough water coming from the well to allow the pump to build shut off pressure. Try manually shutting off the pump for several hours and then switch it back on. If it shuts off on its own then you have a low water supply problem and may need a deeper well. If it does not shut off and you have good water pressure, then shut off the pump and turn off the electrical breaker and remove the pressure switch by disconnecting the wires and screwing the pressure switch off. Inspect the small water line to the switch for blockage from sediment or corrosion. If it is blocked you may get lucky and only have to clear out the line and screw things back together. If you are not lucky, replace the water shut off switch with a new one and you should be good to go. If you still do not have water, the intake screen to the pump could be plugged up and will have to be cleaned.which involves pulling the pipe from the well.
Q: 94 f150,302 engine. the water pump comes with 2 gaskets. one behind a metal plate on the pump and another for mounting it to the motor. my question is do you have to use sealant of any kind on both gaskets or can you just bolt it on?
gasket seal wouldn't hurt
We have powerful technical force, good equipment, advanced techniques, high-level automatization and a full set of advanced test equipment. We pay attention to product innovation and technical reform meeting ISO9001:2000 standard. With powerful technical force and excellent technical people, we are able to research and develop different kinds of high performance motors.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location Zhejiang,China
Year Established 1984
Annual Output Value
Main Markets North America
South America
Eastern Europe
Southeast Asia
Africa
Oceania
Mid East
Eastern Asia
Western Europe
Company Certifications ISO 9001:2000;CE

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3. Manufacturer Capability

a) Trade Capacity
Nearest Port 3,000-5,000 square meters
Export Percentage 81% - 90%
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b) Factory Information
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines 3
Contract Manufacturing OEM Service Offered Design Service Offered
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