• Single Stage Double Sucton Pump System 1
Single Stage Double Sucton Pump

Single Stage Double Sucton Pump

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
-

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Single Stage Double Sucton Pump

1.Introduction

DDL serial is horizontal volute double sction pump. This serial pump is an unique new product which is developed by our company by combining the advantages of the products of many other factory. DLL serial pump adopts inner arranged sealing and lubrication structure. The lubrication, flushing of seal system by closed circulatingwater are more direct, efficient. Linearity designed outline, the casing cove with streng structure make the pump to be on intrgrated mass, flexible stucture design makes pump more nicer. The casing inlet and outlet of DDL pump are both located under the casing. thus the rotor can betaken out without disassambling serial pipeline, so its maitenance is very convenient. Most part of the casing adopt double-passage design to reduce radial force. Casing, casing cover both adopt resin sand board moulding, this ensures a good appearance, accurate passage dimensions and high efficiency. Transmission is driven by motor through flexible coupling. Turn direction:clockwiserotation viewed from drivinged for clockwise rolate, and counter-clockwise viewed from drivinged for counter-clockwise rotate.

2.Applications

They are applicable to power station, water supply, municiple, contruction, fire fighting and mine, which are used in transporting clean water or liquids whose physical and chmical characteristic are similer to water

3. Operating conditions

Capacity range: 50~36330m3/h

Head range: up to 160 m

Medium temperature: < +105°c


Q: I have never had to deal with this and I am probably worrying about nothing but every time I run water, even for a second, the pump starts clicking on and off. Is it supposed to do it with every little thing? Every time the toilet flushes, or the water gets turned on to wash hands it goes off and keeps constantly going off until the water is shut off. Is this what it's supposed to do?
No there should be a pressure adjustment switch, low around 30 when it switches on and high around 50 when it turns off. Also check air pressure in tank
Q: My 2005 Lexus IS300 is close to 90K miles and I believe the timing belt/water pump should be replaced. I have priced this with several dealers and mechanics and at this time I can't afford close to $1000 to have this done. However, I see there are kits that can be purchased for about $400.Can a DIY'er with above average mechanical experience replace the belt nd pump relatively easily?
The fact that you've posed that question here is a pretty fair indicator that you will NOT have an easy time trying to do this work. And actually $1k is not a bad price for this type of repair. If you make a mistake while performing this work yourself the consequences could be very, very severe, i.e., completely blowing your engine. If I were you, I'd rely on public transportation until I could save the requisite $1k to have a shop do the repair.
Q: I have a pontiac grand am 1996 v6 with a 3.1L 3100 SFI engine. I have a coolant leak and I think it's coming from the water pump. When the car is cool and then turned on, about 4 to 9 minutes into warming up, coolant is hitting a belt and spraying out of the car's front end. When this is happening I see that there is coolant dripping off of the waterpump housing. The coolant started to spray everywhere about 15 seconds before the radiator fan kicked in. Why would this happen when first warming up only? Can a defective thermostat cause this to happen?
Stop guessing and have the cooling system pressure tested.
Q: i have a jetta and would like to know how difficult it would be to do. I know its a german car this is why i ask. thanks
Looks like you're covered with the mechanical aspect of your question! My input involves your comment on its a german car. I have several friends that are mechanics/techs. To a man, they say it doesnt matter what make (Japanese, American,European,Korean,etc.) the manufacturer assembles each for its ease of assembly at the factory. Ease of repair is a secondary consideration. All you have to do is look at their skinned knuckles as proof ! They all well deserve their paychecks!
Q: The single-phase water pump in the house is out of order. After opening the power supply, the motor can not start by itself. It is necessary to turn the shaft clockwise by hand. Then, what is the problem? How can I solve it? Thank you
The capacitor is broken. Change it.
Q: water pump
Flow? Head? suction pressure? Type of pump if that matters to you? You'll get better suggestions if you provide as much information as is relevant.
Q: 93 Cutless Sierra FWD
It's a major job involving the belt tensioner and quite a few other hard to get at parts as the water pump is buried against the side of the engine compartment. But if you want to try it borrow from the library or buy a Chilton's or any popular service manual and follow the directions (STEP BY STEP),good luck
Q: I just replaced my submersable well water pump, the wire that connects the pump, the d switch, and the water tank. Everything was installed correctly and with the help of a licensed plumber. While the D switch is closed (providing power to the pump) the pump will run for about 5 seconds then shut off for about one minute. It will continue this process until the system attains proper pressure and the D switch will open, shutting off power to the pump. The pump is brand new. Why, when power is being supplied does the pump cut on and off? We have tested the current at the well head and it shows that 230 is being supplied the whole time that the D switch is closed, which is correct.
I had one doing this similarly. The well was out of water or the pump may be too high in your case. The pump has a thermal cut out that is cutting out because it is protecting itself from over heating. once it cools a bit the thermal resets and it will pump again for a short time till it gets hot again. Perhaps this is your problem it was mine. I had to drill a new well. I assume you know there are 120 volt pumps out there be sure what the old one was. 220 probably would have cooked it by now anyway. Take the cap off and listen for the pump sound if it is out of the water you will be able to hear it if not to deep.
Q: Why should the pump fill the air before running? What's the reason why the water doesn't go up?
By rotating the water pump is thrown from the impeller center, resulting in pressure, the back of the water sucking over, this is the pump working principle, if air, air will not be left out without impeller, the flow rule, no pressure, so we can not draw water!
Q: Water pump maintenance what should be maintained?
Bearings, seals, impellers - removing dirt

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords