• WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump System 1
  • WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump System 2
  • WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump System 3
WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump

WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
200 unit/month

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1. Product Introduction

WQ series submersible sewage pump is mainly used for municipal work, industrial building, hotels, hospitals, civil air defense, mines, etc. It can be widely used in transfer waste water, rainwater and living water etc. which contains solid grains and various long fibers CNBM WQ series sewage submersible pump have many advantages, such as, hi-efficiency, circumvolution proof, blockage free, auto-coupling, hi-reliability and auto-control, etc.

 

2. Technical Performance

Discharge diameter: 50~600 mm

Capacity: 10~8000m³/h

Head: 5~60m

Power: 1.5~315kw

Diameter of pass solids: 20~145mm

 

3. Operation Condition

1). Rated Voltage: 380V(660V), Frequency: 50Hz, 3-phase AC.

2). Temperature of medium under 40ºC.

3). PH value: 4~10.

4). Volume ratio of solid in medium below 2%.

5). Density of medium should be lower than 12000kg/m³.

 

4. Structure Characteristic

WQ series submersible sewage pump is equipped with status indicator and protection device to ensure for pump safe and reliable operating.

1). The unique cable airproof is adopted, avoid leakage of cable.

2).  Heat protector in stator assure of operating life of the motor.

3).  The pump adopts outer recycling cooling design with motor power more than 18.5kw, which can keep the pump operating safely under the lowest water level.

4).  A floating switch is installed at the bottom of motor chamber to protect the mechanical seal in the motor side.

5).  The oil-water probe is installed at the up end of the oil chamber between pump and motor that can protect the mechanical seal in the side. If leakage occurs, the system will signalize and start protection.

6).  Adopt perfect mechanical seal, the sealing material adopt tungsten carbide, silicon carbide and hard metal alloy, which can prevent the water from entering into the motor, and keep the operating reliable and safety.

7).  The auxiliary impeller can balance the pressure outside of the mechanical seal, prevent the water entering into the oil chamber and prolong the life of the motor.

8).  Unique impeller design, wide passage allow large solid and long fiber passing through freely, it features non-clog, convolve-proof and good passing ability.

9).  The changeable wearing ring is installed between the impeller and the volute to keep the optimum operation conditions.

 

5. Impeller Design Characteristics

For the feculence pass freely, it must be widen the flowing passage of impeller, for the big pump, can used for double-vane, or three-vane, for the small pump, it used for single(double) flowing passage, like a bent pipe has same section, it has a good passing characteristic, avoid stop, convolve caused by slowing current possibly. The especially flowing passage of impeller, cooperate with logical volute, made the paper, soft goods, garbage bag and other material in sewage can passing freely and the pump have no vibration in the course of running-in and load through the impeller balance between dynamic and static state.

 

6. FAQ

1) Do you have self-priming pumps?

Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

2) Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

3) If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.



WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump

WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump




Q: 1996 Eagle Vision tsi,has a small coolant leak,was told it iso.k. due to a water pump pressure release valve?has anyone heard of this on an auto?I thought they were only in hot water tanks at home.
No there is not a pressure release valve on a vehicle water pump. There is however a weap hole, which is where it leaks from when your water pump goes bad. The pressure release on the cooling system is through the radiator cap.
Q: I recently changed the lower unit, and am having no water out the top 2 ports just below the powerhead, also the engine is getting heated up. any other pumps other than in the lower unit?any advice is appreciated.
I think that when you put the lower unit back on you may have not gotten the water tube in properly so it is not pumping any water up to the power head.When you replaced your Impeller did you check to be sure there were no pieces of the old Impeller stuck in the housing anywhere?If you have done these things and it still does not pump water then you probably have a stuck thermostat and need to replace it.Hope this helps you and good luck.
Q: I'm planning to install a water pump using electric generator from a very long distance going up from a cliff
Well yes it wiould , powerful pumps need more electric power so check that the generator can supply the power needed by the pump
Q: what size and what type water pump do i need?i am wanting to pump water from a river 345'-0 up hill at 45deg angle. i would like the water pump located at the cabin where the water dispursement would be. is there a pump that would allow me to do this. also, what size piping should i run from the river to the cabin. i can fabricate my own collection box at the river.any suggestions would be appreciated.
Your pump rating will depend on the requirerd flow and so with your pipe size requirement. A goulds submersible pump can deliver heads up to 500 ft.
Q: Assuming that my water pump standard flow is 20m3/h, tolerance value requirements is + 8%, then is not traffic 22m3/h is not qualified?
Tolerance coefficient is due in the manufacturing process, will, so each pump products are possible shapes and sizes do not conform to the pattern of the situation, and ensure the test results in the value (operating point) when compared, should be allowed to have a certain tolerance. It should be noted that these tolerances are only relevant to the actual pump and do not involve test conditions and measurement uncertainties.If the pump at a certain working point (the same lift) standard (Design) flow of 20m3/h, the actual flow of 22m3/h, indicating that the pump in the design process has unreasonable place, resulting in waste of power. Deviations from the manufacturing process usually have no positive deviation.
Q: I was driving when my temp gauge shot up all the way so i pulled off the next exit and my car shut off and started smoking i noticed the water pump belt was in shreds and what seemed to be anti freeze fluid and water was everywhere. I'm curious what could have broke maybe a gasket or the waterpump it's self besides just the belt?
Water pump blew up, lost your radiator fluid and broke a belt. Don't drive it, get it towed to a repair shop.
Q: My radiator light came on this morning i was running late for work so i topped it off with water (about twice a year the light comes on, it has only ever had to be topped off) and after about 20 minutes of driving it started to heat up, so i pulled over shut it offsomebody stopped checked the temp of the water in the reservoir, said it felt to only be about 100 degrees, but topped it off with more water. the gauge dropped right back down to being almost as cold as when you first drive it, but after about 2 miles it was right back up near the red line.I pulled over again there was steam coming off the engine. I stuck my finger in the water it felt warm, but nowhere near hot. I couldn't get it cool enough to finish driving to work. Does this sound like the water pump?If so, how long should this take a decent mechanic to replace?If not, what else could it be?
if it,s circulating then the pump is doing its job. sounds more like the radiator or the thermostat is sticking part of the time. flush out the whole cooling system and change the thermostat. also make sure the fan is working proper.
Q: Even when all water is shut off in the camper, my water pump keeps running. Even when the tank is completely empty. Does anyone know what is causing this?
Camper Water Pump
Q: the car is a 1973 Pontiac Lemans, 350 V8. Water pump needs to be replaced. It's obviously a mechanical pump that's in there now. I was thinking of getting something with more capacity (to start off) as I feel the car could do with a better cooling system (and I have to get a water pump anyways). I was thinking of getting an electrical pump as that would also free up a bit of power from the engine. From what I gather, by doing this it seems I need to switch to an electrical fan also. Is that the case? Any advice/opinions on electrical systems and set ups? Any recommendations?Thanks in advance to anyone who answers. Much appreciated.
stick with the stock set up
Q: We still have water, but it keeps constantly running, and won't stop. The pump itself got warm/hot, and we're afraid that it's going to get ruined or blow up or something. We turned it off for about 30 minutes, then back on to bottle up some water. It's the middle of a snowstorm, and a horrible time for a water pump to stop working, help please!! Any suggestions and fixes, please let me know. Thanks!!! :)
You did not say if you had a submersible well pump or water jet. I am assuming that if you can feel the pump building heat it is of the jet variety. If the pump keeps running it is because the pressure switch is bad or because there is not enough water coming from the well to allow the pump to build shut off pressure. Try manually shutting off the pump for several hours and then switch it back on. If it shuts off on its own then you have a low water supply problem and may need a deeper well. If it does not shut off and you have good water pressure, then shut off the pump and turn off the electrical breaker and remove the pressure switch by disconnecting the wires and screwing the pressure switch off. Inspect the small water line to the switch for blockage from sediment or corrosion. If it is blocked you may get lucky and only have to clear out the line and screw things back together. If you are not lucky, replace the water shut off switch with a new one and you should be good to go. If you still do not have water, the intake screen to the pump could be plugged up and will have to be cleaned.which involves pulling the pipe from the well.

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