• SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump System 1
  • SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump System 2
  • SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump System 3
SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
100 unit/month

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SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

 

Basic Info. of SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

Model NO.:100RV-SP

Pump Casing Combined:Verticaljoint Surface Pump

Impeller:Closed

Working Pressure:Low Pressure Pump

Position of Pump Shaft:Vertical Pump

Usage:Pump

Impeller Number:Single-Stage Pump

Influent Type of Impeller:Single Suction Pump

Mounting Height:Since Irrigation Centrifugal Pumps

Outlet Diameter:40-200mm

Capacity:12.6-597m3/H

Head:5-34m

Speed:400-2200r/Min

Matched Power:1.1-160kw

Temperature:Less Than 80ºC

Export Markets:Global

 

Product Description of SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

SP pumps are vertical, centrifugal slurry pumps submerged in sump to work. They are designed for transfer abrasive, large particle and high density slurries. These pumps have no need of any shaft seal and sealing water. They can also be operated normally for insufficient suction duties. Wear-resistant materials are applied for the wet part. Two driving forms include BD(Belt Pulley Drive) and DC(Direct Connection Drive).

 

Performance Range of SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

Outlet diameter: DN=40-200mm(1.5"-8")
Capacity: Q=12.6-597m3/h
Head: H=5-34m
Speed: N=400-2200r/min
Matched power: P=1.1-160kW
Working Temperature: Less than 80º C


Model Description of SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

40PV-SP:
40---Outlet diameter(mm)
PV---Bracket mode
SP--Sump pump
4. APPLICATIONS;
A. Sump drainage
B. Floor drainage
C. Mill sumps
D. Carbon transfer
E. Magnetite mixing


Feature of SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

A. Vertical construction, less Installation Space.
B. Adjustable side plate and impeller.
C. Equiped with replaceable shaft protection sleeve.
D. Smooth and stable operation
E. Special materials or casting for specific liquid

 

FAQ

Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?

A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

 

 

SP High Pressure Processing Submersible Slurry Pump

Q:All water pump have diferent caracteristics, but it is imposible to overcome a certain hight...what is that hight and why?
The width of the pipe and the force of the pump both play an important rule. Given you have two pipes of different widths and the same pump, the thin pipe will take up water to a higher height. Plants for example have xylem (tiny water conducting tubes) that allow even the highest leaves to be watered.
Q:My mechanic doesn't get back in town until next week, and I'm struggling without my car. I don't really have any other options mechanic wise and I'm not dropping $1000 like meineke wants.How easy is it to follow the Haynes repair manuals or any other repair manuals? I have a 1996 dodge avenger and I need to replace my water pump. I know it's a time consuming task, but is it especially hard to replace it?
Try another repair shop. I had my water pump replaced for about $300 and that included the pump and labor and a belt ... Meineke is pricey. You can do better pricewise... Ask around... neighbors... people at work... My water pump was under something else that also had to be taken ou to get to it... not a job I'd want to tackle.
Q:I will be replacing my water pump tomorrow and my question is can I use copper spay gasket to spray on the water pump gasket?it this stuff good?99 ford explorer 4.0 ohv with 144k,mileshere is a pictures of the product.
Sure, why not? Usually, the metal area when most water pumps are bolted too are cleaned with a scraper of some kind and old gasket matter is removed. That surface should be cleaned, flat, and free of irregularity. Most mechanics, if they use any kind of stickum - like contact cement from a tube, or the costlier, but not-needed specialty sealers, is applied to the pump surface so the gasket stays put and not move when installing the bolts. The glue does not do any actual sealing, just the fiber gasket will. None needs to be applied to the engine side that you scraped clean. Make sense to you? It's probably a good idea to service the cooling system with a non-caustic flush cleaner before hand -since all the coolant will come out during the change. Then add a additive that neutralizes acids with the new anti-freeze.
Q:QDX is a submersible pump. What does "X" mean?
It should be small.There is no "downdraft" term;Do not say submersible pumps do not suck, what kind of pump is not on suction, or left and right suction
Q:i already removed all bolts including the fan except for the last bolt on the water pump which the serpentine belt rides on the bolt backs into that so i am trying to find out how to get the bolt from the serpentine belt pulley off do i have to pull the serpentine pully off and if so how there is no bolt or allen holding the serpentine pully onim just trying to replace the water pump
more than likely, the fan holds the pulley on. the pulley probably has corroded on to the pump. lightly tap on it with a hammer and should pop off. i have seen this alot on that style of pulley set up.
Q:I bought a salt water filter system for my inflatable pool(14' X 40deep) and filled it up with 80 pounds of salt as the directions call for. Unfortunately Intex did not design the pump correctly and it leaks.There is supposed to be some copper ion exchange with the water as it goes through the system. I returned the salt water system. Since salt is a natural bacterial fighter by itself, can I just add salt once in a while and keep the water salty and use the filter pump that came with the pool? You never see lakewater(which is a little salty) with algae in it unless it is stagnant. With a filter pump this would not happen as the water is being filtered frequently.
I don't think you or others really understand a salt water chlorination unit. The salt is added to the pool water through water circulation of the pool water the ION unit water passes past these two electrodes which in turn give off a chlorine gas which becomes the chlorine requirements for the pool On the ioniser is a dial that is set to a required setting to do with the volume of certain sized swimming pools. Even though one has this unit connected to their pool, they still have to add chlorine to their pool of the chlorine level isn't enough. This can be done in various methods, via a floating skimmer or have pellets put in hair lint pot or scattered over the pool surface, once dissolved in a bucket of warm water. Just by leaving the salt in the water as you suggest won't really do much other than help keep the water salty! This is my opinion I'll not get into a wage or wars over who is right who is wrong! Your trying to get others on your side, because you made the wrong choice purchased a salty pool chlorinator pump your dis- satisfied with your choice I am not going to agree or disagree with your statement other that to say your putting your families health at risk being a skin flint! So you think your doing the right thing, by putting your families health at risk for the sake of a few lousy dollars. Do it properly have a professional to come connect it all up for youin a proper manner!! Surely your families health means a lot more to you than risking a few lousy bucks on the proper unit! Cheers!!
Q:I have a 1997 ford ranger, during last week i noticed that the temperature started to go up, i noticed that the coolant recovery tank was empty so i added coolant and it fixed the problem, but a day later i noticed that the tank was empty again since it started to overheat again. This time i let the engine cool off and checked the radiator water levels and noticed it was dry with no water, so i added water and noticed that i was leaking from what it seems the water pump (im guessing its the water pump because is behind the engine fan, behind the belts, its hard to see), Does anyone have a possible explanation or suggestion of what i should do? Thank you i would really appreciate it.
You will need a new water pump if it is comming from where the fan bolts on. If its around the outside of it, it could just be a gasket but I doubt thats the case.
Q:are there any pumps that can save energy more? Environmental protection is necessary and the price is not high.
Water pump. ( Pond ) Sump pump. ( Flood prevention ) Auto water pump. ( Radiator ) What is the specific purpose of the pump.
Q:Recently my car overheated on my way to work, and so I decided to give it some much needed TLC.I have replaced all in the last week:Spark PlugsDistributor Cap + RotorTiming BeltRelated to the cooling system:Water PumpThermostatAnd the heater still blows hot air so I believe the heater core is fine. Unfortunately even after a couple of radiator flushes the car continues to overheat. I'm considering replacing the radiator because I think it might have too much debris inside to flow properly.I used ZEREX Radiator Super Cleaner but was only able to acheive an hour and a half of driving before my car would not be able to drive anymore. (Supposed to be 3 hours, car temperature began to escalate far beyond what I'm confortable with) I also used ZEREX Radiator Super Flush to no avail.Any suggestions?Car info:Toyota Camry DX 19913S-FE Engine 2.0L I4 1998cc244,500 miles
Check to make sure your radiator cooling fans are coming on. Also when you say your car overheats are you going by the gauge in the dash or is it actually bubbling over? Might be as simple as a new radiator cap (not allowing the pressure to build up) coolant temp sender or switch. (should be in the block), or your fans might not be coming on.
Q:I have a well water pump and the motor seems to just run but won't transfer water through the line, checked for leakage, etc but no signs. Even tried priming it but it does nothing. Any idea of what could be wrong or how to repair this problem?
If the captive air tank has failed you should still get some water flow. if you are not getting any flow and the pump is spinning then the pump may need to be replaced. There is also a pressure switch that may have failed but if that were the case you would have got flow unless the pump burned up. so, bottom line is this. 1) turn power off. let a tiny bit of air out of the Schroeder valve on the captive air tank. if water comes out, the tank is bad. make sure to fill the tank up to about 40psi. 2)turn power off. remove the cover of the pressure switch and clean with compressed air. move the switch back and forth. sand the contacts with emory cloth. 3) if the tank was good turn the power back on and make sure all the valves are open (even the ones you havent touched) if you are still not getting water you should probably call a plumber. most likely at this point you have a bad switch or tank and it has caused your pump to burn up. good luck

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