• Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump System 3
Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump

Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
200 set/month

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Advantage of Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump          
Easy mantainance
Higher efficiency&saving energy
Low noise
Non-leakage
Stabel runing and longer operation life
Exellent Performance
Compact Structure
Both horizontal and vertical installation
Easy installation the pipeline,suction and discharge in one line


Applications of Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump
Type SBS Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump is wide apply in water works, irrigation, drainage pump station, power plant, municipal water supply system, firefighting, ship build. also can be apply in oil process industry, drainage in civil building, HVAC, metallurgy, chemical ,pharmacy,power plantetc for supply water or liquid property similar to water both in physics and chemical.


General description of Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump
State Patents (Patent Number: ZL01 2 39077.1) the advantage of vertical& horizontal installation construction to fill domestic blank. To match different installation requirement. strengthen casing design, high efficiency and save energy, compact design to ensure stable and reliable operation.

Model Explanation of Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump
SBS 125 500F/412
SBS SBS Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump
125 - Discharge Diameter (mm)
500 Impeller Nominal Diameter (mm)
F - Impeller hydraulic Code
412- Impeller Diameter Code
                                                                                                                                                           

Technical data of Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump
Diameter of Discharge Flange: DN80 upto DN900
Capacity:Q:83 - 11600m3/h
Head:H:8 - 180m
Max Working Pressure:cast iron 1.6MPa, Ductile Iron and Cast Steel 2.5MPa.
Max Operating Temperature: 120 degree
Rotation Direction : from the driven end, the pump rotating direction is CW, also CCW rotation direction is available if needed.

 

FAQ of Stainless Steel Double Suction Centrifugal Pump

1. Are your pumps protected against dry running?

No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

2. How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

3. Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

 

Q: can anyone show me the steps on how to remove the water pump on a 1995 dodge intrepid 3.5l engine?
Dodge Intrepid 1995
Q: I have a pontiac grand am 1996 v6 with a 3.1L 3100 SFI engine. I have a coolant leak and I think it's coming from the water pump. When the car is cool and then turned on, about 4 to 9 minutes into warming up, coolant is hitting a belt and spraying out of the car's front end. When this is happening I see that there is coolant dripping off of the waterpump housing. The coolant started to spray everywhere about 15 seconds before the radiator fan kicked in. Why would this happen when first warming up only? Can a defective thermostat cause this to happen?
Mating surfaces of water pump slightly expand after warm up closing tighter on gasket in between, so the leak will not be as much. If you leave it, eventually it may get larger and will leak all the time. Change the water pump and/or it's gasket.
Q: Do it yourself steps
The okorder You don't want to leave anything out and certainly don't want to trust a stranger on Yahoo Answers! Good luck!
Q: Power went out of my house and we just had it restored, though now the water is no longer running. We called the people who installed our pump and they told us they would need to dig up the well which is going to cost $1500. However i remember a time before where this happened and all we needed to was reset the switch. Do you think these ppl are trying to get me for my money? Does anyone know if there is a less expensive way?
you do not usually have to dig up a well there could be several causes Some pressure switches are low pressure cutoff type if you lost pressure the switch needs to be reset the little silver handle on the side of the pressure switch needs to be lifted until pressure builds up Lightening might have hit the casing and burned a wire or even fried the pump although with breakers and safety switches that is unlikely. If your pump has a control box either in the pump house or the basement remove the screw and take the cover off if you smell or see something burnt go to lowes and buy a new box $45 max. If the wire is burned it is most likely right at the well cap itself turn the breaker off and remove the cap carefully pull the slack wire up and check a plumber should fix for no more than $100. If the pump is gone it will require the pump to be pulled if it is a submersible this may cost you up to$1000 . If you have an above ground jet pump that lost the prime just remove the fill cap and fill with water to restart the prime Sorry for the long answer just wanted to touch all bases
Q: Dear friends, please let me know in most of the power plants recirculation line and balance leak off lines are provided for boiler feed water pumps and those lines are connected to Deaerator. Why?
The feed pumps for most power plants are multistage centrifugal pumps. They have a minimum flow requirement or the balancing forces of the various impellers are lost and the pump is damaged. A recirculation line permits a minimum flow to be maintained at all times. It goes back to the deaerator so the boiler feedwater is not lost. Note: many of these pumps have the recycle automated so it is only in operation at very low flow rates. The leak off from the balancing line is recycled for the same reason.
Q: A circular swimming pool has a diameter of 12 meters. The sides are 3 meters high and the depth of the water is 2.5 meters. How much work is required to pump all of the water over the side?
the quantity of the water interior the trough is, V(h) the place h is the peak of the water interior the trough. The one million/2 perspective on the backside of the trough is B tan B = h /(w/2) the place w is the area around the trough tan B = 4 /(12/2) = 4/6 = 2/3 2/3 = h /(w/2) (w/2) 2/3 = h w = 3 h the component to the bypass-component to the trough A, is then A = h w /2 = h(3h)/2 = 3/2 h^2 the quantity is then V(h) = A * L = (3/2 h^2) 12 = 18 h^2 dV/dt = 36 h dh/dt dh/dt = dV/dt /(36 h) dV/dt = 9 ft^3/min dh/dt = 9 /(36 * 12) = one million/forty 8 ft /min
Q: i have a 1991 Jeep Cherokee, started overheating last week, i flushed out the radiator with water, i replaced the thermostat, overheated again, i felt the top radiator hose it was cold. so i replaced the water pump. still overheated. every time i drain the system when i refill it i had red to fill the radiator and reservoir, leave the radiator cap off, then start the engine and turn the heat on max, the radiator burps the air bubble out, then the coolant level in the radiator starts going up and down, my thermostat is rated at 195, when the guage hits 210 hot coolant sprays out of the radiator, but the top radiator hose is cold, what am i doing wrong? is there air still trapped in that top radiator hose?
id say its the radiator after all what ya replaced. have it checked out at a shop. before ya do though ya might do a complete flush of the motor and the cooling system. might be a blockage in a water jacket in the motor. ya can buy the flush kit at any parts store, its simply a T that ya splice into on of the heater core hoses,hook up a water hose,turn heater on, and wait with the engine running. if theres any blockage it will spit and sputter till its pushed out with the water pressure. let it idle till clear water comes out then drain and add coolant. try this first with water only and if it doesnt solve your problem id say ya need a radiator.
Q: Could it make coolant quot;Boilquot;? Ive heard myc ar's behavior is Normal, and most likely just heavy condenstaion as it DOES go away, also the behavior of the coolant and the tank.. but i DO know the Water Pump is quot;Weeping,or quot;Seeping,so i wonder what interaction that would have ont he Cooling side of the motor; what effects can it produce? What would i notice?My 1991 Calais 2.5L quot;Iron Duke,
Steam coming from your headlight on a rainy night is NORMAL, since the halogen bulb makes a lot of heat. This turns the water into water vapor, (steam) as it attempts to dry out. If you don't physically hear the bearings in your water pump, or watch colored fluid drip out from under your engine, then your water pump is JUST FINE!!! STOP WORRYING! I answered one of your questions the other day. If you take my advice, your engine will run at it's best. For extra protection, drain and flush your cooling system out, and use Mercedes coolant. Dex-cool has been proved to be a potentially bad coolant. READ the dexcool litigation websites. Mercedes coolant, which is YELLOW in color, will last for 150,000 miles, and is a time tested WINNER!!! Use ONLY top tier fuels (read about this on web) and use ONLY synthetic oil, like Mobil One. CLEAN your idle air control valve and throttle plate. AND STOP WORRYING!
Q: My mechanic said I have a very small coolant leak and that in the future I might need to replace it.He said I should keep an eye on my coolant level.Anyone like to comment on how how a quot;small leakmight develop into a quot;major leakthat needs to be urgently addressed?He also said that to replace my water pump, he would charge $400. Is this expensive?(I have a 1996 VW Jetta)
The water pump leaks to warn you that it is about to go bad, meaning that you will overheat. Keeping an eye on the coolant is a good temporary course of action but this needs to be fixed before you ruin the engine. I believe your water pump is driven by the timing belt and that is a complex job. $400 is about right, and have him change the timing belt and thermostat also.
Q: Why should the water pump be opened in time after the pump is started?
The circulating water pump outlet valve is closed when starting, normal after the water outlet valve is opened, I found that, with the valve opening, the current is slowly sinking, you tell me why?, and the other is the opposite of the pump (with the valve opening current increases).

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