• Sewage Pump Submersible Pump Slurry Pump System 1
  • Sewage Pump Submersible Pump Slurry Pump System 2
  • Sewage Pump Submersible Pump Slurry Pump System 3
  • Sewage Pump Submersible Pump Slurry Pump System 4
Sewage Pump Submersible Pump Slurry Pump

Sewage Pump Submersible Pump Slurry Pump

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Sewage Pump Submersible Pump Slurry Pump


Application

This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.

It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.



Model Description


100WQ 50-30-5
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump

50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
5: Power (kW)

Operations Conditions


1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.


Picture

 Sewage Pump Submersible Pump Slurry Pump

Why choose us

 High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material

FAQ

1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
    1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on 
    2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)? 
    3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
     If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
  4) Contact us by under  business card information
2.OEM: Ok 
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts 

 



Q: I just noticed a slight leak from my water pump. About the size of my fist. I called one mechanic and was told the 2001 BMW Z3's water pump seals are tight and do not leak with the car is running (engine is hot) but once the car cools the water pump seals expand resulting in the small leak, that I shouldn't worry about it unless it leaks more, the engine over-heats, or dash light turns on. The BMW said I should have the water pump replaced but he may have just said that to make a repair sale. Anyone out there know the truth?
on that car the miles are critical for water pump replacement and maybe rad replacement including the t/stat and hoses//you are already over the time period/coolant system failure is imminent
Q: I think my water pump is going bad but figure id ask everyone to see what they thought. I leak coolant like the first 20 min i drive my truck and then it will seal itself up for the next day or two then start leaking again. It is getting leaked all over the belt and the fan is spraying it all around so you cant tell where exactly its coming from but i checked all the hoses and they are good and im pretty sure its not the radiator. Also, when it is leaking there is a loud whining noise when my trucks on and i heard that can be from the pump too.
LOOK okorder on internet! WHAT SIZE IS ENGEIN HERE! FOur, five, six, eight yidner from WHAT COMPANY! NOBODY can answer thsi question for you without MORE DETAILS! THANX!
Q: have a leak and want to replace the pumphave tools, any thing I should know before getting started?I intend to:drain from lower hose of radiatortake of fan ( using a 1 1/2 wrench method)do I need to remove shroud first???remove fan, remove serpentine belt then remove water pump , use a little brake cleaner to clean new pump gasket area and existing engine area, put a little gasket sealer on gasket and replace pump.put everything back on, and refill with prestone Green coolant.its what is in there now and it says dextrol only but is that necessary?, most people in the know I ask say it does not matter...hows that sound?
sounds like a plan. You probably need to remove the fan shroud, yes. Dont forget to reinstall the lower hose before filling up with coolant
Q: I have a water leak, and not from the radiator. It is on the side of the motor where the timing belt is. Could it be the water pump? or possibly freeze plugs? If so where are these?
Its located under the timing belt cover. Time to replace both the belt and water pump while you or your technician are in there. $500 at dealers typically.
Q: Hi I really need a USB water pump (small). I have found one in China but they need payment in a different currency so its proving difficult. I would much prefer a US/EUROPE seller. Cheers.PSgt; If I had to pay to get the power supply changed from wire to USB then I could if anyone knows who could do this.
The USB output has a 5V power supply. USB2 delivers up to 500mA and later versions may be 900mA. USB hubs start off with less than this (100mA) but change as they are initialised. Some dedicated USB charging ports supply up to 1.8A. There are some USB power cables that take the output from 2 ports in a sort of Y harness (first link for example). The result of all this is that only a very small pump would run from most USB ports. I did find 2 rated at 5W and 8W but the voltage was not shown. I suspect they were mains operation, meant for large water bottles. If they were 5V they would use 1A and 1.6A respectively, so only run from special USB charge points or double cables, and only in some cases anyway. I assume you want to run from a Laptop/Notebook battery for convenience. The point is that even if the USB port can supply the correct voltage and current the battery would be emptied