Single Stage Double Sucton Pump

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Single Stage Double Sucton Pump

1.Introduction

DDL serial is horizontal volute double sction pump. This serial pump is an unique new product which is developed by our company by combining the advantages of the products of many other factory. DLL serial pump adopts inner arranged sealing and lubrication structure. The lubrication, flushing of seal system by closed circulatingwater are more direct, efficient. Linearity designed outline, the casing cove with streng structure make the pump to be on intrgrated mass, flexible stucture design makes pump more nicer. The casing inlet and outlet of DDL pump are both located under the casing. thus the rotor can betaken out without disassambling serial pipeline, so its maitenance is very convenient. Most part of the casing adopt double-passage design to reduce radial force. Casing, casing cover both adopt resin sand board moulding, this ensures a good appearance, accurate passage dimensions and high efficiency. Transmission is driven by motor through flexible coupling. Turn direction:clockwiserotation viewed from drivinged for clockwise rolate, and counter-clockwise viewed from drivinged for counter-clockwise rotate.

2.Applications

They are applicable to power station, water supply, municiple, contruction, fire fighting and mine, which are used in transporting clean water or liquids whose physical and chmical characteristic are similer to water

3. Operating conditions

Capacity range: 50~36330m³^_/h

Head range: up to 160 m

Medium temperature: < +105°c

Q: I think my water pump is going bad but figure id ask everyone to see what they thought. I leak coolant like the first 20 min i drive my truck and then it will seal itself up for the next day or two then start leaking again. It is getting leaked all over the belt and the fan is spraying it all around so you cant tell where exactly its coming from but i checked all the hoses and they are good and im pretty sure its not the radiator. Also, when it is leaking there is a loud whining noise when my trucks on and i heard that can be from the pump too.: LOOK okorder on internet! WHAT SIZE IS ENGEIN HERE! FOur, five, six, eight yidner from WHAT COMPANY! NOBODY can answer thsi question for you without MORE DETAILS! THANX!

Q: the impeller on my calpump pw1200 water pump will not turn. what is the problem? and how do you fix it: CLR soak. Remove the calcium and lime from the tap water use. I would use a 50/50 solution in the inlet and give it 30 min then plug it back in with the in and out in a bucket with the 50/50 mix until it runs like new.

Q: I installed a new water pump on a Cherokee straight-6 engine, the upper radiator hose is not heating up and the engine is starting to make a funny noise. The thermostat is new and was working fine before. The coolant reservoir is full and no more coolant will drain to radiator / engine. Anyone know why waterpump is not circulating coolant?: You okorder

Q: my nissan 1993 maxima SEthe AC is not cold at all this year it ran perfect the year beforecan the water pump pressure really affect the AC?how much should a new water pump cost for my car?: It okorder Email me through my profile page if you have any more questions. OK, do it yourself instructions... you will need: -at least 2 (12 oz) cans of R-134a refrigerant -hose with piercing stem that attaches to R-134a can and to your low-side service port (never connect to your hi-side service port) -1 can of Super Seal (comes with basic hose...not with psi gauge) -gloves, long sleeves, pants, (you want to keep covered just in case) Directions: 1. Locate low side service port. 2. Turn on vehicle and set a/c to max cool. 3. Attach hose to can of Super Seal..

Q: Is the pump head related to the water level of the entrance and outlet? If the water level of the inlet and outlet is on the same level, but higher than the height of the pump, does the pump lift need to be coupled with this height difference?: The head of centrifugal pump has nothing to do with the water level of the inlet and outlet. When the water pump installation position is lower than the pool water level, you can enter the pump by gravity, and when the pump installation position is higher than the water level of the pool, it depends on the pump suction process, the effect is good.

