• Water Supply System with No Negative Pressure System 1
  • Water Supply System with No Negative Pressure System 2
  • Water Supply System with No Negative Pressure System 3
Water Supply System with No Negative Pressure

Water Supply System with No Negative Pressure

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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Range of use of Water Supply System with No Negative Pressure

1. In order to adapt to the social development with the improvement of the living standard and qualit.

2. Additive pipe pressure (negative pressure) water supply equipment emerge as the times require, the device makes full use of the municipal pipe network pressure superposition, pressurized water supply, .

3. Superposition of pressurized water supply, small occupation of land, energy saving and environmental protection.

4. Tank structure superposed pressure (without negative pressure) water supply equipment long time over the municipal pipe network water supply operation condition of water use in the user, because the regulating tank storage capacity is limited, can not guarantee the normal water use of users, as well as the municipal pipe network short water, be no water available to the problem, in order to make the equipment performance to be more perfect, the company in on the base of original technology developed a new generation of the network pressure superposed water supply equipment of BW (III) type pipe network pressure superposed (non negative) frequency conversion water supply equipment.

 

Working conditions of Water Supply System with No Negative Pressure

1. Environment temperature: 4 Centigrade ~40 Centigrade

2. Relative humidity b):<90% (20 Centigrade), outdoor allow 95%, without dew;

3. Vibration:<0.5g, vibration frequency 10Hz~150Hz, the maximum acceleration should not exceed 5m/s2;

4. Tilt:<5 °

5. Frequency: 50 Hz ± 5%;

6. Power supply voltage: 380V ± 10%;

7. Altitude: Not more than 1000m;

8. Equipment operation site should be no conductive or explosive dust, non corrosive metal or gas insulation failure or steam;

9. Pressure precision:<0.01mpa;< p="">

10. Ressure range: 0~2.0Mpa J);

11. Flow range: 0~600m3

 

 

FAQ

Q: Where do I have to send pumps for service?

A: You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

Q: Are your pumps acid-proofed?

A: To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?

A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

 

 

Water Supply System with No Negative Pressure

Q: I am trying to areting my pond but air pump cost too much. I have an extra water pump available if I make two intake opening, one for water the other for air, would it work? or will it blow up the pump and kill all of my koi because it is made for pump water.
The only difference between a water pump and an air pump is the pressure difference between the two ends and hence across the longitude of the pipe. Air requires less pressure difference, it will pass across anyways. Now, if the pressure difference is too high (i.e. its a water pump perhaps) then the air will go past quite quickly and there is danger of actual overheating, as the kinetic energy of the air molecules will go very high. (Kinetic energy is proportional to temperature). Overheating results in possible hazards for the pond and also fluctuations in the pipe, whereas it COULD possibly (haven't done exact calculations) burst.
Q: I have a 2001 chevy malibu and need to know how to check if the water pump needs replaced. The engine has been running much hotter than normal and is leaking coolant.
Remove the belt and try to turn it by hand. If it makes a growling noise or you can feel roughness in the bearing, then you should replace the pump. Also, look for any leaks anywhere around the water pump that would suggest it needs replacement. If there's no roughness or leaks at the pump, look elsewhere for a leak. Also check your radiator cap to make sure it's holding the proper pressure. Also check your thermostat to make sure it isn't starting to fail. Check to make sure your radiator fans come on too.
Q: I drive a 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander and I am required to change my timing belt as part of preventive maintenance. When I had been to Firestone, they quoted $998 for Timing Belt Water Pump (both parts labor). When I called Midas, they quoted $550 for the same. Does anyone know why there is such a big difference? I have been a regular at Firestone, so Midas is new to me. Are they reliable? Midas is quoting low now, but would there be a surprise charge after I get it done? BTW, how is a water pump related to a timing belt??
Some cars have different designs. The water pump on my 96 Century could have been done in a matter of minutes. Where as some are much deeper in the engine. Usually, to change a water pump like this is pretty much one more step than changing the timing belt. This is why it's usually a good idea to do them both at once.
Q: Water pump "rated lift: 6m" what do you mean?
Popularly speaking, "lift head" is the ability of water pump to lift water. 6m means that the pump can pump water to the height of 6m.
Q: water pump pulley has slight wobble in it. not seeing water yet....is bearing going bad
either the bearings are going out, or the pulley is bent. either way you should go ahead and change the water pump, they are cheap and if you wait it will be a problem later when you get stranded. good luck
Q: I have some black RTV silicone that I got with a gasket for my oil pan. Can I use some on a gasket for a water pump instead of regular sealant or is there a particular type I need? If there is a certain or preferred type please give me a link to it at like autozone or something, thanks!
in the event that they are metallic yet lined in black stuff, then the black stuff is the silicon. i like to place an particularly skinny layer of liquid gasket on my moist seals (different than the headgasket). Use the paintbrush and use the liquid gasket very sparingly. ingredient being, in case you for regardless of reason do not positioned it on with a hundred% of a seal or regardless of, this is one extra layer of protection on your cooling equipment. It additionally glues the gasket to the area, which makes it elementary to place in.
Q: The water burst how to repair?
If it is not too serious, with casting glue on the line, it is best to use serious brazing, don't use the electrode,
Q: My 1998 Dodge Dakota V6 heater only gets warm, I have replaced the thermostat. I have back flushed the heater core. The heater hose coming from near the thermostat gets hot, but the hose coming from the heater core going to the water pump only gets warm. The large hose coming from the thermostat is hot near the engine, but is only warm near the radiator. Is the water pump bad? If I open the radiator cap there is no signs of circulation. How do I check the water pump?Thanks,Gene
about all you can check on a water pump is for free play in a front bearing,if its not circulating real good that's a true sign the blades on the pump are getting worn out,if its not circulating good replace it,you should have back pressure built up in the system when you remove the cap also,this may also be sign there may be a leak in the cooling system,good luck.
Q: Do you need a stop valve for the pump at home?
Must be connected, in the low-end water pipe, the valve is also called the bottom valve is to prevent the intrusion of water, at the same time, but also to ensure the pump again next time when starting the pump and piping in enough water to prevent idling.
Q: 3 months ago I had to replace the water pump on my Jeep (for $600!!!). Now I have leaking again and they are telling me that I need a new radiator. I'm wondering how did they know I needed a water pump last time (it was leaking just like now) and not a new radiator like they're saying this time? I know nothing about anything, and I feel like I'm not informed enough to know what they're really doing. Is this common?
Could be both. The water pump may have been leaking. Did the leak stop after the work was done? If so then it was leaking. The radiator may just have lived out it's life. Corrosion will eventually cause these types of things. I don't know where you're located but $600 for a water pump is a rip off. Maybe you went to the dealer? If it's not under a warranty and you're not buying a new one the jeep does not belong at the dealership. I recently did my water pump on my 94. $100 including new hoses and about 45 minutes. So even parts mark up and $60 labor should have been about $210 or so. For the radiator they are about $150 again depending on where you are. See if you can get a 3 core. More cooling capacity almost the same price. If you're around Maryland e-mail me and I can help you do it yourself.

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