Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series

Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series System 1

Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 500 set/month

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

QDLF Series Vertical Multi-Stage Stainless Steel Pump

General of Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series
QDLF Series Vertical Multi-stage Stainless Steel pump is one high quality，high efficiency and high technology product .The pump is a mixture of cold drawn stamping craft and beading welding craft. combined modern advantage of pump, adopt lots of patents. The advantage is high head, high efficiency , lower noisy and corrosion resisting, stable quality and superior structure. Perfect design and economical operation, which is a ideal for green, environmental and save energy pump.

Technical date of Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series
Capacity: 2-125m3/h
Head: 15-196m
Rotating Direction: anti-clockwise when viewed from the motor

Model Explaination of Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series
50 QDLF 12 -100
50 – Suction and Discharge Diameter (mm)
QDLF – QDLF Serial Multistage Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump
12－Designed Capacity（m3/h）
100－Pump Stage Divided by 10
Rotating Direction: anti-clockwise when viewed from the motor

Applications of Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series
Type QDLF Vertical Multi-stage stainless Steel pumps is a Multifunction product .can be apply for supplying clear water and industrial liquid, different temperature, different capacity and pressure..
Urban water supply and boosting system
Industrial circulating system and boosting system
Boiler Feeding and condensation system
Water Treatment in Environmental Protection
Agriculture irrigation and dehydration
Industrial workshop Cleaning and other washing work

FAQ of Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump of QDLF Series

1. How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2. Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3. Do you have self-priming pumps?

Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

4. Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

Q: I have never had to deal with this and I am probably worrying about nothing but every time I run water, even for a second, the pump starts clicking on and off. Is it supposed to do it with every little thing? Every time the toilet flushes, or the water gets turned on to wash hands it goes off and keeps constantly going off until the water is shut off. Is this what it's supposed to do?: Jadee is correct. Your pump is waterlogged. This is a condition where all the compressable air has mixed with the water in the tank and the tank is full of water clear to the top, not allowing for any compression, which is where you get the pressure to push the water out when you open a fixture. When you open a fixture, regardless of which one, the pump senses a drop in pressure immediately and starts up. As soon as you close the fixture, the pump, which is now pumping water into the tank, senses the pressure coming quickly to where it needs to be and shuts off. There needs to be air in the top of the tank to compress in order for the system to function. If you have a bladder tank, (usually a green or blue tank with an indented seam around the middle of it), then most likely the bladder that's in the middle of the tank to keep the air and water apart so they don't mix, has ruptured and is now allowing the very thing to happen that it was designed to stop. You can drain the system of pressure and most of the water by turning off the pump and repressurizing the tank thru the air nozzle on top or the top side. Open a couple fixtures and allow the water to escape as you put pressure into the tank, until you get air and the water quits. Then turn off the fixtures, turn the pump back on and let it pump up. That will give you an air cushion on top of the tank and will let you use the system till you can decide whether you want to replace the tank or just use it as a convential resevoir system of old, (before bladder tanks). The procedure to restore the system to functionality is the same if it's an older tank without a bladder, only you may have a drain spigot on that type of a tank that will allow for gravity drainage of the water, instead of pressurization. It's not an uncommon occurance for those of us on older wells that don't have bladder tanks. We have to drain and restart ours about once every year or two, depending on how much time the grandkids spend here.

Q: If I were to go to a shop, how much would it cost to replace my water pump? It's a 4.0 6 cyl engine.: $70-$150 +cost of pump. Most shops have certain maintenance hours for certain jobs. Call around for exact pricing. Honestly, if you have a sockets (metric) and wrenches you can do it yourself in about an hour or two, maybe less. You don't have to mechanically inclind to replace the water pump on the 97 Wrangler. If you do it, I do recommend buying a Haynes/Chilton's book if you don't really have a clue. If you need to buy the tools, book, pump (gasket should come with it), water pump RTV, and coolant. That will still be a lot cheaper than paying somebody. Plus, you will get the joy of doing it yourself. Also, you could put the savings into a high-flow pump, vice original equipment.

Q: What are the parameters of the pump price?: The first point: brand, manufacturers are generally different, the price difference is relatively large, the brand effect and quality of this.The second point: motor model and matching pump model, the general power is greater, the higher the price.The third point: special requirements, such as: to achieve a special lift, or special flow, special materials, special maintenance period, the rate of special accidents. The price is higher than the usual model.Basically, these are the pumps that determine the price of the pump. In fact, the same manufacturer, the power difference is not too large, there is no special requirements, the price is basically the same, the reason manufacturers do not the same price, is a marketing strategy, in fact, the cost is the same.