Q: I have taken off the fan, and radiator, and ect, and i'm down to this silver circle thing-the fan clutch i believe and black circualr piece that connects to the actual water pump. I need help getting the quot;fan clutchoff. I tried using a wrench and wrenching on this peice between that and the black piece, but i cant stop the black piece from moving. I tried this site called pelican or w.e, but they dont tell u how to do that. I'm stuck, plz help!: Usually there is a notch, slot, or hole in the housing into which you can insert a screw driver or punch to prevent it from turning and then you can use the wrench on the bolts.

Q: 1988 fleet wood prowler 22HJust bought it, first time camper owner. I need a battery and a water pump. I only want to buy one, but don't want an overpriced pump. Preferably one I could find at a chain store locally. Can anyone recommend a good one? Also, is there anything I should know before I take my camper to a rv hook up site? I have a pressure regulator that will twist on my spicket on the outside of my camper. Do I need any other kind of regulator, or hose, besides my pump before I go hook up?Can I hookup without a pump? The pipe is capped off where the pump would go. Thanks!: If you are connected to a campsite water supply you do not need a pump. The pump is only required to deliver water from the fresh water tank of your camper to the faucets and if equipped toilet of your camper when you are not connected to City water, ya I know I have probably been connected to an actual City water supply 4 days in over 10 years of trailer camping... but any campground water supply is referred to as a city supply in the trailer literature. The only accessory I recommend to have is a combination filter which will stop both sediment ( very common in campground water lines ) and secondary charcoal filter which will reduce both taste and chemical intrusions on your system / palate. Would I buy a basic system demand pump? Yes, but if the cost of the pump stands between your camping season and your camping plans for the season, cancel the pump and camp!

Q: the outboard runs fine and pumps water out with muffs on but when i put it in the water it doesn't pump any water at all. could it be that the impeller needs replacing? what do you think?thanks: No question about it. Replace the impeller. It's easy - the hard part is getting the fasteners off without breaking a stud. Be patient and use liquid wrench and give it an hour or more to work. Tap the nuts and then try them. A final resort would be careful (very careful) use of a propane torch to free the nuts. If not replaced, eventually blades will break off the impeller and foul the cooling system.... which can be a very expensive and difficult repair.....overheating is also very bad for the engine.... so fix the water pump.

Q: We have a 3-story (including ground floor) house. We have 2 bathrooms.We need to invest in a water pump to deliver water from ground floor to all floors + 2 reservoir tanks (one located on first floor, and the second tank located on the second floor).Which water pump do you recommend among these:(1) Valco 261PL or Valco 261PT(2) Davey HS50-05TI'd be MOST grateful if you could kindly advice me on any reliable brand that you know (apart the ones that I mentioned). We're basically looking for a very reliable pump up to around $700 (preferably less).BTW, according to you, what's the typical horsepower we should be looking for? Will 1hp suffice??Thank you very much!: I was looking for the similar answers.

Q: I'm looking to buy a used 2001 Protege. The car is nearing 75000mi, but the owner has not changed the timing belt or the water pump. I found out that it is recommended to change the timing belt at 60000mi, but couldn't find anything on the water pump. Realistically, when would I need to replace these, and any idea how much it would cost?Thanks!: That could have either the 1.6 liter or 2.0 liter engine. My information shows that if you have the 1.6 liter, at least you don't have to worry about bending valves against pistons if the belt breaks -- you'll just be stuck out on the road until you can get it towed and fixed. Not so with the 2.0 which is an interference engine. So if you DO have the 2.0, pay attention -- you don't want an expensive breakdown! You're on borrowed time at 75K. For both engines, Mazda recommends that you replace the timing belt every 60K miles. Gates (a major replacement supplier) seems to think these belts will go 105K. Since it's a factory belt, stick with 60K. As for the water pump, it's often one of those while you're already in there sort of things when you're doing a timing belt. 60K makes it a tougher call, especially with the better quality of water pump bearings and seals. If your interval were 80K ~ 100K as is true on some cars, I'd say go for it without blinking. As cheap as it'll be (it's really just the price of the pump), and it was my set of wheels, I'd do it anyway, even at 60K, if it needed to be pulled to do the belt.

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