• Self-priming Magnetic Driven Pumps ZCQ Series System 1
Self-priming Magnetic Driven Pumps ZCQ Series

Self-priming Magnetic Driven Pumps ZCQ Series

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ZCQ type self-priming magnetic power drive pump is the new product tested and researched on the basis of CQ type magnetic power drive pump and absorbed the advanced international technique by the technicians of our company according to the requirement of our customers.

The pump not only has the character of CQ type magnetic power drive pump that is whole sealed, no leak and corrosion resistant, but also is self-priming, no need foot valve, the self-priming height is 4m. It can be widely used to petroleum, chemistry, pharmacy, electroplate, printing and dyeing, food, science research and other units. It is applicable to pump and transport the acid, alkaline liquid, oil, rare expensive liquid, poisonous liquid, volatile liquid and water circulation equipment, especially the pumping and transportation of the flammable, leaky and explosive liquid.

Q: I'm looking for a high pressure water pump ,preferably submersible, between 80-100 psi.
go you five and six show room only prospects of high pressure of toll pump or submersible menu check if you like buy no like no buy
Q: We usually wait 4 - 5 minutes for hot water in our master bath. I've been looking into ricirculation pump systems. This would have to be a retro-fit system since some of the lines run through concrete slab making adding a return loop on the line non-feasible. I have found some people comment on simply using a by-pass valve system without a pump (ie. Hot Water Lobster). We do have hard water which I've also read that can present a problem with pumps dieing quite quickly. While I'd like it, I don't need 1 second hot water, but I can't stand wasting gallons waiting for 4-5 minutes. A reasonable 15-30 second wait would be a huge improvement. Has anyone had reasonable success with the bypass valve without the pump or should I plan on getting the pump too? Thanks in advance!
A by-pass without a pump is going to do nothing. The pump moves the water from the heater to your sink. They do have the under counter heaters, but you need to have them plumbed for gas or have electrical run to them.
Q: Suppose the liquid temperature range for the water pump is -20 .. 90 °C. However it should be worked under liquid temperature upto 180 °C. For this, what has to to be done?
(edited) The physical size of the pumping arrangement was not described. I assume that the pump has all metallic components because of the high (194 F) 90degC design operating temperature. There may be some problem with an elastomeric bellows in a mechanical seal at the 180degC (356F) temperature. Other than that, there should be no problem with the temperatures as far as the pump is concerned. There may be a need for shaft cooling to protect the standard electric motor and possibly the flexible drive coupling arrangement. (edit) Depending on the physical size, rotating speed and drive arrangement, a special coupling set-up may be needed to accommodate any potentially wide swing in operating temperatures. From ambient to 180degC there will be about a 160C (288F) variation. The liquid will be either a salt or a glycol brine solution for freeze protection at the lower temperatures. (edit) That same concentration will provide some elevation of the boiling temperature and therefore a reduction of the pressure of the water solution needed to prevent boiling. ( 130 psig is the saturation pressure of plain water at that elevated temperature.) This can be found on the charts provided by the glycol suppliers for the various glycol and salt solution characteristics. To prevent cavitation you may need to pressurize the suction. If the proposed pressure of the system is already above the vapor pressure of the solution at that maximum temperature, you may already be OK. A motor with high temperature windings may be considered.
Q: I switched on the pump and smoke came out of it, i opened the pump n found it had some water probably caused the shock. How to repair it or is it dead?? ** its not a well pump just a normal one that pump the water to the tank from a small reserve
If you have to ask the question you don't have the skills to do it. You could see if there's anyone in your area who rebuilds motors and ask them to look at it, but if it smoked it's probably dead. If you want to try some simple things, take it apart, dry it out and put it back together and see if it works. If does, see if you can see where the water was leaking from and see if you can seal it back up.
Q: The pump assembly and the pump are not a thing
Water pump components: stator, rotor, bearing, shell, sealing system, under their own consideration
Q: I just had the water pump replaced, now less than a week later it is overheating again and sometimes blowing cold air. What does this sound like it would be?
Hi so when was the radiator cap last changed as the spring becomes weak over time and the engine appears to boil over.so a new radiator cap usually fixes this problem.
Q: I Need a water pump, no matter its fountain pump or high stream pump. But the things or you can say the parameters i required in that pump is, 2 inch minimum outlet from where the water come out, pressure 130 or above (in PSI) runs wid a 1 or 2 Horse Powered motor not more then 2HP. And the pressure calculation is flow of the water (130 Psi) , like while water is streaming out.Any one who can sugest some water pumps which can fulfill or near or above to my requirements. thanks alot sir for you kind time.
With 100M of 'head' you're going to need a constant displacement pump, and high pressure piping. I'd consider an intermediate lift station.
Q: ok im ready to install my new water pump but it has to gasket in the package i no where one goes it shapes to the water pump but i dont no if the other one is used, and also where does the o ring go in the big hole in the center does it have to be pushed down into a seem or something and do the to out side holes need o rings as well, and does the hermonic balancer seal need to b replaced
The water pump should come off the block with 4 bolts, the gasket goes between the body and rear plate. The o- ring fits onto the transfer tube that travels between the valley of the block. Add a little lube to it to make installing the pump and cover easier. The lower t belt gear should slide off easily, if not a bit of heat may help, careful not to break the oil pump (front end of block). The upper cam gears are best loosened slightly while the belt is still installed. If not try slipping the old belt over the gear and holding the outside of the gear/ the belt. Air tools may be required due to torque required.
Q: The garage told me my water pump was pumping quot;weaklyand needs to be replaced.
You got one of the money making shops. If you go for this they will give you a BIG bill and you will have the same water pump. Water pumps go bad when the mechanical seal fails and they leak. No other reason ---if it ain't leakin it ain't bad. The only way you could have a weak' pump would be a slipping belt and that would create an overheat problem. I don't know if you have a heating problem but if you ever do go to a RADIATOR SHOP not a rip off auto repair. Don't fall for the thermostat thing either--same scenario big bill--- same thermostat. Water pumps and thermostats don't cause overheat problems except in extremely rare situations.
Q: i'm changing the tyming belt the vehicle has done 120,000 km should i replace water pump as well
Water pumps get changed when they start leaking or the impeller breaks loose. Not normally changed in a preventive maintenance program.

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