• Sewage Pumps High Efficiency Non-block WQ (QW)Series System 1
Sewage Pumps High Efficiency Non-block WQ (QW)Series

Sewage Pumps High Efficiency Non-block WQ (QW)Series

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Description:

QW type submersible nonclog sewage pump is made up of motor and pump, they are separated through oil isolation room and mechanical seal, it is short in length that motor and pump share the same axle (rotor), the structure is compact. Equipped with many kinds of protectors, it is running reliably, the function of its main parts are as follows:
 1. signal line: equipped with control box, protecting the pump fully, including leakage, phase reversal, short circuit, overheated, overload, etc
2. motor stator: its insulation is B grade or F grade.
3.water leakage probe. This component is installed in the oil room, if the mechanical seal was damaged, and water enters into the oil room, it will send out the signal to the control system so as to protect the pump.
4.Mechanical seal: Adopting in-series seal, the material is the wear-resisting carbonization tungsten, featuring being reliable, wear resisting, longer life, etc.
5.Impeller: have better handling capacity, can reduce the trouble of jamming and twisting of big fiber rubbish, etc.
6.Pump body: harmonize with impeller, ensure the pump has high efficiency.
7. seal rings: Installed at the mouth place of pump body, make mouth surround as impeller office wear and tear, can change the sealed ring because of operating, so as to ensure the pump runs with the best efficiency.

Condition:

Flow Rate Range: 8-2600m3/h
Head Range: 7-60m
Operation Temperature: -15℃-60℃
Matched Power: 0.75-280KW
Working Pressure: ≤1.6MPa
Flow-through Material: Cast Iron, Stainless Steel

Q: I think my water pump is going bad but figure id ask everyone to see what they thought. I leak coolant like the first 20 min i drive my truck and then it will seal itself up for the next day or two then start leaking again. It is getting leaked all over the belt and the fan is spraying it all around so you cant tell where exactly its coming from but i checked all the hoses and they are good and im pretty sure its not the radiator. Also, when it is leaking there is a loud whining noise when my trucks on and i heard that can be from the pump too.
LOOK okorder on internet! WHAT SIZE IS ENGEIN HERE! FOur, five, six, eight yidner from WHAT COMPANY! NOBODY can answer thsi question for you without MORE DETAILS! THANX!
Q: So my daughter's car is an 02 Accord manual with about 127k miles. It's making a squeaky noise which apparently is the belts. The dealer says they're too tight, but are in okay condition. They want to change the water pump and adjust the belts for $750. This seems a bit steep to me. Does the water pump need to be changed if it's working properly? How much should it cost to adjust the belts? I'm thinking she should find a more reasonable shop. What are your thoughts?
Have them do it, that's a fair price and required service. This is a complicated job because there's also a balance belt to do along with the timing belt, also a special tool required to lock things in place during the job. A water pump and new coolant is valid during this as it is so hard to get at otherwise. Do it there, the dealer is best for this or my shop but you're probably a million miles away. :-)
Q: Our water pump had a leak in one of the pipes which kept making us Los the prime. I've replace the piping so it no longer leaking but I can't get I to work. The pump runs but the water doesn't move-. The pressure says it is at 50 but nothing. Also its a sahllow well pump jut bought last sprig.Any ideas? Sorry for the bad grammar new to this tablet.
You would be wise to call a pump expert and have them examine it.
Q: I have a Honda 20003 bf15 d short shaft Ineed to change the water pump I have removed the 5 bolts that hold the lower unit it on but the shifter is steal hooked up how doI unhook that?
Please get the workshop manual. From an imperfect memory it should be in forward gear to expose a link - but I could be confusing it with other brands. This brand has a known issue with the water pump if ever run dry as both the impellor and the housing can be damaged instantly. The pump should always be replaced as a full assembly, housing, seals and impellor, as detritus can easily block water galleries and that requires extensive work to remediate. The thermostat should be checked and replaced at the same time. Worn and damaged impellor material can easily end up through the block, head, thermostat etc. and that must be checked for as well. The lower cylinder can be down on compression caused by local overheating due to this and mud, sand and corrosion reducing water flow. An engine that very much must be flushed and looked after after all use - that includes all the larger models with this brand. They are quite a good engine, but seem very heavy for the output to me - particularly compared to lifting a two stroke on and off....
Q: I went to have my car inspected for a leak at a friendly garage I know. They said I need a new water pump and in the mean time just keep the levels always checked and filled. Is it safe to drive for a while or can the pump totally fail and overheat the engine. As far as I know it's just leaking at this stage, the pulley and belts are fine.
I am a lead mechanic my comment would probably be like this any vehicle that is leaking fluids is not a safe reliable vehicle although in some cases such as a water pump it is ok too drive a little with it leaking you need too make sure that the water pump does not start making noise that would mean the bearings are going out if it where me and ive done it before i would drive little as possible until i could get it fixed but yes the garage is correct just be cautious
Q: i took off the water pump cover on my 1986 cr 250 and discovered that the impeller wont come off. ive tried turnig it the wrong way and the right way. can someone please tell me how to get it off.
1986 Cr 250
Q: When the pump is running with frequency conversion, the instantaneous power is greater than the power frequency operation, and the actual flow and lift are less than the power frequency. When running, the efficiency is very low. Why?
There is a running curve for the fan and water pump.Enough is enough
Q: My house uses a pump that draws well water. With a family of four, I had never had a problem running out of water, even through 4 morning showers. Recently however, I have started running low and sometimes even run dry of water, although it’s now just me and my wife living at home. The pump is only a couple of years old. A couple of neighbors also have wells and pumps, so I don’t believe the water shelf has run low. The holding tank is at least 15 years old and probably older. I don’t know if it has a bladder, but I think it does. It’s a Wel-Trol brand. I’ve checked the pressure with a tire gauge and it holds at 30 psi. Also, it seems the cut in and out switch has a mind of its own. It especially would continue to run, even though the pressure hit cut-off level. Any ideas or suggestions?Thanks
Could be the pressure switch (cut in and out switch). It is designed to start the pump at a certain low pressure and stop the pump at a desired high pressure. If it is allowing the pump to run past the high pressure limit, it may also not be kicking in the pump at the low pressure.
Q: House has bad mains pressure, so previous owner installed a quot;Holding Tankwhich stores water from the mains, before pumping it into the house for the internal tanks.However, after some recent plumbing work when the mains was turned off, it's running a little weird. The pump seems to be constantly running, although at a very low level, and some times when the taps/fawcets are opened, they seems to be nothing for up to 30 seconds (only air), and then the water rushes out. Same thing for toilet/WC cisterns..Any advice/pointers appreciated.CheersJM
Sounds like your tank is water logged, too much water and not enough air in the tank. If it is a bladder pressure tank, and the bladder gets a hole in it, it causes the same thing, and will need to be replaced.
Q: There is a 5.5KW before the pump head is now 25 meters and flow of 20 cubic meters, but not up to the requirements, I think this is like with a motor pump, lift more than 20 meters, the flow is about 40 cubic meters of water pump, please inform the models and parameters, thank you
With the motor pump are pump according to the actual need of work with you in the head, under the same water doubled, the motor is certainly not enough, you should this motor pump change together in order to meet the requirements of.

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