Q: I have an 8 gpm pump at a depth of 170 ft, I am pumping the water 2000 ft in a 1 1/4 inch line. I need to know how many gallons per minute I am getting.: You have already stated the volume as 8 gpm. There is an elevation head of 170 ft, a friction loss of 1 1/2 ft/100 ft at 8 gpm for and additional 30 ft. of head, You did not state what the service pressure was supposed to be at the delivery point. so the total head required of the pump will be 200 ft. or more if a pressure is desired. Add 2 1/3 ft of head for each psig of desired pressure. Because of hydrodynamic design limitations of the pump impellers, you will never find a centrifugal water pump for sale with that low volume combined with that high head. You will need a positive displacement water pump having an approximately 8 -10 gpm capacity at 200 ft head (87 psi) or more, depending on that pressure. You cannot lift water farther up than about 25 feet with any kind of pump because of the thermodynamic properties of water under negative suction pressure. Deep well pumps are lowered down into the well and submerged. The well may have been drilled 170 feet deep, but the water will probably have risen up into the casing. The actual depth of water may be much less than 170 ft. That will need to be measured You will need 3/4 horsepower as is and 1 hp with 20 psig of pressure at the delivery point.

Q: Variable flow variable frequency water pump how to adjust the flow?: Variable frequency pump is mainly depending on the frequency converter to adjust the speed of the pump motor, thereby regulating the flow and lift pump, the following Q1/Q2=n1/n2; H1/H2= (n1/n2) -, the frequency range of the frequency converter in 30HZ~50HZ

Q: What will the water pump reversal situation?: The same will reverse pump water, but the head and the pressure greatly reduced, I just finished debugging a pumping station, Stephen multi-stage pump, installation of equipment: multistage water pump motor power 4 75KW 76% head 100 meters, frequency control, motor nameplate nominal current of 143. According to the direction of the motor steering pump mark OK set the start time of 28 seconds after 5HZ boot head start frequency can reach 50 meters (at that time did not install the pressure gauge cannot observe the water pressure of current) in early 118 about 3-5 minutes after the current is reduced to about 97, there are inspection found no problems, suspected pump problems, suspected foot valve not completely open, the reason cannot exclude the end of valve, almost in despair when the thought is not marked in the direction of the pump, re set to restart the current 129.5A to observe that later installed capacity reached 0.55MPa duct pressure gauge head close to the design requirements, the problem on the manufacturer's mark is reverse.

Q: I have a 2005 Mazda RX8 and I was wondering if upgrading the water pump on my car would void the warranty I have with Mazda. I know such modifications such as air intakes and exhaust systems do not void warranty. The Magnuson Moss Warranty Act says Legally, a vehicle manufacturer cannot void the warranty on a vehicle due to an aftermarket part unless they can prove that the aftermarket part caused or contributed to the failure in the vehicle. So is it safe to say it's alright to install? Thanks!: A water pump... being directly tied to the engine's systems in several ways would give the manufacturer more ammunition to say it caused and defect or failure in the engine. Unlike an air intake that is a static part and is only tied to the vehicle's aspiration. It would be a gamble on your part to install the upgrade.... But perhaps an acceptable risk? Look into why you feel you need the upgraded water pump and determine if that need is worth the risk of voiding ther manufacturer's warranty.

Q: i have a water leak near the water pump in my 1990 cadillac deville i replaced the water pump but it was remanufactured and a pipe on the back of the water pump can it be a heater core or should i buy a brand new one p.s. water leaks after it passes the radiator: The 1990 cadillac water pumps were big old things. They took up most of the front of the engine and GM left very little room to get to the bolts. One problem you could be having is bolt placement. Not only were there about 15 bolts holding the pump on, but they were also all different lengths. If you do not put them back in the right order you can end up cracking the new water pump housing, or leaving a gap between the pump and the bolt head where water can leak out of. Check that.

Q: when i drove my truck after about 15 minutes i was parked and let my truck idle afetr about a minute of idling my truck stalled and when i turned it back of it was squeeking and made some noises for about ten seconds and then stopped. I noticed that the pully on my fan coming from the water pump was wobbling. my tempuratue was still normal what could cause this i am suspecting taht the bearings in my water pump went?: After the pully starts to wobble the next thing is the fan comes off and tears up the radiator. If you are going to do it yourself you can rent the tool to remove the fan at Auto Zone or Advance and remember it has left hand threads. Its best to remove the fan before the belt, it will hold the pulley while you smack the wrench with a hammer to break the fan loose. You don't have to but I always recommend new by pass, tiop and bottom radiator hose ans a new thermostat. You'll find that if you unbolt and lay aside the a/c compressor and alternator and breather it is not a hard job.

Q: 3 months ago I had to replace the water pump on my Jeep (for $600!!!). Now I have leaking again and they are telling me that I need a new radiator. I'm wondering how did they know I needed a water pump last time (it was leaking just like now) and not a new radiator like they're saying this time? I know nothing about anything, and I feel like I'm not informed enough to know what they're really doing. Is this common?: Could be both. The water pump may have been leaking. Did the leak stop after the work was done? If so then it was leaking. The radiator may just have lived out it's life. Corrosion will eventually cause these types of things. I don't know where you're located but $600 for a water pump is a rip off. Maybe you went to the dealer? If it's not under a warranty and you're not buying a new one the jeep does not belong at the dealership. I recently did my water pump on my 94. $100 including new hoses and about 45 minutes. So even parts mark up and $60 labor should have been about $210 or so. For the radiator they are about $150 again depending on where you are. See if you can get a 3 core. More cooling capacity almost the same price. If you're around Maryland e-mail me and I can help you do it yourself.

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit