• Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump System 3
Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump

Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
200 set/month

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Advantage of Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump          
Easy mantainance
Higher efficiency&saving energy
Low noise
Non-leakage
Stabel runing and longer operation life
Exellent Performance
Compact Structure
Both horizontal and vertical installation
Easy installation the pipeline,suction and discharge in one line


Applications of Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump
Type SBS Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump is wide apply in water works, irrigation, drainage pump station, power plant, municipal water supply system, firefighting, ship build. also can be apply in oil process industry, drainage in civil building, HVAC, metallurgy, chemical ,pharmacy,power plantetc for supply water or liquid property similar to water both in physics and chemical.


General description of Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump
State Patents (Patent Number: ZL01 2 39077.1) the advantage of vertical& horizontal installation construction to fill domestic blank. To match different installation requirement. strengthen casing design, high efficiency and save energy, compact design to ensure stable and reliable operation.

Model Explanation of Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump
SBS 125 500F/412
SBS SBS Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump
125 - Discharge Diameter (mm)
500 Impeller Nominal Diameter (mm)
F - Impeller hydraulic Code
412- Impeller Diameter Code
                                                                                                                                                           

Technical data of Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump
Diameter of Discharge Flange: DN80 upto DN900
Capacity:Q:83 - 11600m3/h
Head:H:8 - 180m
Max Working Pressure:cast iron 1.6MPa, Ductile Iron and Cast Steel 2.5MPa.
Max Operating Temperature: 120 degree
Rotation Direction : from the driven end, the pump rotating direction is CW, also CCW rotation direction is available if needed.

 

FAQ of Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump

1. Are your pumps protected against dry running?

No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

2. How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

3. Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

 

