• WQ series Designed Sewage Submersible Centrifugal Pumps System 1
  • WQ series Designed Sewage Submersible Centrifugal Pumps System 2
  • WQ series Designed Sewage Submersible Centrifugal Pumps System 3
WQ series Designed Sewage Submersible Centrifugal Pumps

WQ series Designed Sewage Submersible Centrifugal Pumps

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
200 unit/month

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1. Product Introduction

WQ series submersible sewage pump is mainly used for municipal work, industrial building, hotels, hospitals, civil air defense, mines, etc. It can be widely used in transfer waste water, rainwater and living water etc. which contains solid grains and various long fibers CNBM WQ series sewage submersible pump have many advantages, such as, hi-efficiency, circumvolution proof, blockage free, auto-coupling, hi-reliability and auto-control, etc.

 

2. Technical Performance

Discharge diameter: 50~600 mm

Capacity: 10~8000m³/h

Head: 5~60m

Power: 1.5~315kw

Diameter of pass solids: 20~145mm

 

3. Operation Condition

1). Rated Voltage: 380V(660V), Frequency: 50Hz, 3-phase AC.

2). Temperature of medium under 40ºC.

3). PH value: 4~10.

4). Volume ratio of solid in medium below 2%.

5). Density of medium should be lower than 12000kg/m³.

 

4. Structure Characteristic

WQ series submersible sewage pump is equipped with status indicator and protection device to ensure for pump safe and reliable operating.

1). The unique cable airproof is adopted, avoid leakage of cable.

2).  Heat protector in stator assure of operating life of the motor.

3).  The pump adopts outer recycling cooling design with motor power more than 18.5kw, which can keep the pump operating safely under the lowest water level.

4).  A floating switch is installed at the bottom of motor chamber to protect the mechanical seal in the motor side.

5).  The oil-water probe is installed at the up end of the oil chamber between pump and motor that can protect the mechanical seal in the side. If leakage occurs, the system will signalize and start protection.

6).  Adopt perfect mechanical seal, the sealing material adopt tungsten carbide, silicon carbide and hard metal alloy, which can prevent the water from entering into the motor, and keep the operating reliable and safety.

7).  The auxiliary impeller can balance the pressure outside of the mechanical seal, prevent the water entering into the oil chamber and prolong the life of the motor.

8).  Unique impeller design, wide passage allow large solid and long fiber passing through freely, it features non-clog, convolve-proof and good passing ability.

9).  The changeable wearing ring is installed between the impeller and the volute to keep the optimum operation conditions.

 

5. Impeller Design Characteristics

For the feculence pass freely, it must be widen the flowing passage of impeller, for the big pump, can used for double-vane, or three-vane, for the small pump, it used for single(double) flowing passage, like a bent pipe has same section, it has a good passing characteristic, avoid stop, convolve caused by slowing current possibly. The especially flowing passage of impeller, cooperate with logical volute, made the paper, soft goods, garbage bag and other material in sewage can passing freely and the pump have no vibration in the course of running-in and load through the impeller balance between dynamic and static state.

 

6. FAQ

1). How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.

2) How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

3) Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

4) Do you have self-priming pumps?

Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

WQ series Designed Sewage Submersible Centrifugal Pumps

WQ series Designed Sewage Submersible Centrifugal Pumps




Q: I have a 1999 Chrysler LHS. Recently, the water pump started leaking and it ruined the timing belt. I brought it to a mechanic that I've never used before, so I have no idea how reliable they are. They now told me that my brake lines blew. Can the leaking water pump also cause brake lines to rot?
Very doubtful. Even getting anti-freeze on a timing belt should not ruin that. If you had no idea when it was last changed, and it showed signs of cracking, then it would be a good idea to replace it. Make sure to retain mileage records of when it was done. Did he specifically say the brake line rot was related? There are metal lines leading out to the suspension points and then rubber reinforced hoses for the last foot to 18 inches to the backing plate/brake caliper. Usually the rubber line is the first to go. The metal lines can last many decades.
Q: As I wrote last night, I have a Isuzu Rodeo V6 3.2L 4X4. I guess I misunderstood my husband. I talked to him this morning and he said that it did overheat but the gauges on the inside of the car wasn't showing that it was overheating. It wasn't spewing coolant but the coolant that was just filled up a couple of weeks ago is empty. Does anyone know what the problem is?
you need to have your coolant system pressure checked asap,by a technician at a shop you trust,,get some friends recomendations,if you dont have a regular mechanic. while you dont list the year,or milage of your izuzu, water pumps can fail at any time,and i have replaced them under warrenty,on vehicles with as little as 20000 miles on them. a failed water pump can cause the overheating,,a stuck thermostat,can cause overheating,also a partially clogged radiator can cause this problem,but diagnosis should be done by a reputable shop. one last problem that can cause the overheating,is blown headgaskets,or a cracked head,an exsperienced technician can detect this by performing a hydrocarbon test on your coolant system. also you said your temperature gauge is not working? have a technician check the temp gauge sending unit,,it sounds like it needs replacement. i know car troubles are hard to swallow this close to CHRISTMAS,but get the vehicle to a shop asap,driving the vehicle while its overheating can cause perminent engine damage. i hope this information helps you
Q: Does anyone know where to find small A/C powered submersible pumps, that operate at 20-25 psi? I can only find D/C pumps for ship use.I need one for running humidifiers and misters for large terrariums
AC pumps are usually rated by flow rate, not PSI, if you restrict the flow, but do not regulate the pressure of an AC pump, they will usually over heat. the first answer had a good source for the pump. you might consider a DC pump for ship use and get a 12V DC power supply for it.
Q: i wanna use a water pump to pump air...but im afraid that it might burn or sth....
No. A centrifugal type water pump wouldn't move much air, and a constant displacement type would be designed to be lubricated by water.
Q: I'm building a 79 SBC (old style) 350 and have a new stock water pump...what hose and where does it go from the top of the water pump to wherever? Heater hose? Or can I just leave it plugged. No A/C I just need a heater/defroster, etc...
New thermostat, yet have you ever tried a decrease temp thermostat? Our RV 479 CI used to run a million/2 way up and three/4 in end/bypass and close to the pink line up mountain roads. I placed a decrease thermostat and it runs a million/4 and <a million/2 end/bypass. severe temps are dry out electric powered cord rubber insulators and that i have had to replace diverse the ignition wires. also it is frustrating to crank reason you have become vapor lock. The gas contained in the gas is so warm is turns to vapor and the gas pump can no longer longer suck gas because it isn't reliable adequate to suck vapor, in ordinary words liquid gas. if so, flooded start up tactics might want to artwork. floor the gas, shop it floored and crank the starter. Pump like loopy also, yet shop you foot in truth floored. it would want to start up.
Q: I have a new water pump with its new gasket to be installed tomorrow. Do I still need to apply a gasket sealer (blue RTV silicone) on the gasket itself? If I do, do I need to apply it on both sides of the gasket? Thank you.
It doesn't hurt. You just need it on one side. It is best to put it on the water pump and let it dry a bit then put the gasket on. The silicone will hold the gasket in place so you can put the water pump on a little easier.
Q: how to replace water pump in a 96 F150?
1. drain coolant 2. remove engine fan and clutch assembly 3. remove radiator hose connection at water pump 4. remove water pump 5. clean water pump to engine mating surfaces 6. install water pump with water pump gasket 7. rest of installationin reverse order of removal
Q: I was recently driving and noticed my heat gauge in the red. I have a 1992 Honda Accord 4 door LX. When I opened the hood what appears to be water was all over the place. Is this the water pump or something else? I want to fix it this weekend so I was hoping for a better understanding of what it might be. I am aware of the labor involved with the water pump and removing the timing belts to get to it. Thanks a bunch in advance!
No it doesn't sound like the water pump, There wouldnt be water everywhere if it was the water pump. It sounds like it could be the thermostat not opening up and causing everything to back up.
Q: I have a 2001 2500HD duramax and it is leaking antifreeze under the truck. I leaks a a drop every second what could be causing this
If you can narrow down the location to being from the actual water pump and not a line, It would be the seal in the water pump. The only option is to replace the water pump.

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