• 7.5KW Water Pump For Agricultural Irrigation 380V System 1
7.5KW Water Pump For Agricultural Irrigation 380V

7.5KW Water Pump For Agricultural Irrigation 380V

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
5000 unit/month

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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin:Henan, China (Mainland)

  • Model Number:175QJ40-36/3

  • Theory:Centrifugal Pump

  • Structure:Multistage Pump

  • Usage:Water

  • Power:Electric

  • Standard or Nonstandard:Standard

  • Fuel:Electric

  • Pressure:Low Pressure

  • Application:Submersible

  • Material:cast iron/stainless steel/nodular cast iron

  • Color:As per request

  • Pump Flow:40m3/h

  • Head Meter:36m

  • Min. Well diamater:175mm

  • Motor power:7.5kw,380V, 50HZ, three-phases

  • MOQ:1set

  • Payment:L/C;T/T

  • Delivery term:5-7days after payment confirmation

  • Price:299USD~499USD

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:Wooden package with iron belt or as per request
Delivery Detail:5-7 days after payment confirmation

Specifications

7.5kw water pump for agricultural irrigation 380V
1.Flow range:10~600m3/h
2.Caliber scope: 32~203mm
3.Lift scope: 5~60mm

7.5kw water pump for agricultural irrigation 380V

1. Working Parameters:

(1). Flow range10~600m3/h,

(2). Lift scope within 5~600m;

(3). Caliber scope 32~203mm,

(4). Temperature range-15~80° C.

2. Products Overview:

  SQJ Series submersible pumps widely used in farmland irrigation, spray irrigation and water-use, industrial and civil

buildings, also the drainage system to level hills, mountains of diversion, in the low-lying areas dunes, urban and rural

mining supply, drainage and other water conservancy facilities. Its characteristics are the electrical, water pumps and

assembled into a simple structure, the installation of the demolition of convenience, small footprint, the use of simple maintenance, safe reliable operation, no water pollution and so on.

3. Use conditions:

(1). 380 V bias voltage does not exceed + -5% and 50 HZ frequency, and the deviation is not more than + -1% of the

      three-phase power supply.

(2). Electrical cavity must fill water.

(3). The first-class pump impeller should at least go into the dynamic water level 2 m below surface. Static pump unit

      immersed under water shall not be greater than 70 m.

(4). Electrical from the bottom of the bottom of the well shall be not less than 3 m.

(5). The water temperature no higher than 20 ° C, QJR-temperature hot water pump up to 80 ° C.

(6). Water and sand content (by mass) of not more than 0.01%.

(7). Water PH 6.5-8.5.

(8). The hydrogen sulfide in water content is not more than 1.5 mg / L.

(9). Water should ensure continued operation of the pump needs.

4.Structure feature:

(1). pump: The pump is installed on the upper part of the pump units.It's centrifugal and has water lubricated

a. bearing mounted with the motor shaft by a joint.

b. There is a check valve on top of the pump which could prevent rapaid inverse rotation from backword flow.

c. The pump unit should be immersed below the dynamic water lever when in using.

(2). motor: The motor is installed under the pump.

a. It is a water filled in hermatical structure.The stator windings are water-tight and PE insulating and multi-layers are covered with nylon.

b. The motor bearing is water-lubricated.The inner motor contains clean water to cool the water body and the bearing.

c. The rubber diaphgram adjusts the pressure change caused when temperature rises.

d. There is a sand resistance system in the upper part of the motor.