Q:I've been noticing a difference in the temperature gage lately. The quot;change oillight has also been coming on and I just had an oil change not even a month ago, and the car isn't even due back for at least another month. I noticed there's a green/blue liquid in my driveway today, too. I looked under the car and something is leaking or dripping around the passengers side front wheel. More so the passenger-middle side. I've been told it could be the water pump.
you could call your interior reach Dealership and that they supply you the hard artwork for this fix. maximum all shops use the Chilton hard artwork classes for hard artwork time on maintenance. make certain you shop around for sturdy section fees. i advise my consumers to discover this suggestion hard artwork/areas cost. then they are able to call around and shop for the suited cost, if the hard artwork cost is physically powerful however the section is outrageous, then grant the section (do no longer tell the shop which you would be offering the section or they could attempt to advance the hard artwork cost). sturdy success
Q:My water pump keeps getting quite hot after each use. Everything seems to be working properly, except I think that the heat may cause it to burn out and that would cause a huge problem. My pump pulls water from a ground level water tank and pushes water up three flats to the part of my house used for living quarters. The pressure setting is set to cut out at 40psi and cut in at 25psi. What can I do myself before calling in expensive experts?
You have an air volume problem and the tank is water logged. When this happens the pump motor short cycles and creates more heat than it can dissipate. A device inside the motor windings cuts the power until it cools again. You can cut the power off,drain the tank, then start all over, it will give you1/3 air pressure volume over 2/3 water. They have an air volume control that may not be operating properly. I use an air compressor on my pump and pump air into the tank about once every two months. It all depends on how much the pump runs.
Q:I have a 1996 Volvo 960, wagon. I need to replace the steering and water pump on my wagon, and I am wondering if any how can give me instructions on how to do so...
hey, im a 960 dude, b4 U touch that water pump belt let me tell U U CANT change that ya`self it is very complicated and very precise on that dohc the marks-most likely are worn and they have to be PERFECTLY lined up AND there is a special tool needed to hold the cams in place as the belt is inserted that mostly only volvo specialist have,,,if this procedure is not done right it will blow the engine,,, and the other advice is good too,,,
Q:I live in a condo building -- 3 floors, 7 units. In our storage units (right below my unit) is a water pump that was hooked up with the intent of helping the water flow to the 3rd floor. Everytime the pump goes off, it rattles, then makes a loud noise when it kicks off. The developers created a drywall box that houses the pump, which is surrounded by isolation, but it doesn't seem like it helps the noise. The pump also rattles the pipes that connect directly to the pump.My question is -- is this rattling normal for a standard water pump? If so, is there anything I can do to help cut down on the noise? If this is rattling is not normal of the standard water pump, what would it cost to replace it with something decent?
I've been around booster pumps that were extremely quiet -without any soundproofing at all.And the pipes don't rattle. You should find a plumber who knows what the hell he's doing and get that crap replaced.
Q:I just posted another question a few minutes ago, but not really much help with the one answer I got. I'm now sure that what part I'm feeling on the back of the engine block is the water pump on my 97 Grand Am 2.4L twin cam POS car. I somehow got my hand back there enough to take pictures to see what I'm feeling. Noticed in one of them that there is a bolt missing! This area was very wet with coolant. Would this bolt missing cause the pump/cover to leak? Makes sense to me. If all the bolts aren't there, then there wouldn't be proper seal, right? Had this engine put in a few months ago. The guy who did it seemed to miss a lot of things.
/i thini it might... I would just get a bolt from a local carquest, autozone, aidauto where ever cant be anymore than 5 bucks... best best better than overheating your engine and getting stuck for a couple of bucks
Q:removed my water pump to replace it. i have the fan and clutch assembly still attached...i have no idea how to remove these...the fan clutch has bolts that hold the fan to it...and i did remove those but im just not sure how to separate this assembly...my water pump pulley has 4 holes...and no bolts so i presume it's pressed on...and there looks to be a very large nut between the pulley and the fan/clutch assembly...any help would be appreciated on this...i'd much rather go to the parts store w/ the old pump instead of guessing.....thnx in advance...
I,m with JOHN R in this one, confirm your radiator fan seize is working and not purely unfastened wheeling all of the time and additionally confirm that there is no air trapped interior the cooling gadget.With engine off crack a heater hose unfastened close to the heater center and pour anti freeze in until it starts to return out the disconnected hose. And the cooling fan could become noticeably louder whilst the engine is heat and in case you shut the engine off it is going to experience stiffer to coach than it does cool. sturdy success.
Q:how can i choose a water pump that is truely on demand as in shuts off when not needed automaticly i purchaced one that claimed it was a quot;demandpump is mine defective or not a true on demand pump?
RV section is probably under cars and transportation, others. On demand pumps are quite common and used in many RV's.
Q:It's been slowly leaking for awhile now, but today it dumped brown water out like a bucket, when I shut it off facing up hill.
Your best bet is to purchase a manual on OKorder and repair it yourself. Haynes repair manuals detail the correct procedures step by step and if you are handy with tools and not afraid to get your hands dirty, you can save a ton of cash by repairing things like this yourself. With the help of the manual you can probably do the job just as well as the local repair garage.
Q:I live in a house that uses a pump to push water from a tank to the bathroom and kitchen. It has a sensor that detects if water is flowing and pushes it much harder. Recently, it has been pushing the water for a second or less then it completely stops for a while. It's like a pulse of water then nothing. Can anyone give me feedback on what is wrong here? Thank you.
from okorder :Self-priming pump working principle is: the pump before you start in the pump shell filled with water (or) from the water in the pump housing.Start after high-speed rotating impeller flow to the vortex in the impeller, shell, then the entry form the vacuum, the inlet non-return door open, within the air into the pump suction tube and the impeller, to arrive at the outer edge.Self-priming pump is a self-priming centrifugal pump, it has compact structure, convenient operation, stable operation, easy maintenance, high efficiency, long service life, and have strong self-priming capacity, etc.Line does not need to install the bottom valve, only to ensure storage in pump body before work are quantitative liquid.Pump after the normal starting, impeller liquid of suction chamber and inlet line of air suction, and can completely mixed within the impeller, the function of centrifugal force, and liquid with gas to the vortex flow volume outside edge, the impeller has a certain thickness is formed on the outer edge of the white foam belt and high-speed rotating liquid ring.Gas-liquid mixture into the gas-liquid separation chamber through diffusion tube.At this time, due to the flow rate suddenly drops, lighter gas is separated from the mixture of liquid and gas through the pump body spit continues to rise.After degassing of liquid to liquid storage chamber, and the reflux hole again into the impeller, and impeller with inhalation of gases from the inlet line again mix, flow under the action of the high-speed rotating impeller and the impeller outer edge....As the process cycle, decreasing the air in the suction line, until all gas absorption, complete the self-priming process, pump put into normal operation. What you said phenomenon should be pipeline leak, which leads to the self-priming pump process is repeated.
Q:The water pump on my 1997 corolla has been leaking, I want to replace it by myself. I did some research online, and get the diagram of the engine structure. It seems to me it is not very hard to do, but who knows, it might end up being a very tricky job. Did anyone replace the water pump on 97 corolla before? How difficult was it? Two things I actually worry: 1. It might be hard to unbolt the water pump pulley, because there is little room insert a wrench. 2. Also, because of the lack of room, it would be also hard to unbolt the timing belt cover (the 2nd/middle cover). A shop gave the quote of $440 to replace the water pump, and I think I should be able to do it myself.
Think about the engine timing, its the most important. If you put the timing belt back in at wrong timing it'll be a big problem.

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