• Supply new product industrial high quality high flow high pressure water pump System 1
Supply new product industrial high quality high flow high pressure water pump

Supply new product industrial high quality high flow high pressure water pump

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
500 set/month

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  • Quick Details


    • Model Number: YQ NW high flow high pressure water pump

    • Theory: Centrifugal Pump

    • Structure: Single-stage Pump

    • Usage: Water

    • Power: Electric

    • Standard or Nonstandard: Standard

    • Fuel: Diesel

    • Pressure: Low Pressure

    • Application: Sewage

    • Certification: ISO

    • Color: any

    • MOQ: 1set

    • OEM: OK

    • Applications: power plant

    • Flow: 36-182 m3/h

    • Head: 130-230 m

    • Power: 30 to 160 kw

    • Caliber: 80-150 mm

    • Speed: 2950 r/min

    Packaging & Delivery

    Packaging Details:high flow high pressure water pump packing: Standards exporting wooden case
    Delivery Detail:Within 7-10days for high flow high pressure water pump

    Specifications

    high quality high flow high pressure water pump 
    Flow: 36-182 m3 / h 
    Head: 130-230 m 
    Power: 30 to 160 kw 
    Caliber: 80-150 m 

     

    Product Description

                      Supply new product industrial high quality high flow high pressure water pump   

     NW model with thin pumps, used for low 125000 kw-300000 kw power plant coal conveying low-pressure heater drain, the temperature of the medium in addition to 150-nw-90 x 2 more than 130 °C, the rest of the model are more than 120 °C for models. The series pump cavitation performance is good, suitable for the low NPSH working conditions of work.