Q: QDX is a submersible pump. What does "X" mean?
It should be small.There is no "downdraft" term;Do not say submersible pumps do not suck, what kind of pump is not on suction, or left and right suction
Q: I was was wondering how to calculate the head flow rate from a water pump. The water pump outputs 2 bar, which means that it will push water up to 20m in height. It also has a throughput of 2000 litres per hour.I want to pump water up to my loft, which is approx 15m above the pump.What will the flow rate be at this height? Is it a linear calculation of percentage of drop from maximum head height multiplied by the flow rate, (eg 5/20 * 2000 = 500 litres per hour?), or is it more complicated than that?
If your pump has more capacity than you need, you can always restrict the discharge and create extra artificial head.
Q: I replaced the water pump on my 2001 dodge dakota and I still have a leak coming from somewhere. I don't know if i put the bolts in the wrong holes or what. Some bolts were long and some were short. Is there a diagram that shows where which bolts go where?
no their isn't any diagrams on it but there is a way to identify them, just run them in the hole dry and see if they bottom out and do them one at a time,as a rule i always mark them when i remove them then this doesn't ever happen,but you can get them figured out by dry testing them and also look at the difference in the thickness on the water pump,good luck on it,
Q: I went to have my car inspected for a leak at a friendly garage I know. They said I need a new water pump and in the mean time just keep the levels always checked and filled. Is it safe to drive for a while or can the pump totally fail and overheat the engine. As far as I know it's just leaking at this stage, the pulley and belts are fine.
Yes it could fail and end up doing more damage then just fixing it now.Pay now or pay more later if something happens.
Q: Ok i was wondering which is the from hose off of the motor the bottom or top since i thinl my heater core hose are reversed and i only get nuke warm air and not hot and yes ive got a brand new heater core, new anti freese, new thermostat and gaskets and all hoses are clear and not rust in the system
I think the info you are looking for is which heater hose supplies the heater core and which hose returns the water to the system. The heater core has two connections, the bottom is usually water in, the top water out. Generally the hose from the top of the engine supplies the heater core and the hose going to the water pump is returning back to the system. Having cleared that up, it doesn't really matter, even if the hoses are reversed, coolant will flow through the heater core regardless, unless there is a control built into one of the heater hoses that actually cuts off the flow of coolant to the heater core. Some trucks have them some don't. If yours does, check that it is working properly or remove it altogether. Now let's examine the possible source of your problem. I would look at either the heater control in the cab or the heater box itself. In the early 70's GM started using pneumatics, and vacuum operated components for their environmental controls. Vacuum operated doors opened and closed to allow airflow to different parts of the system, A/C, defroster, vents, heat, etc. A vacuum leak, a kinked hose, a bad control will cause the doors to stay closed, giving the illusion that there is no heat. By the same token, the wrong door stuck open could allow excessive outside air to mix with the heated air effectively cooling it off, but that is not likely. Check the main control in the cab, and the vacuum actuators and hoses. If by some chance yours still has the steel cables, make sure they are well lubricated, connected, and functioning.
Q: So I have a 2.4L chrysler cirrus. The water pump appears to be not working(pumping the fluid through) and the car over heats. They location is on the side since its a front wheel drive car. I have both a Chilton and Haynes manual and they both say i need to loosen the front engine mount and lower it. Thats about it really..Now i was wonder couldnt that mess up something. I dont plan on doing this myself but i would like to know how. Is it possible for the engine to fall out? Might sound stupid but im not sure how all that will work so i would like to know. Thanks -Joe
No worries.. there are sometimes four mounts on a transversed engine. (front wheel drive) two at the top, on the frame rail supports, or on the inner fenders, these hold most of the weight of the engine and trans, there are normally two more, but I have seen only one used in some models, these are used to support the engine from twisting or rock on the upper mounts, due to tork or braking forces of the engine. removing ether of these mounts will not effect the support of the engine, as the two upper mounts do all the supporting of the drive-train. Loosening the front mount is safe, just remember that once the front mount is removed, a certain amount of swing or free play will result, as the engine will now just be hanging from it's top mounts, and will hang freely from it's center of gravity, so expect it to move some when mount is loosened or removed, be careful not to get your hand, or other part of the body, pinched or caught when the weight shifts. go slow.. and nobody get hurt... with the possible exception of a few busted knuckles.
Q: We have a 3-story (including ground floor) house. We have 2 bathrooms.We need to invest in a water pump to deliver water from ground floor to all floors + 2 reservoir tanks (one located on first floor, and the second tank located on the second floor).Which water pump do you recommend among these:(1) Valco 261PL or Valco 261PT(2) Davey HS50-05TI'd be MOST grateful if you could kindly advice me on any reliable brand that you know (apart the ones that I mentioned). We're basically looking for a very reliable pump up to around $700 (preferably less).BTW, according to you, what's the typical horsepower we should be looking for? Will 1hp suffice??Thank you very much!
I was looking for the similar answers.
Q: I have a refrigerator that has the built in water dispenser and ice maker but it is in a location that does not have a water source, i would like to set up water tank to pump into the fridge but not sure what type of pump or system is needed to accomplish this i know the fridge does not have one built in, it needs the line pressure to circulate the water.any help would be great, thank you
5 Gallon Water Dispenser Pump
Q: I have 1 92 cadillac sedan deville and I am takin a 12 hour road trip tomorrow and I want to know if my water pump is goin bad or is it the fuel pump? Please help driving by myself and don't wanna get stranded anywhere. thank you in advance
Prior to the cars coolant getting hot, remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Let it run for 5 minutes or so. Look into the radiator and see if the coolant is moving like a jacuzzi. If the coolant is swishing around strongly, the pump is good, if not, wait another 5 minutes for the thermostat to open. If after waiting, the coolant still has no movement, I would say the thermostat may be stuck closed. Unless there is a leak or noise coming from the water pump, don;t worry about it. They tell you when a problem is present. Noises or leaks will be the sign of a bad pump. If you see none of these signs, don't worry and enjoy your trip. Good Luck...
Q: could it be the water pump??
Overheating can be caused by many things such as : the fan, the fan motor ,the water pump, or a fuse. Overheating is a trail an error task. since you already changed the thermosatate the next thing you need to do is check the fan motor.

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