• SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump System 1
  • SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump System 2
  • SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump System 3
SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
100 unit/month

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SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

 

Basic Info. of SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

Model NO.:100RV-SP

Pump Casing Combined:Verticaljoint Surface Pump

Impeller:Closed

Working Pressure:Low Pressure Pump

Position of Pump Shaft:Vertical Pump

Usage:Pump

Impeller Number:Single-Stage Pump

Influent Type of Impeller:Single Suction Pump

Mounting Height:Since Irrigation Centrifugal Pumps

Outlet Diameter:40-200mm

Capacity:12.6-597m3/H

Head:5-34m

Speed:400-2200r/Min

Matched Power:1.1-160kw

Temperature:Less Than 80ºC

Export Markets:Global

 

Product Description of SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

SP pumps are vertical, centrifugal slurry pumps submerged in sump to work. They are designed for transfer abrasive, large particle and high density slurries. These pumps have no need of any shaft seal and sealing water. They can also be operated normally for insufficient suction duties. Wear-resistant materials are applied for the wet part. Two driving forms include BD(Belt Pulley Drive) and DC(Direct Connection Drive).

 

Performance Range of SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

Outlet diameter: DN=40-200mm(1.5"-8")
Capacity: Q=12.6-597m3/h
Head: H=5-34m
Speed: N=400-2200r/min
Matched power: P=1.1-160kW
Working Temperature: Less than 80º C


Model Description of SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

40PV-SP:
40---Outlet diameter(mm)
PV---Bracket mode
SP--Sump pump
4. APPLICATIONS;
A. Sump drainage
B. Floor drainage
C. Mill sumps
D. Carbon transfer
E. Magnetite mixing


Feature of SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

A. Vertical construction, less Installation Space.
B. Adjustable side plate and impeller.
C. Equiped with replaceable shaft protection sleeve.
D. Smooth and stable operation
E. Special materials or casting for specific liquid

 

FAQ

Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?

A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

 

 

SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

Q: on my 92' toyota celica, i got the heater core by pass fixed and also a new radiator because both were leaking, and now my mechanic tells me i also need a new water pump , which can be really expensive! apparently it is leaking water too, so i was thinkng just filling up my car with water before driving until i can afford to get it fixed.. can this shortcut be done to prevent my water pump causing me further problems?
Ohhh I used to do that. My radiator hose had a hole in it and it would leak. I'd refill my anti freeze once a week. One day 10 minutes before I got out of work I started my car to warm it up. When I get out of work I come to see that anti freeze is all over the ground and my engines smoking big time. I refilled it and drove a quarter mile to the mechanic and it all spilled out on my way their too lol. My hose ruptured is what happened(hole got bigger). I say don't press your luck and go replace it.
Q: how do i take water pump off took all hoses and bolts i think off dont know whats holdin it on how many bolt hold it on i know the seal can hold it on ther but it wont budge even when i use block of wood and tap with hammer
Lt1 Water Pump
Q: My family has a vacation home on the bay side of a small island off the coast of Texas. The house has a water well and uses an electric pump housed in a pump house underneath the structure, which is up on stilts. The house is infrequently used and with the seaside conditions the pump has corroded and will not start automatically. What do I need to do to clean it up so it will function? I do not believe that the motor is damaged.
the problem with the pump not running will be the motor only.....most likely the motor rotor has rusted to the winding core of the motor ....soak it down with wd40 on the inside ...should be vent holes to spray wd40 in...try to find some way to turn rotor ....on some pumps there is a screwdriver slot on the end of the motor...if it still wont run take it to shop
Q: This only happens while I am running water. I can hear the pressure switch clicking on and off the whole time I am doing dishes, laundry, ... Since it is only when the water is running I believe that means it is not a leak. I changed the check valve and that did not fix the problem. I checked the pressure in the tank and it seemed to be around the 20/40 mark. Any other ideas anyone?Thanks.
It sounds like the bladder in your pressure tank has ruptured.
Q: where would I be able to find information on how to change out a water pump for that specific type of vehicle and year, as well I had got a stain on the body from road work it seems to be cement how could I take spots out without damaging the body's paint? What are my options thanks...
Go to your local auto parts store and pick up a Haynes Repair Manual. Very detailed, and only about $20.
Q: There is a loud squeecking noise coming from the water pump and the serpentime belt isnt loose!I dont know how long it would take a mechanic to do the job?
Spray some water on the belt while it's schreeching to rule the belt out. They often make noise, even when tight.
Q: 1998 Toyota Camry 4-cyl.Engine starts and runs, but makes a horrible, random clunking sound that seems to come from the water pump area. Coolant was seeping from front cover, appeared to be from water pump area again. engine idles, but wont rev up at all.My guess is that a bearing let loose or a vane broke off the water pump and is bouncing around inside, triggering the knock sensor which pulls out all of the timing, not letting it rev. Sound right?If that is the problem, what all is involved in replacing the water pump? Its my roommate's car, but I told him I would fix it if possible to save some money. I'm a fairly competent mechanic, but I don't have the best setup here while I'm away at school, so any info on how involved this will be, how many hours of labor is listed for that, or anything to watch for from someone who has had a similar problem before would be greatly appreciated.
water pump is driven by timing belt. need to replace together. water pump may have threw belt off, explaining no acceleration. weekend job, use new pump, vs. reman. get set with belt and new tensioner.
Q: i have a significant stream of water running out of the coolant return side of the engine under the coolant pipe on a 1997 caravan i will lose a gallon and then it stops until the engine heats up and of course more comes out with expansion
1st off, without proper diagnostics you cannot get a proper repair...with that being said... 2nd, I would definately say you have a water pump problem, but all is not lost. Keep 2-3 gallons of water in the back and you'll be fine, 3rd, take it to a repair shop that has the experience necessary to repair your problem. the 3.0 v6's are not easy to work on. To replace the water pump you almost need to take the engine out( at least that would be easier) along with the r/f tire. Best way is to put the vehicle on a lift. My advice...take to a shop. Good luck and hope this helps
Q: I'm not talking about for a car. Just the standard water pump for you house. Ours won't click on when it's supposed to. First we had to hit the tank itself, and now we have to tap the box on top (I'm assuming some sort of fuse box as there are wires coming out of it). It's getting ridiculous and I'm just ready to buy a new one, but I'm not sure where all you can buy one.
Lowe's Home Depot etc. The question is why in the world are you messing with a connection junction box (ie; electricity) and water when there are professionals out there to do the troubleshooting for you.... heck maybe even save you money in the long run. It may not be the pump, but a short in the electrical.
Q: Hi, my mechanic said that I need a new water pump. I have a 1994 Dodge Caravan SE. What is involved with the whole changing of a water pump? He said it would cost about $400 to $500 for the whole job. Is that correct? Were is a good place to go get one? I live in Staten Island New York. Is sears a good place for that job? What is installed when they do this job? Belts or what??? I thank you for your time and any help is greatly appreciated. I will be taking my car in this week and will leave a best answer based on the correct information. Thanks again :-)
It all depends on what size engine you have, the 3.0 is the worst and then the other two aren't as bad and 4 or 5 hundred seems like allot but these days when the garages are charging 100 an hour that probably isn't to bad specially in New York, the best place is probably the dealer.

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