Q: the pump is pumping hot wtaer from the hot water tank around the domestic hot water system, i.e to taps and shower.
These pumps can have their own bearing or they may rely on the bearings in the motor. Most of these are anti-friction bearings that have a limited life. Also if the pump runs dry it can over heat and seize.
Q: We usually wait 4 - 5 minutes for hot water in our master bath. I've been looking into ricirculation pump systems. This would have to be a retro-fit system since some of the lines run through concrete slab making adding a return loop on the line non-feasible. I have found some people comment on simply using a by-pass valve system without a pump (ie. Hot Water Lobster). We do have hard water which I've also read that can present a problem with pumps dieing quite quickly. While I'd like it, I don't need 1 second hot water, but I can't stand wasting gallons waiting for 4-5 minutes. A reasonable 15-30 second wait would be a huge improvement. Has anyone had reasonable success with the bypass valve without the pump or should I plan on getting the pump too? Thanks in advance!
Get the pump, the valve is useless without it. Why anybody would advise you to put a tankless heater under the sink to remedy one faucet when the recirc system will do it for all your fixtures is beyond me.You will not need a return line with the rscirc system. They work good!
Q: i took off the lower unit to fix the gears. im not sure ill be able to put it back on with out knowing how things work in there.so how exactly does the water get pumped. and what does it have to do with the gears, because even though the prop wasn't turning, the water was still pumping.thanks.
did you put the dot of adhesive on the Keyway to hold it from slipping out of place ? Are the pump plates worn around the impeller ? If you just replaced the Impeller and NOT the whole housing, and plates, that is NO GOOD, you must replace the whole unit.
Q: Home water well is artesian, to holding tank. I am needing to replace my pump yearly. Inside of the pump is rusted, this causing a real loud whining sound before failure. Pump motor isn't failing, the inside of the pump ends up freezing loosing the ability to spin.Any suggestions as to why?
Hi I was (now retired) in the pumping industry pumps for the kind of use you appear to be using them for were normally stainess steel or stainless steel and plastic. I would suggest you look at the Xylem ( a major supplier and installer of pumps) site. Regards John
Q: TDH what units are present in the pump parameters?
Answer: TDH stands for single pole double suction horizontal chemical process pump, suitable for conveying clean or containing micro solid particles of ultra low temperature or high temperature liquid medium, is also particularly suitable for conveying strong corrosive medium. All facilities for horizontal installation are available.Mainly used:Petroleum smelting plant, petroleum conveying equipment and pump used in petroleum deep processing devicePump for coal chemical processPumps for water and desalination systemsPumps for fuel coal fired power generation equipmentSewage treatment and environmental protection pumpStructure characteristics:Pump in the horizontal opening, suction and discharge pipeline is located in the lower half of the pump body. The disassembly and replacement of the wearing parts and the replacement of the rotor parts can be performed without disassembly of the pipe.Double suction impeller, high efficiency, good cavitation performance, axial force is basically balanced.Rigid axle shaft and bearing, double end support, small deflection, small vibration, low noise, oil lubrication of rolling bearings with oil ring, constant level oiler automatic control level, and can get automatic compensation, radial thrust ball bearings back-to-back bear residual axial force.The sealing ring of the shell is provided with a stop and a step, and is arranged on the pump body and the pump cover, so that the assembly and disassembly are convenient.
Q: i mean, the water that runs through the ground from rain and ends up in the pit in the basement,is it clean to drink in an emergency? live close to a public road where they salt for snow and ice, so do you suppose that is in the water?
In okorder /
Q: I just had my water pump replaced and a coolant flush. 35 miles later, my MAL light came on and my mechanic said my thermostat needs replacement. Should this have been done with the water pump work, or could the work have caused the thermostat problem?
My philosophy on thermostats is if I don't have a reason to suspect trouble with it I don't change it. Thermostats don't have any particular life expectancy - the one in my daughter's Accord is 18 years old and works better than new aftermarket thermostats I have tried. I haven't replaced a thermostat in about 15 years. They are often blamed but (until recently, with the introduction of fail open thermostats) rarely at fault. EDIT - I also agree with BR549, although for a different reason. Professionals have to work somewhat differently than DIYers because of where the costs fall. I would rebuild a starter and it would be a lot better than a store-bought rebuilt, but a pro would be taking on unnecessary risks if he didn't replace the starter. His perspective splits the question in two: should the thermostat be replaced during coolant service, and should a professional mechanic replace the thermostat during coolant service? I answer no to the first and yes to the second. The replacement may actually be a step down from the one we know works, but it is also the safer way for a pro to go.
Q: do you trust the bran?
Point blank, ask the folks at Auto Zone where this water-pump was produced. If it was re-manufactured off-shore leave it on their shelves. I trust you knew these Duralast water-pumps are re-manufactured. All AC-Delco starters, alternators and water-pumps are re-manufactured in the USA. Every part inside the reused housings are factory brand new with parts made here in the US.
Q: I'm not talking about for a car. Just the standard water pump for you house. Ours won't click on when it's supposed to. First we had to hit the tank itself, and now we have to tap the box on top (I'm assuming some sort of fuse box as there are wires coming out of it). It's getting ridiculous and I'm just ready to buy a new one, but I'm not sure where all you can buy one.
It's time for a new pump, this is not an appliance that you want to worry about or cut corners with. I would recommend a plumbing supply house that has a little better quality pump. Zoeller makes a very reliable submersible, you won't have to worry for another 15 years.
Q: just pulled my well pipe up and installed a new foot valve will i have to fill the pipes back up with water before i can get it to pump
How To Prime A Pump: (Need: Gallon jug of drinking water, a roll of teflon tape, and an adjustable wrench or a pipe wrench.) A. Unplug pump (or cut OFF breaker box at pump, if one). B. Unscrew (counter-clockwise) the largest (3/4) plug on top of pump head. C. Wrap 2-3 flat turns (clockwise only) of teflon tape on threads of plug. D. Pour water into plug hole until full, and quickly start threads of plug by hand. E. Plug in or turn on pump, and finger-tighten plug (air and water will bubble out around threads as you do so) until pump picks up prime. Then wrench-tighten plug when it does. Repeat all steps, if necessary, until you have full water pressure and pump cuts off on its own. Good Luck!

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