very quickly. It is probably cheaper to get a suitable pump, then power it from a separate and more suitable rechargeable battery or mains adaptor (wall wart), whatever it takes, taking into account how long it should run with a single charge. This is about the battery voltage and the capacity in ampere hours - the number of hours it can supply a given current. D size rechargeable (Ni-MH) would run a 6V x 6W motor using 1A for about 6 hours. C size cells are half that, and AA cells about half again. It takes 4 cells to get 5V. Get them as a pack though or at least with a battery holder, as they cannot be soldered. Then you need a proper charger. Recent laptop/notebook batteries are lithium ion types, 10.8V and 4.8Ah, so deliver 1A @10.8V for 4h more or less. Other types worth considering are for cordless drills.
Q: I have a 2000 Dodge Stratus and recently had the coolant drained (not quot;flushedquot;, as the mechanic wanted to charge $125 extra for that). Prior to that time I never had a single coolant leak, but since then, I've had the coolant leak out slowly over about a 2 week period of normal stop go traffic. Now the mechanic is saying the water pump is leaking, and that's going to be another $600+ more to fix (over 5 hrs of labor), which I really don't have the money for right now.So two questions.. 1) what could've happened to cause the water pump to suddenly start leaking only after the coolant was drained, when it was fine before that? and 2) should I try using a quot;Radiator Stop Leakproduct? I know people say they can plug up the whole radiator, but if that were the case 100% of the time, you'd think these products would've been made illegal a long time ago.SO realistically what are the chances of it doing more harm than good? I still plan on getting the water pump replaced, it'll just have to be awhile.
Realistcally you have a 10 year old car, so your water pump has used up its life sorry. Stop leak products are usually a fine powdered aluminum/epoxy mix and NO they won't fix a water pump seal. Old stop leak products were actually better but used asbestos as a leak fix, so the government banned its use. My advice, is to shop around a bit for another price, as it does sound pretty steep. Sorry about your problem. Please remember anti freeze can go quickly, so don't risk an engine overheat at a bad time, carry 2 gallons of spare coolant
Q: hiI have very low pressure only on the hot water in my kitchen sink. Cold water is fine. Can anyone recommend a water pump/power shower i can use for boosting my hot water in the kitchen sink tap?Ive already tested the faucet by swapping the water supplies.thanks
Your hot and cold water should be at equal pressures. I suspect you have a restriction in your hot water supply, possibly the under the sink shut off or is semi closed or the hot water tank main shutoff is partially shut off…or the hot water system is clogged somewhere.
Q: Installation position of check valve for water pump
Check valves are normally installed at the pump's exit position!Check valve, also known as check valve, the specific installation needs to determine the direction of the pipeline!If the pipe in the installation position is vertical, you can choose the swing type and pipe type!If the installation position of the pipe is horizontal, you can choose the lifting type!Lift check valve opens and stops at the fastest speed!The swing check valve has the least resistance!The pipe type check valve is mostly in the form of clip type installation, which is suitable for the place where the installation distance is not enough!
Q: I was recently driving and noticed my heat gauge in the red. I have a 1992 Honda Accord 4 door LX. When I opened the hood what appears to be water was all over the place. Is this the water pump or something else? I want to fix it this weekend so I was hoping for a better understanding of what it might be. I am aware of the labor involved with the water pump and removing the timing belts to get to it. Thanks a bunch in advance!
it should,nt be water, it should be anti-freeze if it was leaking. if you meant anti-freeze the it don,t have to be the pump. it cold be a busted radiator hose, the radiator or 1 of the heater hoses leaking.
Q: My 1998 Dodge Dakota V6 heater only gets warm, I have replaced the thermostat. I have back flushed the heater core. The heater hose coming from near the thermostat gets hot, but the hose coming from the heater core going to the water pump only gets warm. The large hose coming from the thermostat is hot near the engine, but is only warm near the radiator. Is the water pump bad? If I open the radiator cap there is no signs of circulation. How do I check the water pump?Thanks,Gene
Have you checked the valve that shuts off the coolant when the heater is not required? It, or the pipes/ hoses to it, may be blocked, or the valve inoperative. I'd bet the coolant is not being allowed to circulate through the core by something. Backflushing doesn't guarantee the core isn't gunked up, either.

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords